WO1997049376A1

WO1997049376A1 - Concentrated dispersions containing a water soluble cationic polysaccharide, method for their preparation and their use in cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO1997049376A1
Application number: PCT/FR1997/001095
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marie-Dominique Larrey; Jean-Marc Ricca
Original assignee: Rhodia Chimie
Priority date: 1996-06-26
Filing date: 1997-06-18
Publication date: 1997-12-31
Also published as: FR2750322A1; AU3446697A; FR2750322B1

Abstract

The invention discloses stable concentrated aqueous dispersions of a system constituted by at least one cationic polysaccharide soluble or dispersible in water and at least one surfactant, comprising: 0.5 to 30 wt.%, preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, of cationic polysaccharide particles soluble or dispersible in water (Pcat); 20 to 50 wt.%, expressed as dry matter, of a surfactant (TA); a hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl grouping, with a molar weight of less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to 0.1 to 10 parts by weight per part of polymer (Pcat); 0 to 10 wt.% of a water soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg); 0 to 1 wt.% of a stabilising agent (Stab); 5 to 50 wt.% of water (W). The invention also discloses a method for their preparation, comprising the addition of a premix (A) free from water and consisting of a cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in powder form and of a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form, to a premix (B) with a viscosity less than 50000 mPa.s., consisting of water, of a surfactant (TA), optionally of a water soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), optionally of a stabilising agent (Stab) and optionally of a hydrocarbon compound (OH). The invention also concerns their use in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, and cosmetic compositions containing them.

Description

CONCENTRATED DISPERSIONS COMPRISING A POLYSACCHARIDE

CATIONIC WATER-SOLUBLE, THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS AND THEIR

USE IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

The present invention relates to stable concentrated dispersions comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide, their preparation process, their use in cosmetic compositions and the cosmetic compositions containing said dispersions.

Cosmetic compositions increasingly use cationic water-soluble or water-dispersible polysaccharides making it possible to fulfill various functions such as rheology control, a conditioning effect, the reduction in irritation due to certain ingredients of the formulation.

Most of these polysaccharides are in the form of powders and are difficult to use; their implementation often requires specific equipment which can lead to economic problems (productivity, aircraft occupancy time); they also present health and safety problems linked to the handling of powders.

The Applicant has found that a technical solution to solve these problems was the use of these water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharides within stable concentrated dispersions containing solutions of surfactants, dispersions in which these cationic polysaccharides are found. in the non-hydrated state in the form of particles.

According to the invention, these are stable aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized in that they understand

- of the order of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably of the order of 10 to 30% by weight, of particles of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) - of the order of 20 to 50% by weight, expressed as dry matter of at least one surfactant (TA)

at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl group, of molecular mass less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably approximately 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of polymer ( Pcat) - of the order of 0 to 10%, preferably of the order of 2 to 6% by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg)

- from 0 to about 1%, preferably of the order of 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab) - of the order of 5 to 50% of water (W).

The water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharides (Pcat) which can be used are in particular the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivatives of natural polysaccharides of animal or vegetable or hemisynthetic origin.

Polysaccharides of animal origin can come from the shell of certain animals, such as crustaceans such as chitin. Those of vegetable origin can come from algae, seeds, roots or tubers, such as galactomannans such as guar, carob, tara gum, cassia gum, glucomannans such as konjakmannane, alginates ( sodium alginate), acacia gum, gum arabic, agar or various starches. The hemisynthetic polysaccharides can be derivatives of chitin (chitosan), derivatives of cellulose (hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellu lose, hydroxypropylcel lu lose). The cationic derivatives of these natural or hemisynthetic polysaccharides are generally prepared by etherification or esterification of the free hydroxyl groups of the sugars forming the polysaccharide, by means of quaternary ammonium organic compounds of the 2,3 epoxymethylammonium chloride type. These water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivatives of natural or hemi-synthetic polysaccharides generally have a molecular mass of at least 20,000, most generally of the order of 200,000 to 3,000,000.

Among the preferred cationic polysaccharides (Pcat), mention may be made of cationic guar derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride and hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride hydroxypropyl guar (respectively JAGUAR C13S or 14S and JAGUAR C162 marketed by RHONE-POULENC).

