DE102007015757A1 - Cosmetic preparation with hydrophobically modified polysaccharides and an ionic active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition containing a nonionic, water-soluble, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethycellulose (HEC) characterized by linking with at least one short-chain hydrophobic group having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably having 3 to 5 carbon atoms and at least one long-chain hydrophobic group having 9 to 24 carbon atoms and at least an ionic agent selected from creatine and folic acid.

Description

The The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation with hydrophobically modified polysaccharides and an ionic agent.

polymers Compounds, for example polyacrylates or polysaccharides are for many years as a "thickener" to increase the viscosity, especially of aqueous foods, cosmetic preparations, building materials, etc. used. A special Class of polymeric thickeners make the polysaccharides which, because of their mostly natural origin, both in consumption and non-culinary applications biologically well tolerated (i.e., non-toxic, biological degradable, etc.). Examples of such polysaccharides include compounds from the group of gums (for example Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, Pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum Gum), hyaluronic acid, chitin, chitosan, chondroitin sulphates, Starch and starch derivatives, as well as cellulose and Cellulose derivatives.

A special challenge is the thickening of cosmetic preparations Cosmetic preparations are sometimes highly complex mixtures (For example, aqueous gels or emulsions) from a variety of chemical compounds. A thickener for cosmetic Preparations must therefore be highly tolerated have a variety of substances. Despite the (apparently) big ones Selection of polymeric thickeners, it stands for the expert regularly to this day as a large Problem, a suitable for a cosmetic preparation To find thickening agents. In particular, the temperature stability, Storage stability, tolerance to other ingredients and the cosmetic performance are difficult for a person skilled in the art in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation. Should the preparation have a slightly viscous viscosity, must be relatively large according to the prior art Amounts of thickening agent are added to the preparation, which makes them unpleasantly greasy when applied to the skin Impression leaves, which for the user is unacceptable. Another problem area in the thickening of cosmetic Preparations provides the incorporation of salt-like compounds (electrolytes) their incorporation into thickened formulations regularly leads to precipitation and phase separations.

A Emulsion is a mixture of two or more immiscible liquids, one of which is in droplet form in the other. In the classical emulsion, the oil can be either in the Water dispersed (oil-in-water or o / w emulsion), or the water may be dispersed in the oil (water-in-oil, w / o or inverse emulsion). This terminology is important because the emulsion characteristically the properties of the external Phase, a key factor in the emulsion formulation and -construction. For example, an oil-in-water emulsion with Water are diluted or dried by evaporation with the other ingredients remaining as a film. The water-in-oil emulsion, on the other hand, can not be dried become.

emulsions are used in a variety of fields, such as textiles, leather and leather Metal Treatments, Food, Cosmetics, Pharmaceuticals and Paints, agrochemicals, polymerization, cleaning and Polishing and used in the extraction of ore and petroleum.

emulsions are inherently unstable systems and the risk of deterioration during storage is greater than at a non-emulsified product. The emulsion technology is based Although apparently on simple interface principles, is but highly complex, especially when dynamic and static conditions to be viewed as.

The Properties for emulsions, the most obvious are and are therefore most significant, are the following: easy thinnability, viscosity, color and stability. For a particular type of emulsifier These properties depend on (1) the properties of continuous phase, (2) the ratio of external to the internal phase, (3) the particle size of the Emulsion, (4) the ratio of the continuous phase to the particles (including ionic charges) and (5) the properties of the discontinuous phase. At a certain emulsion depends on the properties of which liquid forms the external phase, d. H. if she Emulsion is o / w or w / o. The resulting emulsion is carried through the emulsifier (type and amount), the ratio of ingredients and the order of addition of ingredients during of mixing.

The dispersibility (solubility) of the emulsion is determined by the continuous phase. Thus, if the continuous phase is water-soluble, the emulsion can be diluted with water. When around If the continuous phase is oil-soluble, the emulsion can be diluted with oil.

emulsions can be thin or thick liquids or fluids, pastes or gels and may have thixotropy or dilatancy show. The viscosity is influenced by (1) the characteristics of the external phase, including the additives, (2) the volume ratio of the two phases and (3) the particle size. Note that the Type of emulsion not as a major influence on the viscosity is considered despite the general belief that o / w emulsions thinner than w / o. This applies only insofar as the commonly used oils are more viscous than water. The viscosity of an emulsion is essentially the viscosity the external phase, as long as they account for more than half of the total volume. To the extent that the proportion of internal phase increases, the viscosity of the emulsion decreases to the point where the emulsion is no longer liquid is. If the volume of the internal phase is the volume of the external Phase exceeds the emulsion particles are densely crowded and the apparent viscosity is partially structural Viscosity.

