US4954282A - Acyl isethionate skin cleansing compositions - Google Patents

Acyl isethionate skin cleansing compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
US4954282A
US4954282A US07/340,185 US34018589A US4954282A US 4954282 A US4954282 A US 4954282A US 34018589 A US34018589 A US 34018589A US 4954282 A US4954282 A US 4954282A
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United States
Prior art keywords
isethionate
sodium
acyl
sub
dove
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Expired - Lifetime
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US07/340,185
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Karla J. Rys
Alan P. Greene
Frederick S. Osmer
Joseph J. Podgorsky
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Chesebrough Ponds Inc
Conopco Inc
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Lever Brothers Co
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Priority to US07/340,185 priority Critical patent/US4954282A/en
Assigned to LEVER BROTHERS COMPANY reassignment LEVER BROTHERS COMPANY ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST. Assignors: GREENE, ALAN P., OSMER, FREDERICK S., RYS, KARLA J.
Assigned to LEVER BROTHERS COMPANY reassignment LEVER BROTHERS COMPANY ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST. Assignors: PODGORSKY, JOSEPH J.
Priority to ES90906326T priority patent/ES2089015T3/en
Priority to AU55274/90A priority patent/AU631876B2/en
Priority to PCT/GB1990/000583 priority patent/WO1990012860A1/en
Priority to JP2506352A priority patent/JPH0662399B2/en
Priority to CA002014831A priority patent/CA2014831C/en
Priority to EP90906326A priority patent/EP0469029B1/en
Priority to BR909007305A priority patent/BR9007305A/en
Priority to DE69027600T priority patent/DE69027600T2/en
Priority to ZA902963A priority patent/ZA902963B/en
Assigned to CONOPCO, INC. reassignment CONOPCO, INC. MERGER (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). EFFECTIVE ON 09/06/1989 NEW YORK Assignors: CHESEBROUGH-PONDS INC., A CORP. OF NY. (CHANGED TO), CONOPCO, INC., A CORP. OF ME. (MERGED INTO)
Assigned to CHESEBROUGH-POND'S INC., A CORP. OF NY. reassignment CHESEBROUGH-POND'S INC., A CORP. OF NY. MERGER (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: CONOPCO, INC., A CORP. OF ME.
Assigned to CONOPCO, INC. reassignment CONOPCO, INC. CHANGE OF NAME (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). EFFECTIVE ON 09/06/1989 Assignors: LEVER BROTHERS COMPANY, A CORP. OF ME.
Publication of US4954282A publication Critical patent/US4954282A/en
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/126—Acylisethionates
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/37—Mixtures of compounds all of which are anionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/04—Carboxylic acids or salts thereof
    • C11D1/10—Amino carboxylic acids; Imino carboxylic acids; Fatty acid condensates thereof
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/123—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof derived from carboxylic acids, e.g. sulfosuccinates
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/28—Sulfonation products derived from fatty acids or their derivatives, e.g. esters, amides
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/02—Anionic compounds
    • C11D1/12—Sulfonic acids or sulfuric acid esters; Salts thereof
    • C11D1/29—Sulfates of polyoxyalkylene ethers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11D—DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D1/00—Detergent compositions based essentially on surface-active compounds; Use of these compounds as a detergent
    • C11D1/88—Ampholytes; Electroneutral compounds
    • C11D1/90—Betaines

Definitions

  • the invention relates to skin cleansing compositions containing major amounts of acyl isethionates and exhibiting improved skin mildness.
  • soap has been utilized as a skin cleanser. Soap is, however, a very harsh chemical. Irritated and cracked skin result from use of soap, especially in colder climates. Of course, there are certain benefits from soap including that of low cost, easy manufacture into bars, and good lathering qualities.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 4,007,125 suggests that greater than 75% of the isethionate ester be in the C 12 -C 18 acyl range.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 3,879,309 notes that superior lathering may be achieved by use of lower chain length fatty residues.
  • the patent suggests a mixture of isethionate esters with a fatty acyl distribution of about 28-37% C 10 , about 18-24% C 12 , about 16-21% C 14 , about 9-20% C 16 , and about 10.17% C 18 chain lengths.
  • U.S. Pat. No. 4,206,069 (Borrello) obtains transparent toilet bars by combining surfactants among which are the oleic ester of isethionic acid and the C 8 -C 24 alkyl ether sulfates having 1-20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the present invention seeks compositions with even better skin mildness than those aforementioned while also improving upon lather, mush and processing properties.
  • a skin cleansing composition comprising:
  • esters of isethionic acid salts said esters being C 16 -C 18 acyl isethionates and having no more than 25% C 14 or lower acyl groups;
  • weight ratio of said acyl esters to co-active ranges from about 20:1 to about 1:1, and soap is present in an amount from 0 to 10% by weight of the composition.
  • C 16 -C 18 isethionate ester salts can act as solid structurants entrapping a liquid co-active. Combination of the two surfactant types provides a mixture that is both better lathering and also milder than either material alone.