Among the surfactants that may be present, there may be mentioned: - anionic surfactants such as

. the salts of C8-C24, preferably C14-C20 saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. C9-C20 alkylbenzenesulfonates. primary or secondary C8-C22 alkylsulfonates. 'es alkylglycerol sulfonates, sulfonated polycarboxylic acids described in GB-A-1 082 179, paraffin sulfonates, N-acyl N-alkyltaurates, phosphates esters of alkyl and / or alkyl ether and / or alkylaryl ether , isethionates, alkylsuccinamates, alkylsulfosuccinates, monoesters or diesters of sulfosuccinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, alkyl glycoside sulfates, alkyl polyethoxycarboxylates; the cation being an alkali or alkaline earth metal (sodium, potassium, lithium, magnesium), a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium residue (methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium, dimethylpiperidinium ...) or derived from an alkanolamine (monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine ...); . alkyl ester sulphonates of formula R-CH (Sθ3M) -COOR ', where R represents an alkyl radical ^preferably 03-20- in Cιg-IC6, R' represents an alkyl radical CJC _β, preferably C1 -C3, and M represents an alkaline cation (sodium, potassium, lithium), substituted or unsubstituted ammonium (methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium, dimethylpiperidinium ...) or derived from an alkanoiamine (monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine .. .). Mention may very particularly be made of methyl ester sulfonates whose radical R is C- _j 4-Cιg; . alkyl sulfates of formula ROSO3M, where R represents a C10-C24 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical. ^dθ Preference in C12-C20 ^{and very} particularly in Ci2-C- | 8 ' ^M representing a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above, as well as their ethoxylenated (OE) and / or propoxylenated (OP) derivatives , having on average from 0.5 to 6 units, preferably from 0.5 to 3 OE and / or OP units; . the alkylamide sulfates of formula RCONHROSO3M where R represents a C2-C22 alkyl radical. preferably Cg-C20. R 'represents a C2-C3 alkyl radical, M represents a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above, as well as their ethoxylenated (OE) and / or propoxylenated (OP) derivatives, having on average 0 , 5 to 60 OE and / or OP motifs; . alkyl and dialkyl phosphates and ether phosphates. non-ionic surfactants such as polyoxyalkylenated (polyethoxyethylenated, polyoxypropylenated, polyoxybutylenated) alkylphenols in which the alkyl substituent is CQ-C- \ 2 and containing from 5 to 25 oxyalkylene units; by way of example, mention may be made of the TRITON X-45, X-114, X-100 or X-102 sold by ROHM & HAAS Cy. ; . glucosamides, glucamides; . glycerolamides derived from N-alkylamines (US-A-5,223,179 and FR-A-1 585966);

. polyoxyalkylenated C8-C22 aliphatic alcohols containing from 1 to 25 oxyalkylene units (oxyethylene, oxypropylene); by way of example, mention may be made of TERGITOL 15-S-9, TERGITOL 24-L-6 NMW sold by Union Carbide Corp., NEODOL 45-9, NEODOL 23-65, NEODOL 45-7, NEODOL 45-4 marketed by SHELL CHEMICAL Cy., KYRO EOB marketed by THE PROCTER & GAMBLE Cy; . the products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, with propylene glycol, ethylene glycol and / or glycerol, such as the Pluronic sold by BASF; . products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with ethylenediamine, such as TETRONIC sold by BASF;

. amine oxides such as alkyl oxides C-I Q-CI S dimethylamines, alkoxy oxides C8-C22 ethyl dihydroxy ethylamines;

. the alkylpolyglycosides described in US-A-4565 647 and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives; . amides of C8-C20 fatty acids; . ethoxylated fatty acids; . ethoxylated fatty amides; . ethoxylated amines; . ethoxylated amidoamines, in particular those derived from N-hydroxyethyl N'-alkylamide ethylene diamines.

- cationic surfactants such as alkyltrimethylammonium halides, dialkyldimethylammonium halides, alkyldimethylbenzylammonium halides, alkylldimethylethylammonium halides ... - amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants such as

. the alkylbétalnes, alkyldimethylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylamidopropyldimethylbetaines, alkyltrimethylsulphobetaines sulphobetaines, imidazoline derivatives such as alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylampho- propionates, alkylamphodipropionates, alkylsultaines or alkylamidopropyl- hydroxysultaines, acid condensation products fatty acids and protein hydrolysates, amphoteric derivatives of alkylpolyamines such as AMPHOLIC XL marketed by RHONE-POULENC, AMPHOLAC 7T / X and AMPHOLAC 7C / X marketed by BEROL NOBEL.

