EP1358929A2 - Method for the production of hair or skin cosmetic products using apparatus with microstructures - Google Patents

Abstract

Production of a hair or skin cosmetic product involves passing at least part of the composition through an apparatus with microstructured units.

Description

The invention relates to a method for technical Production of hair or skin cosmetic products, in particular of aqueous emulsions or suspensions, which at least contain a skin or hair cosmetic ingredient, using equipment with microstructure units.

Disperse preparations of the type of emulsions or suspensions play in the manufacture of hair and skin cosmetics an outstanding role. Typical products are, for example Hair treatments, hair dye creams, sunscreens, skin care Creams, pigmented products etc. The quality, the consistency, the effectiveness of the end products and the The economy of the production process is in to a large extent on the type of manufacture, in particular on the Depending on the type of homogenization used. Therefore the optimization of the manufacturing process is a special one Meaning too. An overview of modern processes for The production of semi-solid and liquid emulsions is the Article in SÖFW-Journal, 124th year, 5/98, pages 308 to 313 and the article in the SÖFW-Journal, 118th year, 5/92, Pages 287 to 296. The procedures can be regarding the temperature control in hot / hot, hot / cold and cold / cold processes can be distinguished. The standard procedure the hot / hot process is used to prepare the emulsion which heats the fat phase to approx. 75 ° C and also with the approx. 75 ° C hot water phase is combined. Subsequently takes a long time to remove the previously in shape excess energy supplied by heat. By default become homogenizers with fast rotating homogenizers Rotors used. Here, the ones to be dispersed Crush phases into tiny particles. That way conventionally produced cosmetic emulsions or suspensions are not always in their cosmetic properties satisfactory. They often have the disadvantage that the emulsified or suspended particles are too inconsistent or too large particle size and associated with it for many applications have too little effective surface area and also not optimally distributed in the emulsion or suspension are. Due to the difficult to control cooling of the in Usually, dispersions homogenized under heating can to inhomogeneities due to selective crystallization come from dispersed waxes. In addition, the high temperatures for temperature sensitive or volatile Ingredients may be disadvantageous. There is also a risk that when homogenizing atmospheric oxygen is stirred in what in the case of substances sensitive to oxidation, e.g. Oxidation dye precursors the coloring results for oxidation hair colors and affects product durability. Also be relatively high amounts of emulsifier to achieve the desired Viscosity needed. High amounts of emulsifier can have a negative effect Have an impact on the skin tolerance of cosmetics.

So there was the task of quality, consistency and Effectiveness of hair and skin cosmetic products, especially of multi-phase, dispersion-shaped products continue to improve and the above disadvantages too avoid or at least reduce.

The task is solved by a process for technical Production of hair or skin cosmetic products, the Products comprise a preparation which has at least one contains hair or skin cosmetic ingredient and wherein at least one process step is to pass the preparation through or at least part of the preparation by Equipment with microstructure units comprises. The amount of ingredient can depend on the type of cosmetic Ingredient and the intended effect between 0.05 and 50% by weight.

Under a technical production process according to the invention understood a process in which products are not from End users immediately before use but from produced by a commercial producer in large quantities become. In particular, one preparation is in a lot manufactured which is the one for a single application is required, and in particular sufficient is for filling more than one, i.e. one Variety of final packaging units. Typical production quantities are at least 5 kg / h, preferably at least 10 kg / h, particularly preferably at least 50 kg / h.

The devices with microstructure units are concerned in particular static micromixers or micro heat exchangers. The microstructure units are are fine structure bodies, their production for example is described in EP 0 391 895. You expose yourself several, stacked elements together, the elements being close together, channel-like Breakthroughs of high dimensional accuracy, dimensional accuracy and Have surface quality. The elements can be Trade metal foils with a thickness of 10 to 1000 µm. The average diameter of the channels is preferably a maximum 1000 microns, particularly preferably 10 to 1000 microns. Height and depth the channels are preferably smaller than 1000 µm, especially preferably less than 250 microns. The wall thickness between the channels and on the channel floor is preferably less than 100 microns, especially preferably less than 70 µm. Overall, the micromixer points preferably at least 1000 microchannels and consists of a stack of each with several channels Films. The apparatus is parallel in number operated micromixer, number and diameter of the microchannels and the connected pumps designed so that a total throughput of preferably at least 5 kg / h, at least 50 kg / h is particularly preferably ensured. However, the production method according to the invention is suitable also for the production of 100 kg / h up to 1000 kg / h and more, i.e. a daily production of 10 tons and more.

Suitable micromixers are described in EP 758 917, EP 857 080, EP 1 187 671 and DE 197 03 779. Suitable micro heat exchangers are described in EP 0 391 895 or in EP 1 046 867. Those described in the cited documents Micromixers and micro heat exchangers are part of the present invention. Suitable micromixers have several overlying and / or adjacent channels with one Diameter from 10 to 1000 microns, which in several Layers can be arranged one above the other. The canals are flowed through by different phases to be mixed and the mixing takes place when the phases exit from the channels. To increase the capacity of the invention Procedure can be the number of channels in the stacked Layers are increased or the number the layered layers can be increased or several micromixers can be modularly parallel operated together. It can also be two or several micromixers connected in series operate. It is particularly advantageous when doing so initially with a micromixer with larger channel diameters a coarser premix is generated and subsequent ones Micromixer increasingly smaller channel diameters exhibit.

In addition to thorough mixing, heating is at least one of the components to be mixed and / or cooling of the mixed end product is required Heating and / or cooling, preferably by passage by at least one micro heat exchanger. The micro heat exchanger consists of several on top of and / or next to each other arranged channels with diameters of preferably 10 up to 10000 µm. This creates spatially adjacent channels alternately from one of the phases to be mixed or from the mixed preparation on the one hand and a heat transfer medium flowed through on the other.

• eine erste Teilzusammensetzung und eine mit der ersten Teilzusammensetzung nicht mischbare zweite Teilzusammensetzung getrennt, d.h. je einem Teil der Mikrokanäle eines Mikromischers oder als grobe Vormischung gemeinsam einem Mikromischer zugeführt werden,
• die Phasen bei der Durchleitung durch den Mikromischer vermischt werden,
• wobei mindestens ein haar- oder hautkosmetischer Inhaltsstoff entweder in einer der Teilzusammensetzungen enthalten ist oder der vermischten Zubereitung zugesetzt wird, nachdem diese aus dem Mikromischer austritt.

Nach dem Austritt aus dem Mikromischer kann die homogenisierte Zusammensetzung direkt in die Endverpackungseinheiten abgefüllt werden. Falls die Vermischung unter Erwärmen erfolgte, wird die homogenisierte Zusammensetzung vor der Abfüllung abgekühlt, was vorzugsweise durch Durchleitung durch einen Mikrowärmetauscher erfolgt, wobei die abgeführte Wärme in den Herstellungsprozess zurückgeführt werden kann. Falls die Einbringung weiterer Inhaltsstoffe in die homogenisierte Zusammensetzung erforderlich ist, kann dies anschließend mittels eines herkömmlichen Rühr- oder Dispergierwerks oder durch den Einsatz weiterer Mikromischer erfolgen.One embodiment of the method according to the invention is a method for the technical production of a dispersion-like hair or skin cosmetic preparation, wherein

• a first sub-composition and a second sub-composition immiscible with the first sub-composition are separated, ie a part of the microchannels of a micromixer or as a rough premix are fed together to a micromixer,
• the phases are mixed as they pass through the micromixer,
• wherein at least one hair or skin cosmetic ingredient is either contained in one of the sub-compositions or is added to the mixed preparation after it emerges from the micromixer.

