WO2000029653A1

WO2000029653A1 - Two-way warp knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2000029653A1
Application number: PCT/JP1999/006399
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yuji Yoshida; Tokio Onoda
Original assignee: Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha
Priority date: 1998-11-16
Filing date: 1999-11-16
Publication date: 2000-05-25
Also published as: EP1152079A1; KR100385783B1; JP3231306B2; CN1326519A; AU1181500A; KR20010100992A

Abstract

A two-way warp knitted fabric of warp knit structure prepared by cross-knitting a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a front yarn and an elastomer fiber as a back yarn, which has a knitted fabric density ratio represented by the following formula (I): knitted fabric density ratio = number of course/2.54 cm / number of wale/2.54 cm of 1.55 to 2.35. This knitted fabric is a stretchable ground material of knitted fabric for clothes which is suppressed in curl, has a soft feeling and suffers no yellowing.

Description

Description Two-way warp knitting technology

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric showing elasticity in two directions. Conventional technology

Stretch woven fabrics (knitted fabrics) whose stretch directions are in the warp direction and weft direction are called two-way stretch woven fabrics (knitted fabrics). Maruzen Co., Ltd., published February 15, 1995], p. 139-p. 140, p. 139, p. Ί4, Japan Textile Management Association, “Basic Knowledge of Textile Products” The Japan Clothing Management Association, pp. 41-49 [19985]). In particular, the warp knitted fabric of the elastic yarn is generally called a two-way warp knitted fabric, and mainly has a warp knitted structure in which the elastic yarn formed by the knitting of nylon fibers and elastic fibers forms a needle loop. Nanna — Shorts, rangerie, girdle, brassiere for applications, swimsuits, skis and skates, diving wetsuits, cycling pants, outerwear for sports applications. Coatings and laminate processed products are widely used for manufacturing jumpers and other applications. Generally, two-way warp knitted fabric materials are used in which the warp and weft directions elongate in the warp direction of about 100 to 300% and the warp direction of about 50 to 200%, respectively. The knitted warp knitted fabric of nylon-elastic yarn is yellowish due to the heat set during dyeing processing or NOX gas during storage of the product, which is a unique defect of nylon fiber. It has the drawback that it is easily stained with acid dyes, causing discoloration due to chlorine water. To prevent this drawback, apply a low-temperature heat setting method to the knitted fabric or prevent the final product from yellowing. Five

Measures such as completely sealed packaging for the purpose and the use of a fixative to prevent discoloration due to chlorine water have been taken, and the processing and finishing of the product requires a great deal of labor.

Attempts have been made to produce two-way warp knitted fabrics by cross-knitting polyethylene terephthalate fibers and elastic fibers while avoiding the use of nylon fibers that are easily discolored by yellowing and chlorine water. However, by using polyethylene terephthalate fiber, it is possible to eliminate the yellowing of the fiber, but in the case of a hard texture in which the soft texture characteristic of nylon fiber has been lost. turn into. Even if the knitting is performed coarsely to obtain a soft knitted fabric and the finishing density is increased, a curling defect occurs, so that a knitted fabric having a soft texture has not been obtained.

It is known as a polyester fiber having no yellowing problem and a low Young's modulus, similarly to polyethylene terephthalate fiber.

Two-way warp knitted fabrics made of polymethylene terephthalate fiber have a shortage of knitted fabric called curling, particularly at the edges of the knitted fabric. The occurrence of curling impairs the work efficiency at the time of sewing, and in some cases, the sewing cannot be performed. This curl is caused by the force that returns the strain generated when the stiffness of the woven fiber forms a loop to a stable state. This occurs when the balance collapses. To eliminate the rolling phenomenon, the density of the knitted fabric may be extremely increased, but the texture becomes hard and the elasticity is reduced. As another method, there is a method in which heat setting is applied to stabilize and suppress fibers at a heat set of about 180 ° C. The heat-setting property of the polymethylene terephthalate fiber is not sufficient, and the stretch balance can be easily extended and contracted even at a high temperature of 180 ° C or higher. It collapses, and therefore curls. Disclosure of the invention

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems of the Tsui Yui warp knitted fabric, which does not yellow and has a soft texture, and curling is substantially suppressed by simple means. Aim to provide warp knitted fabric.

