US3404468A - Moccasin shoe - Google Patents

Moccasin shoe Download PDF

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US3404468A
US3404468A US612003A US61200367A US3404468A US 3404468 A US3404468 A US 3404468A US 612003 A US612003 A US 612003A US 61200367 A US61200367 A US 61200367A US 3404468 A US3404468 A US 3404468A
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shoe
sole
vamp
forepart
extending
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US612003A
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Rosen Henri Elliott
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Priority to US612003A priority Critical patent/US3404468A/en
Priority to GB0269/68A priority patent/GB1212063A/en
Priority to FR1574691D priority patent/FR1574691A/fr
Priority to DE19681685710 priority patent/DE1685710A1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/14Moccasins, opanken, or like shoes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/26Footwear characterised by the shape or the use adjustable as to length or size

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  • ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A moccasin-type footwear construction in which an elastically stretchable element is secured between the marginal edges of the upper so as to enable the upper to be stretched by the foot of the wearer to provide a comfortable lit for feet of varying widths.
  • the marginal edges of the upper are free from direct attachment to the sole.
  • This invention relates to footwear and more particularly to footwear which may -be adjusted in a widthwise dimension to provide an increased cross-sectional area at least in its forepart for superior fit and comfort.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross to- Y wards the outer periphery of the shoe, and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe:
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down and preferably under the peripheral edge of the bottom of the foot and inturned between the foot and the mid-sole or sole element of the shoe, with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of said shoe preferably inturned toward one another between the foot and the sole element and free of direct connection to said sole element between the ice toe and backpart portions of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto;
  • adjustment means preferably in the form of resiliently stretchable elastic sheet material, connected to at least one and preferably both of the margins of said upper element along substantially the entire longitudinally extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portions, said upper element being connected to said sole element directly, or through said resiliently stretchable material, or by being connected to at least one intermediate element such as a mid-sole which in turn is connected directly to said sole element, at least only at said heel and toe portions, yand said resiliently stretchable material preferably but not necessarily being connected to said sole or intermediate element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from the connection of said resiliently stretchable material to said upper element;
  • said resiliently stretchable material is transversely stretchable in a widthwise direction by the foot of the wearer to provide a variable transverse crosssectional area in at least part of the mid-portion of said shoe.
  • FIG. 1 is a top view of a shoe constructed according to the invention
  • FIGS. 2, 3, 4, and 5 are cross-sectional views taken, respectively, on the lines 2 2, 3 3, 4--4 and 5-5 of FIGS. 1 through 3;
  • FIGS. 6 and 7 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 1 through 6;
  • FIGS. 8 and 9 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 6 and 7;
  • FIG. 10 is a transverse elevational view of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9;
  • FIGS. 11 and 12 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of another modification of Ithe shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9;
  • FIG. 13 is a transverse elevational view of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 11 and 12.
  • the shoe construction of the present invention will be described as embodied in a leather shoe similar in appearance to the well-known loafer of the genuine moccasin type, having separate mid and outer soles and a heel.
  • the shoe upper element includes two main pieces generally called the vamp 10 and the plug 12, these two pieces usually being joined by stitching 11 to form a seam around the upper edge of the forepart of the shoe.
  • the midsole 14 is attached to the bottom of the vamp 10, and the outsole 16 to the bottom of the midsole 14.
  • a heel 18 is attached to the rear or heel portion of the outsole 16.
  • Other pieces may be used, such as cuffs, backstays, trim, sock-linings, etc.
  • the inner surface of the vamp 10 may be skived at its outer edge in a usual fashion 'and the outer U-shaped edge of the plug 12 also may be skived, at least where it is expected to be joined to the vamp so that a neat seam may be produced.
  • the heel portion of the vamp 10 is completed as by a backseam or in any other suitable fashion and an edge trim or cuff 13 is applied around that portion of the vamp 10 which will become the sides and back of the ankle opening. This leaves the entire forward portion of the outer edge of the vamp free and exposed. This outer edge is secured to the outer U-shaped edge of the plug 12 to complete the forepart of the shoe. It is to be noted that, in genuine moccasin construction, the forward edge of the vamp is considerably longer than the plug edge to be joined to it. At the start, the back parts ⁇ are usually stitched together and the cuff added.
  • edge of the forward part of the vamp is preferably progressively stitched and shortened to match the plug edge by sewing and gathering by hand or otherwise to produce the relatively transversely non-stretchable shoe upper element which overlies the mid-sole 14 and the outsole 16, and extends continuously across it in the forepart of the shoe above, around and below the wearers foot.
