US2325639A - Shoemaking - Google Patents

Description

Au 3, 1943 K. A. STRITTER SHOEMAKING Filed Jan. 21, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet l Irwerafoz W pwaw iup (93%?228Jj6 Aug. 3, 1943. K. A; STRITTER SHOEMAKING Filed Jan. 21, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 III/III IIIII J ltpziseommon:piacticed sheer'rial lmg to --decorative arch 1 supponmlgh plaque edapted 'to he 01 conventional shapeyin omen 1;!)"imm'xflainje the 1 j'ledyantage an etch 'sup'pbrt iin th'e fint'hedn with the :advantagezq! easy steel; fitting-sin "valuable for it's "orthopedi l function mu; 1 Whieh adds a *da'shiof Imle-style'taitheshoeaa departure 4mm"conventional;,1shqema-king 2;pr2cettcei which pedic tunctitmymthingly appearance;

haimheretofore elmusdmvambl nm led e'rtho-XE impomtant'edvanta'ge {of my invention etructure of thevshue mud i mstened-rbetweeri the and "the sole estfdcturezbyfthe fisual-lmeens en-mloyed :to unite the xupljertgandithe shoe bdtf :q'lhat lstofiflmi iie mlaqileoflmy invention 1 may beemployedlin any of the conventiqnal ctypes ofrshqes such as the weld McKay; 1 cement,

or turn-without requirm gze-ehange in'thwmeans used ttoafasten :the 'uppertothe sole "01501885 1 m' featme ,of' my invention @is "the combination wvithfe. decorative "arch stlppofiin'g'lplaqueiiof ran integral portion extendmg mrwardly elong the made 0! t the sole: to fill thezhol-lowrah theiliside of theevemge foot.i"= e t Another advantage. ofxmy; inventien comes fro m the fact that LI may use warieust'pl astiema g-teriels to form-thefdecorative; arehj suppozting" plBque,.1since the-plaque is-not-aamartmf mamnr putsole ".BIIdi ;such 1plastic p la ql lesimay 1 ris I fwthat theilewex 'mmiginofthe deoomtivemreh supe porting plaque may 1 easily be imrpomted .1121 :ithe

' fyfftww efiermerfize or eo'nti-est witfi the @1055; the 518- sterlagl used to form: the upper fof {the shoe rend sb maid-ornamentalvalueto theshoe.

'ti'on'of preferred embodiments thereohselected dmpanyingadrawings; in'whlehe-e vstmcted with the plaque o f. my;invent10n, 1

i of Fig-v1 andiillustratingttheemployment of the kplaquedmbonjunction with a; cement s1;1ee,

shu emplpying "the plaque of my invention, a

Estitch-down sheetemploying the plaque .o fqny gaeinventlom t v 2 the ins oleais gooupled with a decorative;archsup! xPOIting plaque {extending along; theouts ide su r- F1357 is a plan view-etenputsole end pleque; jmgfiB is a viewin cross 3 54-10-111 Flgj'lyand t f e-ion: n w.

"any :wde'sir'ed nomamentatiom PI-he fcenstructiori r lastedto anwinsole I 8 by staples 2-0;. -Qw nesselong; the inside margin of theshank :90

or dimer; surface :without unduly; increasing ,its wbulk; uIn 'praptiee theusualsstocbfitting openations: on the t'outsble l 2 are carried out, including 1 the afeducingbf, theshank 1 edge then :the plaque These'glmdother objects'and-featlires:OfhwFlH? vention 'willmore readilyben derstoodand-ap preciated fromg-thefollowing-detailed} idseripl- I fozwpmfiposescof;"illustrationand shown in theme- 3 v Jan arehesupporting mingromcookyjmtegrakwith c A V E anI ms IemQshankfMe e andithz s elsmbeienipxiq-w 3 :pmedto femn such-taming astanelrjxtfel pa'mn'f l 1 toutsolen LEHQwevenAthei presence 3111 1a sole 501 an integral win'g seriously; ifnterfeiesf -Fig r5 isua wie'wflin crosssection througheie, V

section along; thegine 5 A 9 ts: a view in'crpss eeeti oh-v a leng theztl iiie' I Fig. 11Ihave shown aN-shee compl ieing an upper III of standard cut, anputsqle 12 anda heel p14; a'llfiassembled in g-eonventiqnal fashion.