The present invention relates to a knitted fabric of a cross-knitted warp knit of a polyester fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn consisting of a polymethylene terephthalate and a ratio of the number of courses to the number of yarns in a specific region. The inventors have found out that this can be achieved by limiting, and have reached the present invention.

The present invention relates to a warp knitting structure comprising knitting a polymethylethylene fiber in the front and knitting an elastic fiber in the front.

) Is a two-way warp knitted fabric characterized by a knitted fabric density ratio of 1.55 to 2.35.

Course number Z 2.5 5 cm

Knitted fabric density ratio = (1)

ゥ Number of ales / 2.5 5 cm

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the present invention, polymethylene terephthalate fiber refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and a trimethylene terephthalate unit. Is contained in an amount of about 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, and still more preferably 90 mol% or more. The total amount of the acid component and / or the glycol component is about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and further preferably 10 mol% or less. % Or less of polymethylene terephthalate fiber.

Polymethylene terephthalate fiber may be in the form of long fiber or short fiber, may be uniform or thick in the length direction, and may be round, triangular or L-shaped in cross section. , T type, Y type, W type, Yaba type, flat It may be polygonal such as dogbone type, multi-leaf type, hollow type or irregular shape, but for inner, sports or outer use, it is a long fiber and uniform in the length direction. It is preferable that the fibers be irregular shaped fibers such as triangles. The fineness of the single fiber can be 0.1 to 5.6 decitex for single yarn denier. A suitable thread thickness is about 33 to about 110 decitex.

Polymethylene terephthalate-based fibers can be knitted into two-way warp knitted fabrics, such as spun yarns such as ring spun yarns and open-end spun yarns, and multifilament yarns. Raw yarns (including ultrafine yarns), sweet twisted to strong twisted yarns, mixed yarns, false twisted yarns (including P0Y drawn false twisted yarns), and fluid-sprayed yarns can be used. The two-ply warp knitted fabric of the present invention is usually blended with other fibers such as wool within a range of not more than 30% by mass within a range not impairing the object of the present invention (silo span or silof span). Means, entangled mixed fiber (different shrinkage mixed yarn with high shrinkage yarn, etc.), intertwisted, composite false twist (elongation difference false twist, etc.), 2-feed gas jet processing yarn, etc. Can be mixed.

In the present invention, the elastic fiber interwoven with the polymethylethylene terephthalate-based fiber has an elastic elongation with a breaking elongation of 100% or more and a fineness of 11 to 78 dC. The fibers can be any elastic fiber such as polystyrene or polyetherester of 17 to 44 decitex, and ordinary polyurethane-based elasticity can be used. Polymers and spinning methods are not particularly limited as long as they are fibers.

The elastic fiber is preferably a fiber whose elasticity is not impaired at a normal processing temperature of about 190 ° C. in the presetting step in the dyeing process. The form of the elastic fiber includes a bare yarn, a covering yarn, and a twist yarn, and is not particularly limited.

The two-way warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is used for a warp knitting machine having a single needle bed. It is knitted with a double-layered structure consisting of closed and Z or open stitches, through which polymethylene terephthalate fibers are passed through the front and elastic fibers are passed through the back. It is a knitted fabric. Therefore, the knitted warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is formed by an organization that can be knitted with two pieces, and typical organizations are double denbi, double code, and half (locked). It can be used in, for example, knock-off, queens code, satin, and double atlas. The elasticity function and curlability of a two-way warp knitted fabric vary greatly depending on the organization. For example, if the underlap of the front tissue is less than one stitch, it is thin and the ring is thin. Above three stitches, the texture is hard due to the thickness of the ground, and the elasticity decreases. No elasticity in the weft direction is obtained when the underlap of the back tissue is between 0 stitches, and when it is more than 2 stitches, the adjacent elastic yarns are dyed at the contacting points and intersections in the fabric. It fuses with the heat of the time and the feeling becomes hard. Thus, the choice of combination of numbers of underlaps is preferably, but not limited to, satin, half, and more preferably half-organized.

The following is an example of a preferred knitted fabric tissue, given without limitation.