  • the isethionate ester salts employed herein are those of higher chain length fatty acids, those in the range of C 16 -C 18 acyl, preferably those containing greater than 75% C 16 -C 18 acyl residues. There should be avoided any substantial amount of the lower fatty acid residues; for instance, there should be no more than about 25% C 14 or lower acyl groups, preferably no more than 10% optimally no more than 5%. Isethionate esters of the tallow C 16 -C 18 variety are much milder than those of the C 12 -C 14 coco variety. Use of C 16 -C 18 acyl isethionate salts does, however, present a problem with lathering properties. This problem may be ameliorated by inclusion of one or more appropriate co-actives.
  • anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants may be employed as the co-active.
  • suitable anionic co-actives are the alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, taurates and combinations thereof.
  • suitable amphoteric co-actives may be included alkylbetaines, amidopropyl betaines, amidopropyl sultaines and combinations thereof.
  • the relative amounts of modified isethionate esters to co-actives will range in the weight ratio of about 20:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 5:1 to about 2:1, optimally about 3:1.
  • Alkyl ether sulfates of the present invention will be of the general formula R-O(CH 2 CH 2 ) n OSO 3 -- M + wherein R ranges from C 8 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 15 alkyl, n is an integer from 9 to 40, preferably from 10 to 20, optimally about 12, and M + is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial co-actives of this variety are listed in the Table below.
  • Alkyl ether sulfonates may also be employed for the present invention. Illustrative of this category is a commercial product known as Avenel S-150 commonly known as a sodium C 12 -C 15 Pareth-15 sulfonate.
  • Another co-active type suitable for use in the present invention is that of the sulfosuccinates.
  • This category is best represented by the monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula: RO 2 CCH 2 CH(SO 3 -- Na + )COO -- M + ; and amido-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula: RCONHCH 2 CH 2 O 2 CCH 2 CH(SO 3 --M + )COO -- M + ; wherein R ranges from C 8 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 15 alkyl and M + is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation.
  • Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
  • Sarcosinates may also be useful in the present invention as a co-active. This category is indicated by the general formula RCON(CH 3 )CH 2 CO 2 13 M + , wherein R ranges from C 8 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 15 alkyl and M + is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
  • Taurates may also be employed in the present invention as co-actives. These materials are generally identified by the formula RCONR'CH 2 CH 2 SO 3 -- M + , wherein R ranges from C 8 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 15 alkyl, R' ranges from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, and M + is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
  • amphoterics there are three general categories suitable for the present invention. These include alkylbetaines of the formula RN + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 CO 2 - M + , amidopropylbetaines of the formula RCONHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N + (CH 3 )2CH 2 C 02 -M+, and amidopropyl sultaines of the formula RCONHCH 2 CH 2 N+(CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 SO 3 -- M + , wherein R ranges from C 8 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 12 -C 15 alkyl, and M is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are found in the Table below.
  • liquid co-actives Within the broad category of liquid co-actives, the most effective are the alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates and sulfosuccinates.
  • soap is a very harsh chemical and when present in the compositions of this invention should be at a level no higher than 10%, preferably less than 5%, and advantageously totally absent.
  • Free fatty acids of 8-22 carbon atoms are desirably incorporated within the compositions of the present invention. Some of these fatty acids are present to operate as superfatting agents and others as skin feel and creaminess enhancers.
  • Superfatting agents enhance lathering properties and may be selected from fatty acids of carbon atoms numbering 8-18, preferably 10-16, in an amount up to 40% by weight of the composition. Skin feel and creaminess enhancers, the most important of which is stearic acid, are also desirably present in these compositions.
  • compositions may be needed with these compositions.
  • the amount of these chemicals and adjuncts may range from about 1% to about 40% by weight of the total composition.
  • anti-wear agents such as polycarboxylate polymers, thickeners such as Polymer JR® and natural gums, humectants such as glycerine, germicides, perfumes, colorants, pigments such as titanium dioxide, electrolytes, and water.
  • This test is employed to screen formulations for the more extensive Flex Wash.
  • a Patch Test up to six formulations can be tested at the same time on each subject, using occluded patches which remain on the forearm for 24 hours. Test sites are evaluated at 4 and 24 hours following the removal of the patches for erythema and dryness. Evaluation scores range from 0 for no response to 20 (moderate) with five point increments.
  • the Flex Wash procedure consists of four daily 60 second washes of the antecubital fossa (flex area of elbow). This method was designed to produce erythema quickly. Erythermal response varies only slightly with temperature and humidity fluctuations making the protocol suitable for year round testing.
  • Panelist flex areas must be free of any skin condition (eczema, dryness, irritation, cuts or abrasions).
  • Any skin condition eczema, dryness, irritation, cuts or abrasions.
  • An antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs (more than 8 per week) or topical, oral or injectable cortisone on a regular basis was excluded from the study.
  • the panel was divided into two subgroups which were balanced for left handedness. Group I was assigned composition "A" for the left flex and "B" for the right flex. Group II reversed the order.
