WO2008040167A1

WO2008040167A1 - A garment patterns designing and mapping method according to the plane structure of a structure plane graph

Info

Publication number: WO2008040167A1
Application number: PCT/CN2007/002746
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yanju Deng
Original assignee: Yanju Deng
Priority date: 2006-09-18
Filing date: 2007-09-18
Publication date: 2008-04-10
Also published as: CN101006873B; CN101006873A

Abstract

A garment patterns designing and mapping method according to the plane structure of a structure plane graph, comprising the following steps. First, designing and mapping the garment patterns according the plane structure of the structure plane graph on which a XOY geometric plane, part points, garment parts, mean lines, calculating formulas for garment parts, design formulas for garment parts, part points disintegrating formula, darts and pleats, construction lines and suture lines are set. The first step comprises: selecting the proportion according to the standard grade to draw the grade graph for the garment pattern; selecting the appropriate loosening amounts to assure the garment number model; selecting the number model according to the garment number model to draw the number model for the garment pattern. Second, selecting the adjusted value according to the bodily form, garment style outline and modeling expressivity to design and draw the style for the garment pattern.

Description

Method for drawing pattern of garment pattern according to plane structure of a structural plan view

The present invention relates to a garment pattern design drawing method according to a planar structure of a structural plan view; more specifically, the present invention relates to a garment pattern according to a plane structure of a garment structure plan view in which an XOY geometric plane or the like is disposed. Pattern, step and number design drawing method. Background ife^

The existing armored structure design, from the beginning of its establishment, has been formed by experience alone; only know the results, I do not know the reason: For example, I do not know the location of the same part of the point, the pattern of the pattern of clothing pattern retractable 1CM and The reason for gambling and retracting 0.5CM. Another example is the application of planar geometry and mathematical formulas: focusing on the study and analysis of the human body's irregular solid surfaces, and the relationship with the body shape; while ignoring the research and analysis of the plane shape of the clothing pattern, and the relationship with the body type: as on the basis of the body type The shape of the outer shape of the garment is expressed in the form of a shape, and the shape of the outer surface of the body is supplemented with a lack of beauty; the design of the pattern of the garment is performed according to the shape and shape of the garment; the decoration of the irregular surface of the body.

Therefore, it is considered that geometric and mathematical formula calculation methods and analysis cannot be applied in structural design; thus hindering the continuous improvement of the armored pattern design drawing method and continuing development towards standardization, standardization, formatting, automation, and CAD. Summary of the invention

The object of the present invention is to provide a plane structure according to a plan view of a garment structure in which an X0Y geometric plane or the like is set; according to the shape and shape of the garment, the shape expression, the specification difference and the number; respectively, the adjustment value, the proportion and the number are selected. Design drawing method for the pattern, the difference and the number of the clothing pattern.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a plan view of a garment structure in which a X0Y geometric plane or the like is provided on a plan view of a structure. The object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions; it comprises the following steps:

(1) Set on a plan view of a garment structure: 1) X0Y geometric plane; 2) part point: 3) part; 4) bisector; 5) part calculation formula; 6) part design formula; 7) part point Decomposition formula; 8) province and pleats; 9) structural lines and sutures.

(2) According to the plane structure of the garment structure plan of the X0Y geometric plane, etc., the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing of the clothing pattern are carried out:

1) According to the size difference of the armored design, select the same ratio as the clothing part; to carry out the drawing of the clothing pattern;

2) According to the shape and shape of the garment, moderately choose the appropriate amount of clothing; to determine the type of the single piece of clothing:

3) According to the type of clothing, select the same type as the clothing type; to carry out the type drawing of the clothing pattern; confirm this 4) The performance of the shape and shape of the body type and clothing, and the same adjustment value as the shape and shape of the body shape and clothing; the pattern design for the clothing pattern:

1. On the plan view of the number structure, according to the specification number of the garment, form a plan view of the specification structure;

2. On the plan of the specification structure, according to the shape and shape of the garment, the shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the armor pattern is decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; structure line design drawing Four steps;

3. According to the shape and shape of the body shape and the shape of the garment; at the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retract or select the appropriate size; to design the pattern of the clothing pattern.