decorative;1arch-sup1yrting plaque 16 1s; pos itionedroutside the uppe'rgatthe-insideshankgf}; l

the ;shoef=andilextends fm mja; point to theme: the heel bieqstklinesubstantially to the p n IineEQf the-soIe. It illi be seenth at the plaqge i 15 1s substantially al enate-in shape althqugh the I edge mayrbe scalloped, beaded-pr subjectedeto x lids cemented Ito thejeppep surf efie 10f t heputf2 v f 2,325,639

corporated in the structure of a stitch-down shoe, the upper 10, as shown in Fig. 5, is lasted inthe sole I2, after which the sole and the plaque are,

- placed in a sole molding or conforming 'machine Whichimparts to the sole a configuration corresponding to the curves .of the last bottom. It

-will be understood that the plaque and the outsole may be molded separately and then joined. The molded outsole l2 with its attached plaque it is then cemented to the insole l8. and to the.

'overla-stedlmarginof the upper Iii, this operation beingcarried out on a'standard cement sole attaching machine. Since the plaque "Iii should preferably be secured to the outer surface ofthe upper, 'I prefer to coat the inside face of the plaque with a' suitableadhesive before'the'sole is attached to the shoe. During the sole attach- ;ing operation the plaque I6 is pressed'tightly' against the upper Ill and a firm bond is produced.

- However, other methods of securing" the plaque to the upper maybe used toadvantage. After the;

- lasthas been removed from the shoe the upper' and plaque may be stitched togetheror. secured {together bygieyelets which: penetrate the. plaque,

the'upper Ill, the counter 22. and the 'lining'23.

fThe-stitching may be carried out to form aiancy I border along the'edge of. the plaque, and if eyelets are used, they maybe of any suitably decorae tive-design. H V {In Fig.- 3 I have shown an alternative form of the invention in which-a plaque is employed in conjunction with a shoe'of the McKaytype. The shoe includes an 'outsole' 3B whichis stock-fitted in the'usual manner {and channeledas shown at bottom filler Afiis then applied in the usualmanner'and" the outsole 36 with its plaque v32 is then securedto the upper and the insole 38 by the *conventional McKay seam 42 which is concealed in': the channel 3| and whichunites the outsole 130, theplaque'32, the upper'34, the counter stiffener. 35, the lining 35, and the insole 38. -When this operation has been accomplished the plaque 32is secured to the upper as'above'described. In c this instance I have'shown an eyelet 43 which I q penetrates the plaque 32 and theplies of the up-" per; The eyelet 43 has the function of providing ventilation to the interior of the shoe in'addlition f'toitsfunction of anchoring the upper part of the v. plaqueto the upper. t

f 'When the plaqueof my invention is utilized in 'f a welt shoe,- 'a slightlydifferent treatment is re- ,quired. fAs shown inFig} 4; an insole 5i] is,channeled ,andfprovided withan upstanding sewing rib 52 and a reinforcing ply of gem duck M. An iipper 55 is then lasted "to the reinforced sewing rib-5,2 as bysta'pleslifl. I The lower margin ofja j'pla'quefiflis then temporarily fastened, as by cenientfor. example, to the outer surface; offthe 'j ov erlastedfmargin of the upper 59. A welt Bil is then'sewnto thelasteds'hoelin the'usual manner R 1 by an-inseam Elwhich passes through the welt 5B, the plaqueSS; the upper 56, the sewing rib 52' and the gem duck 54. After the bottom of the lasted shoe has been filled an 01113501654 is attached by means of a seam uniting theoutsole-and the welt es in the usual -manner.v Subsequently the upper exposed portion of the plaque Ellis secured to-the' upper. and in this case I have illustrated the use of stitching as shown at 66.