  • the panelist was instructed to moisten the left flex area.
  • Sponge and test compositions formulated as toilet bars were dampened with tap water (100 ppm calcium/magnesium ions).
  • the sponge was then stroked over the test bar 10 times by the evaluator.
  • the "dosed" sponge was placed in panelist's right hand.
  • Panelist then washed the left flex area for exactly 60 seconds (approximately 120 strokes). Thereupon, the flex was rinsed and patted dry. This washing procedure was repeated on the right arm with the appropriate composition. Washing by this procedure was repeated 4 times daily for 5 consecutive days or a total of 19 washes. Treatment times were scheduled prior to washing and 4 hours after the third daily wash.
  • the final grading is the sum total of grade scores for 20 assessments per panelist averaged over the scores from all panelists.
  • the average score could range from 0 to 38; the lower value indicating absolutely no skin irritation while the latter being severe. In practice, scores generally range from 15 to 30.
  • Mush - Pre-weighed bars were immersed in water for 2 hours. The increase in weight was noted. Mush was removed and the remainder of the bar was dried. After reweighing, mush was calculated as the weight of mush per cm 2 of surface mushed. Lower values indicated better performance.
  • Example 1 (D) A number of co-actives were evaluated in the base formulation of Example 1 (D) wherein the isethionate ester was that of stearoyl.
  • Tables IV-VI outline the compositions and Patch Test Scores.
  • This Example records the lather properties of bars having various co-actives in combinations with stearoyl isethionate. Bar formulations are listed in Table IV-VI.
  • the Lather Volume Measurement test involved rotating the experimental bars 15 half turns in a basin containing 105° F. water. The bar was then set aside and the resulting lather was worked for 10 seconds. A measuring funnel was then placed over the hands and both were lowered into a sink filled with water to the 0 ml mark on the measuring funnel. When the hands were fully immersed, they were removed from beneath the funnel. The funnel was then lowered to the bottom of the sink and lather volume was measured.

Abstract

A skin cleansing composition is provided that includes a combination of C16 -C18 acyl isethionate ester salts having no more than 25% C14 or lower acyl groups with at least one co-active surfactant. The weight ratio of acyl isethionate to co-active will range from about 20:1 to about 1:1. Soap is present in an amount no higher than 10% by weight of the composition.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention
The invention relates to skin cleansing compositions containing major amounts of acyl isethionates and exhibiting improved skin mildness. 2. The Prior Art
Traditionally, soap has been utilized as a skin cleanser. Soap is, however, a very harsh chemical. Irritated and cracked skin result from use of soap, especially in colder climates. Of course, there are certain benefits from soap including that of low cost, easy manufacture into bars, and good lathering qualities.
There has been much commercial activity to replace soaps with milder surfactants. Particularly successful has been the introduction of syndet mild toilet bars, especially those based on sodium cocoyl isethionates. Patents relating to this technology include U.S. Pat No. 2,894,912 (Geitz) disclosing a detergent bar containing 30-70% C6 -C18 acyl esters of isethionic acid, a suds-boosting detergent salt such as 2-10% alkyl sulfate and 2.5-25% soap.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,007,125 (Prince) suggests that greater than 75% of the isethionate ester be in the C12 -C18 acyl range. the other hand, U.S. Pat. No. 3,879,309 (Gatti et al.) notes that superior lathering may be achieved by use of lower chain length fatty residues. The patent suggests a mixture of isethionate esters with a fatty acyl distribution of about 28-37% C10, about 18-24% C12, about 16-21% C14, about 9-20% C16, and about 10.17% C18 chain lengths.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,206,069 (Borrello) obtains transparent toilet bars by combining surfactants among which are the oleic ester of isethionic acid and the C8 -C24 alkyl ether sulfates having 1-20 ethylene oxide units.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,335,025 (Barker et al.) reports combinations of 4-20% C10 -C16 acyl isethionate with, among others, 18-35% C8 -C16 alkyl sulfosuccinate.
The present invention seeks compositions with even better skin mildness than those aforementioned while also improving upon lather, mush and processing properties.
Thus, it is an object of this invention to provide a skin cleansing composition based upon acyl isethionates as the main actives but substantially milder to the skin than such previously known compositions.
These and other objects of the invention will become more readily apparent through the following summary and detailed description.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A skin cleansing composition is provided comprising:
(i) acyl esters of isethionic acid salts, said esters being C16 -C18 acyl isethionates and having no more than 25% C14 or lower acyl groups; and
(ii) at least one co-active surfactant;
wherein the weight ratio of said acyl esters to co-active ranges from about 20:1 to about 1:1, and soap is present in an amount from 0 to 10% by weight of the composition.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Manipulation of the fatty chain length distribution in isethionate ester salts has been found to achieve significant changes in physical properties of the composition. What the present invention has found is that C16 -C18 isethionate ester salts can act as solid structurants entrapping a liquid co-active. Combination of the two surfactant types provides a mixture that is both better lathering and also milder than either material alone.