(3) Performing a design drawing of the clothing pattern or a shape copy of the garment on the clothing model map:

1) First, according to the specifications of the clothing and the type of the pattern, form a plan of the specification structure;

2) Then, according to the shape, the shape of the garment, or the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the garment pattern is drawn.

(4) According to the gear gap and the type of the clothing on the clothing model map, carry out the pattern and pattern drawing of the pattern of the clothing pattern of the clothing - according to the gear difference of the clothing, select the clothing in the gear number card of the part point The type difference card with the same position difference; according to the type of the clothing, select the same type scale on the number card of the part point. among them:

(1) A plan view of a garment structure in which a X0Y geometric plane or the like is respectively disposed on a structural plan view; as described below: The garment pattern design drawing method is calculated according to the planar structure of the structural plan (such as a frame drawing, etc.). . The garment structure plan is the basis of the prototype drawing of the existing garment proportional drawing method and the prototype drawing method. ■ Improvement: If the XOY geometric plane is set and the concept of the garment structure is established, it is like the flat garment pattern of the three-dimensional clothing. Change model: For example, the shape of the pattern of the garment pattern, the number of the difference and the size of the pattern are all halved according to the bisector of its plane structure; the adjustment value, the proportion and the number of the formula are calculated; The shape of the pattern of the flat clothing, the number of the difference and the size of the number; the shape of the three-dimensional clothing, the number of the difference and the size of the size.

The plan view of the garment structure refers to the plane structure diagram of a series of styles of clothing: it is the plane unfolding and basic pattern of the series of three-dimensional garments of the human body appearance; it is the pattern shape, the number of the difference and the number of the pattern of the style of the clothing A plane variation model of the change in size. The floor plan of the garment structure is classified according to the plane structure system of the clothing pattern: for example, the shirt body, the sleeves, the collar, the bag, the bottom of the body, the skirt, etc. The style of the garment is different from that of the garment pattern structure. The shape of the plan is different from its plane structure; for example, the shape and plane structure of the shirt and suit structure plan.

The position on the plan view of the plane armor structure and the position of the point on the suture line correspond to the position on the corresponding three-dimensional garment and the position of the point on the suture line; for example, the front leg portion 13 and the suture on the plan view of the male trousers structure The upper front foot portion point 9 corresponds to the position of the front crotch portion on the corresponding male trousers and the front crotch portion of the suture.

1) XOY geometric plane as shown in Figure 1; XOY geometric plane set on the garment structure plan; as follows: Since the present invention is based on the shape and shape of the garment, the number of the gears and the size of the size: the adjustment value, the proportion and the number of the type; the pattern shape of the clothing pattern, the number of the difference and the size of the design. Therefore, in theory, the plan view of the garment structure is a X0Y plan view; the top is taken with the chest circumference β as a parameter, and the hip pack 以下 of the present invention is taken as a parameter.

2) The point of the part as shown in Fig. 2; The point of the part set on the plan view of the garment structure: as follows:

Location point: The diagonal point on the plan of the garment structure, the position of the turning point: the point that determines the size of the garment; since the point is the point on both ends of the structure line, the point is also the point on the structural line; Site 1.

The position of the site point determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; determines the shape and shape of the figure and the appearance of the garment.

3) The part as shown in Fig. 2; the part set on the plan view of the garment structure; as follows:

Part: The position of the face or line; on the plan view of the garment structure, it also indicates the position between the two points.

The length of the part determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; determines the specifications of the garment; wherein: the upper part of the bust, such as the front chest circumference; the lower part of the hip, such as the front hip width 12: for the 搌定搌型型The part of the (finger type).

4) bisector as shown in Fig. 1; bisector provided on the plan view of the garment structure; as described below - bisector: bisector change symbol on the base line on the structural plan;

The bisector regulates the shape of the pattern on the plan view of the garment structure, the number of shifts, and the change in the size of the number.

5) The part as shown in Fig. 2; The calculation formula for the part set on the plan view of the garment structure: as follows:

Part calculation formula: The mathematical formula for calculating the length of the part with the parameters of the part as parameters.