The Addition of thickeners or gelling agents with the emulsifier are compatible, the viscosity of the continuous Increase phase. Numerous thickeners, such as carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), Methylcellulose (MC) and plant gums or clays can often at a low or without a change of the basic Emulsifier can be added. If the thickener or gelling agent of is a surfactant requires the overall balance of the emulsifier probably a new hiring. The emulsion viscosity can often by increasing the proportion of continuous Phase, usually water, be reduced. The addition of polar Solvents, such as alcohol or acetone, which the Reduce viscosity caused in the Usually a significant reduction in emulsion stability. Presumably, the emulsifier, since it is in the polar solvent is more soluble, extracted from the interface, which is weakened afterwards. A thickening or thinning The dispersed phase usually has little or no Effect on the total viscosity. For normally liquid o / w polymer emulsions can have viscosity differences by varying the nature of the adsorbed water structure around each Particles by means of a change of the surfactant or Electrolyte concentration can be obtained.

In front The present invention has existed in the industry for Personal care products Need a product containing cosmetic oil-in-water lotions or emulsify water-in-oil creams, without To require heat and which the emulsion passes through Prevent phase separation and creaming could stabilize.

One Another problem is the stable incorporation of water-soluble and ionic compounds, which by their polarity in the essentially a destabilizing effect on the emulsion or Have preparation. The most common are neutralized crosslinked polyacrylic acids used as thickeners. It It is known that the ionic compounds are incompatible with polyacrylic acid thickeners are. The ionic compounds break the emulsions together.

A Emulsion is stable as long as the particles of the internal phase are not coalesce. The stability of an emulsion depends from: (1) the particle size; (2) the difference in the density of the two phases; (3) the viscosity of the continuous Phase and the completed emulsion; (4) the charges on the particles; (5) nature, effectiveness and amount of emulsifier used; and (6) storage conditions, including temperature variation, Exercise and vibration or shaking and dilution or evaporation during storage or use. The stability of an emulsion is determined by almost all factors which are involved in their formulation and preparation. For formulas that contain fairly large amounts of emulsifier, the stability is predominantly a function of the type and the concentration of the emulsifier.

emulsifiers can be considered ionic or nonionic depending on their behavior classify. An ionic emulsifier is made of an organic lipophilic Group (L) and a hydrophilic group (H) constructed. The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is often used to characterize emulsifiers and related surfactant materials. The ionic types can be divided into anionic and cationic, depending on the Nature of the ion-active group. The lipophilic part of the molecule is usually considered the surfactant.

nonionic Emulsifiers are completely covalent and do not show any obvious tendency for ionization. You can therefore with other nonionic surfactants and also combined with either anionic or cationic agents become. The nonionic emulsifiers are also less susceptible to the action of electrolytes as the anionic surfactants. The solubility an emulsifier is of paramount importance the preparation of emulsifiable concentrates.

emulsifiers, which are surfactants, reduce the surface area and interfacial tensions and increase the tendency their solution to spread.

Oil-in-water emulsifier provide emulsions in which the continuous phase is hydrophilic is; therefore, such emulsions are generally dispersible in water and conduct electricity. The surfactants used to manufacture such emulsions usually have an HLB greater than 6.0 (preferably 7), wherein the hydrophilic portion their molecules outweighs. (Between HLB 5 and 7, many surfactants function as either w / o or o / w emulsifiers, depending on how they are used.)

Two important parameters of the emulsion are the droplet size and the long-term storage stability over a given Temperature range. Small droplets (i.e., less than 5 microns) are desired, so that emulsions a high degree of opacity and easier to stabilize are. The long-term storage stability correlates with rheological Parameters, such as yield stress and elasticity. Ultimately, formulated lotions need to be consumed by consumers have an acceptable feel.

A common approach for providing emulsification and stabilization to cosmetic oil-in-water lotions is via a three-dimensional surfactant network which forms upon heating waxy surfactant solutions to greater than 65 ° C. The network is an association of a large excess of surfactant molecules (ie, 5-10 wt%) and exhibits limited temperature stability (less than 40-45 ° C). To improve the stabilizing attributes of Tensidnetzwerks are typically physical gelling agents such as Carbopol ^® -vernetzte polyacrylates added. This combined procedure (excess surfactant and physical gel) achieves both emulsification and long term storage stability. The disadvantages of these cosmetic lotions are the heat required for emulsification and the high concentration of surfactant that can cause skin irritation. A material which can provide both room temperature emulsifying properties and stabilizing properties at a low usage level is desirable.

polymers Emulsifiers are hydrophilic polymers by the introduction an alkyl chain are hydrophobically modified. Their chemical structure leaves them as oil-in-water emulsifiers (and as Stabilizers) act. Hydrophobically modified crosslinked polyacrylic acid copolymers (eg Carbopol ETD 2020) are considered as primary emulsifiers used in the cosmetics industry. However, you can these are not in electrolyte because of their anionic character containing emulsions are formulated because electrolytes the Emulsion "break" and liquefy them.

A Another approach to overcoming the instability problem the oil-in-water emulsions is a big boost the content of emulsifier in these emulsions. However, it is known that emulsifiers, when used in large quantities, May have irritating effects on certain skin types. moreover the resulting creams are often compact and heavy or stiff.