The isethionate ester salts employed herein are those of higher chain length fatty acids, those in the range of C16 -C18 acyl, preferably those containing greater than 75% C16 -C18 acyl residues. There should be avoided any substantial amount of the lower fatty acid residues; for instance, there should be no more than about 25% C14 or lower acyl groups, preferably no more than 10% optimally no more than 5%. Isethionate esters of the tallow C16 -C18 variety are much milder than those of the C12 -C14 coco variety. Use of C16 -C18 acyl isethionate salts does, however, present a problem with lathering properties. This problem may be ameliorated by inclusion of one or more appropriate co-actives.
A number of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants may be employed as the co-active. Among suitable anionic co-actives are the alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, taurates and combinations thereof. Among suitable amphoteric co-actives may be included alkylbetaines, amidopropyl betaines, amidopropyl sultaines and combinations thereof.
The relative amounts of modified isethionate esters to co-actives will range in the weight ratio of about 20:1 to about 1:1, preferably from about 5:1 to about 2:1, optimally about 3:1.
Alkyl ether sulfates of the present invention will be of the general formula R-O(CH2 CH2)n OSO3 -- M+ wherein R ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, preferably C12 -C15 alkyl, n is an integer from 9 to 40, preferably from 10 to 20, optimally about 12, and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial co-actives of this variety are listed in the Table below.
______________________________________                                    
                         Physical                                         
Trademark   Chemical Name                                                 
                         Form     Manufacturer                            
______________________________________                                    
Alkasurf ES-60                                                            
            Sodium Laureth                                                
                         Paste    Alkaril                                 
            Sulfate                                                       
Cycloryl TD TEA Laureth  Paste    Cyclo                                   
            Sulfate                                                       
Standapol 125-E                                                           
            Sodium Laureth-                                               
                         Liquid   Henkel                                  
            12 Sulfate                                                    
Cedepal TD407MF                                                           
            Sodium Trideceth                                              
                         Paste    Miranol                                 
            Sulfate                                                       
______________________________________
Alkyl ether sulfonates may also be employed for the present invention. Illustrative of this category is a commercial product known as Avenel S-150 commonly known as a sodium C12 -C15 Pareth-15 sulfonate.
Another co-active type suitable for use in the present invention is that of the sulfosuccinates. This category is best represented by the monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula: RO2 CCH2 CH(SO3 -- Na+)COO-- M+ ; and amido-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula: RCONHCH2 CH2 O2 CCH2 CH(SO3 --M +)COO-- M+ ; wherein R ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, preferably C12 -C15 alkyl and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
______________________________________                                    
                         Physical                                         
Trademark                                                                 
         Chemical Name   Form     Manufacturer                            
______________________________________                                    
Emcol 4400-1                                                              
         Disodium Lauryl Solid    Witco                                   
         Sulfosuccinate                                                   
Schercopol                                                                
         Disodium Cocoamido                                               
                         Liquid   Scher                                   
CMSNa    MEA Sulfosuccinate                                               
Emcol 4100M                                                               
         Disodium Myristamido                                             
                         Paste    Witco                                   
         MEA Sulfosuccinate                                               
Schercopol                                                                
         Disodium Oleamido                                                
                         Liquid   Scher                                   
         MEA                                                              
Varsulf S1333                                                             
         Disodium Ricinoleamido                                           
                         Solid    Sherex                                  
         MEA Sulfosuccinate                                               
______________________________________
Sarcosinates may also be useful in the present invention as a co-active. This category is indicated by the general formula RCON(CH3)CH2 CO2 13 M+, wherein R ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, preferably C12 -C15 alkyl and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
______________________________________                                    
                         Physical                                         
Trademark   Chemical Name                                                 
                         Form     Manufacturer                            
______________________________________                                    
Hamposyl L-95                                                             
            Sodium Lauroyl                                                
                         Solid    W. R. Grace                             
            Sarcosinate                                                   
Hamposyl TOC-30                                                           
            TEA Cocoyl   Liquid   W. R. Grace                             
            Sarcosinate                                                   
______________________________________
Taurates may also be employed in the present invention as co-actives. These materials are generally identified by the formula RCONR'CH2 CH2 SO3 -- M+, wherein R ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, preferably C12 -C15 alkyl, R' ranges from C1 -C4 alkyl, and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below.
______________________________________                                    
                       Physical                                           
Trademark Chemical Name                                                   
                       Form      Manufacturer                             
______________________________________                                    
Igepon TC 42                                                              
          Sodium Methyl                                                   
                       Paste     GAF                                      
          Cocoyl Taurate                                                  
Igepon T-77                                                               
          Sodium Methyl                                                   
                       Paste     GAF                                      
          Oleoyl Taurate                                                  
______________________________________
Within the category of amphoterics there are three general categories suitable for the present invention. These include alkylbetaines of the formula RN+ (CH3)2 CH2 CO2 - M+, amidopropylbetaines of the formula RCONHCH2 CH2 CH2 N+ (CH3)2CH2 C02 -M+, and amidopropyl sultaines of the formula RCONHCH2 CH2 N+(CH3)2 CH2 SO3 -- M+, wherein R ranges from C8 -C20 alkyl, preferably C12 -C15 alkyl, and M is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are found in the Table below.