After exiting the micromixer, the homogenized composition can be filled directly into the final packaging units. If the mixing was carried out with heating, the homogenized composition is cooled before filling, which is preferably done by passing it through a micro heat exchanger, the heat removed being able to be returned to the production process. If it is necessary to introduce further ingredients into the homogenized composition, this can then be carried out using a conventional stirrer or disperser or by using additional micromixers.

At least one of the phases to be homogenized is liquid, the second and optionally further phases can be liquid, be solid or gaseous. In the method according to the invention the two phases to be mixed in a micromixer merged so that the components at the mixing zone are mixed at the outlet of the feed channels. In which hair or skin cosmetic ingredient can be a hair-care substance, a hair-coloring substance, one hair-setting fabric, a fabric with a sun protection effect Skin and / or hair, a fragrance, a skin care Substance, an anti-dandruff agent, a hair and / or skin cleansing agent or a preservative act. Typical amounts of active ingredient are 0.05 to 20, preferably 0.14 to 10% by weight.

The proportion of the phase to be homogenized in the finished one Emulsion or suspension depends on the requirements of the end product to be manufactured. The lipophilic phase can for hair treatments, for example from 2 to 10% by weight or for Creams such as Hair dye creams also amount to approx. 50% by weight. The homogenization can be carried out without an emulsifier. It can but also an emulsifier or a surfactant as a dispersing aid to be present. The dispersing aid can be used in amounts of 0.5 to 30% by weight of the finished composition are present. As Emulsifiers are non-ionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifiers are suitable. suitable Emulsifiers are, for example, those in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ", 7th edition, Volume 2 in the section "Surfactants", especially in the subsection "Surfactants - Emulsifying Agents" listed Emulsifiers. Nonionic emulsifiers are e.g. oxethylierte Fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid monound -diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or not hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxethylated Fatty acid ester. Cationic emulsifiers are e.g. long chain quaternary ammonium compounds like those among the CTFA designations "Quaternium" are known such as e.g. alkyltrimethylammonium or with dialkyldimethylammonium salts C8 to C22 alkyl groups. Anionic emulsifiers are e.g. Fatty alcohol sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl benzene sulfonates. Amphoteric emulsifiers are e.g. Betaines such as fatty acid amidoalkyl betaines and sulfobetaines and C8 to C22 alkyl betaines.

Also suitable as substances to be homogenized are substances which are usually used as opacifiers in cosmetic products, in particular those of the formula R ¹ -COO- (CHR ⁴ CHR ⁵ O) _n -COR ⁶ , where R ^{1 is} a C8-C22-alkyl group, R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} hydrogen or methyl and R ^{6 is} hydrogen or R ¹ and n is a number between 1 and 12, preferably 1, 2, 3 or 4. Glycol difatty acid esters are preferred. The method according to the invention is particularly suitable for producing an opacifying agent composition for cosmetic agents. Here, a concentrated alkyl ether sulfate, for example lauryl ether sulfate, is first dissolved in unheated, electrolyte-free water using a micromixer. A water-insoluble opacifier, for example an ethylene or polyethylene glycol difatty acid ester such as polyethylene glycol (3) distearate, is then homogenized in the liquid or molten state using a micromixer.

Another embodiment relates to the technical Production of cosmetic O / W or W / O emulsions, which in the conventional so-called hot / hot processes in the Be prepared in such a way that both the aqueous and the hydrophobic phase is heated and emulsified when hot become. In one embodiment according to the invention, a liquid aqueous phase with a liquid hydrophobic Phase mixed in a micromixer. The micromixer has channels with diameters from 10 to 1000 µm. At least one of the phases becomes the before mixing Heating supplied to a micro heat exchanger and / or the mixed preparation is used for cooling in a micro heat exchanger fed. The micro heat exchanger consists of several channels arranged one above the other and / or next to one another with diameters of preferably 10 to 10000 microns. spatial Adjacent channels of the micro heat exchanger alternate from one of the phases or from the preparation on the one hand and flowed through a heat transfer medium on the other. The The term "aqueous phase" includes water and mixtures of Water with water-soluble solvents such as lower Alcohols, e.g. Ethanol or isopropanol or polyols such as Ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerin.

It is particularly advantageous instead of the conventional one hot / hot process as the inventive method hot / cold or cold / cold emulsification. Here, an aqueous, liquid phase with a emulsified hydrophobic liquid phase, with either none of the phases (cold / cold emulsification) or only one of the phases (hot / cold emulsification) is heated. Under heating understood a temperature above room temperature (25 ° C), preferably greater than 40 ° C. The hydrophobic phase is included Room temperature, as is the case with a wax or a waxy substance is the case, this substance is in molten state fed to the micromixer. The watery Phase is in a hot / cold process according to the invention with a temperature less than or equal to room temperature fed to the micromixer.

Should the end product be a viscous composition act, the desired final viscosity results, especially when it comes to O / W emulsions, often through homogenization. The desired final viscosity can also (preferably at the end of the manufacturing process) by adding an electrolyte such as NaCl or another substance that has a thickening effect, such as celluloses or cellulose derivatives.

The particle diameter of the dispersed phase is preferred less than 1 µm, particularly preferably less than 0.2 µm. In Another embodiment is the channel dimensions the micro components of a micromixer as well as the flow and Pressure ratios chosen so that during emulsification a nanoemulsion is formed from the aqueous and hydrophobic phase, i.e. the particle size is 100 nm or less.

The process according to the invention can be carried out batchwise or continuously be performed. This is particularly preferred continuous practice, especially if one Heating of at least one component and cooling after Mixing is necessary and the cooling means Micro heat exchanger takes place. Another subject of Invention is therefore a continuous technical Production process for the production of a dispersion-shaped hair or skin cosmetic preparation, one heated preparation dispersed in a micromixer fed to a micro heat exchanger after dispersion and is cooled there and then the preparation is filled directly into portioned containers. Especially the continuous process is advantageous if the hydrophobic phase a meltable, solid at room temperature contains fat or wax, this before Mixing is melted in the molten state is dispersed with an aqueous phase and then the dispersion to a temperature using a micro heat exchanger below the melting point of the fat or wax substance cooled and bottled directly. If the hydrophobic Phase is completely in liquid form at room temperature, the dispersion can also be done completely without heating respectively.

The dispersion of an aqueous phase with a non miscible, hydrophobic phase can according to the invention Process with or without an emulsifier. A special The advantage of the procedure is that much less Emulsifier needs to be used to have a stable Emulsion or dispersion of a certain viscosity receive. This reduces the potential for irritation and improves skin tolerance. Becomes entirely on emulsifiers waived, metastable dispersions are formed compared to dispersions produced by conventional processes extended shelf life. Another subject of The invention is therefore a method for producing a dispersion-like hair or skin cosmetic preparation taking a hydrophobic phase in a micromixer without Emulsifier is mixed with an aqueous phase.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair and skin cosmetic preparations, which has at least one temperature sensitive Contain substance, the preparation or at least one phase containing the temperature sensitive substance or Partial preparation for heat supply or removal by a Micro heat exchanger is passed through. With the temperature sensitive For example, fabric to volatile Fabrics to look at temperatures above room temperature decomposing substances or substances that are above from room temperature with at least one of the others Ingredients are chemically reactive. Particularly advantageous is this in the manufacture of perfumed hair or Skin cosmetics using volatile perfume or Fragrances. It can occur when using equipment completely different with microstructure units, in particular achieved much more intensive fragrance effects of the end products become.

