US20100132090A1

US20100132090A1 - Korean-Style Woman Jacket Design Method

Info

Publication number: US20100132090A1
Application number: US12/628,123
Authority: US
Inventors: Tae Bok Park
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2008-12-01
Filing date: 2009-11-30
Publication date: 2010-06-03
Also published as: KR100888822B1

Abstract

A Korean-style woman jacket design method is used in producing a jacket well-fitted to a woman with big breasts. The method includes the steps of: determining a back cover width L1 to be equal to one quarter of an armpit-passing chest girth plus n cm; determining a chest cover width L2 to be equal to one quarter of a nipple-passing chest girth plus m cm; determining a collar-back dimension L3 to be equal to [(neck girth/2)−p cm]/2; determining an armhole dimension L4 to be equal to (arm root girth/2) plus q cm; determining a cover flank dimension L5 to be equal to armhole dimension L4 plus r cm; determining a back cover height L6 to be equal to cover flank dimension L5 plus k cm; and determining a chest cover height L7 to be equal to back cover height L6 plus s cm.

Description

This application claims the benefit of Korean Patent Application No. 10-2008-0120397, filed on Dec. 1, 2008, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a Korean-style woman jacket design method and, more particularly, to a Korean-style woman jacket design method for determining the cutting dimensions of a Korean-style cloth material in such a manner as to produce a Korean-style woman jacket well-fitted to the body of a woman with big breasts.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Korean-style clothes refer to the traditional clothes worn by the Korean people for several hundred years, particularly in the Yi dynasty, one of the Korean dynasties. In recent years, the Korean-style clothes are often worn by women to take part in traditional festivals, funeral rites, memorial services, wedding ceremonies and so forth. In order to relieve the inconvenience in a daily life, reformed Korean-style clothes are popularized these days and are frequently worn as ordinary dresses.
Examples of the Korean-style clothes for women include a Korean-style woman jacket, a Korean-style woman skirt, a Korean-style woman waistcoat, a Korean-style woman shawl and a Korean-style woman topcoat. As examples of the Korean-style clothes for men, there exist Korean-style man trousers, a Korean-style man jacket, a Korean-style man waistcoat, a Korean-style man shawl and a Korean-style man topcoat.
These Korean-style clothes are distinguished from the Western-style ones by their peculiar traditional beauty derived from the harmony of straight lines and curved lines. Thus, the Korean-style clothes are evaluated to be garments having beautiful lines. This is particularly true in case of the Korean-style clothes for women. The woman jacket closely fitted to the body of a woman is in good harmony with the woman skirt getting widely spread toward the lower end. The combination of woman jacket and woman skirt makes a graceful and tidy style.
Furthermore, the Korean-style clothes serve to conceal shortcomings in the user's figure, making a short person look tall and making a thin person look plump. For example, a short woman looks good if she wears a skirt relatively short in length but not greater in width than a standard one and a jacket with a sleeve dimension somewhat shorter than a standard one. A tall woman looks chic if she wears a skirt and an undergarment, both of which have as great a width as possible. A stout woman had better wear a skirt a little great in width and a jacket longer than a standard one but relatively small in sleeve diameter. A thin woman had better wear a skirt sufficiently great in width and a jacket with an ample size. A woman having a short neck is recommended to wear a jacket whose collar has a relatively long back extension but a small width. A woman having a long neck is recommended to wear a jacket whose collar has a great width and a short length.
As set forth above, the Korean-style clothes have a lot of portions whose dimensions can be arbitrarily adjusted in conformity with the bodily characteristics of a wearer. This assists in concealing shortcomings of the wearer's body as far as possible and positively demonstrating strong points thereof.
In the Korean-style woman jackets, the jacket length, the sleeve length, the gusset width, the collar width, the breast-tie length and width and the collar strip width are slightly changed depending on the trend of the times.
One typical example of the Korean-style woman jackets is illustrated in FIG. 1. The names of individual portions of the Korean-style woman jacket and the structures thereof will be described with reference to FIG. 1.
The Korean-style woman jacket includes left and right chest covers 110 for covering the chest of a wearer, left and right back covers for covering the back of the wearer, and left and right sleeves 150 connected to the chest covers 110 and the back covers.
The portion of each of the sleeves 150 joined to each of the chest covers 110, namely the sleeve portions running from the shoulder line to the armpit, is referred to as an armhole 140 (the length of which is called “armhole dimension” and designated by “L4” in FIG. 2). The term “body armhole size” used herein refers to the distance between the shoulder and the armpit of a human body.
