US633654A - Garment-fitter. - Google Patents

Description

No. 633,654. Patented Sept. 26, I899. J. T. MELICK.

GARMENT FITTER. (Application filed Mar. 3, 159 9..

2 Shaets-$heet I.

'(No Model.)

No. 633,654. Patented Sept. 26; I899. J. T. MELICK. v

GARMENT FITTEB.

[Application filed Mar. 3, 1899. (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.,

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NlTED STATES -FFICE.

PATENT GARMENT-FITTER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 633,654, dated September 26, 1899.

Application filed Marchs, 1899. Serial No. 707,603. on model.)

To rtZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JAMES T. MELICK, a citizen of the United States, residing at Rahway, in the county of Union and State of New Jer sey, have invented a new and useful Garment Measuring and Drafting Device, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to a measuring and drafting apparatus for use in laying off garments-such as coats, vests, waists, &c.and the object in view is to provide a simple and readily-adjustable combination and arrangement of parts adapted to snugly fit the form and comprising a plurality of longitudinal and transverse tapes which are adapted to be secured at their points of intersection at, the desired adjustments, said tapes being of any suitable material, but preferably of thin sheet metal, such as steel, fitted with a sheet or covering of textile material.

A further object of the invention is to provide a measuring device of the class named wherein the parts are so related as to adapt them to be arranged successively in a fiat position upon pattern-paper or fabric, whereby the outlines of the measure may be utilized in cutting out the parts of a garment.

Further objects and advantages of this invention will appear in the following description, and the novel features thereof will be particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a front View of a measuring device embodying my invention applied as in the operation of measuring for a coat. Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the measure in a flattened position, as adapted to be applied to pattern-paper or material preparatory to laying out the garment. Fig. 4 is a detail sectional view of one of the center-back clasps or slides. Fig. 5 is a detail View in perspective of one ofthe hook-carrying clasps or slides.

Similar reference characters indicate corresponding parts in all the figures of the drawlngs.

The combined measure and pattern embodying my invention is provided with a vertical or longitudinal hack tape or member 1, intersected at its upper extremity by a backncck tape 2 and at intervals below the necktape by a back-width tape 3, a bust-tape 4, a waist-line tape 5, and a hip-tape 6, a clasp or slide 7 being attached to each of said tapes 3, 4, 5, and 6 at the center of its length and being mounted for vertical or longitudinal adjustment upon the center-hack tape 1, said clasps preferably consisting of loops formed of sheet-metal blanks folded to overlap their extremities, with said extremities secured together and to the transverse tapes by means of rivets S. Said clasps are slotted at opposite sides to receive the transverse tapes. Said back-neck tape is used in connection with front-neck tapes 9, which combine therewith to form a complete neck-tape, and fixed to the rear extremities of the fron t-neck tapes are the upper inner ends of oblique shouldertapes 10, while to the portions of the backneck tape upon opposite sides of the plane of the center-back tape are adjustably attached other shouldertapes ll, clasps or Slides 7 being secural to the inner extremities of said shoulder tapes 11 and being mounted to slide upon the arms of the backneck tape. The clasps or slides 7 are preferably provided with set-screws 12, by which they may be secured at the desired adj ustment upon the back-neck tape. Thus it will be seen that at each side of the pattern are arranged two shoulder-tapes, which when the pattern is applied to the form of the person to be measured occupy parallel adjacent positions, and the rear ends of the front-neck sections or tapes 9 are connected with the back-neck tape by means of hooks 13, carried by said clasps or slides 7 and engaged with loops let at the extremities of the shouldertapes l0.

' Adjustably mounted upon the front-neck tapes 9 and upon the portions of the bust, waist, and hip tapes upon opposite sides of the center-back tape are center-front tapes 15. The clasps or slides 7 are employed to connect the upper ends of these center-front tapes with the front-neck tapes 9, one of them having a hook 13 to en age with the centerfront tape of the other side when the measure is applied, said slides 7 being mounted for adjustment upon the front-neck tapes, and the means employed for connecting the center-front tapes with the members 4:, 5, and (i consist of clasps or slides 7 which are mounted for adjustment upon both of the intersecting members, and one of each pair of the clasps 7 is provided with a hook 13 for engagement with the other center-front tape.