______________________________________                                    
                         Physical                                         
Trademark  Chemical Name Form     Manufacturer                            
______________________________________                                    
Lonzaine C Cocamidopropyl                                                 
                         Liquid   Lonza                                   
           Betaine                                                        
Lonzaine CS                                                               
           Cocamidopropyl                                                 
                         Liquid   Lonza                                   
           Hydroxysultaine                                                
Lonzaine 12C                                                              
           Coco-Betaine  Liquid   Lonza                                   
Schercotaine                                                              
           Myristamidopropyl                                              
                         Liquid   Lonza                                   
MAB        Betaine                                                        
Velvetex OLB-50                                                           
           Oleyl Betaine Paste    Henkel                                  
______________________________________
Within the broad category of liquid co-actives, the most effective are the alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates and sulfosuccinates.
As previously noted, soap is a very harsh chemical and when present in the compositions of this invention should be at a level no higher than 10%, preferably less than 5%, and advantageously totally absent.
Free fatty acids of 8-22 carbon atoms are desirably incorporated within the compositions of the present invention. Some of these fatty acids are present to operate as superfatting agents and others as skin feel and creaminess enhancers. Superfatting agents enhance lathering properties and may be selected from fatty acids of carbon atoms numbering 8-18, preferably 10-16, in an amount up to 40% by weight of the composition. Skin feel and creaminess enhancers, the most important of which is stearic acid, are also desirably present in these compositions.
Other performance chemicals and adjuncts may be needed with these compositions. The amount of these chemicals and adjuncts may range from about 1% to about 40% by weight of the total composition. For instance, there may be required anti-wear agents such as polycarboxylate polymers, thickeners such as Polymer JR® and natural gums, humectants such as glycerine, germicides, perfumes, colorants, pigments such as titanium dioxide, electrolytes, and water.
Evaluation of an active's skin mildness properties were determined through one or both of the following test procedures.
The Patch Test
This test is employed to screen formulations for the more extensive Flex Wash. In a Patch Test, up to six formulations can be tested at the same time on each subject, using occluded patches which remain on the forearm for 24 hours. Test sites are evaluated at 4 and 24 hours following the removal of the patches for erythema and dryness. Evaluation scores range from 0 for no response to 20 (moderate) with five point increments.
The Flex Wash Test
The Flex Wash procedure consists of four daily 60 second washes of the antecubital fossa (flex area of elbow). This method was designed to produce erythema quickly. Erythermal response varies only slightly with temperature and humidity fluctuations making the protocol suitable for year round testing.
Approximately 15 panelists were used as the test population. Panelist flex areas must be free of any skin condition (eczema, dryness, irritation, cuts or abrasions). Anyone taking antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs (more than 8 per week) or topical, oral or injectable cortisone on a regular basis was excluded from the study. The panel was divided into two subgroups which were balanced for left handedness. Group I was assigned composition "A" for the left flex and "B" for the right flex. Group II reversed the order.
Following an evaluation, the panelist was instructed to moisten the left flex area. Sponge and test compositions formulated as toilet bars were dampened with tap water (100 ppm calcium/magnesium ions). The sponge was then stroked over the test bar 10 times by the evaluator. The "dosed" sponge was placed in panelist's right hand. Panelist then washed the left flex area for exactly 60 seconds (approximately 120 strokes). Thereupon, the flex was rinsed and patted dry. This washing procedure was repeated on the right arm with the appropriate composition. Washing by this procedure was repeated 4 times daily for 5 consecutive days or a total of 19 washes. Treatment times were scheduled prior to washing and 4 hours after the third daily wash.
One trained assessor evaluated test sites prior to each wash and 4 hours after the third wash of the fifth day for a total of 20 evaluations. The grading scale was as follows:
0 - no erythema
0.5 - barely perceptible erythema
1 - mild spotty erythema/no edema
1.5 - mild/moderate erythema/with or without edema
2 - moderate confluent erythema/with or without edema or vesiculation
Each site was treated in the prescribed method until a grading of "2" or greater was attained or 19 washings had been completed. When a score of "2" or greater was attained the treatment was discontinued on that flex. The final score was then carried through for all remaining evaluations. The remaining flex was washed until either a grading of at least "2" or 19 treatments were attained, whichever was first. In the Examples of this specification, the final grading is the sum total of grade scores for 20 assessments per panelist averaged over the scores from all panelists. Thus, theoretically the average score could range from 0 to 38; the lower value indicating absolutely no skin irritation while the latter being severe. In practice, scores generally range from 15 to 30.
The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight of the total composition unless otherwise stated.
EXAMPLE 1
This Example illustrates the difference in mildness between stearoyl and cocoyl isethionate ester salts. Table I lists the various compositions and their Patch Test scores.
