US2645042A - Moccasin - Google Patents

Description

y 14, 1953 K. A. STRITTER 2,645,042

MOCCASIN Filed Oct. 20, 1950 I 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor Karl A. Siriiier B ney July 14, 1953 K. A. STRITTER 2,645,042

MOCCASIN Filed Oct. 20, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 I1 IIIIIIIQ B7111 Am ney I F157. 9 135 K. A. STRITTER July 14, 1953 MOCCASIN 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Oct. 20, 1950 Inventor w m r r 1.0 r. A 4 m y 4, 1953 K. A. STRITTER 2,645,042

MOCCASIN Filed Oct. 20, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 In ven for Karl/1. Sirifier By hi Attorney Patented July 14, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MOCCASIN Karl A. Stritter, Nahant, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., g a corporation of New Jersey Application October 20, 1950, Serial No. 191,250

2 Claims.

a single piece of leather forms the bottom and.

sides of the shoe which engage the forepart of the foot, a toe piece being sewed to the sides to complete the forepart enclosure.

Objects of this invention are to provide a moccasin blank and moccasin wherein the shank and heel portions of the moccasin are adequately shaped to a last to enhance the comfort of the wearer by providing, in the shank and heel portions of the moccasin, the fitting and shape-retaining properties of a regular lasted shoe, reinforced, if desired, by a quarter lining or counter pocket and a hard, molded counter.

As a feature of the invention, a blank suitable for forming the bottom and sides of the forepart of a moccasin is provided with an integral extension to form an insole for the shank and heel portions of the moccasin, the blank having side and quarter portions adapted to be connected by a back seam, the side portions being spaced from the integral insole along the shank and heel and being separated by slits at the ball portion which follow substantially the lines of the opposite sides of the shoe bottom and permit the side portions to be lasted over the insole adjacent to the ball portion as well as along the shank and heel.

Use of the blank in making a moccasin consists in turning up the side portions of the forepart, temporarily attaching a toe piece or plug thereto, closing the blank by a back seam, sewing the plug to the upturned vamp, placing the shoe upon a' through-and-through stitching or a midsole may' be so attached and an outsole sewed to the midsole.

These and other features and aspects of the invention will appear more fully from the following description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan view of a blank for the bottom, sides and insole of a moccasin;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the plug or toe piece;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a saddle strap;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a counter reinforcement and kick-off;

Fig. 5 is a sectional view on the line V-V of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the moccasin after the last has been inserted and the sides of the upper at the shank and heel have been lasted over the insole portion;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the completed moccasin;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary section on the line VIII-VIII of Fig. 7 showing the manner of attaching the outsole;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary sectional view of a moccasin having the outsole attached by means of a midsole;

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a blank for a true moccasin having separate quarter portions of the blucher type;

Fig. 11 is a plan view of the plug or toe piece;

Fig. 12 is a plan view of a midsole;

Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line XIII XIII of Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a bottom view of a moccasin made from the blank of Fig. 10 having quarters lasted over a shank and heel piece applied to the integral insole;

Fig. 15 is a top view of the moccasin shown in Fig. 14;

Fig. 16 is a side view of the moccasin similar to that of Fig. v12 showing the sole and heel attached; and

Fig. 17 is a side view of a shoe having a moccasin forepart and side and back straps secured to an insole integral with the bottom of the forepart.

The blank of Fig. l and that of Fig. 2 constitute the essential parts of a true moccasin. The body blank of Fig. 1, which represents its inner face, has a portion 20 to form the bottom of the forepart and integral therewith is a portion 22 to form an insole for the shank and heel portion. The portions 24, 26 are to form the sides of the moccasin. The edges of the sides are skived or beveleda-t 28, 3D to receive a plug or toe piece 32 (Fig. 2) the corresponding edges of which are beveled at 34 for application to the edges 28, 30. The edges 36, itfiat the toe of the blank are united by an inturned closing seam, and the edges 38,

are butted against each other and held by a zigin United States Letters Patent No. 1,950,386,.

granted March 13, 1934, upon application of Fred Ashworth. In the blank of Fig. 1 it will be noted that the side portions at the shank and heel are separated from the insole portion 22 by spaces 46, 48, the space 48 on the outer side being larger than the space 40 in the blank for a left shoe,

which is the one represented. In the blank for a right shoe these conditions would be reversed, and the amount the spaces differ from each other will depend upon the swing of the last. At the inner ends of the spaces 45:, 48 are slits 41, 49 which extend parallel to the sides of the shoe near the ball portion thereof and preferably are located slightly inwardly of the edge of the shoe bottom, the slits being for the purpose of allowing the side portions of the blank, that is, the portion carrying the outer edge of the slit,-to be lasted over the insole portion, that is, the portion carrying the inner edge of the slit, as shown in dotted lines in Figs. 6 and 14. A saddle piece 50 (Fig. 3) will now be attached to the throat portion of the forepart as shownin Fig. 7. The heel end portion of the closed blank may be reinforced with a blank 54 (Fig. 4) the edges 56 of which are closed, and a seam 53 may be sewed in the blank to provide a kick-off 60, as shown in Fig. l. The blank 5 the edges of which may be skived, is secured to the heel end of the moccasin by a seam 62 (Fig. 6) as a back stay or reinforcement. The exposed top edges of the side portions may be provided with a binding 64.