Since the front wide part 12 is calculated by the formula: For example: 1/4H-1 and forefoot width 13 calculation formula: The width of the trousers is 2, and the variables are: 1/4 inch, trouser width: and fixed number: one, one, two hours - Therefore, the expression of the part calculation formula is:

6) The part as shown in Fig. 2; The design formula of the part set on the plan view of the garment structure: As described in Τ:

Part design formula: On the structural plan, the mathematical formula for calculating the length of the part with one parameter as the parameter. Due to the part design formula, for example: Front hip width design formula: 1/4ΪΙ一 i

When it is broken down into: 1 means the adjustment value; 1/4 means the ratio; H means the number type;

Therefore, the expression of the part design formula is - proportional X type + adjusted value.

Among them, the proportion is determined by the calculation of the gear position difference; the design formula is determined by the length and the length of the part; meanwhile, the ratio indicates the difference of the 1CM type of the part of the garment pattern. The proportions in the design formula are different, and the difference in the pattern of the clothing pattern is different; the size of the clothing pattern is different depending on the type; the adjustment values are different, and the pattern of the clothing pattern is different.

Since the traditional bottom-loading design drawing is based on the parameter hip circumference H; it involves calculating the front ridge width formula: The concept of 1/4H-1 cannot be changed at once; if the parameter waist circumference W is explained, the relative increase is complicated by the description of the present invention. Sex: Therefore, this example is based on the parameter range H as an example. However, in fact, such as the national stock type standard, the bottom is based on the waist W; the difference of the parts of the parts relative to the waist size specification such as 4CM or 2CM changes: body type Y, A, B, C s difference, The relative difference values of the respective parts are different. Therefore, in fact, whether the bottom loading is based on the waist W is more suitable; for example, designing a trousers model with the waist w as a parameter, in which the different body types Y> A can be selected according to the specifications of the clothing. , B, C type of the difference type card; to select the type Y, A, B, C type of clothing pattern of the file. Also, the coma of the length of the pants of the present invention is 0 and 2, and the difference of the hips is not used as the example of 3. 2, 3. 6 to explain the reason for the gear mapping.

7) The part point as shown in Fig. 2; the part point decomposition formula set on the plan view of the garment structure; as follows -.

Part point decomposition formula: A mathematical formula for calculating the position of a point on a structure and a point on a structure line on a structural plan. The decomposition formula of the site point, for example: The decomposition formula of the point 1 of the front waist point - X = - (1/10H - 0. 3) and Y = 1/4H Since, when it is decomposed into: 0. 3 and 0 Adjustment value; 1/10 and 1/4 indicate the ratio; H indicates the number type; therefore, the expression formula of the part point decomposition formula is: X = ratio X type + adjustment value and Y = ratio X type + adjustment value. Since the adjustment values, proportions, and numbers are also standardized for the pattern, the gear difference, and the number design drawing of the clothing pattern; therefore, for the convenience of explanation, the expressions of the part design formula and the part point decomposition formula are also the same: Proportion X type + Adjust the value.

The part point decomposition formula and its proportion are determined by the part design formula and its proportion and bisector calculation. At the same time, the ratio indicates the difference of the 1CM type profile of the part of the clothing pattern; the proportion of the part point decomposition formula is different, the pattern of the clothing pattern The difference is somewhat different; the size of the clothing pattern is different depending on the type; the adjustment value is different, and the style of the clothing pattern is different.

8) Province and pleats as shown in Fig. 2; provinces and pleats set on the plan view of the garment structure: as follows: province 41 and pleats 42 as shown in Fig. 2; for convenience of explanation, it is assumed that the structure plan is set in the province And examples of pleats. Province: After the stitching is omitted; it includes the dividing line, the extension of the province; and the princess line, an expression of the dividing line. On the plan view of the garment structure, the province is an expression method of the garment according to the shape and shape of the garment; the province set according to the shape and shape of the garment, its saving, position, quantity, direction The shape, and the position of the points on the provincial road are different in size or size. The shape of the part or the whole of the garment is different.

The province belongs to a style of expression of the shape of the garment; the stitching forms a line; the shape of the garment that expresses the appearance of the figure represents the natural, easy-going, and beautiful curve.

Pleated: pleating, folding and overlapping; different shapes and forms such as waves; assumed to be an expression of pleats: by pleating, folding and overlapping; position, number, direction, form of pleats, The relationship between the pleats and the ridges is formed.