Preferably, the surface-active agents (TA) are chosen from those of the anionic type such as the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates and / or alkyltaurates, preferably combined with at least one surfactant of amphoteric type such as the alkylbetaines and / or alkylamidopropylbétaines and / or alkylamphoacetates or diacetates.

Among the organic compounds (OH) containing a hydroxyl group, there may be mentioned - mono or polyalcohols, such as aliphatic monoalcohols containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, hexanol, aliphatic diols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, aliphatic polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, polyalkylene glycols with a molecular weight less than 1000 - sugars such as hexoses or pentoses such as glucose, galactose, mannose, disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, said organic compound (OH) is chosen from aliphatic polyols, and very particularly propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol. Among the water-soluble inorganic salts (Sinorg), there may be mentioned sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate.

Among the stabilizing agents (Stab) that may be mentioned, mention may be made particularly of xanthan gum, succinoglycan, etc. The dispersions (DCSPcat) forming the subject of the invention are in the form of a pumpable liquid or paste. Their viscosity is generally of the order of 200 to 100,000 mPa.s. or more, most generally of the order of 2000 to 10000 mPa.s. Another object of the invention consists in a process for the preparation of said dispersions (DCSPcat).

It is a process for the preparation of stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized by the addition from a premix (A) to a premix (B),

said premix (A) being free of water and consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) used in the form of a powder and at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form of molecular mass less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group, - said premix (B) having a viscosity of less than 50,000 mPa.s., and consisting of water, of at least one surfactant (TA) , optionally a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), optionally at least one stabilizing agent (Stab) and optionally a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form with a molecular mass of less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group, said premix (B) having a pH such that it is not capable of hydrating the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat), the relative amounts of the various constituents of the premixes (A) and (B) being, per 100 parts by weight of the in seems to be constituents,

- of the order of 0.5 to 30 parts by weight, expressed as dry matter, of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)

- of the order of 20 to 50 parts by weight, expressed as dry matter of at least one surfactant (TA)

- of the order of 0 to 10 parts, preferably of the order of 2 to 6 parts by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Inorg) - of 0 to about 1 part, preferably of the order of 0, 25 to 0.75 parts by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)

- of the order of 5 to 50 parts by weight of water (W) the quantity of hydrocarbon compound (OH) of molecular mass less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably of about 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide

(Pcat), at least 0.5 part by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) of said hydrocarbon compound (OH) being present in the premix (A). Said premix (A) can be prepared by stirring dispersion of the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in the hydrocarbon compound (OH) until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained.

When an inorganic salt (Sinorg) is present, the premix (B) can be prepared by adding said inorganic salt (Sinorg) in water or in a solution of the stabilizing agent (Stab) in water, then mixing with the surfactant (TA); preferably said premix (B) is prepared by adding the aqueous solution of inorganic salt (Sinorg) in the surfactant (TA).

The amounts of salt are adjusted according to the nature of the surfactant, the amount of water, the possible presence of stabilizer, so that the viscosity of the premix (B) does not exceed 50,000 mPa.s.

In the absence of an inorganic salt (Sinorg), the premix (B) can be prepared by simple addition of water, optionally containing the hydrocarbon compound (OH), to the surfactant (TA). When a stabilizing agent (Stab) is present, this is dissolved in water possibly containing the hydrocarbon compound (OH); the solution obtained is then added to the surfactant (TA).

For a good implementation of the process, the pH of the premix (B) is adjusted if necessary, in order to avoid any risk of hydration of the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in the final dispersion.

Thus, in the case where the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride, the pH of the premix (B) is adjusted if necessary, so that the pH of the final dispersion is greater than 10, preferably of the order from 11 to 13; if stabilizing xanthan gum is also present in this dispersion, the pH is preferably of the order of 8.5 to 10.5. Depending on the nature of the surfactant (TA), a neutralizing agent may therefore be necessary; this is preferably chosen from alkali metal hydroxides.

The premix (A) is added to the premix (B) by adding the premix (A) to the premix (B) with stirring, until a stable dispersion is obtained.

Stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide

(DCSPcat) described above can be used for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions, in an amount of the order of 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.

Different procedures can be used for this purpose. A first mode may consist in incorporating the ingredients other than the cosmetic composition, in particular those whose hydration is to be avoided, directly in said stable concentrated dispersion comprising a cationic polysaccharide

(D.C.S.Pcat), then dilute, most often with water, and adjust the pH; this mode of incorporation is particularly well suited to the preparation of conditioning shampoos. A second mode may consist in diluting said dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) in water for example, adjusting the pH, then incorporating therein the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

Another mode consists in incorporating said dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) directly into a liquid cosmetic preformulation (shampoo base for example) or powder (soap or toilet bar base for example).