When the plaque of my invention is to be inbase flange, is positioned with the flange resting on the outlasted flange of the-upper. An adhesive may be used to hold-it temporarily in place. Finally thev shoe is welted intheifusual manner, the welt 84 running over the flange of the plaque and a seam 86 uniting the outsole and welt to the remainder of the shoe. Subsequently the upper portion of the plaque llfl may be secured e. to theouter surface'of the upper 10 by any of the means" heretofore described.

' ..It will be apparent that the plaque may also be incorporated in a turn shoe, in' which case the plaque is laid on the last with its base overlapping the sole, following which the shoeis lasted and finished in the usual mannerf ,"I'he plaque must, however, becar'efully tempered so that it will stand the operation of turning the shoe.

InFig. 6 I have illustrated anotherembodi- *mentof'theinve ntion as applied, byway of exe ample, to a cemented shoe. An insole 59' having 7 at the inside shank; Subsequentlyv an outsole' ,3 96 iscemented to the shoe bottom, a plaque '98 having first been secured to the outsole and mold- 7 ed With'it. When the last is removed-the cookie v 92 and the plaque 98 are secured togetherby one 1 or more: eyelets Hill. The result'isan extremely strong andeffectivej arch-supporting truss. The

V eyelets'ventilate the shoe and the: laque provides a pleasingstyle 'eiTect in addition to its function as an arch support. V

. In .Figs. 7, 8 and 9 I have illustrated a further. feature. of the, invention. An outsole H0 is fitted for use in a cement shoe and has its inside shank reduced to receive a portion of. the"base of a plaque l-l2. fiowever' thepl aque has an integral, rearwardly extending peninsula or finger H4 which. rests on theupp'er surface of. the outsole at the heel seat, along the inside margin of the outsole. The finger H4 is preferably wedge-shaped in transversecross section as'appears in Fig. 9, the narrower edge of the wedge being directed inwardly. Thefinger thus thrusts the insole upwardly to fill the hollow at the'side' of the heel of the foot of a wearer.v Furthermore,

the base "of the plaque extends forwardly across the shank, ending slightly'behind the ball line,

to form-a longitudinal stiffener forrtheshank of the shoe. r

The plaque of my invention may-be decorated obtained; :The fact that'the plaque is small,

makes it easy to handle and permits the use of conventional embossing machines. Various designs may be embossed or tooled into leather plaques. For example, the'plaque shownjin Fig.

1 exhibits an attractive border surrounding initial so that the purchaser may buy a pair of monogrammed shoes. Decalcomanias may be used to decorate plastic plaques-or a suitable design may be worked out in the seam uniting a plaque toan upper. Furthermorelthe plaques cealed. l n

The plaque of'myinvention may be used with p a. platform, or midsole, type ofshoe, and in such cured against the lasted margin oftheupper.

Having thus described and illustrated my in-;

I p p 2,325,6 inaybe covered-with an ornamental sheathfof leather, fabric, or" other sheet material, in which case the lower edge of the cover will extendjbe n and the sole andbe entirelylcon- V twen the upper cases the plaque will beheld between the upper andlthe midsole." In vthe appendedeIaiins term outsole refersto the sole whichis se- 2." The process of shoemaking whichineludes T the steps Ofpreparing anout'sole for incorporation' in a shoenreducing the shank of the outfs olealong the upper edge of its inside shank portion, attaching an edge of an arch-supporting" plaque toj the reduced margin oi. the outsole vention, what I claim as new'and desired to se-" cure by Letters Patentxof the United States is;

1. The process otshoemaki ng which includes the steps of preparing an outsole for incorpora tion in a shoe, reducing the shank of the outsole" along its upper edge portion, attachingan edgeofj shank andeiitending the rear end of the plaque 'rearwardly on the upper surface of the heel seat portion of the outsole, then fastening the outsole" 1 with its attached plaque to a lasted upperand inn sole, and subsequently securing the plaque on the outs ide of the upper above thetsole. V t

' i KARL ASTRIT IER. C

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