  • the present invention provides a shoe which in its external appearance can be made similar to the genuine moccasin loafer type of shoe construction above described, but adds further unique constructional features which enable it to be stretched freely in a widthwise direction in the forepart of the shoe by the foot of a wearer for superior fit and comfort.
  • the bottom of the usual genuine moccasin one-piece vamp portion of the shoe upper element which conventionally extends transversely across the bottom of the forepart of the shoe and overlies the sole, is provided with a longitudinally and transversely extending opening or an equivalent area having rows of staggered longitudinal slits or other means providing longitudinal margins of the vamp which are free to move transversely.
  • the vamp bottom opening provides inwardly turned transversely extending toe and heel margins 22, 23, respectively, and generally longitudinally extending side margins 24, 2S, respectively.
  • the shoe vamp 10 is attached directly, along its inturned surfaces near the edge of the sole, to either mid-sole or sole elements.
  • the longitudinal margins of the vamp at least in the forepart are attached to a resiliently stretchable element leaving the shoe upper free to stretch in a widthwise direction in that area.
  • the vamp is connected to the sole element or to a mid-sole element which is subsequently attached to the sole element, either directly or through the resiliently stretchable element at least at the backpart and toe portion of the shoe, leaving the vamp free to be stretched in a widthwise direction throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe between its toe and backpart areas of attachment.
  • the resilienly stretchable element may not be itself connected to the sole or mid-sole element along a longitudinally extending line or lines, but it must be recognized that any such connection must be transversely spaced from the line of connection to the vamp margin for a sufcient distance to allow a substantial degree of widthwise stretch.
  • a distance of about 1/2 inch or somewhat less at the maximum shoe widthwise dimension has been found to be satisfactory. It has also been found satisfactory to connect the upper directly to the mid-sole or sole elements at the toe and backpart portions only, leaving the rest of the upper free to stretch in a widthwise direction and also free to be lifted away from the sole element so that the user may more easily A free the shoe of pebbles or other foreign matter that may become trapped between sole and upper.
  • the above requirements are 4met by providing the bottom vamp opening with an elastic, resiliently stretchable insert which is preferably of elastic fabric or other elastic sheet material, and preferably sewn about its periphery to the abutting maggins 22, 23, 24 and 25 of the opening of the vamp 10 as by stitching 26.
  • the elastic fabric insert 20 may be resiliently stretched by the foot of a wearer in accordance with the invention, it is left unconnected to mid-sole 14 ⁇ along its longitudinal margins.
  • the vamp 10 is connected at its toe and backpart portions by stitching 27 and 28 respectively, here shown as sewn through the bottom of vamp 10 to mid-sole 14.
  • the mid-sole 14 is also connected to the mid-sole 14 by one or more lines of stitching 29 spaced a substantial distance inwardly from the lines of stitching 24 and 25, preferably generally midway therebetween in order to provide a high degree of stretch.
  • lines of stitching 29 may be omitted with vamp 10 and its elastic insert 20 being connected to midsole 14 only at its toe and backpart portions.
  • the elastic fabric 20 in theregion between the lines of stitching attaching it to the Imid-sole 14 and to the margin of the vamp 10 is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the forepart of the shoe.
  • outsole 16 is attached in the conventional manner to mid-sole 14 as by stitching 30 extending around the peripheral margin thereof, or by cementing mid-sole 14 and outsole 16 together, leaving the longitudinally extending margins 24, 25 of vamp 10 free to be stretched in a widthwise direction in accordance with the invention.
  • the vamp construction of the shoes of FIGS. 6 through 13 differs from that of FIGS. 1 through 5 mainly in that the bottom of vamp 10 is provided over a substantial portion of its bottom area in the forepart of the shoe with a plurality of longitudinally extending short slits 32 arranged in staggered rows Within the vamp margins, including longitudinal margins 31, 33 of such area portion.
  • This result may also be achieved by other means including the use of a soft, compressible and stretchable leather, which can be cemented to an elastic sheet material held under tension.
  • an elastic, resiliently stretchable fabric insert 20 or the like is attached to the bottom of vamp 10 throughout the slitted portion thereof by stitching 34 around the margins of said portion, leaving the vamp 10 and insert 20 at least along its margins unconnected to any sole element throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe.
  • the vamp 10, as in FIGS; 1 through 5 is connected directly to midsole 14 by stitching 27 and 28 adjacent the toe and heel of the shoe, respectively, and may be stitched, along a center line, if desired, as with the shoe of FIGS. 1 through 5.
  • Outsole 16 may be connected to midsole 14 as by stitching 30.