Said stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (D.C.S.Pcat) can be used for the preparation of a large number of cosmetic compositions, in particular in the hair field, in the field of body and oral hygiene. In fact, cationic polysaccharides have various properties, in particular those:

- a conditioner in the hair or skin area to improve combability, shine, shaping, reduce static electricity ...

- to facilitate the deposition on the skin of silicone emulsions - to maintain good hydration of the skin

- avoid or reduce skin irritation from surfactants

- promote the formation of foam and / or improve the quality of the foam.

Thus in the hair field, said stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat) can be used for the preparation of rinsing formulas, lotions, shampoos (shower shampoos, conditioner shampoos), foams, sprays, styling gels, hairsprays, fixative gels or any other formulation for styling, to facilitate combing or fixing of hair.

In the field of personal hygiene, these are particularly advantageous for obtaining hand or body lotions, toilet milks, makeup-removing compositions, products regulating the hydration of the skin, care creams, creams or milk for protection against the sun and ultraviolet radiation, anti-acne preparations, local analgesics, mascaras; they can also be used as a constituent of compact and homogeneous solid compositions such as toilet bars, soaps.

These can also be used for the preparation of toothpastes, mouthwashes or any other composition for oral hygiene. The present invention therefore also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising the stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat) described above, in an amount corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 3% by weight, expressed as cationic polysaccharide (Pcat). The cosmetic compositions comprising the dispersions (DCSPcat) of the invention may use a vehicle or a mixture of vehicles compatible with an application to the hair and / or the skin. The term "compatible with an application on the hair and / or the skin" here means that the vehicle does not damage or exert any negative effects on the appearance of the hair and / or the skin or does not create irritation of the skin and / or the eye and / or the scalp.

The vehicles compatible with the dispersions described in this invention include, for example, those used in sprays, foams, tonics, gels, shampoos, or rinsing lotions. The choice of the appropriate vehicle will depend on the nature of the cationic polysaccharide used and its destination, depending on whether the formulated product is supposed to be left on the surface where it has been applied (for example sprays, foams, tonic lotion, or gels) or rinsed after use (e.g. shampoo, conditioner, rinse lotions).

The vehicles capable of being used can therefore be simple or complex and include a large number of products usually used in cosmetic compositions for the hair and / or the skin. The vehicle can be water and / or a solvent, such as Cj-Cg alcohols and their mixtures, in particular methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, and their mixtures. The vehicle can also be made up or contain a wide variety of other compounds such as acetone, hydrocarbons (isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenated hydrocarbons (freons), linalool, esters (l ' ethyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate), and volatile silicones (siloxanes such as phenyl pentamethyl siloxane, methoxypropyl heptamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, chloropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, hydropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopane cyclodimethicone, and dimethicone) and mixtures thereof. When the cosmetic compositions are in the form of sprays, tonic lotions, gels, or foams, the preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives and their mixtures. The solvents used in these mixtures can be miscible or immiscible with each other. Foams and aerosol sprays can also use any propellant capable of generating the products in the form of foam or fine, uniform sprays. By way of examples, mention may be made of trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, or isobutane. In the case where these cosmetic compositions are used for local application on the skin, the vehicles must have good aesthetic properties, be compatible with the cationic polysaccharides and all the other components, and not pose any problems concerning the toxicity and the irritation. These vehicles can take a large number of forms, for example emulsion, foams, sprays .... For example, vehicles in the form of emulsions include water in oil, oil in water, and oil in water in silicone emulsions. These emulsions cover a wide viscosity range, for example from 100 to 200,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C. These emulsions can also be delivered in the form of sprays using either a mechanical pump type device, or in the form of an aerosol pressurized by the use of a propellant gas. These vehicles can also be delivered in the form of foam.

The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain other additives. They can in particular contain fixative resins other than said cationic polysaccharide (Pcat).

These fixing resins are preferably dispersed or dissolved in the chosen vehicle. These fixative resins can be anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, or a mixture of these different natures; these are preferably chosen from those of an anionic or amphoteric nature.