Suitable volatile substances are at room temperature (25 ° C) liquid and preferably have a boiling point in the Range from 30 to 250 ° C, particularly preferably from 60 to 220 ° C. Suitable are e.g. liquid hydrocarbons, liquid cyclic or linear silicones (dimethylpolysiloxanes) or mixtures of the substances mentioned. Suitable hydrocarbons are paraffins or isoparaffins with 5 to 14 carbon atoms, particularly preferably with 8 to 12 carbon atoms, in particular Pentane, hexane, dodecane or isododecane. suitable liquid, volatile silicones are cyclic dimethylsiloxanes with 3 to 8, preferably 4 to 6 Si atoms, in particular Cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane. Are still suitable Dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, e.g. Silicone FZ 3109 from Union Carbide, which is a dimethylsiloxane / methyloctylsiloxane Is cyclocopolymer. suitable volatile linear silicones have 2 to 9 Si atoms. Suitable are e.g. Hexamethyldisiloxane or alkyltrisiloxanes such as hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane or octylheptamethyltrisiloxane.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair wax products, the End product at room temperature (25 ° C) waxy consistency the product either has at least two different ones waxy agents or at least one waxy Active ingredient and at least one other, non-waxy Contains additive or active ingredient, the mixing of Ingredients in a heated, fluid state and the mixed, heated and fluid composition for heat dissipation is passed through a micro heat exchanger. The terms "wax", "waxy", "waxy" etc. relate in particular to the definition of waxes according to Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 4. Edition, volume 24, page 3. Accordingly, waxes are at 20 ° C kneadable, firm to brittle hard, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy, above 40 ° C melting without decomposition, already a little above hers Melting point relatively low viscosity, strongly temperature dependent in consistency and solubility and under light Print can be polished. The waxy or waxy The composition of the hair wax product has at 25 ° C Needle penetration number (unit of measurement 0.1 mm, test weight 100 g, Test duration 5 s, test temperature 25 ° C; according to DIN 51 579) by preferably greater than or equal to 10, particularly preferably greater than or equal to 20. They are waxes Substances in an amount of preferably 20 to 60% by weight, contain particularly preferably from 30 to 50% by weight. additionally can contain liquid, hydrophobic oils, preferably in an amount of 10 to 35% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 to 30% by weight. They can also be volatile Hydrophobic substances are contained in a lot from preferably 10 to 35% by weight, particularly preferably from 15 up to 30% by weight. Here are among volatile substances Understand substances that are applied to the hair evaporate. The boiling point of these substances is typically around 250 ° C or below.

In principle, any wax known in the prior art can be used as wax or wax-like substance in the hair wax product produced according to the invention. These include natural waxes, in particular animal and vegetable waxes such as beeswax, wool wax and derivatives thereof such as wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax; fossil waxes, in particular mineral waxes; synthetic waxes; semi-synthetic waxes; microcrystalline waxes; macrocrystalline waxes; Hydrocarbon waxes, in particular solid paraffins or petrolatum; oxygen functionalized hydrocarbon waxes; Vaseline; ozokerite; Montan wax; Fischer-Tropsch waxes; Polyolefin waxes, for example polybutene or polyethylene waxes; Fatty substances such as hardened fats, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, or fatty acid glycerides, the fatty substances mentioned preferably having at least 12 carbon atoms; Polyalkylene glycol waxes, especially polyethylene glycol waxes; Silicone waxes; and mono- or diesters of the formulas R ¹ - (C = O) OR ² , R ¹ - (C = O) OR ³ -O (C = O) R ¹ and R ² O (C = O) -R ³ - COOR ² , where R ^{1 is} a C8 to C22 alkyl group, R ^{2 is} a C3 to C22 alkyl group and R ^{3 is} a C2 to C16 alkylene group. The waxes or wax-like substances have a solidification point above 40 ° C., preferably above 55 ° C. The needle penetration number (0.1 mm, 100 g, 5 s, 25 ° C; according to DIN 51 579) is preferably in the range from 2 to 70, in particular from 3 to 40. At least one wax is preferably present which has a needle penetration number less than 40 , particularly preferably less than 20. Carnauba wax and a ceresin with a needle penetration number less than 20 and their mixture are particularly preferred.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair or skin detergent compositions, the compositions at least a detergent and optionally other additives contain. A preferred embodiment is that initially a highly concentrated alkyl ether sulfate and an aqueous phase is fed separately to a micromixer be, the alkyl ether sulfate in the passage through the Micromixer is dissolved in the aqueous phase and then added the remaining active ingredients and additives become. The term 'aqueous phase' includes water as well Mixtures of water with water-soluble solvents such as lower alcohols, e.g. Ethanol or isopropanol or polyols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, or butylene glycol Glycerin, but preferably water. The procedure can carried out batchwise or in a continuous variant become. For hair or skin cleanser compositions are shampoos, shower baths, Shower gels, bath preparations etc. in the manufacture of such Preparations are usually made from highly concentrated, pasty, 70% alkyl ether sulfates, the dilution at conventional manufacturing processes occupies a special position. The dilution is based on the viscosity behavior difficult. In the concentration range from 65 to 75% there is a minimum viscosity. In the concentration range a viscosity maximum of 30 to 60% is passed through and the alkyl ether sulfates are extremely highly viscous, rigid Gels before and only at concentrations below 30% (based on aqueous dilution) they are of low viscosity, easy to process form. Even when using dynamic high-performance mixers are formed on entry of concentrated alkyl ether sulfate in water or gel-like knots that are instant and complete Prevent solution and that, if at all, only afterwards solve slowly. This has an undesirable post-thickening of the finished products, i.e. the final Viscosity and consistency only arise after one certain storage time. Usual circumvention measures of the viscosity related difficulties are that the product for a long time in a circle using a homogenizer is carried out in order to achieve the most complete possible solution achieve, which is very time consuming. Besides, will usually an electrolyte such as sodium chloride to the solvent added. This causes in the concentration range in which alkyl ether sulfates are normally present as stiff gels (30-60%), a significant reduction in viscosity, a improved processability and faster solution. In the resulting dilute alkyl ether sulfate solutions However, sodium chloride is the opposite, namely one viscosity increasing effect. This has the disadvantage that for the viscous solutions produced in this way are increased Time required for the subsequent degassing is and that further processing, e.g. the subsequent introduction of additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances more difficult and time-consuming and thickening cannot be completely ruled out become.

Suitable alkyl ether sulfates have an alkyl group with 8 to 22, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 4. Especially Lauryl ether sulfates are preferred. Suitable counterions are Alkali or alkaline earth ions e.g. Sodium ions, magnesium ions or also ammonium ions. Suitable alkyl ether sulfates are e.g. which are described in the 'International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ', 7th edition, volume 2 in the section' Alkyl Ether Sulfates' listed surfactants. In a preferred variant the highly concentrated alkyl ether sulfate is dissolved without the addition of electrolytes, in particular without the addition of NaCl. Should the end product be viscous Act composition, so the desired final viscosity preferably at the end of the manufacturing process Adding an electrolyte such as NaCl or another, usual viscosity-increasing substance set. For this thickeners can be used, e.g. Guar gums, silicates, Methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose or carboxyvinyl polymers. Thickening can also be caused by cosurfactants respectively.