  • FIGS. 8 and 9 differs from that of FIGS. 6 and 7 in that the elastic insert 20 thereof is extended for a substantial distance outwardly of stitching 34 attaching it to vamp 10 and is secured under tension adjacent the outer peripheral edge of outsole 16', leaving it free for a substantial portion of such distance so that the longitudinal margins 31, 33 of vamp 10 are free to move in a widthwise direction throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe.
  • a welt 'strip 36 may be utilized in conjunction with the outer, upper edge of sole 16', with the outer edge of tensioned elastic insert 20 lbeing retained therebetween by peripheral sole stitching 30.
  • the outer periphery of tensioned elastic insert 20 is provided with a downturned portion 41 having an inturned edge portion 42 along its lower edge.
  • Outsole 16" is attached to the bottom surfaces of said inturned free portion 42 as by cementing.
  • a felt platform midsole 44 is provided between the bottom of vamp and the top of outsole 16" for added comfort and support.
  • FIGS. ll through 13 is shown a shoe construction which differs from that of FIGS. l through 10 mainly by the addition of a tensioned cover element 50 of elastic material which is attached to the vamp 10 along its side as by stitching 52.
  • Cover element 50 extends downwardly for a substantial distance and is attached at its end to outsole 16"', either by having an inturned end portion 51 with its lower surface cemented to outsole 16 (FIG. 12) or simply by having its straight end portion overlapping the side of outsole 16" and cemented to its outer peripheral edge (FIG. 13).
  • a felt platform midsole 44 is interposed between outsole 16 and the bottom of vamp 10, with cover element 50 unconnected thereto so that it will be free to move relatively thereto.
  • portion of the vamp 10 extending continuously between stitching 52 beneath the foot may be omitted or substituted by a conventional sock lining, so that widthwise stretch may be provided with a conventional upper construction in which the upper extends continuously across above the foot between the lines of stitching 52.
  • a sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
  • an upper element extending along the peripheral edge of the sole element with at least a substantial portion of one of its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free transverse movement relatively thereto and adjustment means connected to at least said one free margin of said upper element along a substantial portion of the longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion and connected to said sole element at a substantial distance from the connection of said adjustment means to said upper element;
  • said adjustment means is adjustable to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • said adjustment means is an elastic sheet material.
  • said adjustable means is connected to saidupper element along a longitudinally extending line adjacent its one said margin and is connected to said sole element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from said line oflconnection to said upper element.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
  • transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe inturned toward one another above said sole element and free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free transverse movement relatively thereto;
  • adjustment means connected between said inturned marginal edges of said upper element along at least the forepart portion thereof between said toe portion and said backpart, said upper element being connected to said sole element at least at said toe portion and said backpart;
  • said adjustment means is adjustable to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • said adjustment means includes elastic sheet material and said elastic sheet material tensioned and extends outwardly toward the periphery of said sole element and is connected thereto along a longitudinal line spaced from the line of connection of said elastic sheet material to the margins of said upper element.
  • said sole element includes a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively non-stretchable outsole and said elastic sheet material extends downwardly around the outer edge of said midsole and is attached to said outsole.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
  • transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with at least one 'of its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto;
  • an elastic sheet material element connected to at least said one margin of said upper element along substantially the entire longitudinally ⁇ extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion, said elastic sheet material being connected to said S016 element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from the connection of said resiliently stretchable means to said upper element;
  • said resiliently stretchable means is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • said elastic sheet material ⁇ is connected to said one inturned margin and to said sole element.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and dening the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
  • ⁇ a transversely relati-vely non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately above said sole element and having an expandable and contractible bottom portion with longitudinally extending margins throughout the forepart of said shoe inturned toward one another immediately above said sole element free of direct connection to said sole element between the backpart and toe fportion of said shoe for lfree movement relatively thereto;
  • an elastic sheet material element connected to said inturned margins of said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and covering said botttom portion, said elastic sheet material element being connected to said sole element at least at said backpart and toe portion;
  • said elastic sheet material element is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to 4.provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • a tranversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
  • transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto and an elastic sheet material element connected to said margins of said upper element along substantially the entire side longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion extending downwardly around the outer edge of said sole element and connected to said sole element along a longitudinally extending line adjacent the bottom thereof spaced at a substantial distance from the connection of said elastic sheet material element to said upper element;
  • sair resiliently stretchable means is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and defining the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively nonstretchable outsole;
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately above said sole element and having an expanable and contractible bottom portion with longitudinally extending margins throughout the forepart of said shoe inturned toward one another immediately above said said sole element free of direct connection to said sole element between the backpart and toe portion of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto;
  • an elastic sheet material element connected to said inturned margins of said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and covering said bottom portion, said material extending downwardly around the outer edge of said midsole and being connected to outsole along a longitudinally extending line adajacent the edge of said outsole whereby said elastic sheet material element is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and defining the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively nonstretchable outsole;
  • a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously 'between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately a'bove said midsole;
  • a sheet material element connected to said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and extending downwardly around the outer edge of ment along substantially the entire longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion extending downwardly along said midsole free of connection thereto and connected to said outsole along a longitudinally extending line said midsole and lbeing connected to said outsole lo spaced at a substantial distance from the connection ,along a longitudinally extending line adjacent the of said resiliently stretchaible means to said upper edge of said outsole. element;
  • said sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross References Cited and extending longitudinally for -at least said entire 20 UNITED STATES PATENTS forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a llssgtal thlckness and a relatvely 2,302,580 11/1942 shields 36-11 a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element FOREIGN PATENTS extending down toward the peripheral edge of the 25 854,469 11/1960 Great Britain shoe with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct conl,539,762 5/1925 Mussabini.