On the plan view of the garment structure, the pleats are an expression of the garment according to the shape and shape of the garment; the pleats set according to the shape and shape of the garment, its pleats, position, The number, direction, and shape of the garment are different from the shape or shape of the garment.

Pleated: A representation of the shape of a garment; the pleats, folds, and overlaps increase the space of the corresponding part to form a partial or overall shape of the garment's exterior; the garments that represent the appearance of the body The shape and shape of the style is free, relaxed and romantic.

9) the structural line of Figure 1; the structural lines and sutures provided on the plan view of the garment structure; as follows: Structure line: The line connecting the points on the structure plan, the line that determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure. Suture: The sewing position on the garment pattern on the plan view; since the features of the suture are the same as those of the structural line: therefore, for ease of explanation, the description of the suture is omitted. At the same time, the point 53 is narrowed on the structure line 34 as shown in Fig. 4 _; for convenience of explanation: an example of assuming that the contour line is directly retracted or selected at the position of the point on the structure line.

In theory, the structural line consists of an infinite number of points; the position of each point determines the shape of the plan of the garment structure; determines the shape of the garment. Since the structural line is a line that determines the shape of the surface pattern of the garment structure; therefore, in addition to the description, the structural line includes its own and the points of the ends (such as the front waist point 1), the set provincial point and the pleated point, and the province The base line, as set, is the reference line on the structural plan.

(2) According to the plane structure of the service structure plan which sets the X0Y geometric plane, etc., the pattern, the gear and the design of the clothing pattern are drawn; as follows:

The design drawing of the clothing pattern is the design shape of the pattern of the clothing pattern, the number of the difference and the design drawing of the size. The pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing of the clothing pattern; respectively, refer to the pattern design pattern drawing of the single-piece type clothing, the pattern clothing pattern drawing of other specifications of the clothing, and the pattern clothing pattern drawing of other specifications type clothing.

The design drawing method of the clothing pattern is improved on the basis of the existing clothing drawing method; for example, the design drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the structural plan of setting the X0Y geometric plane; the style shape modeling of the clothing, the number of the difference and the number The size of the design drawing; as in the clothing pattern plane change model, the pattern shape of the clothing pattern, the number of the difference and the size design drawing. For example, it chooses the adjustment value, the proportion and the number of the formula in the calculation formula; to select the style shape, the number of the difference and the size of the pattern of the clothing pattern; to design the pattern, the difference and the number of the pattern of the clothing pattern. .

1) According to the gear difference of the clothing, select the same proportion as the difference of the clothing part; to carry out the drawing of the pattern of the clothing pattern: the drawing method of the existing clothing pattern design is the drawing of the pattern without the clothing pattern; therefore, the existing clothing pattern The grading method can only be the grading of a set of clothing. However, the clothing stall is not a fixed group, there are more than one group: for example, the clothing type standard Y, A, B, C type body: region (country); such as the clothing stalls introduced by the book; the clothing stalls provided by the merchants.

The present invention only needs to select the same ratio as the formula in the decomposition formula according to the gear difference of the garment; to select the gear difference of the clothing pattern. Since the part point type card is classified according to the position difference of the clothing, the pattern drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the model map - the same file as the clothing part is selected according to the gear difference of the clothing in the part point difference number card. The difference type card; for example, in the number difference type cards (1) and (2) of the front foot portion point 9 on the model diagram of Fig. 5, the difference number type card (2) is selected.

The gear difference is 0! If the length of the pants is .0, regardless of the type H (such as 103), the length of the pants is always the same 103.