A Stabilization of emulsions against flocculation and / or coalescence required the presence of an energy barrier between the droplets, to a close approach to prevent (whereby the van der Waals attraction is strong). Two general mechanisms can be applied to to create such a high (repulsive) energy barrier.

- Electrostatic stabilization

she based on the formation of an electric double layer. If two Droplets approach a separation distance, where the double layers begin to overlap, severe repulsion occurs, provided that the surface or the zeta potential is sufficiently high and the electrolyte concentration and valence of the ions is low.

- Steric stabilization

• – Ungünstiges Vermischen der Polymerschichten, wenn sich diese unter guten Lösemittelbedingungen befinden (osmotische Effekte); und
• – Verminderung der Konfigurationsentropie bei einer signifikanten Überlappung (entrope Effekte).

It is based on the adsorption of the surfactant or polymers at the oil / water interface with the hydrophobic (alkyl) group directed to (or dissolved in) the oil phase and the hydrophilic chain remaining in the aqueous phase. When two droplets approach each other at a separation distance such that the adsorbed layers begin to overlap, repulsion occurs as a result of two mechanisms:

• - Unfavorable mixing of the polymer layers when they are under good solvent conditions (osmotic effects); and
• - Reduction of configuration entropy with significant overlap (entropic effects).

The U.S. Patent No. 4,904,772 discloses the use of water-soluble cellulose ether having at least two hydrophobic groups having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, one of the hydrophobic groups having a carbon chain length longer by at least two carbon atoms than that of the other hydrophobic group. This patent discloses that this cellulose ether can be used in paints, as stabilizers in emulsion polymerization, as protective colloids in suspension polymerization, as thickening agents in cosmetics and shampoos, and as flocculants in mineral processing.

The U.S. Patent No. 6,166,078 discloses the use of cetyl-modified hydroxyethylcellulose (Polysurf 67) in stable gel compositions containing a dispersed oil and large amounts of electrolytes. The disadvantages of these electrolyte-containing emulsions are the limited short-term storage stability at elevated temperatures and the limited long-term storage stability of emulsions without the presence of electrolytes at elevated temperatures.

It Therefore, the object of the present invention, the disadvantages to eliminate the prior art, and a new, for cosmetic preparations with ionic agents more suitable To develop thickening agents.

Surprised The problem is solved by a cosmetic preparation containing ionic agents selected from creatine and Folic acid and a non-ionic, water-soluble, hydrophobically modified polysaccharide characterized by linkage having at least one short-chain hydrophobic group having 3 to 7, particularly preferably 3 to 5 carbon atoms and at least one long-chain hydrophobic group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms

These Invention also aims at a cosmetic on the skin Product for skin care and / or sunscreen, which the above emulsion and at least one active ingredient for body care includes or electrolytes contains.

It was surprisingly found to be a mixed hydrophobic Polysaccharide both as an emulsifier and as a stabilizer in Skin care products could act. This mixed hydrophobic polysaccharide functionally replaces a portion of the surfactant in cosmetic emulsions, creams and lotions at much lower levels Levels of use.

EMULSIONS

According to this Invention have emulsions with this mixed hydrophobic polysaccharide small droplets (i.e., less than 5 μm) and rheological properties that are not surprisingly change with the temperature. Thus, the emulsion stability becomes up to 50 ° C maintained. The little droplets are desired, so that emulsions have a high degree of opacity and easier to stabilize. The long-term storage stability correlates with rheological parameters, such as yield stress and the elasticity. This attribute of temperature stability is typical of structured surfactant or polymer solutions which as the temperature rises, they "melt" and cause loss of emulsion stability effect at elevated temperatures. That's what they'll find skin-leave cosmetic products of the present invention in a variety of applications use, where a structure over a wide temperature range is required. Still have formulated lotions ultimately a decent feel for consumers.

In accordance With this invention, emulsions can be oil-in-water or water-in-oil, under designation of continuous and discontinuous or internal phases. Generally, o / w emulsions conduct Electricity, are dilutable with water, feel More like water, dry (lose water) quickly, can are washed off (from the skin, etc.), are more corrosive and show the aqueous properties of the continuous phase. In contrast, w / o emulsions conduct poorly electricity, if anything, can with oil or solvents to be diluted feel more like oil on, are resistant to drying or resistant to Water loss, although easily a volatile solvent lose, are difficult to wash off, are less corrosive or corrosive and generally show depending on the oil phase the properties of the continuous oil phase.

The particle size of a liquid emulsion is related to the manufacturing process, the energy input, the viscosity difference between the phases and the type, and the amount of used Surfactant. With regard to the formation of a small particle size, emulsions can be classified into formulas having a low emulsifier content which require only a moderate amount of mechanical power. The energy supply is an important variable. The particle size generally decreases with a strong agitation, a small difference in viscosity between the two phases, and the use of a larger amount of the appropriate surfactant. In this invention, less surfactant is used or needed than usual because the mixed hydrophobic polysaccharide functions both as an emulsifier and as a stabilizer. Thus, fewer components are needed to form the emulsion with the result that less energy is needed to form the small particle size emulsion.