(1) Two-needle tissue, front knitted fabric, commonly known as half

Front 10/2/3, Back 12/1/10

(2) Half organization front 10/23, which shifts the positional relationship between the front organization and the back organization, and 10/1/2

(2) Half by combination deformation of opening and closing eyes

Front 1 072 3, Back 21 0 1 0 1

In the present invention, the ratio of the number of courses and the number of ales constituting the unit surface of the finished knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric density ratio represented by the formula (1) are adjusted to 1.55 to 2.35. However, the soft texture unique to polymethylene terephthalate fiber is maintained on the knitted ground, forming a two-way warp knitted fabric with reduced force. Course number Z 2.5 4 cm

Knitted fabric density ratio = (1) ゥ ale number / 2.5 .4 cm

In the present invention, the knitted fabric density ratio is a density ratio of a knitted fabric after dyeing and finishing, and it is necessary to design a knitted fabric in consideration of shrinkage of the knitted fabric during knitting. This knitted fabric density ratio is calculated by the number of loops per 2.54 cm, and the number of courses in the warp direction / 2.54 cm is calculated as the number of wales in the weft direction Z 2.5 The value divided by 4 cm is defined as the knitted fabric density ratio.

If the knitted fabric density ratio is less than 1.55, curling is likely to occur at the left and right ends in the horizontal direction of the two-way warp knitted fabric. The curl phenomenon easily occurs at the upper and lower ends of the warp knitted fabric in the warp direction. Preferred knitted fabric density ratio is 1.65 to 2.25.

The design of the knitted fabric based on the knitted fabric density ratio of the present invention is basically a force that can achieve the object of the present invention even if the gauge of the knitting machine is changed. Density ratio is 1.56-1.93, 36 In the case of a knitting machine, the most preferable knitting density ratio is 1.85-2.35. The most preferred range of density ratios tends to be higher.

A method of designing a knitted fabric so that the knitted fabric density ratio of the two-way warp knitted fabric is 1.55 to 2.35 is, for example, a runner length of elastic yarn (also called run-in) during knitting. An index indicating the length of the yarn forming one stitch, the larger the number in the same structure, the coarser the stitch. In the warp knitting field, this is represented by the yarn length per 480 course.) And knitting of poly knitted fabric of polyethylene terephthalate fiber and elastic fiber, and an on-machine course (a knitted fabric with an index indicating the height of one stitch at the time of knitting). The higher the number of courses, which is the winding amount, the higher the density. One-way warp knitting at 90 ° C for 1 minute At the time of stretching in the presetting process after refining by applying relux scouring, a tension setting is performed so as to be within the density ratio of the present invention, and the density or the preset is approximately the same as the width and length after dyeing. The runner length between the polymethylene leftlet fiber and the elastic fiber and the on-machine course are set so that the specified density ratio can be obtained by setting and finishing at the same density ratio as the unit. I have to.

The setting conditions can be in the range of 150 to 200 ° C and 30 to 60 seconds, but preferably around 190 ° C during presetting and the finishing set. If it is carried out at around 170 ° C., a warp knitted fabric having good setting properties and no problem in terms of color fastness can be obtained. For dyeing, the use of a liquid jet dyeing machine, which does not cause any spots that can be used by any dyeing machine, is preferred. The double warp knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted by a tricot knitting machine or a rassel knitting machine, and the gauge of the knitting machine is not particularly limited, but is 18 to 40 gauge Z2.54. The knitting machine of cm may be arbitrarily selected according to the thickness of the fiber to be used.

As described above, through the adjustment of the knitted fabric density, a soft product without curl phenomenon can be obtained, and further, a two-dimensional warp knitted fabric having no problem in shrinkage such as washing shrinkage and press shrinkage can be obtained. .

Two-way warp knitted fabric with a knitted fabric density of 1.55 to 2.35 can be prepared with a two-way warp knitted fabric made of nylon fiber or polyethylene terephthalate fiber. It is. However, when the knitted fabric density is manufactured within the range of the present invention, a two-way warp knitted fabric using nylon fibers is an unsatisfactory knitted fabric with a yellowing problem remaining, while a polyethylene terephthalate is used. The knitted fabric using fiber can only obtain a hard texture. If a rough knitted fabric is used to obtain a soft texture, curl will appear.