In the process according to the invention, the first step is highly concentrated Alkyl ether sulfate using a micromixer in preferably dissolved electrolyte-free water. Then the other active ingredients and additives. As active and Additives can be considered, for example: other washing-active ones anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, antidandruff agents, Hair and skin care substances such as quaternized Alkylamines, cationic polymers natural or synthetic origin, proteins and their derivatives, such as e.g. Collagen, keratin, silk protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates as well as silicone compounds. Furthermore can are used: perfume oils, dyes, opacifiers such as e.g. glycol distearate; hair conditioning agents such as synthetic or natural phospholipids or quaternary Derivatives of starch or cellulose; Solution brokers such as short chain alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol or glycols such as butylene or propylene glycol; amino acids such as. Histidine, glycine, alanine, threonine, arginine, Cysteine and its derivatives such as Fatty acid condensation products or quaternary products; other active ingredients such as Plant extracts, vitamins, allantoin, chitosan, preservatives Etc..

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of cosmetic sunscreens, wherein the preparation has at least one sunscreen active ingredient contains and the preparation or at least a partial preparation through an apparatus with microstructure units is passed through. Disperses are particularly preferred Sunscreens, which are either insoluble sunscreen agents contained in finely dispersed form or disperse Sunscreens that are made from an oil or lipid phase and an aqueous phase. This can be Trade O / W or W / O emulsions. The sunscreen active ingredient can be selected from UV light-absorbing inorganic Pigments, inorganic nanopigments and oil or water-soluble organic UVA, UVB or UVA / UVB filter substances. Suitable filter substances are e.g. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and their salts, cinnamic acid derivatives, Salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, Benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, menthyl anthranilate, Polymers with light protection and silicones with sun protection. The manufactured according to the invention Sunscreens are characterized by an improved Sun protection factor off.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of short hair compositions, consisting of a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic phase and containing at least one active ingredient selected from C10 to C30 fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants. Preferably it is a fatty alcohol dispersion, the Fatty alcohol is solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and in molten state using a micromixer in one aqueous phase is dispersed. The fatty alcohols can be found in an amount of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 8% by weight. suitable Fatty alcohols are primary alcohols, especially 1-alkanols with 6 to 26, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. In particular has the use of octanol, decanol, dodecanol or Lauric alcohol, tetradecanol or myristic alcohol, hexadecanol or cetyl alcohol, octadecanol or stearic alcohol, or Mixtures of these fatty alcohols have been found to be advantageous. A very preferred fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

The cationic surfactants are preferably contained in the hair treatment in an amount of 0.01 to 10, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight. Suitable cationic surfactants are surfactants which contain a quaternary ammonium group and can be represented by the general formula (I) N ⁽⁺⁾ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ X ^(-) where R1 to R4 independently of one another are aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups having 1 to 22 carbon atoms and X ^{- represents} an anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. In addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms, the aliphatic groups can also contain cross-links or other groups such as further amino groups. Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl- or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates as well as compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is particularly preferred. As a further component, the hair treatment may contain at least one co-emulsifying cationic polymer, for example vinylimidazolium methochloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers (polyquaternium-16), quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers (polyquaternium-11), cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Polyquaternium-10 or cationic guar derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or mixtures thereof.

The hair treatment is produced by melting at least one fatty alcohol with a suitable supply of heat, in particular between 60 ° C. and 100 ° C., preferably between 70 ° C. and 90 ° C., an emulsifier, which is preferably nonionic, in an amount of 0 , 5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 and 10.0% by weight, are added. The oil phase is dispersed with an aqueous phase containing the cationic surfactant using a micromixer. The cooling is preferably carried out by means of a micro heat exchanger. The finished hair treatment can be filled into the final sales packaging immediately. In one embodiment, it is a cream-shaped, highly viscous hair treatment, which is preferably rinsed out after use (Rinse product). The fatty alcohol content is preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. The viscosity is preferably from 1000 to 10,000, particularly preferably from 1500 to 8000 mPa s, measured as dynamic viscosity measurement with a HAAKE rotary viscometer VT550 at a temperature of 25 ° C with a test specimen according to DIN 53019 (SV-DIN) and a shear rate of 50 s ^-1 .

Another embodiment relates to the technical production of sprayable leave-in hair treatments. These consist of a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic phase, which are dispersed using a micromixer. It contains essentially the same ingredients as in the hair treatments mentioned above. The content of the hydrophobic phase is significantly reduced compared to cream-shaped hair rinses to be rinsed out, so that no viscous or liquid-crystalline structures are formed. The viscosity is significantly lower and the products can be sprayed with conventional spray devices, for example mechanically operated spray pumps. The fatty alcohol content in leave-in products is preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. The viscosity of leave-in products is preferably from 100 to 2000, particularly preferably from 300 to 1500 mPa s, measured as dynamic viscosity measurement with a HAAKE rotary viscometer VT550 at a temperature of 25 ° C with a test specimen according to DIN 53019 (SV-DIN) and a shear rate of 50 s ^-1 . The sprayability is significantly improved compared to conventionally produced spray cures.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair dyes, which at least a hair dye or at least one oxidation dye precursor included and the preparation or at least one partial preparation with an apparatus Microstructure units is passed through. With the hair coloring Fabrics can be hair coloring inorganic Pigments or around soluble, organic, directly on the hair act absorbent dyes.

Production according to the invention is particularly advantageous of hair coloring creams, especially for oxidation hair colors Containing oxidation-sensitive dye precursors. These hair dye creams are usually based on one waxy cream base. In conventional manufacturing processes a hydrophobic, heated to approx. 70 to 80 ° C, melted wax phase at a temperature of about 70 to 80 ° C in an aqueous, the dye precursors and optionally aqueous conventional additives Phase emulsified. Then it must be very slow and delayed be cooled with stirring to an uncontrolled Prevent crystallization of the wax (speck formation). With this relatively long cooling, it can by stirring atmospheric oxygen to undesirable oxidation reactions come. It can also cause thickening come what difficulties in filling the Ready product can prepare. Are micro heat exchangers according to the invention used to cool down, so is the risk of Speck formation and undesirable oxidation reactions clearly reduced. The coloring material obtained can be used immediately then be filled as a finished product. Through the Dispersion with a micromixer becomes essential finer distribution of the hydrophobic phase, an essential larger specific surface and thus a higher effectiveness of raw materials. This has the consequence that clearly fewer raw materials can be used and that Coloring result can be improved. The temperature of the aqueous phase can be chosen so that after emulsification the resulting melting temperature of the wax melt below the solidification point of the wax. The coloring cream can then immediately afterwards without further cooling be filled ready for use.

Preferred hair colorants have a (a) content Water, (b) at least one at room temperature (25 ° C) solid wax or fat-like substance, (c) at least one Surfactant and (d) at least one substantive hair dye or at least one oxidation dye precursor. The Total amount of dyes or dye precursors preferably about 0.01 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.2 to 7% by weight. Suitable direct dyes are e.g. Triphenylmethane dyes, aromatic nitro dyes, Azo dyes, quinone dyes, cationic or anionic dyes. Are suitable:

Nitro dyes (blue):

1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Blue No. 2), 1-Amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 4- [ethyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue No. 12), 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 11), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [methyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 10), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [ethyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue No. 9), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 2), 1-methylamino-4- [methyl- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue No. 6), 2 - ((4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino) -5-dimethylamino-benzoic acid (HC Blue No. 13), 1- (2-aminoethylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4- (di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitro-1-phenylamino-benzene.