              TABLE I                                                     
______________________________________                                    
Formulations and Patch Test Scores                                        
            A       B       C     D                                       
Coco/Stearic Ratio                                                        
            100/0   75/25   25/75 0/100 Dove ®                        
______________________________________                                    
Cocoyl      40.00   28.75   8.80  --                                      
Isethionate**                                                             
Stearoyl    --      11.25   31.20 40.00                                   
Isethionate***                                                            
Stearic Acid                                                              
            36.00   36.00   36.00 36.00                                   
Sodium Isethionate                                                        
            11.00   11.00   11.00 11.00                                   
Water       10.00   10.00   10.00 10.00                                   
Salt        0.35    0.35    0.35  0.35                                    
Titanium Dioxide                                                          
            0.20    0.20    0.20  0.20                                    
Perfume     1.00    1.00    1.00  1.00                                    
Miscellaneous                                                             
            1.45    1.45    1.45  1.45                                    
Patch Score 10.4    8.5     6.2   1.9*  6.9                               
(24 hours)                                                                
______________________________________                                    
 *significantly milder than Dove                                          
 **C.sub.8 = 7%; C.sub.10 = 6%, C.sub.12 = 49%; C.sub.14 = 19%; C.sub.16 =
 9%; C.sub.18 = 7%                                                        
 ***C.sub.14 = 3%; C.sub.16 = 50%; C.sub.18 = 47%
From the results of Table I, it is evident that as the amount of stearoyl ester increases relative to that of the cocoyl, the compositions become progressively milder. Thus, mildness increases in the order A<B<C<D. Based upon the foregoing results, bar formulation D was submitted for Flex Wash testing to verify the result. Table II lists the Flex Wash outcome which confirms the significantly milder behavior of bar D than that of the commercially well-known Dove® bar whose major ingredient is sodium cocoyl isethionate.
              TABLE II                                                    
______________________________________                                    
Flex Wash Test                                                            
            Mean Scores*  Mean Rank Scores                                
Sample      Endpoint Erythema                                             
                          Erythema                                        
______________________________________                                    
Dove ®  1.500         21.47                                           
D           0.567         9.53                                            
Statistical Analysis                                                      
Rank Scores:                                                              
            P = 0.0001                                                    
(Wilcoxon 2 sample)                                                       
______________________________________                                    
 *Mean end point scores are the mean of the evaluation scores at which the
 first arm received a grade "2" or greater erythema score or at the       
 completion of nineteen washes.
EXAMPLE 2
A series of physical property evaluations were conducted on the acyl isethionate salts of varying chain length reported in Example 1. Among the further properties measured were that of wear rate, mush and lather. A brief description of the wear rate and mush tests is provided below.
Wear Rate - Pre-weighed bars were washed (rotated 20 times) and placed in a wet soap dish. This procedure was repeated 5 times over a period of two days. After the final wash, the bars were allowed to dry and were then reweighed. Wear rate (g/wash)=Initial Wt. - Final Wt./5.
Mush - Pre-weighed bars were immersed in water for 2 hours. The increase in weight was noted. Mush was removed and the remainder of the bar was dried. After reweighing, mush was calculated as the weight of mush per cm2 of surface mushed. Lower values indicated better performance.
              TABLE III                                                   
______________________________________                                    
Bar Properties With Varying Chain Length Isethionates                     
Coco/Stearic                                                              
Bar  Isethionate Wear          Lather                                     
No.  Rate        Rate    Mush  75° F.                              
                                     95° F.                        
                                           105° F.                 
______________________________________                                    
A    100/0       3.71    6.72  65    80    80                             
B    75/25       1.81    6.75  15    55    55                             
C    25/75       1.56    5.55  0      0     0                             
D    0/100       0.41    1.06  0      0     0                             
E    50/50       1.54    9.03  5     25    35                             
______________________________________
From the results of Table III it is evident that the stearoyl isethionate bar (D) has significant advantages in terms of wear and mush relative to that containing cocoyl isethionate. There is, however, a problem with lather, this problem is overcome by use of co-actives as will be seen in Tables IV-VI.
EXAMPLE 3
A number of co-actives were evaluated in the base formulation of Example 1 (D) wherein the isethionate ester was that of stearoyl. Tables IV-VI outline the compositions and Patch Test Scores.