Typically, the lower end portion of each of the chest covers 110 is designed to extend downwards beyond the lower end portion of the armhole 140. The total length of the armhole 140 and the lower end portion of each of the chest covers 110 is called “cover flank dimension” and designated by “L5” in FIG. 2.
Each of the sleeves 150 has a sleeve end 200 which may be omitted if necessary. The hole of the sleeve end 200 is referred to as a hand hole or hand mouth. The portion of the Korean-style woman jacket that encircles the wearer's neck is referred to as a collar 120. A collar strip 130 usually in white color is attached to the collar 120. In particular, the generally straight portion of the collar 120 lying behind the wearer's neck is referred to as a collar-back extension (see FIG. 4).
When cutting each of the back cover, it is necessary to cut away the upper inner portion of each of the back covers corresponding to one half of the length of the collar-back extension, which is called “collar-back dimension” (“L3” in FIG. 2). Since the left and right back covers are independently cut in producing the Korean-style woman jacket, the collar-back dimension is actually used to pattern the jacket.
The curved lower end portion of the sleeve 150 is referred to as a bilge 160, and the curved lower end portion of each of the chest covers 110 is referred to as a chest trim edge 170. The bilge 160 and the chest trim edge 170 are designed to have naturally curved lines.
The front lower portions of the woman jacket overlapped with each other when the jacket is worn are referred to as gussets 190. The gussets 190 include an inner gusset 191 hidden inside the jacket (and joined to the right chest cover as shown in FIG. 3A) and an outer gusset 192 exposed to the outside of the jacket (and joined to the left chest cover as shown in FIG. 3B). The sharp protrusion formed at the lower end of the outer gusset 192 is referred to as a gusset nose 193.
Breast-ties 180 for allowing a wearer to make a knot are arranged above the gussets 190. The breast-ties 180 include a short tie attached to the right chest cover and a long tie attached to the left chest cover.
The distance between the vertical center line of the jacket and the outer end of one of the sleeves is called “wing length” (“L8” in FIG. 2). The distance between the upper and lower ends of each of the back covers is called “back cover height” (“L6” in FIG. 2), and the distance between the upper and lower ends of each of the chest covers is called “chest cover height” (“L7” in FIGS. 3A and 3B).
In general, the Korean-style woman jacket is produced by laying two or three pieces of cloth one atop another. The back covers (see FIG. 2) and the chest covers (see FIGS. 3A and 3B) are independently cut and then sewed together. In other words, the jacket is formed of the left back cover shown in FIG. 2, the right back cover (not shown) symmetrically arranged with respect to the left back cover, the right chest cover shown in FIG. 3A and the left chest cover shown in FIG. 3B. Although not shown in FIGS. 3A and 3B for simplicity, a sleeve having the same dimension as that of the sleeve of each of the back covers is joined to each of the left and right chest covers.
Prior to cutting a cloth material into a desired shape and size, there is a need to measure the bodily size of a wearer, which task is usually called “body dimension measurement”. At the end of the body dimension measurement, a pattern for the jacket is made on the cloth material using the body dimensions thus measured. That is to say, dimensions of the respective portions of the jacket are determined on the basis of the body dimensions. As distinguished from the body dimensions, the dimensions of the respective jacket portions are called “pattern dimensions”.
Whether a jacket is well-fitted to the body of a wearer depends on the pattern dimensions determined by the body dimensions. In a conventional design method of Korean-style woman jackets, the pattern dimensions for some parts are determined on the basis of the chest girth of a woman, i.e., the largest chest girth passing through the nipples (hereinafter referred to as “nipple-passing chest girth”). Then, the back height (the distance between the rear bottom end of the neck and the waist) and the wing length (the distance between the vertical center line of the body and the outer end of one of the arms) are measured to determine the pattern dimensions for other parts.
For example, the chest cover width (L2 in FIGS. 3A and 3B) is set equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus 2 cm. The armhole dimension (L4 in FIGS. 3A and 3B) is set equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth minus 0.5 cm. The collar-back dimension (L3 in FIGS. 3A and 3B) is set equal to one tenth of the nipple-passing chest girth minus 0.5 cm. The back cover width (L1 in FIG. 2) is set equal to the chest cover width.
Old time's women wearing the Korean-style woman jackets produced by the conventional design method did not feel that the jackets are ill-fitted. This is because the old time's women have relatively small breasts, i.e., a reduced nipple-passing chest girth. In other words, the jackets produced by the conventional design method were comparatively well-fitted to the old time's women.