2) According to the shape shape of the 0 model, moderately select the appropriate amount of clothing to relax, to determine the type of clothing: the design of the clothing paper, first in the design of the single-piece clothing pattern design and sample modification Then carry out the mapping of the gears and numbers of other clothing patterns. The invention expresses the shape and the amount of relaxation of the garment according to the shape of the garment. Change the relationship, from narrow to wide, moderately choose the appropriate amount of clothing relaxation; to determine the type of a single piece of clothing. For example, in the men's trousers between 4 - 24CM, choose a relaxation amount of 14CM, select a single male trousers type 104;

3) According to the type of clothing, choose the same type as the clothing type; the type drawing of the clothing pattern - the existing clothing pattern design drawing method is not the pattern drawing of the clothing pattern, but the clothing pattern Grading; clothing pattern grading method is in the industrial production of clothing, in order to reduce the number of garments above two types of clothing pattern errors and errors; and the invention of a set of only a standard deviation and a set of numbers Type of clothing pattern grading method; the whole process is full of experience components. Can only specify a set of clothing pattern of the gear map, such as the length of the pants 2, can not simultaneously carry another set of pattern with the pattern of the gap, such as the length of the pants is 0; the specified set of clothing pattern number Type drawing, such as number 100, 104, 108, can not carry out arbitrary, random clothing pattern type drawing, such as number 102, 104, 105, 108, 112 and so on.

However, the type of clothing is not fixed only one or a group: such as the type standard: the type of the body is different, its type (finger type, such as hip circumference) is different; in the same body type, the function of the clothing, the amount of relaxation Different, its type is different: the specification of the clothing: such as 2CM or 4CM, its choice of the type is different; the size of the area is different, its type is different.

However, the present invention only needs to select the same type as the decomposition formula according to the type of the garment; to select the type of the clothing pattern. Since the part point type card is drawn according to the type of the clothing, the type pattern drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the model drawing - the same type scale is selected on the type card according to the type of the clothing; for example, if selected Type 104, 108.

4) According to the style of the mother's clothing, the pattern design of the clothing pattern: According to the shape and shape of the clothing, the shape and shape of the clothing and the shape of the clothing are selected to be the same adjustment value; the design of the pattern of the clothing pattern is: The style shape representation of a garment refers to the expression of the shape of the exterior of a garment worn on the body. The method of drawing pattern design of garment pattern refers to the appearance of the appearance of the garment expressed by the designer according to the shape and shape of the garment as imagined; the process of drawing it into the pattern of pattern, the difference and the pattern of the garment; instead of the garment of the appearance of the garment design.

According to the shape and shape of the clothing, the pattern is designed to make the pattern design of the clothing pattern; it is based on the body type: according to the shape and shape of the shape of the moon, and the shape of the figure of the garment structure is changed. Pattern design drawing. For example: on the specification structure plan 615 of the model diagram of Fig. 7; according to the different choices of the position of the front knee point 7, the front side seam point 8, the front foot point 9, and the front side stitch point 10; The shape and shape of the ordinary, straight, and horn shapes of the trousers; the design of the ordinary, straight, and horn pattern of the men's trousers.

A. The pattern design drawing of the clothing paper pattern firstly forms the plan structure plan according to the specifications of the clothing; then, on the plan structure plan, the pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern is performed according to the shape and the shape of the clothing.

B. The pattern design drawing of the g-loading pattern according to the figure, the shape and shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment will be decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; structure drawing design Steps: With the present invention, the design drawing of the shape of the different styles of the garment is carried out on the plan structure of the same plane structure.: Due to the different styles of the designed garments, the pattern of the garment is different. Different shapes; in The plane distribution on the structure plan is different; its distribution surface can be part of it; it can be all of it.

For example, in the plan structure of a blouse, when designing a series of blouses, off-the-shoulders, and dews of the same plane structure, the distribution surface may be part of the frame diagram; or it may be All.

C. Because of the shape and shape of the garment, the shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the garment pattern is made; in the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retract or select the appropriate size: to design the pattern of the garment pattern Cartography; therefore, the designer only needs to: According to the style of the clothing, the shape of the design is set and the pleats; the position of the point is limited by the clothing specifications, the points on the structure line are not limited; how much is placed at the position of the point The change in the shape and shape of the garment can be in accordance with one's own imagination; the pattern design of the garment pattern is performed in the style of the desired garment; for example, at the position of the front waist of the front waist of FIG. Retract and choose.

The appearance and shape of the garment is imagined by human beings; with the invention, the designer can fully inspire and innovate according to his own imagination and concept: to determine the shape of the single garment through the amount of relaxation of the garment Set the province and pleats; the point size, the size of the points on the structure line are retracted or selected, and the causal relationship with the style shape of the garment to determine the shape of the clothing pattern; , the shape of the shape of the appropriate clothing.