In an emulsion, the larger the particle, the greater the tendency to coalesce and to further increase in particle size. Thus, fine particles promote stable emulsions. In this Invention, the coalescence is mixed by the use of this hydrophobic gums, which has a protective colloid effect provides.

POLYSACCHARIDES

According to this Invention is the polysaccharide polymer for the backbone of the hydrophobically modified polymer, cellulose ethers. examples for Cellulose ethers are hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC).

cellulose ethers are widely used polysaccharides for applications, such as thickeners in personal care products. The size and amount of hydrophobe primarily determine water solubility and rheological properties of these polymers. For example, shows a Hydroxyethylcellulosederivat with a long alkyl chain hydrophobe (i.e., a chain length of 12 or more) is a very high one aqueous viscosity at a much lower Alkyl content as its shorter alkyl chain (i.e., less as 8 carbon atoms) containing counterparts. However, similar polymers with long alkyl chains water insoluble at a lower degree of alkyl substitution. This insolubility severely restricts their usefulness in situations where a higher degree of hydrophobicity at the best suited to the desired performance characteristics to achieve such as improved color development and Spray resistance in paint.

According to the present invention, the polysaccharide polymers have associative, hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. The term "associative", when applied to thickener means a water-soluble Polymer containing hydrophobic groups whose attraction to each other in the aqueous phase and to latex and pigment particles in the dispersed phase, both the paint thickened and the Rheology of the varnish regulated. The term "hydrophilic" means water-loving or attracted to water. The term "hydrophobic" means water repellent or rejected by water. Due to this deliver the different properties in the molecule The present invention provides a complex environment that balances the components of the molecule for the optimal Properties required. This compensation itself is suitable for numerous opportunities for change the properties.

According to this Invention contains the short-chain hydrophobic group 3 to 5 carbon atoms. Examples of such units are Propyl, butyl and pentyl radicals, the long-chain hydrophobic Group contains 8 to 24 carbon atoms. examples for such moieties are octyl, hexadecyl and decyldodecyl.

Two or more of the following performance properties simultaneously by regulating the molecules present in the molecule Amount of short-chain alkylhydrophobic, long-chain alkylhydrophobic and the hydroxyethyl modification method and the molecular weight the polymers can be achieved.

The Polymers of this invention can be prepared directly from cellulose become. First, chemical cotton becomes a mixture of one inert organic diluents and alkali metal hydroxide added. Thereafter, ethylene oxide or another substituent the resulting alkali cellulose added, and after the reaction The product is finished with nitric acid treated. This reaction mixture will be the alkyl glycidyl ethers and optionally adding a second addition of ethylene oxide. To When the reaction is complete, the product is neutralized, filtered, washed with aqueous inert diluents and dried.

In particular, the preferred procedure for preparing a polymer using alkyl bromides involves the alkylation of cellulose in a mixture of t-butyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, acetone, water and sodium hydroxide in a nitrogen atmosphere for a time sufficient to spread the alkali over the cellulose. Thereafter, ethylene oxide is added to the alkali cellulose slurry, followed by heating at 70 ° C for one hour. The resulting slurry is partially neutralized and additional ethylene oxide is added to the reaction mixture. Then, the resulting reaction mixture is heated at 90-95 ° C for 90 minutes. Alkali and alkyl bromides (two different alkyl bromides, one having 3-5 carbon atoms and the other having 8-24 carbon atoms) are added, followed by heating the reaction mixture at 115 ° C for 2 hours and neutralizing the reaction mixture. The reaction mixture is washed and then the resulting polymer is purified.

One another process for the preparation of the polymer of the present invention Invention is to start from a commercial intermediate. In short, the modifications can be made by slurrying a polymer, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, in an inert organic Diluents, such as a lower aliphatic alcohol, Ketone or hydrocarbon, and adding a solution of alkali metal hydroxide to the resulting slurry be carried out at low temperature. If the Ether thoroughly wetted by the alkali and swollen is, the alkyl glycidyl ether is added and the reaction is carried out under Stir and heat to completion. Residual alkali is then neutralized and the product is recovered washed with inert diluents and dried.

According to the present invention, the polysaccharide polymers for the backbone of the hydrophobically modified polymer weight average molecular weight (Mw) generally with a lower limit of 50 kDa, preferably 100 kDa, more preferably 300 kDa and most preferably 800 kDa. The upper limit of the molecular weight (Mw) is generally 3000 kDa, preferably 1500 kDa, stronger preferably 1200 kDa (1 kDa = 1000 Da = 1000 g / mol).

The Backbone has at least one short-chain hydrophobic Group consisting of C3-C7, preferably C3-C5, and stronger preferably constructed of C4.