As described above, the polymethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention may include a polymethylene terephthalate repeating unit. In addition, it may be composed of a copolymer of terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with other acid component and Z or glycol as a third component and trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof. it can. In the process of synthesizing this copolymer, one or more suitable third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a copolymer such as polyethylene terephthalate may be used. Polyesters other than polyethylene terephthalate

After separately synthesizing nylon and polymethylethylene terephthalate, blending or composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) may be used. The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium phthalate). Dimethyl sulfophthalic acid, etc.), aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, tetramethylen glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane dimethyl ethanol, etc.), aromatics Aliphatic glycols (1,4-bis (-hydroxyethoxyquin) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω-oxycapron) Acid) and aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (eg, benzoic acid). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used in a range where the polymer is substantially linear.

Polymethylene terephthalate fiber is obtained by obtaining an undrawn yarn at a winding speed of about 150 OmZ and then twisting it by about 2 to 3.5 times. Either a direct drawing method (spin draw method) directly connecting the two or a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 500 OmZ or more may be employed. Polymethylene terephthalate fiber is made of an anti-glazing agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid, UV absorbers such as enonone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerogels, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, and fluorescent light It can be spun containing a whitening agent, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

Hereinafter, the idea of the present invention will be more specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the description of the examples. The method for preparing the fibers used, the method for measuring the fineness of the elastic fibers, and the method for evaluating the performance of the two-way warp knitted fabric in the examples are as follows.

(1) Preparation of the polymethylentelephthalate fiber used

The spinning temperature of the polymethyl terephthalate with s / c = 0.8 is 26.5. C, a spinning speed of 1200 mZ was used to obtain an undrawn yarn, and then a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C, a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C, a draw ratio of 3 times, and a drawing speed of 80 ° C. Two types of drawn yarns of 40 dtex / 34 f and 56 d / 36 f were obtained by twisting with O mZ. The strength, elongation, initial tensile resistance and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the 40d / 34f drawn yarns are 2.7c NZ dtex, 44% and 25c N / dtex, respectively. At 97%, the elongation and elastic modulus of the 56 dtex / 36f drawn yarn and the elastic recovery at 10% elongation are 2.8 c NZ dtex, 46%, and 26%, respectively. c NZ dtex and 98%. The elastic recovery of the fiber at 10% elongation was determined by applying an initial load of 0.01 cN / dtex to the sample and elongating it at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute. %, The contraction is reversed at the same speed to draw a stress-strain curve, and the residual elongation when the stress decreases to 0.01 c NZ dtex during the contraction is equal to the initial load. L was calculated by the following equation.

Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation = (10-L) / 10 X 1 0 0 (%) The viscosity of the polymer, 7? Sp Zc, was determined by dissolving the polymer in 0-chlorophenol at 90 ° C at a concentration of 1 g deciliter, and then obtaining the polymer. The obtained solution was transferred to an Ostwald viscometer and measured at 35 ° C, and calculated by the following equation (where T: falling time of the sample solution (second), C: solution concentration [g / Deciliter)

η s p Z c = (Τ / Τ 0-1) Z C

(2) Measurement of fineness of elastic fiber

The elastic fiber is allowed to stand on a straight line with no tension and no load in an atmosphere of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH to allow it to shrink. Thereafter, 10 pieces of the sample cut to a length of 1 m were combined, weighed, converted to the weight per 100 Om, and the value was defined as fineness.

(3) In the examples, the evaluation of the two-way warp knitted fabric was performed by the following method.

[1] Evaluation of curl development

Two square test specimens with a warp knitted fabric of 10 Omm x 10 Om in the weft direction were prepared on a warp knitted fabric in an atmosphere conditioned at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% RH. Spread the two specimens on a horizontal table with the needle loop side and the single loop side up, and leave them gently. After the elapse of 4 hours, determine whether the ears of the test have rolled up according to the following criteria. Attach a protractor to the rolled-up part, and determine the angle (0) with respect to the table where the tangent at the tip is horizontal. Above 90 °, handling during sewing becomes a problem.

5 Curl angle less than 30 degrees

4 Curl angle less than 45 degrees

3 Curl angle less than 90 degrees

2 Curl angle less than 130 degrees

1 curl angle is more than 130 degrees

[2] Evaluation of texture The sensory test of touch by 10 panelists was judged by the average value. Using the same texture of nylon fiber as the standard texture, 4 to 5 points are excellent in softness, 3 points are indecisive, and 2 to 1 points are inferior. It was judged by the total score.

Judgment was made based on the following criteria by handing.

5 points The texture is extremely soft, smooth,

4-point texture is soft and smooth,

3 points The texture is the same as a knitted fabric with the same structure using nylon fiber. 2 points The texture is hard.