D. The practical experience of the so-called clothing design drawing; which refers to the shape and shape of the clothing, the appropriate amount of relaxation for the appropriate clothing; moderately retracting or selecting the appropriate size at the point position; this modest and appropriate design Practical experience. At the same time, since the "moderate and appropriate" of each step of the present invention is based on the number (number); therefore, each success and failure, while at the same time, has been summed up for the next design drawing and preparation.

E. The graphic design drawing method of the garment is conceived on the structural plan, and the pattern is designed according to the shape and shape of the garment, and the pattern design is drawn by the pattern of the garment. The three-dimensional design drawing method of the garment is directly on the body model, and the pattern design drawing of the garment pattern is performed according to the shape and shape of the garment: the cloth sheet is the same as the specification structure plan on the body model, and the clothing pattern is performed. The shape of the shape represents the design of the drawing. For example: On the body model: the upper bust or the bottom hip is the size of the garment; the appropriate amount of relaxation is selected to determine the size of the garment; the provincial and pleated settings are the shape of the garment. The appearance of a form of appearance; the position of the site, the length of the site is limited by the size of the garment; the points on the structure line are not limited: the imagination and concept of the shape of the garment according to the shape of the garment, at the point The position of the edge line is gradually retracted, and the size is appropriately selected; the pattern design for the clothing pattern is drawn. And on the model map, carry out the gap and number mapping of other clothing patterns.

(3) Performing a design drawing of the garment or copying the shape of the garment on the garment model map; and (4) performing the pattern on the garment model diagram, the other gears of the paper cassette and the type drawing; as follows:

Figure 5 is a male trousers model diagram according to a step (1) to set the XOY geometric plane and other structural plans, in the form of data and charts, pre-printed (product) or drawn; as in Figure 5 male trousers Follow step (2) on the model diagram: • M: Ao 1 - Back to κ ( ^ 亍闺于迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃迸仃制制制。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。 (product) or drawing a model diagram; then drawing the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing on the model diagram. In the "clothing plane drawing method and clothing model diagram" invented by the inventor Deng Yanzhao et al. Introduction: Its application number: 200510034077.1; Publication number: C 1765248A.

Step (3), on the model map: According to the style of the clothing pattern, the drawing is based on the shape of the garment to make the pattern design of the garment pattern; according to the reproduction of the garment, the pattern of the garment pattern is made according to the shape of the copied garment.

The invention is further improved and improved on the basis of the "clothing plane drawing method and the clothing model diagram" invented by the inventor; after having the concept of the invention; the clothing model diagram is like the pattern of the clothing pattern of the series of style garments. , Variance and number change models and design drawing tools; 3⁄43⁄4 loading pattern design drawing on the model drawing is the same as selecting the pattern of the clothing pattern, the gear difference and the number on the clothing pattern model. For example: the pattern of the clothing pattern, at the front waist point point 1 select the position of the point 52 (. Figure 4); the pattern of the clothing pattern, in the front foot part point 9 differential number card U) and (2) Select the type difference type card (2) (Fig. 5) _; the type of the clothing pattern, select the number scale 108 on the 1st type card on the waist point (Fig. 5):

A. The style of the clothing: Although the shape and shape of the clothing are ever-changing in different generations, regions, and fashions, in fact, in the plan view of the series of styles of the same plane structure, only the positions of the pattern points and the points on the structure line are different.

B. The gears of the clothing. · Although the specifications of the clothing: with the merchant; the standard; the area; the difference in the position of the clothing; in fact, the model is only the difference in the position of the card The choice of type card is different;

C. The type of clothing: Although, with the function of the clothing, such as the ground 12 warm and cold; the shape of the clothing is shaped like tight and loose; the amount of relaxation of the clothing is different; the size of the clothing is different (the size of the single piece of clothing); On the number card of each part of the model diagram, only the position of the type scale is different (the type of the single piece of clothing).