Nitro dyes (red):

1-Amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitro-phenol, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene (CI76070), 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine (HC Red No. 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red No. 13), 1-amino-5-chloro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 3), 4 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino) -1- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - ((2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino) -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-1 - ((prop-2-en-1-yl) amino) benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-nitrophenyl) amino] phenol (HC Orange No. 1), 1 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange No. 2), 4- (2,3-dihydroxypropoxy) -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange No. 3), 1-amino-5-chloro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 10), 5-chloro-1,4- [di (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red No. 11), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitro-phenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] -benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, 2,5-diamino-6-nitropyridine, 6-amino-3 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (ethylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 3 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 3-Amino-6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 6- (ethylamino) -3 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitropyridine, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 7-amino-3,4-dihydro-6-nitro-2H-1,4-benzoxazine (HC Red No. 14).

Nitro dyes (yellow):

1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI76020), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 4), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 2), 2- (di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow No. 11), 3 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Yellow No.9), 1 - [(2-ureidoethyl) amino] -4-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethyl-benzene (HC Yellow No. 6), 1-chloro-2,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 10), 1-amino-4 - ((2-aminoethyl) amino) -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 12), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethyl-benzene (HC Yellow No. 13), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-benzonitrile (HC Yellow No. 14), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-benzamide (HC Yellow No. 15) 3 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -4-methyl-1-nitrobenzene, 4-chloro-3 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -1-nitrobenzene.

Quinone dyes:

1,4-di [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 1,4-di [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI61545, Disperse Blue 23), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI61505, Disperse Blue No. 3), 2 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Orange No. 5), 1-amino-4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI60710, Disperse Red 15), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 7-Beta-D-glucopyranosyl-9,10-dihydro-1-methyl-9,10-dioxo-3,5,6,8-tetrahydroxy-2-anthracenecarboxylic acid (CI75470, Natural Red 4), 1 - [(3-aminopropyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (HC Blue No. 8), 1 - [(3-aminopropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Red No. 8), 1,4-diamino-2-methoxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI62015, Disperse Red No. 11, Solvent Violet No. 26), 1,4-Dihydroxy-5,8-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI62500, Disperse Blue No. 7, Solvent Blue No. 69), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI61100, Disperse Violet No. 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone (CI61105, Disperse Violet No. 4, Solvent Violet No. 12), 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2,5-dihydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, N- (6 - ((3-chloro-4- (methylamino) phenyl) imino) -4-methyl-3-oxo-1,4-cyclohexadiene-1-yl) urea (HC Red No. 9), 2 - ((4- (Di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) phenyl) amino) -5 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1,4-dione (HC Green No. 1), 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI75500, Natural Brown No. 7), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI75480, Natural Orange No. 6), 1,2-dihydro-2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -3-hindol-3-one (CI73000), 4 - ((5 - ((2-Hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl) imino) -4,5-dihydro-5 - ((2-hydroxyethyl) imino) -1-methyl-1H-pyrazole sulphate (1: 1), hydrate (1: 1).

Basic dyes:

9- (dimethylamino) benzo [a] phenoxazin-7-ium chloride (CI51175; Basic Blue No. 6), Di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI42595; Basic Blue No. 7), Di- (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) - (4- (methylphenylamino) naphthalen-1-yl) carbenium chloride (CI42563; Basic Blue No. 8), 3,7-Di (dimethylamino) phenothiazin-5-ium chloride (CI52015 Basic Blue No. 9), Di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI44045; Basic Blue No. 26), 2 - [(4- (ethyl (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) phenyl) azo] -6-methoxy-3-methylbenzothiazolium methyl sulfate (CI11154; Basic Blue No. 41), 8-Amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) -naphthalenone chloride (CI56059; Basic Blue No. 99), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - [4- (methylamino) phenyl] carbenium chloride (CI42535; Basic Violet No. 1), Tri (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (CI42520; Basic Violet No. 2), tris [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] carbenium chloride (CI42555; Basic Violet No. 3), 2- [3,6- (diethylamino) dibenzopyranium-9-yl] benzoic acid chloride (CI45170; Basic Violet No. 10), di (4-aminophenyl) (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (CI42510 Basic Violet No. 14), 1,3-bis [(2,4-diamino-5-methylphenyl) azo] -3-methylbenzene (CI21010; Basic Brown No. 4), 1 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI12250; Basic Brown No. 16), 3 - [(4-Amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzolaminium chloride (CI112605, Basic Orange No. 69), 1 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride, 1 - [(4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol-chloride (CI12251; Basic Brown No. 17), 3,7-diamino-2,8-dimethyl-5-phenylphenazinium chloride (CI50240; Basic Red No. 2), 1,4-dimethyl-5 - [(4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,2,4-triazolium chloride (CI11055; Basic Red No. 22), 2-Hydroxy-1 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) naphthalene chloride (CI12245; Basic Red No. 76), 2- [2 - ((2,4-Dimethoxyphenyl) amino) ethenyl] -1,3,3-trimethyl-3H-indole-1-ium chloride (CI48055; Basic Yellow No. 11), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (CI12719; Basic Yellow No. 57), Di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] iminomethane hydrochloride (CI41000; Basic Yellow No. 2), bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] phenylcarbenium hydrogen sulfate (1: 1) (CI42040; Basic Green No. 1), Di (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) phenylmethanol (CI42000; Basic Green No. 4), 1- (2-morpholiniumpropylamino) -4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methyl sulfate, 1 - [(3- (dimethyl-propylaminium) propyl) amino] -4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone chloride.

Neutral azo dyes:

1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (CI11210, Disperse Red No. 17), 1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Disperse Black No. 9), 4- [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow No. 7), 2,6-diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 2 - ((4- (acetylamino) phenyl) azo) -4-methylphenol (CI11855; Disperse Yellow No. 3).

Acid dyes:

6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalinsulfonsäuredinatriumsalz (CI15985; Food Yellow No. 3; FD&C Yellow No. 6), 2,4-Dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (CI10316; Acid Yellow No. 1; Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1,3-dion-2-yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (Mixture of monound Disulfonic acid) (CI47005; D&C Yellow No. 10; Food Yellow No. 13; Acid Yellow No. 3), 5-Hydroxy-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid, trisodium salt (CI19140; Food Yellow No. 4; Acid Yellow No. 23), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -6-hydroxy-3H-xanthen-3-one (CI45350; Acid Yellow No. 73; D&C Yellow No. 8), 4 - ((4-Amino-3-sulfophenyl) azo) benzenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI13015, Acid Yellow No. 9), 5 - [(2,4-Dinitrophenyl) amino] -2-phenylaminobenzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (CI10385; Acid Orange No. 3), 4 - [(2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl) azo] benzenesulfonic acid monosodium salt (CI14270; Acid Orange No. 6), 4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] benzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (CI15510; Acid Orange No. 7), 4 - [(2,4-Dihydroxy-3 - [(2,4-dimethylphenyl) azo] phenyl) azo] benzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (CI20170; Acid Orange No. 24), 4-Hydroxy-3 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI14720; Acid Red No. 14), 4-Hydroxy-3 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid monosodium salt (CI14710; Acid Red No. 4), 6-Hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -2,4-naphthalene disulfonic acid trisodium salt (CI16255; Ponceau 4R; Acid Red No. 18), 3-Hydroxy-4 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid trisodium salt (CI16185; Acid Red No. 27), 8-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (phenylazo) -3,6-naphthalene disulfonic acid disodium salt (CI17200; Acid Red No. 33), 5- (acetylamino) -4-hydroxy-3 - [(2-methylphenyl) azo] -2,7-naphthalene disulfonic acid disodium salt (CI18065; Acid Red No. 35), 2- (3-Hydroxy-2,4,5,7-tetraiododibenzopyran-6-one-9-yl) benzoic acid disodium salt (CI45430; Acid Red No. 51), N- [6- (diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] -N-ethylethanammonium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI45100; Acid Red No. 52), 8 - [(4- (phenylazo) phenyl) azo] -7-naphthol-1,3-disulfonic acid disodium salt (CI27290; Acid Red No. 73), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '- [9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (CI45380 Acid Red No. 87), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachlor-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '[9H] xanthene] - 3-one disodium salt (CI45410; Acid Red No. 92), 3 ', 6'-dihydroxy-4', 5'-diiodospiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '(9H) -xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (CI45425; Acid Red No. 95), 2-Hydroxy-3 - ((2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo) -5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid monosodium salt (CI15685; Acid Red No. 184), (2-sulfophenyl) di [4- (ethyl ((4-sulfophenyl) methyl) amino) phenyl] carbenium disodium salt Betaine (CI42090; Acid Blue No. 9; FD&C Blue No. 1), 1,4-bis [(2-sulfo-4-methylphenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone disodium salt (CI 61570; Acid Green No. 25), Bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - (3,7-disulfo-2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) carbenium interior Salt monosodium salt (CI44090; Food Green No. 4; Acid Green No. 50), bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] (2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenium interior salt, sodium salt (2: 1) (CI42045; Food Blue No. 3; Acid Blue No. 1), Bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] (5-hydroxy-2,4-disulfophenyl) -carbenium inner- salt, calcium salt (2: 1) (CI42051; acid Blue No. 3), 1-Amino-4- (cyclohexylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid sodium salt (CI62045; Acid Blue No. 62), 1-amino-4- (phenylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid (CI62055; Acid Blue No. 25), 2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-5-sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -2,3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole- 5-sulfonsäuredinatriumsalz (CI73015; Acid Blue No. 74), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -3 - [(2-methylphenyl) amino] -6 - [(2-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) amino] xanthylium interior Salt, monosodium salt (CI45190; Acid Violet No. 9), 1-Hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone sodium salt (CI60730; D&C Violet No. 2; Acid Violet No. 43), bis [3-nitro-4 - [(4-phenylamino) -3-sulfophenylamino] phenyl] sulfone (CI10410; Acid Brown No. 13), 5-Amino-4-hydroxy-6 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] -3- (phenylazo) -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI20470; Acid Black No. 1), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -7-nitro-1-naphthalene-sulfonic acid-chromium complex (3: 2) (CI15711; Acid Black No. 52), 3 - [(2,4-dimethyl-5-sulfophenyl) azo] -4-hydroxy-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI14700; Food Red No. 1; Ponceau SX; FD&C Red No. 4), 4- (Acetylamino) -5-hydroxy-6 - [(7-sulfo-4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] naphth-1-yl) azo] -1,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid tetrasodium salt (CI28440; Food Black No. 1), 3-hydroxy-4- (3-methyl-5-oxo-1-phenyl-4,5-dihydro-1H-pyrazol-4-ylazo) -naphthalene-1-sulfonic acid- sodium salt, Chromium complex (Acid Red No. 195).

Other dyes known and customary for hair dyeing can be contained in the colorant according to the invention, are described in E. Sagarin, "Cosmetics, Science and Technology ", Interscience Publishers Inc., New York (1957), Pages 503 ff. And H. Janistyn, "Handbook of Cosmetics und Riechstoffe ", Volume 3 (1973), pages 388 ff. and K. Schrader "Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics", 2. Edition (1989), pages 782-815.

Suitable hair coloring pigments are in the application medium practically insoluble colorants and can be inorganic or be organic. Also inorganic-organic mixed pigments are possible. The pigments are preferably not about nanopigments. The preferred particle size is 1 to 200 μm, in particular 3 to 150 μm, particularly preferred 10 to 100 µm. Preferred are inorganic pigments. The inorganic pigments can be of natural origin, for example made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, fired terra di siena or graphite. Both Pigments can be white pigments such as Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to create black pigments such as Black iron oxide, Colored pigments such as Ultramarine or iron oxide red to Luster pigments, metallic effect pigments, pearlescent pigments as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, where preferably at least one pigment is a colored, is non-white pigment. Metal oxides are suitable, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing Silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, Metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates as well as the metals itself (bronze pigments). Titanium dioxide is particularly suitable (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow Iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510), Carmine (Cochineal). Are particularly preferred Pigments based on mica or mica which have a Metal oxide or a metal oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or Bismuth oxychloride and optionally other colorants Substances such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine etc. are coated and the color by variation the layer thickness is determined. Such pigments are for example under the trade name Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Germany expelled. Organic pigments are e.g. the natural pigments sepia, gumbo, charcoal, Kasseler Braun, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments. Synthetic organic pigments are e.g. azo pigments, Anthraquinones, indigoids, dioxazin-, quinacridone, Phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, Metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of cosmetic skin creams, being the product consists of an aqueous phase and a hydrophobic one Phase built emulsion is at least one contains skin care ingredient and the dispersion of Phases are carried out in a micromixer. The skin cream contains usually water, a fat or wax substance, a Emulsifier and a skin-care agent. With the active ingredient can be cosmetic oils, emollients, vitamins, Vitamin derivatives, provitamins, essential fatty acids, Sphingolipids, phospholipids, ceramides, betaine, panthenol etc. act. Skin creams produced according to the invention are characterized by an improved feeling on the skin, a improved distribution of active ingredients, an improved Absorption of the active ingredients on the skin and a reduction the required amount.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair or skin cosmetics Preparations containing at least one powder Contain solid in finely dispersed form, the Dispersion of the solid takes place in a micromixer. Suitable solids are e.g. Pigments, pearlescent agents, Talc, mica, kaolin, zinc oxides, titanium oxides, precipitated Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, Silica, glass balls, ceramic balls, powder Polymers etc.

Another object of the invention is a method for technical production of hair or skin cosmetics Preparations containing at least one preservative included, with the distribution of the preservative in a micromixer. The preparations need less preservatives than conventionally made Preparations and have an improved skin tolerance.

The advantages of hair and Skin cosmetic products consist of an optimal particle size distribution homogenized particles, one optimal distribution of the disperse phase in the external Phase, a high effective surface, a reduced Need for the amount of emulsifier and therefore an improved Skin tolerance, improved effectiveness cosmetic active ingredients and auxiliaries, an improved Crystallization behavior and improved rheological Characteristics. Hair treatment compositions produced according to the invention have the advantage of being more uniform Allowing active substances to deposit on the hair as conventionally made products. The narrower particle size distribution improves the pulling on the hair.

Examples

In the following recipe examples, the components by means of a micromixer according to example 1 of EP 0 861 121 B1 mixed.