However, the contemporary women have a bodily shape differing from that of the old time's women, particularly well-developed breasts. Therefore, if the jackets for the contemporary women with capacious breasts are produced according to the conventional design method, the back covers of the jackets may get loose without closely adhering to the back of a wearer. The Korean-style woman jackets look chic when they are made short. The reduced jacket height increases the possibility that the back covers of the jackets get separated from the back of a wearer. The possibility of the back covers getting loose is further increased when a woman with big breasts fastens the breast-ties of the jackets.
In addition, the armhole dimension and the collar-back dimension determined by the conventional design method are not well-matched to the woman with big breasts. Furthermore, the positions of gussets are decided by the nipple-passing chest girth and always kept constant. This means that the chest covers look untidy when the jacket of conventional design is worn by the woman with big breasts.
In a nutshell, the conventional jacket design method poses a problem in that the jacket produced on the basis of the chest girth is ill-fitted to the woman with big breasts. In particular, the back covers are likely to get loose when the jacket is worn by the woman with big breasts.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In view of the problems inherent in the prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a Korean-style woman jacket design method capable of determining the chest cover width and the back cover width at different values to thereby prevent the back covers of the jacket from getting loose even when the jacket is worn by a woman with big breasts.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a Korean-style woman jacket design method capable of determining the armhole dimension and the collar-back dimension at the values different than the conventional ones so that the resultant jacket can be well-fitted to the body of a contemporary woman.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a Korean-style woman jacket design method capable of changing the position of gussets depending on the size of breasts and the bodily shape, thereby making the breast portion of a jacket look tidy.
A still further object of the present invention is to provide a Korean-style woman jacket design method capable of formulating the pattern dimensions of a jacket, thereby making it easy to produce the jacket.
In accordance with the present invention, there is provided a Korean-style woman jacket design method, including the steps of: determining a back cover width L1 on the basis of an armpit-passing chest girth to be equal to one quarter of the armpit-passing chest girth plus n cm; determining a chest cover width L2 on the basis of a nipple-passing chest girth to be equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus m cm; determining a collar-back dimension L3 on the basis of a neck girth to be equal to [(neck girth/2)−p cm]/2; determining an armhole dimension L4 on the basis of an arm root girth to be equal to (arm root girth/2) plus q cm; determining a cover flank dimension L5 on the basis of the armhole dimension L4 to be equal to armhole dimension L4 plus r cm; determining a back cover height L6 on the basis of the cover flank dimension L5 to be equal to cover flank dimension L5 plus k cm; and determining a chest cover height L7 on the basis of the back cover height L6 to be equal to back cover height L6 plus s cm.
In the method noted above, the collar-back dimension L3 is determined to be equal to one quarter of the neck girth minus w cm, if the difference between the nipple-passing chest girth and the armpit-passing chest girth is x cm or more.
With the Korean-style woman jacket design method of the present invention, the chest cover width and the back cover width are determined at different values. This makes it possible to produce a jacket well-fitted to the body of a contemporary woman with big breasts. Furthermore, the armhole dimension and the collar-back dimension are determined at the values which are different from the conventional ones. This makes it possible to produce a jacket with good wearing sense. In particular, the jacket produced by the present design method has an advantage in that the back covers does not get loose even when it is worn by a contemporary woman with big breasts, thus making the jacket look chic and tidy. This assists in popularizing the Korean-style woman jackets to the young women who hesitate to wear such jackets. In addition, the present design method enables a designer to determine the pattern dimensions with ease, which makes it easy to learn how to design the Korean-style woman jackets.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The above and other objects and features of the present invention will become apparent from the following description of preferred embodiments, given in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a view illustrating one typical example of the Korean-style woman jackets;