These fixative resins are generally present in cosmetic compositions at concentrations of between 0.5 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 5%. They are preferably chosen from the following resins: wheat protein derivatives, methyl acrylate / acrylamide copolymers, polyvinylmethylether / maleic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl acrylate / butylaminoethylmethacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone methyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl alcohol / crotonic acid copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol / maleic anhydride copolymers, hydroxypropyl celluloses, hydroxypropyl guars, sodium polystyrene sulfonates, polyvinylpyrrolidone / ethyl methacrylate / ethyl methacrylate poly (methylvinyl ether / maleic acid), polyvinyl acetates grafted on polyoxyethylene trunks (EP-A-219 048), copolyesters derived from acid, anhydride or a diester t réphtalique and / or isophthalic acid and / or sulfoisophthalic acid and a diol, such as

. polyester copolymers based on ethylene terephthalate and / or propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units, (US-A-3,959,230, US-A-3,893,929, US-A-4,116,896, US-A-4,702,857 , US-A-4770 666); . sulfonated polyester oligomers obtained by sulfonation of an oligomer derived from ethoxylated allyl alcohol, dimethyl terephthalate and 1,2 propylene diol (US-A-4968451)

. polyester copolymers based on propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units and terminated with ethyl or methyl units (US-A-4,711,730) or polyester oligomers terminated with alkylpolyethoxy groups (US-A-4,702,857) or groups anionic sulfopolyethoxy (US-A-4,721,580), sulfoaroyl (US-A-4877896). the polyester polyurethanes obtained by reaction of a polyester obtained from adipic acid and / or terephthalic acid and / or sulfoisophthalic acid and a diol, on a prepolymer with terminal isocyanate groups obtained from a polyoxyethylene glycol and a diisocyanate (FR-A-2 334698)

. ethoxylated monoamines or polyamines, ethoxylated amine polymers (US-A-4,597,898, EP-A-11,984). polyester sulfonated oligomers obtained by condensation of isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfosuccinate and diethylene glycol (FR-A-2236926). polyester copolymers derived from dimethyl terephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol (EP-A-540374). copolymers comprising polyester units derived from dimethyl terephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol and polyorganosiloxane units (FR-A-2728915).

In addition, cationic resins can also be used. These cationic resins derive in whole or in part from cationic monomers such as, for example, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, or mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric derivatives other than the cationic polysaccharides (Pcat) exerting a protective or hydrating function of the skin. These polymer derivatives can be present in amounts of the order of 0.01-10%, preferably about 0.1-5%, and most particularly of the order of 0.2-3% by weight. By way of example, mention may be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers such as collagen or certain non-allergenic derivatives of animal or vegetable proteins (wheat protein hydrolysates for example), natural hydrocolloids (guar gum, locust bean, tara gum) or from fermentation processes such as xanthan gum and derivatives of these polycarbohydrates such as modified celluloses (for example hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, or non-ionic derivatives (for example hydroxypropylguar), anionic derivatives (carboxymethylguar) or non-mixed derivatives -ionic / anionic such as carboxy- hydroxypropyl-guars. It is also possible to add, alternatively or in combination, synthetic polymers such as polyacrylates or synthetic cationic polymers, known under the generic name CTFA of "Polyquaternium", for example the polymers MIRAPOL A15 or MIRAPOL 550 from the company RHONE-POULENC. It is also possible to add silicone derivatives, in particular high molecular weight polydialkylsiloxanes, these products being present in the form of dispersions. Other humectants or moisturizers may consist of certain carbohydrates (glycerol, sorbitol for example), polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols, alkoxylated derivatives of sugars or their derivatives (methyl glucose for example), urea, gelatin , aioe vera, hyaluronic acid ...

The performance of the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention can also be improved by the use of plasticizing agents. The plasticizing agent may constitute between 0.1 to 20% of the formulation, preferably from 1 to 15%. Among the particularly useful plasticizing agents, there may be mentioned adipates, phthalates, isophthalates, azelates, methyl and / or ethyl esters of C4-Cg acids, stearates, silicone copolyols, glycols, oil castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

These cosmetic compositions can also contain surfactants in addition to that or those present (s) in the dispersion (D.S.C.Pcat); these serve to disperse, emulsify, dissolve, stabilize various compounds used for their emollient or humectant properties. Surfactants are used in these compositions at concentrations varying from 0.05 to 50% by weight of the preparation. These anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures of these surfactants can be of the same nature as those already mentioned above as surfactants (TA) present in the dispersion (D.S.C.Pcat).