The Backbone has at least one long-chain hydrophobic Group more preferred from C8-C24, preferably C14-C22 C14-C18 and most preferably C16 is constructed.

Of the Content of short-chain hydrophobic groups is at least 0.5 wt .-%, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0 wt .-%.

Of the Content of long-chain hydrophobic groups is at least 0.2 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 0.8 wt .-%.

preferred Polysaccharides are modified hydroxyethycelluloses (HEC), those containing from 3.0 to 4.0% by weight of butyl groups and from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight Palmitylgruppen are linked by ether bonds.

One has preferred polymer according to the invention a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 1000 kDa, wherein the backbone 3.36 wt .-% short-chain hydrophobic group which is n-butyl, and 0.65 wt% long-chain hydrophobic Group that is hexadecyl.

BODY CARE PRODUCTS

According to the present invention are products left on the skin as any formulation defined for protection or treatment or used to improve the appearance of the skin of a human become. The composition left on the skin usually shows 1) a vehicle system which is normally a thickening agent and solvent; and 2) an active ingredient.

According to the The present invention should use that employed in the vehicle system Solvents with the other components in the present Composition be compatible. examples for the solvents used in the present invention are water, water-lower alkanol mixtures and polyvalent ones Alcohol of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Preferred solvents are water, propylene glycol, water glycerol, Sorbitol-water and water-ethanol. The solvent (im Case of use) in the present invention is in Composition in a proportion of 0.1 to 99 wt .-% of the composition in front.

Surprisingly, the object is further achieved by an already described preparation characterized in that the polysaccharide has a molecular weight of 300 kDa to 3000 kDa. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention when ionic active substances are selected from creatine and folic acid. It is further preferred if it is an emulsion with droplet sizes smaller than 5 microns. It is particularly preferred if their viscosity in the temperature range from 10 to 50 ° C is substantially independent of temperature and differs in the specified temperature interval at most by 30%. It is very particularly preferred if the viscosity of the preparation is 100 to 20 000 mPas. It is exceptionally preferred if the preparation contains an O / W emulsifier.

The Inventive viscosity was with measured on a Haake ViscoTester 02 viscometer. This viscometer type consists of a rotating cylinder and a stationary measuring cup. about the rotational resistance force of the formulation determines the device the viscosity of the sample. Speed (rpm) = 62.5. viscosity after 30 s. determine. (Measuring temperature = RT)

invention Cosmetic preparations can come in different forms available. So they can z. B. a solution, a anhydrous preparation, emulsion or microemulsion of the type Water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment, a foam or also constitute an aerosol.

there it is inventively preferred if the cosmetic Preparation in the form of an emulsion and particularly preferred when the preparation is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

According to the invention preferred ionic agents are selected from creatine and folic acid.

Particularly according to the invention preferred preparations according to the invention are Process for preparation or uses characterized are that the water-soluble UV sunscreen selected are from the group of compounds phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, Potassium or its triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself, 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-Phenylendimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane Sulfonic acid) and its salts and the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, Potassium or triethanolammonium salt and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, especially the corresponding Na salt.

invention Emulsions are advantageous and contain z. Greases, oils, Waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as he usually does for such a type of Formulation is used.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl, Macadamia-, Avocado- oder Jojobaöl, Dialkylether wie z. B. Di-n-octylether sowie Dialkylcarbonate wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylcarbonat
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, further natural oils such. As castor oil, macadamia, avocado or jojoba oil, dialkyl ethers such. As di-n-octyl ether and dialkyl carbonates such as di-n-octyl carbonate
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously chosen from caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, mineral oil, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, cocoglycerides, octyldodecanol, butylenes Glycol dicaprylates / dicaprates, dicaprylyl ethers, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, Cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, squalane and C13-16 isoparaffin Advantageously, the oil phase also has a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely consist of such oils, although it is preferred except the silicone oil or silicone oils an additional content of other oil phase components to use.

Advantageous becomes cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) and dimethicone as silicone oil to be used according to the invention used. But other silicone oils are beneficial for the purposes of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), Phenyltrimethicones.

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_1,5 und/oder R₃SiO_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C_1-24-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1:1 bis 30:1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengensteile so gewählt werden, dass die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2) • im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht zyklisch ist und • im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan zyklisch ist.

The preparations according to the invention may furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• (A) siloxane elastomers containing the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _1.5 and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , wherein the individual radicals R are each independently hydrogen, C _1-24 alkyl (as for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range of 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
• (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil obtainable by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being so selected in that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or of the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is in the range from 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and is in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageous For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer (s) are present in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

According to the invention advantageous Siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powders are those with the INCI name dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.

According to the invention advantageous contains the preparation according to the invention one or more film makers. Filmbildner in the sense of the present Invention are substances of different composition, by the following characteristic are characterized: one dissolves a film former in water or other suitable solvents and then apply the solution on the skin, so it forms a film after the evaporation of the solvent which essentially has a protective function.

zu wählen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind.It is particularly advantageous to use the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).

to choose. Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 in the GAF Chemicals Cooperation.