Example 1: Hair conditioner

4.3 g Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® O) 0.4 g cetyl lactate 0.5 g vaseline 1.2 g cetyltrimethylammonium 0.45 g polyvinylpyrrolidone ad 100 g water

Example 2: Hair treatment

5.5 g Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® O) 1.2 g vaseline 1.0 g Paraffinum Liquidum 0.5 g Dimethylpolysiloxane (Belsil® DM 500) 0.3 g lanolin 0.2 g lanolin 1.2 g cetyltrimethylammonium 0.3 g citric acid 0.4 g Perfume ad 100 g water

Example 3: Cream-shaped hair treatment

6 g cetearyl 1.7 g glycerin 1 g cetyltrimethylammonium 1 g vegetable oil 0.5 g panthenol 0.5 g Silicone oil (dimethylpolysiloxane) 0.2 g Perfume Ad 100 g water

Example 4: Leave-on spray hair treatment

0.5 g cetyl alcohol 0.3 g glycerin 0.25 g cetyltrimethylammonium 0.2 g Styrene / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer 0.2 g panthenol 0.2 g Perfume 4.8 g ethanol Ad 100 g water

Example 5: Oxidative hair dye cream

17 g cetearyl 1.9 g sodium lauryl sulfate 1.4 g Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2.1 g lanolin 6.1 g glyceryl stearate 0.4 g Sodium cocoyl isoethionate 1.4 g ammonia 6 g isopropanol 0.6 g sodium 0.3 g EDTA 0.06 g p-aminophenol hydrochloride 0.65 g p-Toluylenediamine 0.26 g resorcinol 0.3 g perfume oil ad 100 g water

Example 6 : Hair Dye

4.5 g cetearyl 1.7 g cetyltrimethylammonium 4.2 g isopropanol 0.0025 g Basic violet 14 (C.I. No. 42510) ad 100 g water

Example 7: Hair treatment agent with volatile substance

10 g propylene glycol 2 g Cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® O) 2 g Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 345 Fluid) 0.4 g Perfume 0.2 g PHB Methylester 0.1 g PHB propyl ad 100 g water

The 80 ° C hot water phase with the propylene glycol and both PHB esters are melted with the one at 80 ° C Cetearyl alcohol mixed in a micromixer. Between micromixers and micro heat exchanger becomes the perfume as well volatile Cyclomethicone metered in and then immediately cooled to room temperature in the heat exchanger.

Example 8: Hair wax

10 g Triceteareth-4 phosphates 6 g PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate 18 g Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 0.5 g Perfume 0.5 g preservative ad 100 g water

The first three positions are melted at 80 ° C and with the also 80 ° C hot water, which is the preservative contains, mixed in the micromixer. Between Micromixer and micro heat exchanger turns the perfume into one The resulting microemulsion is metered in the micro heat exchanger is then immediately cooled to 50 ° C and directly into the final Bottled consumer packaging.

Example 9: Shampoo

30 g Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 8 g cocamidopropyl 3 g glycol distearate 0.5 g Perfume 0.35 g sodium benzoate 0.15 g sodium 0.2 g sodium chloride ad 100 g water

Example 10: Anti-dandruff shampoo

30 g Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 8 g cocamidopropyl 3 g glycol distearate 1 g Zinc pyrithione (Zinc Omadine®) 0.5 g Perfume 0.35 g sodium benzoate 0.15 g sodium 0.2 g sodium chloride ad 100 g water

Example 11: Cream shower bath

1. 12 g 70% sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2. ad 100 g water 3. 0.7 g preservative 4. 0.4 g Perfume 5. 7.5 g Opacifiers (20% by weight PEG-3 distearate and 18% by weight sodium lauryl ether sulfate in water) 6. 0.3 g Polyquaternium-10 (cationic cellulose) 7. 0.4 g PEG-7 glyceryl cocoat 8. 0.3 g D-panthenol 9.5 g Cocamidopropyl betaine, 30% in water 10. 1 g NaCl

Version 1:

Positions 1 and 2 become cold with the micromixer made a premix. The remaining positions are then successively in a conventional propeller agitator admixed.

Variant 2:

Positions 1 and 2 become hot with the micromixer made a premix with a cross-flow micro heat exchanger according to FIG. 6a / 6b of EP 0 391 895 B1 is cooled. The heat dissipated becomes heating a cross-flow micro heat exchanger upstream of the micromixer 6a / 6b of EP 0 391 895 B1. The remaining positions are then in a conventional one Propeller agitator mixed in one after the other.

Example 12: Sunscreen

Oil phase: INCI / EU Wt.% Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 0.30 Neo Heliopan AV / OA OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 10.00 Hostaphat KL 340 N TRILAURETH-4 PHOSPHATE 0.60 Hostacerin DGI POLYGLYCERYL-2 SESQUIISOSTEARATE 0.70 phenoxetol PHENOXYETHANOL 1.00 Cetiol 868 OCTYL STEARATE 5.00 Primol 352 MINERAL OIL 5.00 Abil Wax 9801D CETYL DIMETHICONE ---- Water phase: Carbopol 2984 CARBOMER 0.30 sodium hydroxide SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.06 Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 5.00 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100

Example 13: Sunscreen

Oil phase: INCI / EU % By weight Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 0.30 Neo Heliopan AV / OA OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 10.00 Hostaphat KL 340 N TRILAURETH-4 PHOSPHATE 0.60 Hostacerin DGI POLYGLYCERYL-2 SESQUIISOSTEARATE 0.70 phenoxetol PHENOXYETHANOL 1.00 Cetiol 868 OCTYL STEARATE 9.00 Primol 352 MINERAL OIL --- Abil Wax 9801D CETYL DIMETHICONE 1.00 Water phase: Carbopol 2984 CARBOMER 0.30 sodium hydroxide SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.06 Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 5.00 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100

Example 14 : Sunscreen

Lipid phase: INCI / EU % By weight Parsol 1789 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL METHANE 1.50 PHB methyl ester METHYLPARABEN 0.20 Neo Heliopan AV / OA OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 10.00 Neo Heliopan Type 303 OCTOCRYLENE 10.00 Finsolv TN C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 2.50 Eutanol G octyldodecanol 10.00 Antaron V 216 PVP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER 2.00 Vitamin E acetate TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.50 Perfume PERFUME 0.30 Abil Wax 9801D CETYL DIMETHICONE 0.50 Water phase: Carbopol 1382 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.45 Colorona Oriental Beige 17237 MICA (and) CI 77891 (and) CI 77491 0.05 Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 5.00 Edeta BD DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 sodium hydroxide SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.18 D-panthenol Panthenol 0.50 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100 Dekaben LMB IODOPROPYNYL BUTYLCARBAMATE 0.50

Example 15: O / W skin cream

Oil phase: INCI / EU % By weight Eumulgin B 3 CETEARETH-30 1.00 Tegin M GLYCERYL STEARATE 4.00 Lanette 16 CETYL ALCOHOL 3.00 beeswax CERA ALBA 1.00 Softisan 154 HYDROGENATED PALM OIL 2.00 Cetiol 868 OCTYL STEARATE 10.00 Abil 100 DIMETHICONE 1.00 methylparaben METHYLPARABEN 0.20 Propylparaben PROPYLPARABEN 0.05 Perfume PERFUME 0.50 Water phase: % Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 5.00 phenoxetol PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100