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants can be used to reduce the irritation caused by other surfactants, primarily anionic surfactants.

One can also advantageously add to these compositions metal sequestering agents, more particularly those sequestering calcium such as citrate ions.

Emollients such as silicones or oils or fatty substances used for this purpose in the cosmetic industry may also be present. The emollients are generally chosen from alkylmonoglycerides, alkyldiglycerides and triglycerides such as oils extracted from plants and plants (palm, copra, cottonseed, soybean, sunflower, olive and grape seed oils. , sesame, peanut, castor oil ...) or oils of animal origin (tallow, fish oils, ...), derivatives of these oils such as hydrogenated oils, lanolin derivatives, mineral oils or paraffinic oils, perhydrosqualane, squalene, diols such as 1 -2-propanediol, 1-3-butanediol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, alcohol oleic, polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols, fatty esters such as isopropyl palmitate, ethyl-2-hexyl cocoate, myristyl myristate, lactic acid esters, stearic acid, behenic acid, l 'isostearic acid, silicone oils grouping cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, α-ω hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxanes, α-ω trimethylsilylated polydimethylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes such as polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxones, silicones, polydiphenylsiloxanes, poloxiphenes copolyethers (such as the SILBIONE 70646 oil sold by the company RHONE-POULENC or the DC 190 sold by DOW CORNING) or the derivatives s mixed silicones including different types of derivatization (such as polyalkylmethylsiloxane-silicone copolyether copolymers). To protect the skin or the hair from the aggressions of the sun and UV rays, we can add to these formulations sunscreens which are either chemical compounds strongly absorbing UV radiation like the compounds authorized in the European directive N ° 76/768 / EEC, its annexes and subsequent modifications to this directive, either titanium dioxide or cerium oxides in the form of powder or colloidal particles. These powders can optionally be surface-treated to increase the effectiveness of their anti-UV action or to facilitate their incorporation into cosmetic formulations or to inhibit surface photoreactivity.

To these compounds, it is possible to add in combination powders or mineral particles such as calcium carbonate, mineral oxides in powder form or in colloidal form (particles of smaller size or of the order of a micrometer, sometimes of the order of a few tens nanometers) such as titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum salts generally used as antiperspirants, kaolin, talc, clays and their derivatives ... It is also possible to incorporate into the composition bactericidal or fungicidal agents so improve skin disinfection, such as triclosan.

Preservatives such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, sodium benzoate, GERMABEN (brand name) or any chemical agent preventing bacterial proliferation or molds and traditionally used in compositions cosmetics are generally introduced into these compositions up to 0.01 to 3% by weight. The amount of these products is generally adjusted to avoid any proliferation of bacteria, molds or yeasts in cosmetic compositions. Perfumes, dyes or pigments may be added to increase the enjoyment when the composition is used by the consumer. Thus, the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention can also contain any type of product intended to temporarily modify the external coloring of a body surface. By way of examples, mention may be made of dye products for the hair, make-up products such as lipsticks, nail polish, or products for eyelids and eyelashes.

Among the coloring agents which can be used as constituents of the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention, mention may be made of the products described in Annex IV ("list of coloring agents allowed for use in cosmetic products") of the European directive n ° 76/768 / EEC of July 27, 1976 known as the cosmetic directive.

The composition may also contain viscous or gelling polymers, such as crosslinked polyacrylates -CARBOPOL marketed by GOODRICH-, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guars and their derivatives, carob, tara gum or cassia, xanthan gum, alginates, carrageenans, chitin derivatives such as chitosan ... used alone or in combination, or the same compounds, generally in the form of water-soluble polymers modified by hydrophobic groups covalently linked to the polymer backbone as described in patent WO 92/16187 and / or water to bring the total of the constituents of the formulation to 100%.

The cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric dispersing agents in an amount of the order of 0.1-7% by weight, to control the hardness of calcium and magnesium, agents such as. the water-soluble salts of polycarboxylic acids with a molecular mass of the order of 2000 to 100,000, obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, citraconic acid, methylenemalonic acid, and in particular polyacrylates of molecular mass of the order of 2,000 to 10,000 (US-A-3,308,067), copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride of mass molecular of the order of 5,000 to 75,000 (EP-A-66915). polyethylene glycols of molecular mass of the order of 1000 to 50,000

Waxes such as paraffinic waxes, natural waxes such as beeswax or ozokerite or silicone waxes can also be found in the compositions.