Adjustably mounted at their upper ends upon the shoulder-tapes 10(which I will term the side-shoulder tapes for the reason that they are carried by the side or front members of the other in contradistinction to the backshoulder tapes 11, which are carried by the back member of the other) are side-front tapes 16, which extend downward and intersect the bust-tape 4, a clasp or slide 7 being attached to the upper end of each of the sidefront tapes and being mounted for adjustment upon said sideshoulder tape 10, and a clasp or slide 7 being employed to connect an intermediate portion of each side-front tape with the bust-tape to allow adjustment of both the intersecting tapes it and 16 with relation to the slide and to each other. Also extending downward from each of the sideshoulder tapes 10 is a side-tape 17, which is adjustably mounted at its upper end upon said shoulder-tape by means of a clasp 7 and is adj ustably connected with each of the bust, waist, and hip tapes by means of clasps or slides 7". Similarly attached to each of the back-shoulder tapes 11 and intersecting each of the back-width, bust, waist, and hip tapes is a side-back tape 18, a clasp or slide 7 being employed to connect the upper end of the side-back tape with the back-shoulder tape, and slides 7 being employed at the intersections of said side-back tape with the transverse tapes 3, 4, 5 and 6.

Extending downward from the bust-tape between each side-tape 17 and the side-back tape 18 and intersecting the waist and hip tapes 5 and 6 is an under-arm tape 19, aclasp or slide 7 being employed to adjustably connect the upper end of each under-arm tape with the bust-tape to allow adjustment of the upper end of said under-arm tape transversely with relation to the bust-tape, and clasps or slides 7 being employed at the points of intersection of the under-arm tape with the waist and hip tapes. The clasp or slide '7 at the upper end of each under-arm tape forms the means of attachment of a scye or armhole tape 20, said tape 20 being secured at an intermediate point in said clasp or slide '7 and being adjustably connected, respectively, with the side-front tape, the sideshoulder tape, the back-width tape, and the back-shoulder tape by means of double slides 7 or slides which allow of the adjustment of either or both of the connected tapes or members of the measure.

Each of the tapes or members thus described is provided with graduations in inches or other unit of linear measurement, the initial points of the graduations or scales carried by the transverse members 2 to 6, inclusive, being arranged in the line of the center-back tape 1, the initial point of the longitudinal or vertical tapes being arranged at their upper ends and the initial points of the graduations or scales upon the scye or armhole tapes being at their points of intersection with the under-arm tape. Also the front-neck tapes are graduated,with their initial points at the intersect-ions of said tapes with the side shoulder tapes.

To apply the measure to the form of aperson to be measured, the hooks of the clasps or loops 7 at the intersections of the hackshoulder tapes with the back-neck tape are engaged with the above-mentioned loops 1% at the rear ends of the front-neck tapes, and similar hooks on the clasps or loops at the upper end of the side-back tapes are engaged with the clasps or loops at the upper ends of the side-tapes 1'7, the several clasps or loops being adjusted upon the members to which they are fitted to cause the several members of the neck-tape to properly fit the neck of the person and the arms or extremities of the scye or armhole tape being correspondingly adjusted through the clasps or loops upon the shoulder-tapes to cause a snug fitting thereof. Also the center-front tapes are secured in operative relation by engaging the hooks on the clasps or loops of one tape 15 with the other tape 15, after which thetransverse and longitudinal tapes may be adjusted through the several clasps or tapes to cause the other to conform, as may be desired or with the necessary snugness,t0 the figure of the wearer. The graduations upon the several tapesiudieating the different measurements of the body of the wearer will be indicated by the positions of the clasps or loops, which constitute indicating devices,and the length of the skirt, valance, or tails of the garment will be indicated by the lower portions of the vertical or longitudinal tapes below the point of intersection of the hip-tape 6 therewith. Having properly adjusted the various members of the measure, the device may be removed by unhooking the difierent clasps at the front, neck, and shoulder, whereupon the measure may be extended in a substantially flat condition upon a pattern-paper or the fabric from which the garment is to be cut, and the lines of the different port-ions of the garment will be indicated by the tapes with sufficient accuracy, and the latter may be used as cutting-lines, suitable allowance of course being made for seams, laps, the. For instance, as shown in dotted lines A in Fig. 3, the members of a cutaway-coat may be laid off, while, as shown in dotted lines B, the corresponding members of a sack-coat may be laid off practically from the same measurements, with the only essentially dilfereuce consisting in the length of the tail or skirt portion, and, as shown in dotted lines tion of the neck, however, being cut lower and less allowance being made for lap, and, as at c, a dart may be formed to insure the snug fitting of the vest, particularly at the waist-line.