              TABLE IV                                                    
______________________________________                                    
Patch Test Scores                                                         
Bar No.      1      2      3    4    5    Dove ®                      
______________________________________                                    
Stearoyl Isethionate**                                                    
             33.10  33.10  33.10                                          
                                33.10                                     
                                     40.00                                
Stearic Acid 29.80  29.80  29.80                                          
                                29.80                                     
                                     36.00                                
Sodium Isethionate                                                        
             9.10   9.10   9.10 9.10 11.00                                
Water        10.00  10.00  10.00                                          
                                10.00                                     
                                     10.00                                
Disodium Cocamido                                                         
             --     15.00  --   --   --                                   
MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                        
Disodium Oleamide                                                         
             --     --     --   15.00                                     
                                     --                                   
MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                        
Sodium C12-15                                                             
             --     --     15.00                                          
                                --   --                                   
Pareth-15 Sulfonate                                                       
Sodium Methyl                                                             
             15.00  --     --   --   --                                   
Cocoyl Taurate                                                            
Salt         0.35   0.35   0.35 0.35 0.35                                 
Titanium Dioxide                                                          
             0.20   0.20   0.20 0.20 0.20                                 
Perfume      1.00   1.00   1.00 1.00 1.00                                 
Miscellaneous                                                             
             1.45   1.45   1.45 1.45 1.45                                 
Patch Score (24 hrs)                                                      
             3.6    1.4*   1.4* 1.1* 1.8* 4.6                             
______________________________________                                    
 *significantly milder than Dove                                          
 **C.sub.14 = 3%; C.sub.16 = 50%; C.sub.18 = 47%                          

              TABLE V                                                     
______________________________________                                    
Patch Test Scores                                                         
Bar No.      6      7      8    9    10   Dove ®                      
______________________________________                                    
Stearoyl Isethionate**                                                    
             33.10  33.10  33.10                                          
                                33.10                                     
                                     40.00                                
Stearic Acid 29.80  29.80  29.80                                          
                                29.80                                     
                                     36.00                                
Sodium Isethionate                                                        
             9.10   9.10   9.10 9.10 11.00                                
Water        10.00  10.00  10.00                                          
                                10.00                                     
                                     10.00                                
Sodium Lauroyl                                                            
             15.00  --     --   --   --                                   
Sarcosinate                                                               
TEA Cocoyl   --     15.00  --   --   --                                   
Sarcosinate                                                               
Disodium Ricinoleamide                                                    
             --     --     15.00                                          
                                --   --                                   
MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                        
Sodium Methyl Oleoyl                                                      
             --     --     --   15.00                                     
                                     --                                   
Taurate                                                                   
Salt         0.35   0.35   0.35 0.35 0.35                                 
Titanium Dioxide                                                          
             0.20   0.20   0.20 0.20 0.20                                 
Perfume      1.00   1.00   1.00 1.00 1.00                                 
Miscellaneous                                                             
             1.45   1.45   1.45 1.45 1.45                                 
Patch Score (24 hrs)                                                      
             6.7    5.7    1.0* 4.3  1.3* 6.7                             
______________________________________                                    
 *significantly milder than Dove                                          
 **C.sub.14 = 3%; C.sub.16 = 50%; C.sub.18 = 47%                          

              TABLE VI                                                    
______________________________________                                    
Patch Test Scores                                                         
Bar No.        11      12     13   14   Dove ®                        
______________________________________                                    
Stearoyl Isethionate**                                                    
               33.10   33.10  33.10                                       
                                   40.00                                  
Stearic Acid   29.80   29.80  29.80                                       
                                   36.00                                  
Sodium Isethionate                                                        
               9.10    9.10   9.10 11.00                                  
Water          10.00   10.00  10.00                                       
                                   10.00                                  
Sodium Lauroyl 15.00   --     --   --                                     
Sulfate                                                                   
Sodium Trideceth Sulfate                                                  
               --      15.00  --   --                                     
Ammonium Myreth Sulfate                                                   
               --      --     15.00                                       
                                   --                                     
Salt           0.35    0.35   0.35 0.35                                   
Titanium Dioxide                                                          
               0.20    0.20   0.20 0.20                                   
Perfume        1.00    1.00   1.00 1.00                                   
Miscellaneous  1.45    1.45   1.45 1.45                                   
Patch Score (24 hrs)                                                      
               10.4    8.5    6.2  1.9* 6.9                               
______________________________________                                    
 *significantly milder than Dove                                          
 **C.sub.14 = 3%; C.sub.16 = 50%; C.sub.18 = 47%
Within each of the three Patch Test series (Tables IV-VI) a base formulation of stearoyl isethionate without co-active was included as well as a standard Dove® control. In each Patch Test at least one of the co-active bars was significantly milder than Dove®. Several of the co-active bars were also directionally milder than the control stearoyl isethionate bar.
The test results indicate that the use of taurates, sarcosinates and sulfated ethoxylated alcohols as co-actives result in bars equal in mildness to Dove®. A combination of sodium C12 -C15 pareth-12 sulfonate (an ethoxylated sulfonated fatty alcohol) and stearoyl isethionate results in a bar significantly milder than Dove®. Each of the amido-MEA sulfosuccinate/stearoyl isethionate bars were noted to be significantly milder than Dove®. The alkyl sulfosuccinate/stearoyl isethionate bar was only equivalent to that of Dove®.
Each of the bars which were shown to be significantly milder than Dove® in the Patch Test were subjected to a Flex Wash. The Flex Wash was conducted to verify the statistically significant results of the Patch Test. In every case, these results were in agreement and are presented to Table VII below.