Example 16: O / W body lotion

Oil phase: INCI / EU % By weight Paraffin oil subliquidum PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM 7.50 Cetagol V CETEARYL ISONONANOATE 2.50 avocado oil PERSEA GRATISSIMA 2.00 Hostaphat 340 D. TRILAURETH-4 PHOSPHATE 3.50 methylparaben METHYLPARABEN 0.20 Propylparaben PROPYLPARABEN 0.05 Perfume PERFUME 0.50 Water phase: Carbopol 2984 CARBOMER 0.30 sodium hydroxide SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.06 phenoxetol PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 5.00 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100

Example 17: W / O body lotion

Oil phase: INCI / EU % By weight Paraffin oil subliquidum PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM 15.00 Cetiol 868 ETHYLHEXYL STEARATE 12,00 Dehymuls PGPH POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 2.00 Zincum N29 ZINC STEARATE 0.50 Vitamin E acetate TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.50 methylparaben METHYLPARABEN 0.20 Propylparaben PROPYLPARABEN 0.05 Perfume PERFUME 0.50 Water phase: Zinc sulfate 7 hydrate ZINC SULFATE phenoxetol PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 Glycerin 86% GLYCERIN 8.00 Water, fully desalinated AQUA Ad 100

Claims (33)

Process for the technical production of hair or skin cosmetic products, the products comprising a preparation which contains at least one hair or skin cosmetic ingredient, characterized in that at least one process step comprises passing the preparation or at least part of the preparation through an apparatus having microstructure units , A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the microstructure units have channels with a diameter of less than or equal to 1000 microns. A method according to claim 2, characterized in that the microstructure units have a plurality of channels lying one above the other and / or next to one another with a diameter of 10 to 1000 µm, through which different phases to be mixed pass and the mixing takes place when the phases emerge from the channels. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the apparatus with microstructure units is a static micromixer or a micro heat exchanger. A method according to claim 4, characterized in that at least one process step comprises the mixing of the preparation or at least part of the preparation with a static micromixer and a further process step the passage through a micro heat exchanger. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is a micro- or nanoemulsion. Method according to one of the preceding claims for the production of a dispersion-like hair or skin cosmetic preparation, characterized in that a first partial composition and a second partial composition immiscible with the first partial composition are fed to a micromixer, the sub-compositions are mixed with one another as they are passed through the micromixer, wherein at least one hair or skin cosmetic ingredient is either contained in one of the sub-compositions or is added to the mixed preparation after it emerges from the micromixer. A method according to claim 7, characterized in that a liquid aqueous phase is mixed with a liquid hydrophobic phase in a micromixer which has channels with diameters of 10 to 1000 µm and wherein at least one of the phases before the mixing and / or the mixed preparation Micro-heat exchanger is supplied, the micro-heat exchanger consists of a plurality of channels arranged one above the other and / or next to one another with diameters from 10 to 10000 μm, with spatially adjacent channels of the micro-heat exchanger being alternately flowed through by one of the phases or by the preparation and a heat transfer medium. A method according to claim 7, characterized in that the one phase is an aqueous, liquid phase and the other phase is a hydrophobic, liquid phase, wherein none or only one of the phases is heated to a temperature above room temperature. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that the hydrophobic phase is solid at room temperature and is fed to the micromixer in the molten state and the aqueous phase is fed to the micromixer at a temperature less than or equal to room temperature. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a continuous method, in which a heated preparation mixed in a micromixer is fed to a micro-heat exchanger and cooled there, and the preparation is then filled directly into portioned containers. Method according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the hydrophobic phase in the micromixer is mixed with the aqueous phase without an emulsifier. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that the hydrophobic phase is liquid at room temperature and is mixed with the aqueous phase at room temperature or below without heating in the micromixer. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains at least one temperature-sensitive substance, wherein the preparation or at least one phase or partial preparation containing the temperature-sensitive substance is passed through a micro-heat exchanger for the supply or removal of heat. A method according to claim 14, characterized in that the temperature-sensitive substance is selected from volatile substances, substances decomposing at temperatures above room temperature or substances which are chemically reactive with at least one of the other ingredients above room temperature. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a hair wax product, characterized in that the end product has a waxy consistency at room temperature, the product contains either at least two different waxy agents or at least one waxy agent and at least one other non-waxy additive or agent, the ingredients are mixed in a heated, fluid state and the mixed, heated and fluid composition is passed through a micro heat exchanger for heat dissipation. A method according to claim 16, characterized in that the wax-like active ingredient is selected from natural waxes, fossil waxes, synthetic waxes, partially synthetic waxes, hydrocarbon waxes, oxygen-functionalized hydrocarbon waxes, polyalkylene glycol waxes, polyolefin waxes, silicone waxes, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, hardened Fats, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, fatty acid glycerides, mono- or diesters of the formulas R ¹ - (C = O) OR ² , R ¹ - (C = O) OR ³ -O (C = O) R ¹ and R ² O (C = O) -R ³ -COOR ² , where R ^{1 is} a C8 to C22 alkyl group, R ^{2 is} a C3 to C22 alkyl group and R ^{3 is} a C2 to C16 alkylene group. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a hair or skin cleanser product, characterized in that the preparation contains at least one detergent active. A method according to claim 18, characterized in that a highly concentrated alkyl ether sulfate and an aqueous phase are first fed separately to a micromixer, the alkyl ether sulfate is dissolved in the aqueous phase as it is passed through the micromixer and then the remaining active ingredients and additives are added. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a cosmetic sunscreen, characterized in that the preparation contains at least one sunscreen active ingredient and the preparation or at least a partial preparation is passed through an apparatus with microstructure units. A method according to claim 20, characterized in that the sunscreen consists of an oil or lipid phase and a water phase and the sunscreen agent is selected from inorganic pigments absorbing UV light, inorganic nanopigments and oil- or water-soluble organic UVA, UVB or UVA / UVB filters. A method according to claim 21, characterized in that the organic filter substances are selected from 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and its salts, cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylanthratin derivative derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylate derivative derivatives Polymers with light protection and silicones with light protection. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a short hair composition, characterized in that the composition contains a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic phase and at least one active ingredient which is selected from C10 to C30 fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants. A method according to claim 23, characterized in that the hair treatment is creamy and highly viscous. A method according to claim 23, characterized in that the hair treatment is liquid, low viscosity and sprayable. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a hair dye, characterized in that the composition contains at least one hair dye or at least one oxidation dye precursor. A method according to claim 26, characterized in that the hair-coloring substances are selected from hair-coloring inorganic pigments and soluble, organic dyes which are applied directly to the hair. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a perfumed hair or skin treatment agent, characterized in that the agent contains at least one perfume or fragrance. A method according to claim 1 for the production of a cosmetic skin cream, characterized in that the skin cream is an emulsion composed of an aqueous phase and a hydrophobic phase and contains at least one skin-care active ingredient. A method according to claim 29, characterized in that the skin-care agent is selected from cosmetic oils, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, provitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, phospholipids, ceramides, betaine, panthenol. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair or skin cosmetic preparation contains at least one dispersed, powdery solid. A method according to claim 31, characterized in that the powdery solid is selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, talc, mica, kaolin, zinc oxides, titanium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate or bicarbonate, silica, glass balls, ceramic balls, powdered polymers. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair or skin cosmetic preparation contains at least one ingredient which is selected from hair care substances, hair cleansing substances, hair-setting substances, hair-coloring substances, skin-care substances, light stabilizers, fragrances and preservatives.