1 point Hard texture, not unsuitable for inner use.

[3] Evaluation of yellowing

JIS-L-085 5 Test method for color fastness to nitric oxide gas The test was performed according to the weak test method. Judgment was made by comparing the yellowness Y I value obtained with a Macbeth colorimeter (manufactured by Macbeth) with the untreated sample. The higher the Y I value, the higher the yellowing.

[4] Evaluation of thermoformability

A thermoforming tester manufactured by Daito was used. Cut the dough into a square of 30 mm in latitude and prepare a sample, fix it in a frame (200 mm in latitude and 200 mm in latitude) under free tension, and press the heated mold in the center. After shaping, the amount of deformation and the change in texture of the fabric after standing for 24 hours in an environment with a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 65% were evaluated.

Thermoforming test model Stretch molding machine manufactured by Daito

Heater mold shape Metal cylinder (diameter 50 mm, height 30 mm

)

Temperature 180. C

Time 30 seconds

Depth 20 mm Judgment criteria

Good: Deformation 18 mm or more and no change in texture

Bad: Deformation less than 18 mm or change in texture

[5] Evaluation of napping property

Using a KU-50 model manufactured by Kanai Kizou Kinzoku Co., Ltd. as a brush raising tester, the uniformity evaluation and the thickness of the cloth were measured when the sinker loop surface of the greige was brushed under the conditions for a loop fill. The larger the criterion thickness, the better the nap.

(Example 1)

Polymethylentelephthalate fiber 40 dtex Z34f is used as the front, and the polyurethane elastic fiber is used as the backing (Roy power, trade name of Asahi Kasei Corporation). A half structure was knitted using elastic fiber obtained by warping 22 dtex at a draft rate of 80%.

'' Knitting machine: 28 gauge Z 2.54 cm tricot knitting machine (made by Karl Mayer)

'' Organization: Front 10/23, Back 12 10

• Runner length: Front 160 mm, back 90 mm

'' Onboard course: 76 courses Z 2.54 cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions was scoured at 90 ° C for 1 minute, and was pre-set at 190 ° C for 45 seconds. The density at the time of presetting was set as follows: the number of courses and the number density ratio were set to 1.83, and the number of courses was 110 courses Z 2.54 cm X 60 cm2 / 2.54 cm. did. After pre-setting, dyeing was carried out with a jet dyeing machine. After this, the same 110 ° course as the preset, Z 2.54 cm, 60 mm Z 2.54 cm, that is, a long and wide finish set, and a two-way course I got a knitted fabric. This finish Ge'ichiu Wei warp knitted fabric, the weight per unit area of 1 to 7, also 0 of g / m ² thickness of 0. 6 1 mm / 95, and various physical properties were evaluated. Table 1 shows the results. I got it

— ゥヱ The warp knitted fabric has no yellowing, has a soft texture, does not cause curling, and has excellent formability, and is the best suited for the use of a single type of yarn.

(Examples 2 to 5)

A sample was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the front runner was shorter than in Example 1 to create a high density greige machine, and the course / pal density ratio was set to 1.93. did. Example 3 was performed except that the front runner was made longer and a low-density greige machine was created as compared to Example 1, and the number of courses was set so that the number of courses was 1.55. Samples were prepared according to Example 1. Example 4 is different from Example 1 in that the back runner is shorter and a high density greige machine is produced, and the ratio of the number of courses / air number density is set to 1.81. The sample was adjusted according to the procedure. Example 5 is the same as Example 1 except that the length of the back runner is longer than that of Example 1 to create a low density greige machine, and the ratio of the number of courses / pool number is set to 1.70. The sample was adjusted. Each finished knitted fabric was evaluated for curl appearance, texture, yellowing, and moldability. Table 1 shows the results.

The finished two-ply warp knitted fabric had no yellowing, had a soft texture, did not have a force phenomenon, and had excellent moldability.

(Comparative Example 1)

Compared with Example 1, the back runner length was shortened, a high-density greige machine was created, and the number of courses during presetting was set to 2.37. Finished according to Example 1 except for changing the density of the anti 0

A knitted fabric sample was prepared and evaluated for curl appearance, texture, yellowing, and moldability. Table 1 shows the results. The obtained two-way warp knitted fabric had no yellowing and had a texture similar to that of nylon, but had a curl phenomenon, and was unsuitable for use as an inner fabric.