Description

H E- ROSEN MOCCASIN sHoE Oct. 8, 1968 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Jan. 26, 1967 [FIG-1 IFIG. 3
ai" il H. E. ROSEN MOCCASIN SHOE Oct. 8, 1968 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Jan. 26. 1967 FIG. 7
All
' Oct. 8, 1968 H. E. ROSEN 3,404,468
MOCCASIN SHOE Filed Jan. 26, 1967 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 United States Patent O" 3,404,468 MOCCASIN SHOE Henri Elliott Rosen, 64 Long Wharf, Boston, Mass. 02110 Filed Jan. 26, 1967, Ser. No. 612,003 20 Claims. (Cl. 36-11) ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A moccasin-type footwear construction in which an elastically stretchable element is secured between the marginal edges of the upper so as to enable the upper to be stretched by the foot of the wearer to provide a comfortable lit for feet of varying widths. The marginal edges of the upper are free from direct attachment to the sole.
This invention relates to footwear and more particularly to footwear which may -be adjusted in a widthwise dimension to provide an increased cross-sectional area at least in its forepart for superior fit and comfort.
In conventional footwear construction of the type having relatively non-stretchable upper and sole materials, such as leather, it has always been considered desirable to produce footwear not only in many different lengths but also a number of widths for each length. At best, this is a compromise, since not only are a persons feet normally of dilferent sizes, but they also vary somewhat in their footwear size needs during the day and from day to day, particularly in widthwise dimensions as a result of a greater or lesser degree of swelling as a result of heat, exertion, humidity, and also as a result of changes in stocking thickness.
Accordingly, it is a major object of the present invention to provide a footwear construction having a high degree of widthwise adjustability, not only better to accommodate a Wide range of foot widths, but also comfortably to accommodate occasional variations in the elfective width of the foot of a wearer.
It is another object of the invention to provide a footwear construction of leather or other relatively nonstretchable materials which makes possible a product which is in external appearance similar to conventional footwear but which can have a higher degree of widthwise adjustability than the conventional product.
It is still another object of the invention to provide widthwise adjustablity in footwear having the appearance of moccasin construction, as the well-known loafer" types, without altering the external appearance substantially from that which is conventional.
The above and other objects are accomplished according to the present invention by providing, in footwear (or as I shall refer to it for the sake of simplicity, a shoe) having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and -a mid-portion extending under the ball of the foot and at least the forward portion of the arch of the foot forward of the heel:
(1) a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross to- Y wards the outer periphery of the shoe, and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe:
(2) a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down and preferably under the peripheral edge of the bottom of the foot and inturned between the foot and the mid-sole or sole element of the shoe, with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of said shoe preferably inturned toward one another between the foot and the sole element and free of direct connection to said sole element between the ice toe and backpart portions of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto; and
(3) adjustment means, preferably in the form of resiliently stretchable elastic sheet material, connected to at least one and preferably both of the margins of said upper element along substantially the entire longitudinally extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portions, said upper element being connected to said sole element directly, or through said resiliently stretchable material, or by being connected to at least one intermediate element such as a mid-sole which in turn is connected directly to said sole element, at least only at said heel and toe portions, yand said resiliently stretchable material preferably but not necessarily being connected to said sole or intermediate element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from the connection of said resiliently stretchable material to said upper element;
(4) whereby said resiliently stretchable material is transversely stretchable in a widthwise direction by the foot of the wearer to provide a variable transverse crosssectional area in at least part of the mid-portion of said shoe.