3, a vest may also be laid oif from the same measurements, the front por- It will be seen from the foregoing descrip tion that the measure embodying my invention, which is adapted to entirely embrace the form of the person to be measured, is so constructed as to have its members detachable at the neck and shoulder, whereby the measure when removed from the form maybe arranged in a flat condition to indicate the lines upon which the pattern or parts of the garment are to be out, it being left, of course, to the knowledge of the tailor to make suitable allowances for the seams and laps of the particular garment which is to be cut from those measurements, as in the ordinary practice. Furthermore, it Will be seen that by employing a measure which extends entirely around the body of the person to be measured any irregularity or deformity of the person may be suited, whereby it is not necessary first to lay out both sides of a pattern from a measurement of one side and then make allowance for irregularities or deformities by fitting after the parts of the garment have been laid out and cut. It will be understood, furthermore, that in practice various changes in the form, proportion, size, and the minor details of construction Within the scope of the appended claims may be resorted to without departing from the spirit or sacrificing an y of the advantages of the invention.

Having described my invention, What I claim is 1. A measuring device for taking the dimensions of a figure, the same having a single center-back tape, transverse tapes provided at their centers with fixed slides mounted upon the center-back tape for sliding adjust ment thereon, a pair of center-front tapes adapted to be contiguouslyarranged and having the opposite terminals of the said transverse tapes individually and adjustably connected thereto, a single rear-neck tape attached to the center-back tape, independent neck-tapes adjustably attached to the centerfront tapes, pairs of shoulder-tapes having the terminals of the rear-neck tape attached to a portion thereof and the terminals of the front-neck tapes adjustably connected to the remaining shoulder-tapes, and means for operatively joining the transverse tapes and shoulder-tapes.

2. A measuring device for taking the dimensions of a figure, the same having a center-back tape, transverse tapes provided at their centers With fixed slides mounted upon the center-back tape for sliding adjustment thereon, center-front tapes adjustably con nected to said transverse tapes, the said center-front tapes being independent and adapt ed for contiguous arrangement in parallel relation and having the opposite terminals of the transverse tapes individually and ad justably engaging the same, a back-neck tape permanently secured at its central portion to the upper end of the center back tape, frontneck tapes having their front ends ad j ustably connected to the upper portions of the centerfront tapes, pairs of shoulder-tapes, having to one of each pair the terminals of the backnecl: tape adjustably fastened, and the remaining one of each pair having the rear terminals of the front-neck tapes adjustably secured thereto, side-back body-tapes having their upper ends attached to one of each pair of the shoulder-tapes and connected regularly to the transverse tapes, short side-frontbodytapes attached to the remaining one of each pair of shoulder-tapes and also to an adjacent transverse tape,and additional tapes attached to some of those set forth, to provide means for taking a complete measurement.

3. A measuring device for taking the di mensions of a figure, the same having a single center-back tape adapted to be applied longitudinally of the figure, transverse tapes provided at their centers with fixed slides mounted upon the center-back tape for sliding adjustment thereon, center-front tapes adj ustably connected with said transverse tapes and intended for contiguous arrangement in parallel relation, intermediate longitudinal tapes at the front and back, inter= secting the said transverse tapes, pairs of shoulder-tapes independently attached to the front and rear longitudinal tapes, a single back-neck tape attached at its center to the upper portion of the center-back tape and at its front end ad justably connected to one of each pair of shoulder-tapes on opposite sides, a pair of front-neck tapes having their front terminals adjustably connected to the upper ends of the said center-front tapes and their rear ends movably attached to the remaining ones of each pair of shoulder-tapes, and scye or armhole tapes adjustably mounted at intermediate points below one of the transverse tapes and at their extremities respectively upon the front and back shoulder tape of each pair on opposite sides.

4. In a measuring device for taking the dimensions of a figure, the combination with intersecting adjustahly connected tapes, including a bust-tape, of scye or armhole tapes provided at an intermediate point with a slide mounted upon the bust-tape, and opposite pairs of shoulder-tapes adapted to have the opposite extremities of the scye or armhole tapes adj ustably attached thereto, the front end of each scye or armhole tape being connected to the front-shoulder tape of each pair and the rear end of the scye or armhole tape in each instance being securable to the rearshoulder tapes on each side.

5. In a measure for taking the dimensions of a figure, the combination with intersecting tapes, of a clasp or slide arranged at the intersection of tapes and having an opening therethrough for the movement of the tapes and also in the sides in a plane at right anwardly from one side of the clasp, and a setmy own I have hereto aifixed my signature in screw threaded in a continuous side of the the presence of two witnesses.

loop for terminal contact with one of the tapes to secure the latter at a desired relative ad- 1 justment, the hook also serving to connect I JAMES 5 a tape having the same direction as that ex- Vitnesses:

CHARLES E. HOLMES,

tending longitudinally through the clasp.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as CHARLES R. MELICK.

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