FIG. 2 shows a left back cover designed by a Korean-style woman jacket design method in accordance with a first embodiment of the present invention;

FIGS. 3A and 3B show right and left chest covers designed by the Korean-style woman jacket design method of the first embodiment, with sleeves removed for clarity;

FIG. 4 shows a collar designed by the Korean-style woman jacket design method of the first embodiment; and

FIGS. 5A, 5B and 5C show a right back cover, a right chest cover and a left chest cover designed by a Korean-style woman jacket design method in accordance with a second embodiment of the present invention, with sleeves removed for clarity.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

Certain preferred embodiments of the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

First Embodiment

FIGS. 2 through 4 are views for explaining a Korean-style woman jacket design method in accordance with a first embodiment of the present invention.
In order to produce a Korean-style woman jacket, the body dimensions are first measured to determine the cutting dimensions by which to cut a cloth material. The body dimensions differ from the cutting dimensions, the latter of which will also be referred to as “pattern dimensions”.
In the conventional design method of Korean-style woman jackets, the pattern dimensions are determined on the basis of the nipple-passing chest girth of a woman. This does not matter in the past because the old time's women wearing the Korean-style woman jackets produced by the conventional design method have relatively small breasts, i.e., a reduced nipple-passing chest girth.
However, contemporary women have a body shape significantly differing from that of the old time's women. In particular, the breasts of the contemporary women are well-developed as compared to those of the old time's women. Since the pattern dimensions are determined on the basis of the nipple-passing chest girth in the conventional jacket design method, the back covers tends to get loose even if the chest covers are well-fitted to the wearer's body. The gussets are also designed on the basis of the nipple-passing chest girth and therefore are not well-fitted to the wearer's body.
The Korean-style woman jacket design method of the present invention aims to solve these problems. One of the features of the present jacket design method lies in that the chest cover width L2 is determined on the basis of the nipple-passing chest girth as in the conventional jacket design method but the back cover width L1 is determined on the basis of the chest girth passing through the armpits (hereinafter referred to as an “armpit-passing chest girth”). In other words, the back cover width L1 is set equal to one quarter of the armpit-passing chest girth plus 2 cm (see FIG. 2), but the chest cover width L2 is set equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus 2 cm (see FIG. 3).
If the back cover width L1 and the chest cover width L2 are determined in this manner, it is possible to eliminate the possibility that the left and right back covers get loose when a woman with big breasts wears the jacket thus designed.
FIG. 2 shows the left back cover together with the sleeve. Although not shown in the drawings, the right back cover is cut in a symmetrical relationship with the left back cover.
The collar-back dimension L3 illustrated in FIG. 2 is determined by measuring the neck girth of a wearer. In other words, the collar-back dimension L3 is set equal to [(neck girth/2)−1.5 cm]/2. The armhole dimension L4 is determined on the basis of the arm root girth (or the circumference the root portion of each arm) and set equal to (arm root girth/2) plus 3 cm. The cover flank dimension L5 is set equal to armhole dimension plus 5 cm. The back cover height L6 is set equal to cover flank dimension plus 2 cm. The chest cover height L7 is set equal to back cover height plus 4 cm. The wing length L8 is set equal to the distance between the center line of the rear portion of the neck and the wrist.