For the purpose of more fully explaining further objects and features of the invention, reference is now made to the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment of the invention, together with the accompanying drawings, wherein FIG. 1 is a top view of a shoe constructed according to the invention;
FIGS. 2, 3, 4, and 5 are cross-sectional views taken, respectively, on the lines 2 2, 3 3, 4--4 and 5-5 of FIGS. 1 through 3;
FIGS. 6 and 7 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 1 through 6;
FIGS. 8 and 9 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 6 and 7;
FIG. 10 is a transverse elevational view of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9;
FIGS. 11 and 12 are, respectively, sectional plan and transverse elevational views of another modification of Ithe shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9; and
FIG. 13 is a transverse elevational view of a modification of the shoe of FIGS. 11 and 12.
Referring to the drawings, the shoe construction of the present invention will be described as embodied in a leather shoe similar in appearance to the well-known loafer of the genuine moccasin type, having separate mid and outer soles and a heel. The shoe upper element includes two main pieces generally called the vamp 10 and the plug 12, these two pieces usually being joined by stitching 11 to form a seam around the upper edge of the forepart of the shoe. The midsole 14 is attached to the bottom of the vamp 10, and the outsole 16 to the bottom of the midsole 14. A heel 18 is attached to the rear or heel portion of the outsole 16. Other pieces may be used, such as cuffs, backstays, trim, sock-linings, etc. The inner surface of the vamp 10 may be skived at its outer edge in a usual fashion 'and the outer U-shaped edge of the plug 12 also may be skived, at least where it is expected to be joined to the vamp so that a neat seam may be produced.
According to one usual practice in shoe-making, the heel portion of the vamp 10 is completed as by a backseam or in any other suitable fashion and an edge trim or cuff 13 is applied around that portion of the vamp 10 which will become the sides and back of the ankle opening. This leaves the entire forward portion of the outer edge of the vamp free and exposed. This outer edge is secured to the outer U-shaped edge of the plug 12 to complete the forepart of the shoe. It is to be noted that, in genuine moccasin construction, the forward edge of the vamp is considerably longer than the plug edge to be joined to it. At the start, the back parts `are usually stitched together and the cuff added. Then the edge of the forward part of the vamp is preferably progressively stitched and shortened to match the plug edge by sewing and gathering by hand or otherwise to produce the relatively transversely non-stretchable shoe upper element which overlies the mid-sole 14 and the outsole 16, and extends continuously across it in the forepart of the shoe above, around and below the wearers foot.
The present invention provides a shoe which in its external appearance can be made similar to the genuine moccasin loafer type of shoe construction above described, but adds further unique constructional features which enable it to be stretched freely in a widthwise direction in the forepart of the shoe by the foot of a wearer for superior fit and comfort.
In order to accomplish this, the bottom of the usual genuine moccasin one-piece vamp portion of the shoe upper element, which conventionally extends transversely across the bottom of the forepart of the shoe and overlies the sole, is provided with a longitudinally and transversely extending opening or an equivalent area having rows of staggered longitudinal slits or other means providing longitudinal margins of the vamp which are free to move transversely. As shown in FIGS. 1 through 5, the vamp bottom opening provides inwardly turned transversely extending toe and heel margins 22, 23, respectively, and generally longitudinally extending side margins 24, 2S, respectively. These margins immediately overlie the mid-sole 14 and the side margins 24, 25 extend along the mid-sole throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe between the forward edge 19 of heel 18 and the toe portion of the shoe. The shoes of FIGS. 6 through 13 effectively have similar free margins yaround their bottom slitted vamp area.
Convention'ally, the shoe vamp 10, whether of the genuine moccasin or other type, is attached directly, along its inturned surfaces near the edge of the sole, to either mid-sole or sole elements. However, according to the present invention, the longitudinal margins of the vamp at least in the forepart are attached to a resiliently stretchable element leaving the shoe upper free to stretch in a widthwise direction in that area. The vamp is connected to the sole element or to a mid-sole element which is subsequently attached to the sole element, either directly or through the resiliently stretchable element at least at the backpart and toe portion of the shoe, leaving the vamp free to be stretched in a widthwise direction throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe between its toe and backpart areas of attachment. This is not to say that the resilienly stretchable element may not be itself connected to the sole or mid-sole element along a longitudinally extending line or lines, but it must be recognized that any such connection must be transversely spaced from the line of connection to the vamp margin for a sufcient distance to allow a substantial degree of widthwise stretch. A distance of about 1/2 inch or somewhat less at the maximum shoe widthwise dimension has been found to be satisfactory. It has also been found satisfactory to connect the upper directly to the mid-sole or sole elements at the toe and backpart portions only, leaving the rest of the upper free to stretch in a widthwise direction and also free to be lifted away from the sole element so that the user may more easily A free the shoe of pebbles or other foreign matter that may become trapped between sole and upper.