Also advantageous are other polymeric film formers, such as Sodium polystryrenesulfonate, which is marketed under the trade name Flexan 130 at National Starch and Chemical Corp. available is, and / or polyisobutene, available from Rewo under Trade name Rewopal PIB1000. Other suitable polymers are z. As polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA Copolymers, polyglycols. Likewise advantageous is the use of Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimerdilinoleate (CAS 646054-62-8, INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate), available from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo can be purchased under the name Risocast DA-H or also PPG-3 Benzylethermyristat (CAS 403517-45-3), which under acquired the trade name Crodamol STS at the company Croda Chemicals and Dermacryl 79 (acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymer) from National Starch.

If appropriate, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoe ethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C number alcohols, e.g. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

invention Emulsions are advantageous and contain z. As mentioned fats, oils, Waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as he usually does for such a type of formulation is used.

To the One it is advantageous according to the invention, if the preparation is in the form of an O / W emulsion. In this case it is particularly preferred according to the invention, if the preparation chosen one or more O / W emulsifiers from the group of compounds glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, Ceteareth-20, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sodium stearoylglutamate and sodium cetearyl sulfate.

To the Others it is advantageous according to the invention, if the preparation is in the form of a W / O emulsion. In this case it is particularly preferred according to the invention, if the preparation chosen one or more W / O emulsifiers from the group of the compounds polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 Contains diisostearate.

gels according to the invention usually contain Low C-number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol and water.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic excipients, as they usually do be used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, Bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moist holding substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Especially can be used according to the invention drug combinations also with other antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be combined.

Such antioxidants in the context of the present invention are advantageously chosen from:
Peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (for example anserine), (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), EDTA, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof (in particular ubiquinone Q10) , Vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Na ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), plant polyphenols with a logP of 1-3, α-glycosylrutin, butylhydroxytoluene, creatine / creatinine, licocalcone, flavonoids / isoflavonoids (from soybean), grapeseed oil, urea, dicarboxylic acid.

Especially advantageous in the context of the present invention water-soluble antioxidants are used, such as Vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

preferred Antioxidants are also vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and its derivatives as well as vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives.

The Amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention other UV sunscreen filters are included, with the total amount of Filter substances z. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 is up to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations containing the hair or protect the skin from the full range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreen for hair serve.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention other UV sunscreen filters are included, with the total amount of Filter substances z. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 is up to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations containing the hair or protect the skin from the full range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreen for hair serve.

Advantageous are in particular preparations according to the invention, Process for preparation or uses characterized are that they have additional water-soluble ultraviolet light protection filters contain. These are chosen from the group of compounds Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, Potassium or its triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself, 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-Phenylendimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicylco- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane Sulfonic acid) and its salts and the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, Potassium or triethanolammonium salt and sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its Salts and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, in particular the corresponding Na salt.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoësäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoësäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoësäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• – Ester der 2-Cyano-3,3-Diphenylacrylsäure, bevorzugt Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate,
• - Ester of 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid, preferably ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate.

The List of said UVB filters used in combination with the invention Drug combinations can be used, of course not limiting.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters, which are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. For these substances they are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous UVA filter in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which has the following structure:

and Uvinul A Plus is available from BASF.

Also advantageous according to the invention is 2,4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine having the CAS no. 288254-16-0, which is available under the trade name Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone), which is available under the trade designation UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; and 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name Uvinul ^® T 150th

Favorable Broadband filter according to the present invention is also the 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxa nyl] propyl] - phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

Further advantageous UV filters are derived from the group of triazines, such. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (trade name Tinosorb S ^®) and the group of triazoles, such as. Example, the 2,2'-methylene-bis [6-2H-benzotriazol-2yl] -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (trade name Tinosorb ^® M).

It can use those used for the UVB combination Quantities are used.

It is also according to the invention if, in addition, inorganic pigments are contained. Such are metal oxides and / or other water-insoluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), Manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ).

Zinc oxide particles which are suitable according to the invention and predispersions of zinc oxide particles are obtainable from the following companies under the following commercial names: trade name coating Manufacturer Z-Cote HP1 2% Dimethicone BASF Z-Cote / BASF ZnO NDM 5% Dimethicone MR

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names: trade name coating Manufacturer MT-100TV Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation MT-100Z Aluminum hydroxide / stearic acid Tayca Corporation Eusolex T-2000 Alumina / Simethicone Merck KgaA Eusolex T-AVO silica Merck KgaA Titanium dioxide T-817 (iron / titanium mixed oxide) iron oxide Degussa Titanium Dioxide T805 (Uvinul TiO ₂ ) octyltrimethylsilane Degussa

Further can according to the invention advantageously organic UV filter pigments, in particular the particulate organic Sunscreen filters 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine be used advantageously.

Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention may also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Advantageous z. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: meta-delphphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP), 1-piperidinecarboxylic acid 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-methylpropyl ester, and especially 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester to be used (under the trade name insect repellent ^® 3535 from Fa. Merck available). the repellents may, both separately and in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which, when applied or spread on the surface of the skin, confer the property on cosmetic preparations Moisturizing the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) called) and / or to influence the hydration of the horny layer positively.

advantageous Humectant (moisturizer) in the context of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccharides Gum-1, glycine soy, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Moisturizers can also be beneficial as Anti-wrinkle agents to protect against skin changes, as they are z. B. occur during skin aging, can be used.

It is advantageous in the context of the present invention, when the inventive Prepare one or more humectants in a total concentration from 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably in a total concentration from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight the preparation contains.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which are e.g. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as, for example, tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenylsuccinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring action (such as, for example, US Pat. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9).

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations also aerosols with the commonly used Represent aids.

The Contain compositions of the invention optionally in cosmetics customary additives, for example Perfume, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobials, moisturizers Agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Effect substances, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

It is inventively preferred, the invention Add complexing agents to cosmetic preparations.

Of the or the complexing agents may be advantageous from the group the usual compounds are chosen, wherein preferably at least one substance selected from the group consisting of Tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and their anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their Anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions) and tetrasodium iminodisuccinate (IDS).

Of the or the complexing agents are advantageous according to the invention in cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred From 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2.0 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations included.

to Application, the cosmetic preparations according to the invention in the usual way for cosmetics on the skin applied in sufficient quantity.

The Preparations according to the invention find in particular in skin or facial creams, skin or facial lotions as well Day or night creams or lotions application.

Advantageous For the purposes of the present invention are preparations for care the skin: they can be the cosmetic sunscreen, furthermore to serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Example recipes for Cosmetic preparations according to the invention

Preferred C4 / C16-mixed hydrophobic hydroxyethylcellulose (polysaccharide skeleton, Mw = 1000 kDa) according to the invention: Content of butyl groups Content of palmityl groups Polymer 1 3.17 0.61 Polymer 2 3.36 0.65 Polymer 3 3.22 0.83

• ¹Dry Flo-PC, National Starch
• ²Cleargum CO 01, Roquette
• ³Tapioka Pure, National Starch

Emulsion I J K L M N O P Cetearyl Alkohol + PEG-40 Rizinusöl + Natrium Cetearyl Sulfat 2,5 3 Glyceryl Stearat SE 1 1,5 3,5 Stearinsäure 1,0 2,0 2,0 Trilaureth-4 Phosphate 0,5 Ceteareth-20 1,0 0,5 Glyceryl Stearat 3,5 Cetearylalkohol 0,5 0,5 Cetylalkohol 0,5 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer⁴ 0,3 0,5 Polymer 1 1,0 1,5 1,0 Polymer 2 0,5 1,2 2,0 Polymer 3 0,75 0,7 VP/Hexadecene Copolymer 1,0 0,5 Hydrierte Kokofettglyceride 1,0 Dicaprylylether 2 2 Isopropylpalmitat 2,0 C_12-15 Alkyl Benzoat 2 5 2 Butylenglycol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat 2,0 2 8,0 Octyldodekanol 2 3 3 5 Dicaprylylcarbonal 2 Myristyl Myristat 2,0 1 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid 2 Cyclomethicon 5 3 5 Dimethicon 3 2 Butylenglycol 5 3 Glycerin 5 10 5 8 15 7 5 20 Titandioxide + Alumina + simethicone 2 Titandioxide + Alumina + Silica + Sodium Polycrylate 0,5

• ⁴Pemulen TR-1, Noveon

Octocrylene 4 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin 1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethan 1 3 3 2 4 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamat 4 5 Octylsalicylat 3 5 Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonsäure 1 4 3 Aluminium Stärke Octenylsuccinat⁵ 2,0 Natrium Stärke Octenylsuccinat⁶ 1,5 1 4 Tapioka Stärke⁷ 3,0 Alkohol 3,0 4 3,0 4 Kreatinin 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,05 Kreativ 0,5 1,0 1,0 0,5 0,5 Taurin 1 0,5 Tocopherolacetat 0,3 Ubiquinone 0,05 0,05 Octadecendicarbonsäure 0,1 1,0 Ascorbinsäure 2 0,5 0,5 0,3 1,0 Retinolpalmitat 0,05 0,05 Folsäure 0,02 0,05 0,05 0,02 Na₂H₂EDTA 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. Farbstoffe, usw. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. Natriumhydroxid q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. Wasser Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0 Ad 100,0

• ⁵Dry Flo-PC, National Starch
• ⁶Cleargum CO 01, Roquette
• ⁷Tapioka Pure, National Starch