The bilge 160, i.e., the lower edge of each of the sleeves, is designed as follows. First, the section obtained by deducting the back cover width L1 from the wing length L8 (namely, the section DE in FIG. 2) is divided into two equal parts by a vertical line running between upper and lower division points K and K′. Then, the mouth portion of the sleeve (the section EF′ with the same dimension as the armhole dimension L4) is divided into five equal parts to find a three-fifth division point F of the mouth portion. The division point K′ is joined to the division point F by an oblique line. The oblique line K′F is divided into three equal parts to find two division points L and M. Two perpendicular lines are drawn downwardly from the division points L and M in a perpendicular relationship with the oblique line K′F. The perpendicular line extending from the division point L is divided into two equal parts and the perpendicular line extending from the division point M is divided into three equal parts. The division point K′ is joined to the division point F by a naturally curved line which passes through the one-half division point of the perpendicular line extending from the division point L and the one-third division point of the perpendicular line extending from the division point M. Thus, the curved cutting line of the bilge is completely drawn.
Referring again to FIG. 2, the chest trim edge 170 of each of the chest covers is designed by dividing the back cover width L1 into three equal parts, drawing an outwardly curved line over two of the equal parts from the end point B and drawing an inwardly curved line over the remaining equal part from the end of the outwardly curved line. It is preferred that the lower portion of the cover flank is cut to obliquely extend toward the center line.
FIGS. 3A and 3B show the right and left chest covers designed by the Korean-style woman jacket design method of the first embodiment, with sleeves removed for clarity. The outer gusset 192 of the left chest cover is placed over the inner gusset 191 of the right chest cover when the jacket is worn.
The chest cover width L2 is set equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus 2 cm. The armhole dimension L4 and the cover flank dimension L5 are set in the same manner as in the back cover. This means that the line segment DG of the chest cover shown in FIG. 3B exactly overlaps with the line segment DG of the back cover shown in FIG. 2. Although not shown in FIGS. 3A and 3B, the sleeves having the same shape and size as that of the sleeve shown in FIG. 2 are joined to the left and right chest covers. The dimension L3 of the line segment AI in FIG. 3B is set equal to the collar-back dimension L3 shown in FIG. 2. The dimension L3 of the line segment AI may vary with the bodily shape of a wearer. The size of the inner gusset 191 and the outer gusset 192 is dependent upon the bodily shape of a wearer, particularly the breast size. The chest trim edges of the left and right chest covers shown in FIGS. 3A and 3B are designed in the same manner as applied those of the back covers. Referring to FIG. 4, which shows the collar of the jacket, the dimension L3 of each of the line segments corresponds to the collar-back dimension L3 shown in FIG. 2. Since only one of the back covers is shown in FIG. 2, the collar-back dimension L3 is equal to one half of the length of the collar back extension.
Assuming that a wearer has the armpit-passing chest girth of 88 cm, the nipple-passing chest girth of 90 cm, the neck girth 35 cm and the armhole girth of 38 cm, the pattern dimensions of the jacket are determined as follows: back cover width L1=88/4+2=24 cm; chest cover width L2=90/4+2=24.5 cm; collar-back dimension L3=[(35/2)−1.5]/2=8 cm; armhole dimension L4=38/2+3=22 cm; cover flank dimension L5=22+5=27 cm; back cover height L6=27+2=29 cm; and chest cover height L7=29+4=33 cm.
By determining the pattern dimensions of the jacket as above, it is possible to produce a Korean-style woman jacket well-fitted to the body of a contemporary woman. When the jacket thus produced is worn, there is no possibility that the back covers get loose. In addition, the present design method makes it easy to produce a Korean-style woman jacket.