(Comparative Example 2)

Compared to the first embodiment, the front runner length was shortened, a coarse density greige machine was created, and the number of courses / aile number density during presetting was set to 1.52. A sample knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the density of the finished fabric was changed, and the curl appearance, texture, yellowing, and formability were evaluated. Table 1 shows the results.

The resulting two-ply warp knitted fabric had no yellowing and had a soft curl phenomenon, which resulted in a warp knitted fabric unsuitable for inner use. Also, the formability of the knitted fabric was poor.

(Example 6)

Polymethylentelephthalate fiber 40 dtex / 34f is used as the front, and the polyurethane elastic fiber is used as the backing (Roy power, trade name of Asahi Kasei Corporation) A half structure was knitted using elastic fibers obtained by warping 22 dtex at a draft rate of 80%.

'' Knitting machine: 36 gauge / 2.54 cm tricot knitting machine

'Organization: Front 10/23, Back 1 2 Z 10

'Runner length: Front 126 mm, Back 7.6 mm' On-board course: 80 courses Z 2.54 cm

The greige fabric was relaxed and scoured at 90 ° C for 1 minute and preset at 190 ° C for 45 seconds. To set the density during presetting, set the coarse dwell density ratio to 2.25 and set the 180 course 2.54 cm x 80 square. After pre-setting, staining was performed with a jet dyeing machine. After this, the same setting as the preset was performed, with a setting of 1557 courses / 2.54 cm x 70 mm Z Z 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 13 8 g Z m ² thickness 0 .5 1 mm finished two-way warp knitted fabric was obtained. Table 1 shows the results of the evaluation of various physical properties of the obtained one-way warp knitted fabric.

(Examples 7 to 8)

In contrast to the sixth embodiment, the seventh embodiment shortens the length of the front and back runners to create a denser greige, and the eighth embodiment reduces the front and back runners. Prepare a longer and coarser greige machine, set the number of courses during presetting, changing the Z-pole number density to 2.35 and 1.85, and change the density of the finished fabric. A sample finished knitted fabric was prepared according to Example 6. The finished knitted fabric was evaluated for curl appearance, texture, yellowing, and moldability. Table 1 shows the results. The obtained two-ply warp knitted fabric had no yellowing, had a soft texture, did not cause curl, and had excellent moldability, and was suitable for an inner swimsuit.

(Comparative Example 3)

A sample was prepared in the same manner as in Example 6 except that the runner length, the number of courses at the time of presetting, and the number density were set to 1.54, and the density of the finished product was changed. Table 1 shows the results of evaluation of the appearance of force, texture, yellowing, and moldability of the finished knitted fabric. This finished two-way warp knitted fabric has no yellowing and soft texture. However, the curl phenomenon occurred and the warp knitted fabric was inappropriate for use. (Comparative Example 4)

Compared to Example 6, except that the back runner was shortened to prepare a high density greige machine, and the course / pile density at presetting was set to 2.38, the density of the finished fabric was changed. A sample of the finished knitted fabric was prepared according to Example 6. The finished knitted fabric was evaluated for curl appearance, texture, yellowing, and moldability. Table 1 shows the results. Finish One-way warp knitted fabric is a warp knitted fabric that has no yellowing, has a soft texture, curls, has poor moldability, and is unsuitable for use.

(Example 9)

Polymethylentelephthalate fiber 56 dtex / 336f is used as the front, and the back is made of polyurethane-based elastic fiber (trade name of Asahi Kasei Corporation) The knitted fabric of the half structure was knitted using elastic fibers obtained by warping 44 dtex at a draft rate of 80%.

'' Knitting machine: 28 gauge / 2.54 cm tricot knitting machine

• Organization: Front 10 Z 23, Back 1 2/10

'Runner length: Front 165 mm, Knock 80 mm' On-board course: 81 courses / 2.5 4 cm

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions was subjected to relax scouring at 90 ° C for 1 minute, and was preset at 190 ° C for 45 seconds. The density setting at the time of presetting is set as follows: the number of courses and the number density ratio of the course are set to 1.92. After presetting, staining was performed with a jet dyeing machine. In addition, the same number of courses as the preset /2.54. 111. A finishing set was made to the same number of reels / 2.54 cm to obtain a two-way warp knitted fabric. The finished one-way warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 227 / m ^{2 and a} thickness of 0.66 mm. About finished knitted fabric Table 1 shows the results of various physical property evaluations.