The following examples are given by way of illustration. Example 1

880 g of EMPICOL BSD 52 (aqueous sodium magnesium lauryl sulfate solution at 52% by weight of dry extract, sold by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) are introduced into a 2-liter glass reactor fitted with a paddle-type stirrer. ), then with stirring, 60 g of propylene glycol; this mixture is stirred at room temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 30g of propylene glycol are introduced; 30 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained.

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained, the pH of which is 10. The change in its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfieid, sp4, 10 revolutions / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

Beyond 30 days the viscosity no longer increases.

Example 2

450 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution at 70% by weight of dry extract, marketed) are introduced into a 2-liter glass reactor fitted with a paddle-type agitator. by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and 300g of an aqueous solution of sodium cocoamphoacetate (32% solution by weight of dry extract). 160 g of sodium chloride solution (30% by weight of dry extract) are then added to this mixture with stirring. After stirring at room temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained, 50 g of hexylene glycol are added with stirring; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide. On the other hand, in a 100ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 20g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 30 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained. The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained, the pH of which is 11.8.

The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfieid, sp4, 10tours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

Beyond 30 days the viscosity no longer increases.

EXAMPLE 3 533 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution at 70% by weight of dry extract, sold by ALBRIGHT & WILSON). 346 g of sodium chloride solution (25.7% by weight of dry extract) are then added to this mixture with stirring. After stirring at room temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained, 61 g of hexylene glycol are added with stirring; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide. On the other hand, in a 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 30 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 30 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained.

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained, the pH of which is 12.4. The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfieid, sp4, 10tours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

Beyond 30 days the viscosity no longer increases. Example 4

Implementation of the concentrated dispersion comprising cationic guar

(D.C.S.Pcat) of Example 3 in a pre-formulation of shampoo.

A shampoo formulation is prepared by addition with stirring using a paddle frame, at room temperature of 330 g the dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) of Example 3 to

670g of deionized water. After 5 minutes of stirring, the pH of the mixture is adjusted to 6 with citric acid.

A fluid solution is obtained, the viscosity (Brookfieid. Sp4, lOtours / minutes) is as follows

A comparative shampoo formulation of the following composition is prepared in a conventional manner.

The JAGUAR C14S powder is slowly introduced into the water (dusting) with vigorous stirring (deflocculating paddle); 5 minutes after the end of the introduction of JAGUAR C14S powder, 3 drops of citric acid (30% solution) are added with stirring in order to hydrate the JAGUAR C14S. The medium is left under stirring for 20 minutes. The surfactant is then added, followed by the hexylene glycol and the salt. The pH is then readjusted to 6.

It is noted that the shampoo formulation obtained using the dispersion (DCSPcat) of Example 3 does not present any significant difference compared to the shampoo formulation obtained in conventional manner. Example 5

450 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution at 70% by weight of dry extract, marketed) are introduced into a 2-liter glass reactor fitted with a paddle-type agitator. by ALBRIGHT & WILSON), 300g of an aqueous solution of sodium cocoamphoacetate (32% solution by weight of dry extract) and 50g of hexylene glycol. Then added to this mixture with slow stirring, a sodium chloride solution containing xanthan gum, prepared immediately after the addition of 2g of RHODICARE S (xanthan gum marketed by RHONE-POULENC) to a solution of 40g of sodium chloride in 128g of deionized water. The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 15g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 15 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained.

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion of pH 8.8 is obtained. Its viscosity after 5 hours is 5900mPa.s. (Brookfieid, sp4, lOtours / minutes).

Example 6

370 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate at 70% by weight of dry extract, sold by ALBRIGHT & WILSON), 170g of deionized water and 60g of sodium chloride. The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 1000 ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 200 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 200 g of JAGUAR are then introduced with stirring

14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC); a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained.

The premix (A) is then incorporated with stirring into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion of pH 11 is obtained.

The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfieid, sp4, lOtours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

Beyond 30 days the viscosity no longer increases.

EXAMPLE 7 370 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulphate solution at 70% by weight of dry extract) are introduced into the order in a 2-liter glass reactor fitted with a paddle-type agitator. , marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and 50g of hexylene glycol. Then added to this mixture with slow stirring, a sodium chloride solution containing xanthan gum, prepared immediately after the addition of 2g of RHODICARE S (xanthan gum marketed by RHONE-POULENC) to a solution of 60g of sodium chloride in 168g of deionized water. The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide. On the other hand, in a 1000 ml Erlenmeyer flask, fitted with mechanical stirring, 150 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 200 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; a premix dispersion (A) is thus obtained.