              TABLE VII                                                   
______________________________________                                    
Flex Wash Scores                                                          
               Mean Rank                                                  
                       Mean Endpoint                                      
               Score   Erythema                                           
______________________________________                                    
Dove ®       23.50     1.688                                          
Sodium C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 Pareth-12                                       
                 9.5       0.688                                          
Sulfonate                                                                 
Dove ®       17.62     1.308                                          
Disodium Ricinoleamido                                                    
                 9.38      0.731                                          
MEA-Sulfosuccinate                                                        
Dove ®       16.92     1.192                                          
Disodium Cocamido                                                         
                 10.08     0.615                                          
MEA-Sulfosuccinate                                                        
______________________________________
EXAMPLE 4
This Example records the lather properties of bars having various co-actives in combinations with stearoyl isethionate. Bar formulations are listed in Table IV-VI.
The Lather Volume Measurement test involved rotating the experimental bars 15 half turns in a basin containing 105° F. water. The bar was then set aside and the resulting lather was worked for 10 seconds. A measuring funnel was then placed over the hands and both were lowered into a sink filled with water to the 0 ml mark on the measuring funnel. When the hands were fully immersed, they were removed from beneath the funnel. The funnel was then lowered to the bottom of the sink and lather volume was measured.
              TABLE VIII                                                  
______________________________________                                    
Lather Volume Measurement Results                                         
Bar No.                                                                   
       Co-Active         75° F.                                    
                                 95° F.                            
                                       105° F.                     
______________________________________                                    
1      Sodium Methyl Cocoyl                                               
                         unprocessable                                    
       Taurate                                                            
2      Disodium Cocamido 50      80    60                                 
       MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                 
3      Sodium C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 Pareth-12                                
                         0       15    15                                 
       Sulfonate                                                          
4      Disodium Oleamide 0        0     0                                 
       MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                 
6      Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate                                         
                         30      60    70                                 
7      TEA Cocoyl Sarcosinate                                             
                         0       15    15                                 
8      Disodium Ricinoleamido                                             
                         0       25    25                                 
       MEA Sulfosuccinate                                                 
9      Sodium Methyl Oleyl                                                
                         0        0     0                                 
       Taurate                                                            
11     Sodium Laureth-12 Sulfate                                          
                         0       25    30                                 
12     Sodium Trideceth Sulfate                                           
                         30      50    55                                 
13     Ammonium Myreth Sulfate                                            
                         45      75    55                                 
5,10,14                                                                   
       No Co-Active Present                                               
                         0        0     0                                 
______________________________________
From the results of Table VIII it is evident that sarcosinates significantly increased the lather of the stearoyl isethionate bar, the sodium derivative much more so that the TEA derivative. Activity of the amido-MEA sulfosuccinate decreased with increase in alkyl chain length. Thus, disodium cocamido MEA sulfosuccinate has the best lather, the ricinoleamide analog had modest lather volume, and the oleamido analog did not lather at all. All of the ethoxylated and sulfated/sulfonated alcohols provided an increase in bar lather.
The foregoing description and examples illustrate selected embodiments of the present invention and in light thereof various modifications will be suggested to one skilled in the art, all of which are within the spirit and purview of this invention.

Claims (4)

What is claimed is:
1. A skin cleansing composition comprising:
(i) acyl esters of isethionic acid salts, said esters being C16 -C18 acyl isethionates and having no more than 25% C14 or lower acyl groups; and
(ii) at least one co-active surfactant which is an amido sulfosuccinate;
wherein the weight ratio of said acyl esters to co-active ranges from about 20:1 to about 1:1, and soap is present in an amount from 0 to 10% by weight of the composition.
2. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the sulfosuccinate is a cocoamido sulfosuccinate.
3. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the ratio of isethionate ester to co-active ranges from 5:1 to 2:1.
4. A composition according to claim 1 wherein soap is absent.
US07/340,185 1989-04-19 1989-04-19 Acyl isethionate skin cleansing compositions Expired - Lifetime US4954282A (en)

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EP90906326A EP0469029B1 (en) 1989-04-19 1990-04-18 Acyl isethionate skin cleansing compositions
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US6342470B1 (en) 2000-04-26 2002-01-29 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Bar comprising soap, fatty acid, polyalkylene glycol and protic acid salts in critical ratios and providing enhanced skin care benefits
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US20080058237A1 (en) * 2004-10-26 2008-03-06 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco Mild acyl isethionate toilet bar composition
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US20060089279A1 (en) * 2004-10-26 2006-04-27 Brennan Michael A Mild acyl isethionate toilet bar composition
US7737096B2 (en) 2004-10-26 2010-06-15 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco, Inc. Mild acyl isethionate toilet bar composition
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AU631876B2 (en) 1992-12-10
AU5527490A (en) 1990-11-16
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DE69027600D1 (en) 1996-08-01
ZA902963B (en) 1991-12-24
DE69027600T2 (en) 1996-12-05
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CA2014831A1 (en) 1990-10-19
JPH04502624A (en) 1992-05-14

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