The finished knitted fabric has no yellowing, soft texture and no curl phenomenon, and is excellent in moldability and brushedness, and is the ideal warp knitted fabric for inner and swimwear applications. Was evaluated.

(Comparative Example 5)

The knitted fabric was knitted in the same manner as in Example 9 except that nylon 6 fiber 56 dtex / 36f was used as the front. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained knitted fabric. The texture of the fabric is soft, tending to yellow, and the fabric is difficult to handle because it has a force phenomenon and is poor in uniformity when raising with poor settability.

(Comparative Example 6)

A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 9 except that the polyethylene fiber of latex fiber 56 dtex Z36f was used as the front.

Table 1 shows the evaluation of the finished knitted fabric. The finished knitted fabric had no yellowing and no curling, but had a hard texture. The setting of the knitted fabric was good, but the brushing property was inferior, and it was not suitable for inner wear.

(Example 10)

Polymethylentelefurate latet fiber 56 dtex / 336f is used as the front, and the back is made of polyurethane elastic fiber (trade name: Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) A half-structured knitted fabric was knitted using elastic fibers obtained by warping 44 dte X at a draft rate of 80%.

'' Knitting machine: 28 gauge / 2.54 cm tricot knitting machine

'Organization: Front 10/34, Back 12/10 'Runner length: Front 206 mm, 80 mm,' In-machine course: 81 1 course 2.54 cm

The knitted fabric was subjected to a relax scouring operation at 90 ° C for 1 minute, and was preset at 190 ° C for 45 seconds. The density at the time of presetting was set to a course Z-pole density ratio of 1.8 8 11 13 course Z2.54 cm X 60 layer Z2.54 cm. Staining was performed. After that, a finishing set was performed to the same number of courses as the preset, 2.54 cm, and the same number of ales, Z 2.54 cm, to obtain a two-dimensional warp knitted fabric. The finished twin warp knitted fabric had a basis weight of 250 g / m ^{2 and a} thickness of 0.70 mm, and was evaluated for various physical properties. Table 1 shows the results.

The finished knitted fabric has no yellowing, soft texture and no curl phenomenon, and has excellent moldability and excellent brushing properties. there were.

(Example 11)

Polymethylene terephthalate fiber 56 dtex / 336f is used as the front, and the back is made of polyurethane-based elastic fiber (Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. product name Roy Power) 44 dtex. Using an elastic fiber warped at a draft rate of 80%, a knitted fabric having a half structure was knitted under the following knitting conditions.

'' Knitting machine: 28 gauge Z 2.54 cm tricot knitting machine

Organization: Front 10/4, Back 12 Z 10

'Runner length: Front 250mm' Work 80mm 'On-board course: 81 course / 2.54 cm

The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to relax scouring at 90 ° C for 1 minute, and was pre-set at 190 ° C for 45 seconds. Set density during preset to 110 courses / 2.54. 111> and 6 0 © E Ichiru ^/ / 2. 5 4 cm, was stained with liquid flow dyeing machine after Purese' door. After that, a finishing set was performed to set the number of courses at preset to 0.54 cm and the number of rolls to Z 2.54 cm to obtain a finished one-way warp knitted fabric. The finished soft warp knitted fabric has a basis weight of 280 g / m ^{2 and a} thickness of 0.2 mm. Table 1 shows the results of various physical property evaluations.

The finished knitted fabric is not yellowed, has a soft texture, does not cause curling, has excellent setability, and has excellent brushing properties. It was an elastic warp knitted fabric that was optimal for preparation.

(Comparative Example 7)

The knitted fabric was knitted in the same manner as in Example 10 except that nylon 6 fiber 56 dtex / 36f was used as the front. Although the finished knitted fabric has a soft texture, it is easily knitted, has curl, cannot obtain a sufficient depth, has poor moldability, has poor brushing properties, and is difficult to handle. I got it.

(Comparative Example 8)

A knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 10 except that the polyethylene left fiber 56 dtex Z36f was used as the front. This knitted fabric has good moldability, but is inferior in brushing properties, and has an unsuitable knitted fabric.