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes, until a slightly yellow dispersion of pH 8.9 is obtained. Its viscosity after 5 hours is 5990mPa.s. (Brookfieid, sp4, lOtours / minutes).

Claims

1) Stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized in that they comprise

- On the order of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably on the order of 10 to 30% by weight, of particles of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)

- of the order of 20 to 50% by weight, expressed as dry matter of at least one surfactant (TA)

at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl group, of molecular mass less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably approximately 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of polymer ( Pcat)

- of the order of 0 to 10%, preferably of the order of 2 to 6% by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg)

- from 0 to about 1%, preferably of the order of 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)

- of the order of 5 to 50% of water (W).

2) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to claim 1), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivative of a natural polysaccharide of animal or vegetable or hemisynthetic origin.

3) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to claim 1) or 2), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) has a molecular mass of at least 20,000, preferably of the order of 200,000 to 3,000,000.

4) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 3), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic derivative of guar.

5) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 4), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride or hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride hydroxypropyl guar. 6) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 5), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

7) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 6), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) among the anionic surfactants, optionally combined with at least one amphoteric surfactant.

8) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 7), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) among the alkyl sulphates and / or alkyl ether sulphates and / or alkyltaurates, optionally combined with at least one alkylbetaine and / or an alkylamidopropylbétaine and / or an alkylamphoacetate or diacetate.

9) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 8), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) containing a hydroxyl group, is a monoalcohol, a polyalcohol or a sugar, of lower molecular mass at 1000.

10) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 9), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) containing a hydroxyl group, is an aliphatic monoalcohol containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a aliphatic diol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aliphatic polyol or a polyalkylene glycol of molecular weight less than 1000.

11) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 10), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) containing a hydroxyl group, is propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol.

12) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 11), characterized in that the water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), is sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate .

13) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 12), characterized in that the stabilizing agent (Stab), if any, is xanthan gum or succinoglycan. 14) Process for the preparation of stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized by the addition of a premix (A ) to a premix (B),

- On the order of 0.5 to 30 parts by weight, preferably on the order of 10 to 30 parts by weight, of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)

- of the order of 0 to 10 parts, preferably of the order of 2 to 6 parts by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Inorg)

- from 0 to about 1 part, preferably of the order of 0.25 to 0.75 part by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)

(Pcat), at least 0.5 part by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) of said hydrocarbon compound (OH) being present in the premix (A).

15) A method according to claim 14), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivative of a natural polysaccharide of animal or vegetable or hemisynthetic origin. 97/49376

22

16) Process according to claim 14) or 15), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) has a molecular mass of at least 20,000, preferably of the order of 200,000 to 3,000,000.

17) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 16), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic derivative of guar.

18) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 17), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride or hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar chloride.

19) Method according to any one of claims 14) to 18), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) from surfactants anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.

20) Method according to any one of claims 14) to 19), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) from the surfactants anionics, possibly associated with at least one amphoteric surfactant.

21) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 20), characterized in that the surfactant (s) (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) from alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates and / or alkyltaurates, optionally combined with at least one alkylbetaine and / or an alkylamidopropylbétaine and / or an alkylamphoacetate or diacetate.

22) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 21), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) with hydroxyl group, is a monoalcohol, a polyalcohol or a sugar, of molecular mass less than 1000.

23) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 22), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) with hydroxyl group, is an aliphatic monoalcohol containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an aliphatic diol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aliphatic polyol, a polyalkylene glycol with a molecular mass of less than 1000. 24) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 23), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) with hydroxyl group, is propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol.

25) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 24), characterized in that the water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg) is sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate.

26) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 25), characterized in that the stabilizing agent (Stab), if any, is xanthan gum or succinoglycan.

27) Use of the concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) forming the subject of any one of claims 1) to 13) or capable of being obtained according to the method forming the subject of any of claims 14) to 26), for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions, in an amount of the order of 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.

28) Use according to claim 27) for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions in the hair field, body hygiene or oral hygiene.

29) Cosmetic compositions, in particular in the capillary field, of personal hygiene or of oral hygiene, comprising the concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) forming the subject of any one of claims 1) to 13) or susceptible to be obtained according to the process which is the subject of any one of claims 14) to 26), in an amount of the order of 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.