Example formulations: HMHEC + folic acid / creatine emulsion A B C D e F G H sorbitan 1.0 Polyglyceryl-3 methylglycose distearate 0.5 1.5 3.0 Sodium stearoylglutamate 0.5 0.2 PEG-40 stearate 0.5 0.8 2 Glyceryl stearate 2.0 2.6 2.5 cetearyl 1.5 3.0 stearyl 1 2.0 Polymer 1 1.2 0.5 1.5 Polymer 2 0.75 3.0 Polymer 3 1.0 0.8 0.5 Hydrogenated coco fatty glycerides 1.5 1 1 dicaprylyl 3 3 2 isopropyl palmitate 2 3 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 1 2 3 4 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 5 2 octyldodecanol 3 3 dicaprylyl 1 Myristyl myristate 1 2 1 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 3 Isohexadecan 2 Isodecyl Neopentanoate 2 Cydomethicon 4 2 dimethicone 2 2 butylene 5 2 glycerin 5 10 2 8th 7 15 5 20 Titanium Dioxide + Trimethoxycaprylylsilane 1 Octocrylene 5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 4 2 2 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4 3 octyl salicylate 5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2 2 3 Aluminum starch octenyl succinate ¹ 2 Sodium starch octenyl succinate ² 1.5 3 2 Tapioca starch ³ 1 3.0 3 alcohol 4 5 1 2.0 creatinine 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 Creative 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 taurine 1.0 1.0 tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ubiquinone 0.03 0.03 Octadecendicarbonsäure 1.0 0.1 ascorbic acid 2.0 Retinolpalmitat 0.2 folic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.05 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 Perfume, preservative qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Dyes, etc. qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs sodium hydroxide qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs water Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0

• ¹ Dry Flo PC, National Starch
• ² Cleargum CO 01, Roquette
• ³ Tapioca Pure, National Starch

emulsion I J K L M N O P Cetearyl Alcohol + PEG-40 Castor Oil + Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 2.5 3 Glyceryl stearate SE 1 1.5 3.5 stearic acid 1.0 2.0 2.0 Trilaureth-4 phosphates 0.5 Ceteareth-20 1.0 0.5 Glyceryl stearate 3.5 cetearyl 0.5 0.5 cetyl alcohol 0.5 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ⁴ 0.3 0.5 Polymer 1 1.0 1.5 1.0 Polymer 2 0.5 1.2 2.0 Polymer 3 0.75 0.7 VP / hexadecenes copolymer 1.0 0.5 Hydrogenated coco fatty glycerides 1.0 dicaprylyl 2 2 isopropyl palmitate 2.0 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 5 2 Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2.0 2 8.0 octyldodecanol 2 3 3 5 Dicaprylylcarbonal 2 Myristyl myristate 2.0 1 Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 2 cyclomethicone 5 3 5 dimethicone 3 2 butylene 5 3 glycerin 5 10 5 8th 15 7 5 20 Titanium dioxides + alumina + simethicone 2 Titanium Dioxide + Alumina + Silica + Sodium Polyacrylate 0.5

• ⁴ Pemulen TR-1, Noveon

Octocrylene 4 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1 3 3 2 4 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4 5 octyl salicylate 3 5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 4 3 Aluminum starch octenyl succinate ⁵ 2.0 Sodium starch octenyl succinate ⁶ 1.5 1 4 Tapioca starch ⁷ 3.0 alcohol 3.0 4 3.0 4 creatinine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.05 Creative 0.5 1.0 1.0 0.5 0.5 taurine 1 0.5 tocopherol 0.3 Ubiquinone 0.05 0.05 Octadecendicarbonsäure 0.1 1.0 ascorbic acid 2 0.5 0.5 0.3 1.0 Retinolpalmitat 0.05 0.05 folic acid 0.02 0.05 0.05 0.02 Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume, preservative qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Dyes, etc. qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs sodium hydroxide qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs water Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0 Ad 100.0

• ⁵ Dry Flo PC, National Starch
• ⁶ Cleargum CO 01, Roquette
• ⁷ Tapioca Pure, National Starch

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• US 4904772 [0025]
• US 6166078 [0026]

Claims (7)

Cosmetic preparation containing a nonionic, water-soluble, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethycellulose (HEC) characterized by linking to at least one short-chain hydrophobic group having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, especially preferably having 3 to 5 carbon atoms and at least one long-chain hydrophobic group having 9 to 24 carbon atoms and at least an ionic agent selected from creatine and folic acid. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized that the hydroxyethycellulose (HEC) with 3.0 to 4.0 wt .-% n-butyl groups and 0.5 to 0.8% by weight of palmityl groups are linked by ether linkages. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the polysaccharide prior to the modification a weight average molecular weight of 0.3 to 3 MDa, more preferably 0.8 to 1.2 MDa. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it is an emulsion with droplet sizes smaller than 5 μm. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that its viscosity in the temperature range from 10 to 50 ° C substantially independent of temperature is and in the specified temperature interval at most to 30% different. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that its viscosity is 100 to 20,000 mPas. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that it contains an O / W emulsifier.