The moccasin, which is now completed except as to its shank and heel portions, is mulled or dipped in water and a last inserted, the last being preferably of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,404,805, granted July 3, 1946, upon application of V. J. Levaggi, Jr. The last is inserted while in shortened condition and then expanded to stretch and shape the shoe to the last. The lower marginal portions 65, 68 of the upper at the shank and heel portions are now lasted over the shank and heel portions of the insole 22 and secured in lasted position in any usual manner, as shown in Fig. 6. The slits 4'1, .9 allow the side portions 66, 68 to be lasted over the integral insole 22 in the ball region of the moccasin without forming bunches or wrinkles so that the outer edge of each slit will lie beneath the inner edge of the slit when the shoe is right side up. While on the last, an outsole IQ of suitable material is laid, the last removed, and through-and-through stitches l2 sewed to attach the sole securely to the shoe. In Fig. 8 two rows or stitches are shown which lie in grooves in the outer face of the sole. If desired, a rubber or synthetic outsole with a heel I4 (Fig. '7) molded thereon may be employed.

Fig. 10 illustrates a blank for a moccasin of the blucher type in which the sides of the upper at the shank and heel, instead of being integral with the iorepart, are formed by separate quarters attached in overlapping relation to the sides of the forepart. A blank I6 provides material for the bottom and sides of the forepart and has integral therewith an insole portion 22 for the shank and heel and has slits 4T, 49 between the ball portion of the sole and the sides to permit lasting of the lower marginal portions of the sides or quarters over the insole portion. The slits 41, 49 are parallel to and spaced inwardly from the edge of the last bottom at the ball portion thereof and assist greatly in the lasting operation at the ball portion, thus avoiding objectionable bunches or wrinkles.

The cuts at the toe end are closed and a plug I8 attached in the manner already described. Quarters I9, having their top edges 82, 84 folded are attached in overlapping relation to the sides of the forepart by seams 8%, as indicated in Fig. 10. The rear ends 88 of the quarters are united by a closing seam 50 (Fig. 14). After a seam 92 (Fig. 15) is sewed uniting the vamp and the plug, the moccasin is mulled and placed on a last. A shank and heel stiffener 94 is applied to the integral insole 22 and the lower marginal portions of the quarter tensioned and lasted over the stiffener 94 and secured thereto in lasted relation, for example, by curved staples 96. The heel-seat portion is preferably lasted by tacks 98, for example, in a heel-seat lasting machine. The quarters may be lined as usual and a molded counter 53 introduced between the lining and quarters before heel-seat lasting. A covered wedge heel I00 and an outsole I02 may now be attached in any suitable manner to the completed shoe, as shown in Fig. 16 which illustrates a shoe having blucher quarters of a slightly different style from those in Fig. 15 and having a heel end reinforcement I 04 of counter shape attached at its heel end portion. In case a sandal type shoe having a moccasin forepart is desired, a blank similar to the blank 75 (Fig. 10) without any quarters may be provided and straps I82 at the sides and I08 at the heel may be attached to an insole 22 which is integral with the forepart. A. sole H0 and spring heel II2 may be attached in any suitable manner.

In making a moccasin of the welt type, an outsole may be attached by use of a midsole such as that shown right side up in Figs. 9, 12 and 13. The midsole comprises a body portion to which a slashed welt II 4 is attached. The body portion comprises two layers nearly throughout its length, each layer being in two parts of different material. The forepart layers H6, H8 are of cushion material such as cork composition and the shank and heel layers I 20, I22 are of stiff material such as fiberboard. The heel-seat portions of the layers I 20, I22 are of the same size and are large enough to abut the ends of the welt H4 at the breast line and afford a trimming allowance. The outer layers IIE, I20 toeward of the breast line are substantially of last-bottom size and the inner layers I I8, I22 are of the same shape but smaller so as to expose about one-half inch of the marginal portion of the outer layers I I6, I20 all the way around the shank and forepart from breast line to breast line. The rear portion of the cushion layer I I 8 extends over the forward end of the outer layer I20 far enough to form a strong lap joint at I23 (Fig. 12) and abuts the forward end of the layer I22. The parts of the body portion are cemented together in assembled relation and a welt I I 4 laid thereon with cement to complete the midsole. The completed midsole is laid upon the bottom of a moccasin such as that shown in Fig. 6 or Fig. 14, the last removed, and through-and-through stitches I24 (Fig. 9) sewed through the bottom of the moccasin, the slashed portion of the welt and the marginal portions of the layers I I6, I20. An outsole I26 is then laid and attached by stitches I28 to the welt I M. The welt may be of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,085,002, granted January 20, 1914, in the name of W. B. Arnold.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. A blank for a moccasin having an integral portion forming the bottom and sides of the forepart, having an integral portion extending integrally rearwardly from the bottom of said forepart and forming the ball, shank and heel parts of an insole, and having quarter sections extending integrally rearwardly from the side portions of the forepart, said quarter portions being separated from the insole at the ball by slits beginning rearwardly of the widest portion of the ball part, flaring outwardly toward the forepart, and terminatingg substantially at the center of the ball part, and said quarter portions being separated from the shank and heel portions of the insole by spaces, the space on the inner side of the blank being larger than that on the outer side.

2. A shoe of the moccasin type having integral bottom and side portions at the forepart, having a plug sewed to the, sides of the forepart, and having an insole portion integral with the bottom of the forepart and extending integrally rear- Wardly therefrom to form the ball, shank and heel portions of an insole, there being forwardly extending, outwardly flaring slits between the ball KARL A. STRITTER.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date D. 131,318 Levin Feb. 3, 1942 203,851 Pitts May 21, 1878 1,575,004 Robertson Mar. 2, 1926 2,329,819 Braun Sept. 21, 1943

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