(Comparative Example 9)

Polyethylene Teflate late fiber 56 dtex / 36 f is used as the front, and the front runner and back runner are longer compared to Comparative Example 6 to create a coarse greige machine. And set the density during presetting to 94 courses / 2 The knitted fabric was adjusted in the same manner as in Example 9 except that the height was set to 0.54 cm and the thickness was changed to 60 mm Z2.54 cm.

Table 1 shows the evaluation of the finished knitted fabric. The finished knitted fabric does not yellow, but the texture is more flexible than that of Comparative Example 6, but there is no slimy feeling unique to nylon. This is an unsuitable knitted fabric for inner use, in which curls with poor moldability and brushed quality occurred.

Table 1 Knitted fabric components, knitting conditions, properties and performance evaluation

Type of thread used (F) V Runner K: Knitting property Wind knitting Brush β / Brush Υ IΥ 1 value lis. 1 Φ

Fiber Fineness Amplitude 2.5cm (F) Per unit thickness Thickness C / w / c / w Difference in thickness Thickness uniform dtex mm g / m ² 2.5 2.5 2.5

Fiber

1 PTT 40 2 ί10 28 160 90 170 0.61 110 60 1.83 5 5 0.6 〇 ― ―

2PTT 40 2 if 28 155 90 158 0.57 116 60 1.93 5 5 0.6 〇 '― ―

3 PTT 40 2 Gold 28 170 90 190 0.64 94 60 1.55 4 4 0.6 〇 ― ― Actual 4 PTT 40 2 $ t 28 160 80 181 0.62 109 60 1.81 5 5 0.6 〇 ― ―

5 PTT 40 2 ί10 28 160 95 177 0.65 102 60 1.70 5 5 0.6 〇 I ― 6 PTT 40 2 ί10 36 126 76 138 0.51 180 80 2.25 5 5 0.6 〇 ― ―

7 PTT 40 2 needles 36 122 75 149 0.56 188 80 2.35 5 4 0.6 〇 ― ― Example 8 PTT 40 2 ί10 36 135 80 135 0.51 148 80 1.85 5 5 0.6 〇 ― ―

9 PTT 56 2 stitches 28 165 80 227 0.66 115 60 1.92 5 5 0.6 〇 0.78 針

10 PTT 56 3 stitches 28 190 璩 i St ^s 80 250 0.70 113 60 1.88 4 5 0.6 〇 0.83

11 PTT 56 4 needles 28 220 80 280 0.72 110 60 1.83 4 5 0.6 〇

1 PTT 40 2 stitches 28 160 70 191 0.67 142 60 2.37 3 1 0.6 〇

2 PTT 40 2 needle 28 186 90 162 0.58 91 60 1.52 4 2 0.6 X

3 PTT 40 2 needles 36 141 98 132 0.50 123 80

Ratio 1.54 3 1 0.6 〇

4 PTT 40 2 needles 36 120 71 155 0.58 190 80 2.38 4 2 0.6 X

Ugao father 5 NY 40 2 needle 28 160 90 161 0.67 110 60 1.83 3 1 10.4 X 0.77 X

6 PET 40 2 needle 28 160 90 162 0.68 115 60 1.92 1 4 0.6

Example 〇 0.70 X

7 NY 56 3 needle 28 190 80 251 0.71 113 60 1.88 3 1 10.4 X 0.80 X

8 PET 56 3 needles 28 190 80 253 0.70 112 60 1.87 1 4 0.6 〇 0.75 X

9 PET 56 2 needles 28 170 90 130 0.64 94 60 1.56 3 1 0.6 X 0.70 X

Industrial applicability

The two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention does not have yellowing, has a soft texture, has a unique surface touch that cannot be obtained with a knitted fabric using a narrow mouth fiber, and suppresses curling. Since it has a warp-knitted fabric, it has excellent handling properties such as sewing, and is a stretchable warp-knitted fabric ideal for sports such as innerwear, swimwear, and outer clothing.

Claims

The scope of the claims

1. A warp-knitted structure in which the front is mixed with polymethylene teratate fibers and the knocks are elastic fibers. A two-way warp knitted fabric having a density ratio of 1.55 to 2.35.

(Expression)

Number of courses / 2.5 cm

Knitted fabric density ratio =

Ale number Z 2.5 .4 cm

2. The heavy warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn of the back forms a knit loop.

3. The two-way warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warp knitting structure is a half structure.