Although, such as the requirements of merchants, the standard of the type, the size of the size of the body; the size of the clothing is different; in fact, on the number card of each part of the model map, only the position of the selected type scale is different. (Other types of clothing types). The invention has the design pattern of the pattern, the gear difference and the number pattern of the clothing pattern, the reason, the level and the cause and effect are distinct; the quantity (the number> is based on the number; the advantage of the one-way Belden; and the drawing design of the armor and the clothing pattern at the same time Standardization, standardization, formatting, automation, and CAD provide methods and basis. For example; application in garment CAD - combined with computer mathematical formulas to calculate the advantages of fast, flat shape changes; for example, to establish site decomposition on the screen The number of formulas (numbers) and the shape of the garment structure (clothing pattern) The shape of the graph changes the model; the model of the garment model is created, and the virtual model of the garment is changed: for example, on the screen, according to the specifications of the garment The gear difference and the specification number form the specification structure plane lock ^ Select the ratio in the formula of the calculation part point decomposition formula to select the deviation of the armor pattern: from narrow to wide, moderately select the appropriate amount of relaxation to determine the clothing number The size of the type; select the same position point position as the number in the part point decomposition formula To select the type of garment pattern number according to the size, shape modeling performance clothing style: Set Province and pleats; at the position of the point, moderately retract or select the same lateral value or vertical value size; at the position of the point, retract or select the same size; from receiving, moderately received Put or choose the appropriate size; to design the pattern of the clothing pattern, etc. Then through the computer output to get the desired variety of styles, gears and numbers of clothing patterns.

The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments. Well punch description

Figure 1 shows a schematic representation of the XOY plane, bisectors, structural lines and sutures on a plan view of the garment structure. Figure 2 shows a schematic view of the location points, locations, provinces and pleats on the plan view of the garment structure.

Fig. 3 is a schematic plan view showing a plan view of a series of style garment structures in which an XOY plane or the like is set.

Figure 4 shows the figure of the male and female trousers according to the shape and shape of the male trousers on the plan view 51 of the specification structure. The pattern of the male trousers designed and drawn by the pattern of the trousers of the male trousers (contour 54).

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing a plan view of a numbered structure formed on the model map according to the step 1 and the number 104 of Table 1. Fig. 6 is a view showing a plan view of the specification structure in accordance with the specifications of Table 2 on the plan view 61 of the type structure of Fig. 5. Fig. 7 is a view showing a plan view 6 of the specification structure of Fig. 6 formed on the specifications of Fig. 6.

(Fig. 5, 6 > 7 is a schematic diagram of the model diagram, which is a schematic diagram of the model diagram in the "clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model diagram" invented by the inventor; wherein the point pattern and the number line of each part on the model diagram ( Card), drawn in a ratio of 1:1)

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS A specific embodiment will be described below to illustrate a method for patterning a garment pattern design according to a planar structure of a structural plane of the present invention.

The invention takes the male trousers front piece (excluding the waist position 4CM) as an example to illustrate the garment pattern design drawing method. For convenience of explanation, in the embodiment, it is assumed that the ratio of the male trousers cutting diagram of FIG. 4 and the model diagram of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7 are both 1: 1; the model drawings of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7 are pre-printed (product ) or drawn clothing pattern design drawing tools. .

C1) Refer to Figure 3 for a plan view of the plan view of the series of male trousers. It consists of Figure 1 and Figure 2 on the structural plan: 1) X0Y geometric plane; 2) part point; 3) part; 4) Equidistant line; 5) Part calculation formula; 6) Part design formula; 7) Part point decomposition formula. 8) Province and pleats; 9) Structure lines and sutures.

(2) Please refer to Figures 5, 6, 7 and Figure 4: Since 61 of Figures 5 and 6 are assumed to be Table 1 Specifications: Plan view of the type 104 of the gear difference 1; 61; Figure 51 of the structure of Figure 4 and Figure 7 The structural plan view 615 is also assumed to be a plan view 51 or 615 of the specification structure formed on the No. 10 structure plan view 61 in accordance with the specification of Table 2; therefore, for the sake of clarity, the male trousers of the series of Figures 5, 6, and 7 are used. 61 and 615 of the model diagram illustrate, by way of example, a method of forming a plan view of a specification structure in accordance with the planar structure of the structural plan view of the garment of Fig. 3 and the specifications of the garment of Table 2. 2) Taking the structural plan views 51 and 54 of Fig. 4 as an example, a description will be given of a pattern design drawing method according to the shape of the garment in the plan view of the specification structure, the shape of the garment, and the pattern of the garment (forming the contour map).