With the loafer type shoe construction herein described in connection with FIGS. 1 through 5 hereof as a specific embodiment of the invention, the above requirements are 4met by providing the bottom vamp opening with an elastic, resiliently stretchable insert which is preferably of elastic fabric or other elastic sheet material, and preferably sewn about its periphery to the abutting maggins 22, 23, 24 and 25 of the opening of the vamp 10 as by stitching 26. In order that the elastic fabric insert 20 may be resiliently stretched by the foot of a wearer in accordance with the invention, it is left unconnected to mid-sole 14 `along its longitudinal margins. The vamp 10 is connected at its toe and backpart portions by stitching 27 and 28 respectively, here shown as sewn through the bottom of vamp 10 to mid-sole 14. Preferably, it is also connected to the mid-sole 14 by one or more lines of stitching 29 spaced a substantial distance inwardly from the lines of stitching 24 and 25, preferably generally midway therebetween in order to provide a high degree of stretch. It is contemplated however, that such central line of stitching 29 may be omitted with vamp 10 and its elastic insert 20 being connected to midsole 14 only at its toe and backpart portions. With either of these constructions, however, the elastic fabric 20 in theregion between the lines of stitching attaching it to the Imid-sole 14 and to the margin of the vamp 10, is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the forepart of the shoe.
To nish the shoe, outsole 16 is attached in the conventional manner to mid-sole 14 as by stitching 30 extending around the peripheral margin thereof, or by cementing mid-sole 14 and outsole 16 together, leaving the longitudinally extending margins 24, 25 of vamp 10 free to be stretched in a widthwise direction in accordance with the invention.
The vamp construction of the shoes of FIGS. 6 through 13 differs from that of FIGS. 1 through 5 mainly in that the bottom of vamp 10 is provided over a substantial portion of its bottom area in the forepart of the shoe with a plurality of longitudinally extending short slits 32 arranged in staggered rows Within the vamp margins, including longitudinal margins 31, 33 of such area portion. This result may also be achieved by other means including the use of a soft, compressible and stretchable leather, which can be cemented to an elastic sheet material held under tension. These constructions permit free widthwise expansion of the vamp within said area so that the longitudinal margins thereof are free to move relatively to any portion of said vamp substantially spaced therefrom within said area.
In FIGS. 6 and 7, an elastic, resiliently stretchable fabric insert 20 or the like is attached to the bottom of vamp 10 throughout the slitted portion thereof by stitching 34 around the margins of said portion, leaving the vamp 10 and insert 20 at least along its margins unconnected to any sole element throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe. The vamp 10, as in FIGS; 1 through 5, is connected directly to midsole 14 by stitching 27 and 28 adjacent the toe and heel of the shoe, respectively, and may be stitched, along a center line, if desired, as with the shoe of FIGS. 1 through 5. Outsole 16 may be connected to midsole 14 as by stitching 30.
The shoe of FIGS. 8 and 9 differs from that of FIGS. 6 and 7 in that the elastic insert 20 thereof is extended for a substantial distance outwardly of stitching 34 attaching it to vamp 10 and is secured under tension adjacent the outer peripheral edge of outsole 16', leaving it free for a substantial portion of such distance so that the longitudinal margins 31, 33 of vamp 10 are free to move in a widthwise direction throughout the major portion of the forepart of the shoe. For appearance, a welt 'strip 36 may be utilized in conjunction with the outer, upper edge of sole 16', with the outer edge of tensioned elastic insert 20 lbeing retained therebetween by peripheral sole stitching 30.
The outward extension of the elastic insert from its line of attachment to the vamp for a substantial distance to its line of attachment to the sole element adjacent the periphery thereof has the added advantage of limiting the trapping of pebbles or other foreign matter between sole and upper.
In the modification of FIG. 10, the outer periphery of tensioned elastic insert 20 is provided with a downturned portion 41 having an inturned edge portion 42 along its lower edge. Outsole 16" is attached to the bottom surfaces of said inturned free portion 42 as by cementing. A felt platform midsole 44 is provided between the bottom of vamp and the top of outsole 16" for added comfort and support. With this arrangement, as compared with that of FIGS. 8 and 9, additional distance is provided between the line of attachment of the elastic insert to the vamp and its line of attachment to the sole element adjacent the bottom thereof at its inturned edge 42, the downturned portion 41 thereof not being attached to sole 16". This provides an added degree of widthwise stretch to the upper.