Second Embodiment

The Korean-style woman jacket design method in accordance with a second embodiment of the present invention is applied to a case where the difference between the nipple-passing chest girth and the armpit-passing chest girth is equal to or greater than 4 cm, namely to a woman with extremely big breasts. The jacket design method of the second embodiment is the same as the jacket design method of the first embodiment, except that the collar-back dimension L3 is determined in a different way.
As mentioned above, the Korean-style woman jackets produced according to the conventional jacket design method are not well-fitted to the bodies of the contemporary women who have big breasts. The jacket design method of the second embodiment is to ensure that the jacket is well-fitted to the body of a woman with extremely big breasts.
FIGS. 5A, 5B and 5C show a right back cover, a right chest cover and a left chest cover designed by the jacket design method in accordance of the second embodiment, with the sleeves removed for clarity. As in the first embodiment, the right back cover is cut in a symmetrical relationship with the left back cover.
Referring to FIGS. 5A, 5B and 5C, the back cover width L1 is set equal to one quarter of the armpit-passing chest girth plus 2 cm as in the first embodiment. The chest cover width L2 is set equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus 2 cm.
Unlike the first embodiment, the collar-back dimension L3 is set equal to one quarter of the neck girth minus 0.5 cm. The armhole dimension L4 is determined on the basis of the arm root girth (or the circumference the root portion of each arm) and set equal to (arm root girth/2) plus 3 cm. The cover flank dimension L5 is set equal to armhole dimension plus 5 cm. The back cover height L6 is set equal to cover flank dimension plus 2 cm. The chest cover height L7 is set equal to back cover height plus 4 cm.
Assuming that a wearer has the armpit-passing chest girth of 88 cm, the nipple-passing chest girth of 92 cm, the neck girth 36 cm and the armhole girth of 38 cm, the pattern dimensions of the jacket are determined as follows: back cover width L1=88/4+2=24 cm; chest cover width L2=92/4+2=25 cm; collar-back dimension L3=36/4−0.5=8.5 cm; armhole dimension L4=38/2+3=22 cm; cover flank dimension L5=22+5=27 cm; back cover height L6=27+2=29 cm; and chest cover height L7=29+4=33 cm.
By determining the pattern dimensions of the jacket as above, it is possible to produce a Korean-style woman jacket well-fitted to the body of a woman with extremely big breasts. As is apparent from the comparison of FIGS. 3 and 5, the position and shape of the inner gusset 191 and the outer gusset 192 in the second embodiment differs from that of the first embodiment. The dimensions of other parts are the same as those of the first embodiment.
While one preferred embodiment of the invention has been described hereinabove, the present invention is not limited thereto. It is to be understood that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the invention defined in the claims.

Claims

1. A Korean-style woman jacket design method, comprising the steps of:

determining a back cover width L1 on the basis of an armpit-passing chest girth to be equal to one quarter of the armpit-passing chest girth plus n cm;

determining a chest cover width L2 on the basis of a nipple-passing chest girth to be equal to one quarter of the nipple-passing chest girth plus m cm;

determining a collar-back dimension L3 on the basis of a neck girth to be equal to [(neck girth/2)−p cm]/2;

determining an armhole dimension L4 on the basis of an arm root girth to be equal to (arm root girth/2) plus q cm;

determining a cover flank dimension L5 on the basis of the armhole dimension L4 to be equal to armhole dimension L4 plus r cm;

determining a back cover height L6 on the basis of the cover flank dimension L5 to be equal to cover flank dimension L5 plus k cm; and

determining a chest cover height L7 on the basis of the back cover height L6 to be equal to back cover height L6 plus s cm.

2. The method as recited in claim 1, wherein the collar-back dimension L3 is determined to be equal to one quarter of the neck girth minus w cm, if the difference between the nipple-passing chest girth and the armpit-passing chest girth is x cm or more.

3. The method as recited in claim 1, wherein n is 2, m is 2, p is 1.5, q is 3, r is 5, k is 2 and s is 4.

4. The method as recited in claim 2, wherein w is 0.5 and x is 4.