In FIGS. ll through 13 is shown a shoe construction which differs from that of FIGS. l through 10 mainly by the addition of a tensioned cover element 50 of elastic material which is attached to the vamp 10 along its side as by stitching 52. Cover element 50 extends downwardly for a substantial distance and is attached at its end to outsole 16"', either by having an inturned end portion 51 with its lower surface cemented to outsole 16 (FIG. 12) or simply by having its straight end portion overlapping the side of outsole 16" and cemented to its outer peripheral edge (FIG. 13). In either case, a felt platform midsole 44 is interposed between outsole 16 and the bottom of vamp 10, with cover element 50 unconnected thereto so that it will be free to move relatively thereto. It is also contemplated that the portion of the vamp 10 extending continuously between stitching 52 beneath the foot may be omitted or substituted by a conventional sock lining, so that widthwise stretch may be provided with a conventional upper construction in which the upper extends continuously across above the foot between the lines of stitching 52.
Although the shoe construction of the invention has been described with reference to a loafer with a moccasintype seam similar to that on footwear conventionally referred to as hand-sewns, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that it may be used in other types of shoes capable of incorporating a resilient element at each side of the shoe extending from the side margins of the shoe upper for a substantial distance to its connection to the shoe sole so as to be stretchable by the foot of a wearer. Such modifications are deemed to be within the spirit of the present invention and the scope of the appended claims.
What is claimed is:
1. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;
a sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
an upper element extending along the peripheral edge of the sole element with at least a substantial portion of one of its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free transverse movement relatively thereto and adjustment means connected to at least said one free margin of said upper element along a substantial portion of the longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion and connected to said sole element at a substantial distance from the connection of said adjustment means to said upper element;
whereby said adjustment means is adjustable to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
2. In a shoe as claimed in claim 1 wherein said adjustment means is an elastic sheet material.
3. In a shoe as claimed in claim 1 wherein said adjustable means is connected to saidupper element along a longitudinally extending line adjacent its one said margin and is connected to said sole element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from said line oflconnection to said upper element.
4. In a shoe as claimed in claim 1 wherein said margins of said upper element are inturned toward one another and said adjustment means is connected between said margins providing a resiliently expandable vamp portion immediately overlying said sole.
5. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe inturned toward one another above said sole element and free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free transverse movement relatively thereto;
adjustment means connected between said inturned marginal edges of said upper element along at least the forepart portion thereof between said toe portion and said backpart, said upper element being connected to said sole element at least at said toe portion and said backpart;
whereby said adjustment means is adjustable to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
6. In a shoe as claimed in claim 5 wherein said adjustment means includes elastic sheet material and said elastic sheet material tensioned and extends outwardly toward the periphery of said sole element and is connected thereto along a longitudinal line spaced from the line of connection of said elastic sheet material to the margins of said upper element.
7. In a shoe as claimed in claim 6 wherein said elastic sheet material extends downwardly around the outer edge of said sole element and is attached thereto adjacent the bottom thereof.
8. In a shoe as claimed in claim 6 wherein said sole element includes a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively non-stretchable outsole and said elastic sheet material extends downwardly around the outer edge of said midsole and is attached to said outsole.
9. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with at least one 'of its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto;
an elastic sheet material element connected to at least said one margin of said upper element along substantially the entire longitudinally `extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion, said elastic sheet material being connected to said S016 element along a longitudinally extending line spaced a substantial distance from the connection of said resiliently stretchable means to said upper element;
whereby said resiliently stretchable means is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
10. In a shoe as claimed in claim 9 wherein said elastic sheet material is tensioned and extends down from said upper element along one said margin to said sole element adjacent the periphery thereof.
11. In a shoe as claimed in claim 9 wherein said upper element has inturned margins, and
said elastic sheet material `is connected to said one inturned margin and to said sole element.
12. In ia shoe as claimed in claim 11 wherein said elastic sheet material extends inwardly of said linturned margin.
13. In -a shoe as claimed in claim 12 .wherein said elastic sheet material is tensioned and extends out- 'wardly of said inturned margin and is connected to said sole element adjacent the periphery thereof.
14. In a shoe with a moccasin type U-shaped vamp seam, having a backpar-t and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the -foot and at least the forward portion of the arch of the foot forward of the heel;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and dening the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
`a transversely relati-vely non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately above said sole element and having an expandable and contractible bottom portion with longitudinally extending margins throughout the forepart of said shoe inturned toward one another immediately above said sole element free of direct connection to said sole element between the backpart and toe fportion of said shoe for lfree movement relatively thereto;
an elastic sheet material element connected to said inturned margins of said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and covering said botttom portion, said elastic sheet material element being connected to said sole element at least at said backpart and toe portion;
whereby said elastic sheet material element is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to 4.provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
15. In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot forward of the heel;
a tranversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element extending down toward the peripheral edge of the sole element with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct connection to said sole element between the toe portion and said backpart of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto and an elastic sheet material element connected to said margins of said upper element along substantially the entire side longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion extending downwardly around the outer edge of said sole element and connected to said sole element along a longitudinally extending line adjacent the bottom thereof spaced at a substantial distance from the connection of said elastic sheet material element to said upper element;
whereby sair resiliently stretchable means is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
16. In a shoe as claimed in claim 15 wherein said elastic sheet material element extends downwardly around at least a portion of said sole element and is attached adjacent the bottom portion thereof.
17. In a shoe with a moccasin type U-shaped vamp seam, having a backpart and a forepart including a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the ball of the foot and at least the forward portion of the arch of the foot forward of the heel;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and defining the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively nonstretchable outsole;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately above said sole element and having an expanable and contractible bottom portion with longitudinally extending margins throughout the forepart of said shoe inturned toward one another immediately above said said sole element free of direct connection to said sole element between the backpart and toe portion of said shoe for free movement relatively thereto;
an elastic sheet material element connected to said inturned margins of said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and covering said bottom portion, said material extending downwardly around the outer edge of said midsole and being connected to outsole along a longitudinally extending line adajacent the edge of said outsole whereby said elastic sheet material element is stretchable by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased transverse cross-sectional area throughout the mid portion of said shoe.
18. In a shoe as claimed in claim 17 wherein said elastic sheet material element is interposed between said midsole and said outsole.
19. In a shoe with -a moccasin type U-shaped vamp seam, having a backpart and a Kforepart including a toe portion and a mid poriton beneath the ball of the foot and at least the forward portion of the arch of the foot forward of the heel;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross and defining the outer periphery of the shoe and extending longitudinally for at least said entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a soft midsole of substantial thickness and a relatively nonstretchable outsole;
a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element including a plug and a vamp, said plug overlying said sole element and extending continuously thereacross spaced upwardly therefrom and said vamp extending from said plug generally continuously 'between the outer peripheral edges of the shoe immediately a'bove said midsole;
a sheet material element connected to said vamp along at least the forepart of the longitudinal extending portion thereof between said heel and toe portion and extending downwardly around the outer edge of ment along substantially the entire longitudinally extending portion thereof between said backpart and toe portion extending downwardly along said midsole free of connection thereto and connected to said outsole along a longitudinally extending line said midsole and lbeing connected to said outsole lo spaced at a substantial distance from the connection ,along a longitudinally extending line adjacent the of said resiliently stretchaible means to said upper edge of said outsole. element;
20. :In a shoe having a backpart and a forepart includwhereby said resiliently stretchable means is stretching a toe portion and a mid portion beneath the =ball of 15 able by the foot of a wearer to provide an increased the foot forward of the heel; transverse cross-sectional Iarea throughout the mid a transversely relatively non-stretchable sole element portion of said shoe.
underlying at least the entire forepart of the shoe, said sole element extending continuously thereacross References Cited and extending longitudinally for -at least said entire 20 UNITED STATES PATENTS forepart of the shoe, said sole element including a llssgtal thlckness and a relatvely 2,302,580 11/1942 shields 36-11 a transversely relatively non-stretchable upper element FOREIGN PATENTS extending down toward the peripheral edge of the 25 854,469 11/1960 Great Britain shoe with its longitudinally extending margins at least in the forepart of the shoe free of direct conl,539,762 5/1925 Mussabini.
PATRICK D. LAWSON, Primary Examiner.
US612003A 1967-01-26 1967-01-26 Moccasin shoe Expired - Lifetime US3404468A (en)

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US612003A US3404468A (en) 1967-01-26 1967-01-26 Moccasin shoe
GB0269/68A GB1212063A (en) 1967-01-26 1968-01-09 Improvements in or relating to articles of footwear
FR1574691D FR1574691A (en) 1967-01-26 1968-01-25
DE19681685710 DE1685710A1 (en) 1967-01-26 1968-01-26 Footwear

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CN105725363A (en) * 2011-02-04 2016-07-06 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Article of Footwear with Decoupled Upper
CN103491816A (en) * 2011-02-04 2014-01-01 耐克国际有限公司 Article of footwear with decoupled upper
CN105725363B (en) * 2011-02-04 2018-11-09 耐克创新有限合伙公司 Article of footwear with separation upper of a shoe
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WO2012106504A3 (en) * 2011-02-04 2013-02-28 Nike International Ltd. Article of footwear with decoupled upper
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE1685710A1 (en) 1971-08-05
FR1574691A (en) 1969-07-18
GB1212063A (en) 1970-11-11

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