(3) Since the present invention relates to a garment pattern design drawing method, in order to facilitate the understanding and distinction of the schematic diagram: the bisector of Figure 1 is preceded by a number of 2; the structural line is preceded by a number of 3; The number of the part: the number of the part calculation formula, the design formula, and the part point decomposition formula; the number of the part point and the part number in the "clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model drawing" invented by the inventor; The province and the pleats are preceded by a number of 4; Figure 4 shows the steps in the garment pattern profile 54 on the male trousers specification structure plan 51, plus 5 before the number _; Figure 5, 6, 7 clothing model diagram Above, the relationship between the pattern shape of the plan view of the garment structure and the point decomposition formula of the part is explained: and the step in forming the plan view 615 of the specification structure in the plan view 61 is added, and 6 is added before the number.

Figure 3 The specifications and specifications of the front plan structure of the men's and women's trousers series are shown in Table 1 - Table 1: Unit: CM, Hip: H; Waist: W (length of pants including waist 4CM)

There are two sets of specifications in Table 1. It means that there are two sets of part design formulas or part point decomposition formulas for selection at the same part or part point; and there are two sets of differential type in the same part of the model diagram of Figure 5. Cards (1) and (2) are available for selection.

The waist area is not marked with the size. When the male trousers are designed and drawn, the waist size is selected according to the specifications of the men's trousers. The clothing specifications as shown in Table 1 and Table 2: The specification number refers to the size of each part of the garment; The specification of the difference: Refer to the male and female body type series control numerical value table, which refers to the size of each part of the garment relative to a specification. . The number of the present invention, for convenience of explanation, refers to the number of circumferences that determine the size of the garment, as described above as the bust B and the bottom as the hips H.

In fact, the type of clothing (the number and type of clothing) depends on the specifications of the clothing being designed.

Table 2: Unit: CM Hips: H; Waist: W (Pants Length includes Carving 4CM)

Assume that the specification number of Table 2 is based on the shape of the male trousers and is determined to be the most appropriate. Assume that the specification number and specification difference of Table 3⁄4i is the intermediate specification number and specification of the standard body type of the series of male trousers; Table 2 male trousers specifications are an example of the invention: Figure 5, it On the structural plan view 61 of the specification number type and the specification difference 1 of Table 1, it may be a part of the structural plan view, or it may be all of them. The method for drawing a garment pattern design according to a planar structure of a structural plane comprises the following steps:

(1) A plan view of the garment structure such as the XOY geometric plane is set on the plan view of the garment structure:

1) Set the XOY geometry plane on the garment structure plan as shown in the XOY geometry plane of Figure 1:

For example: As shown in Figure 4, the male trousers are cut out. On the structural plan, the horizontal traverse line 18 is set to the X axis, the front midline 19 is the Y axis, and the intersection point is the X0Y geometric plane of O. The theoretical basis of the present invention is to apply the principle of linear equations in the patterning of the garment pattern; to calculate and analyze the position of the point on the structure point and the line on the xoy geometric plane of the plan of the garment structure; Design drawings for styles, gears and numbers.

For example, the part point decomposition formula is expressed as: X=adjustment value+proportion X number type and Y=adjustment value+proportion X number type; is a parameter equation of a set of straight lines; appears as a straight line on the XOY geometric plane: root The principle of the parametric equation of the line: For example: Chen Tongxin, Liu Jialu, etc.; Mathematical Dictionary; Beijing: Surveying and Mapping Press; 1982 (1037) Α. Adjustment value: This line is adjusted (P!: X). Yi );

B. Proportion: The slope of this line is proportional/proportional (B/A);

C. Type: The number point is on this line (this feature is calculated and plotted on the plan according to the part point decomposition formula; please refer to the "Fabric Plane Drawing Method and Its Garment Model Picture", such as the number on the type card Type scale 108 position; 2] page).

For example, taking the front waist point 1 and the front foot point 9 of the model diagram of FIG. 5 as an example, the principle of the parametric equation of the applied straight line in the garment pattern design drawing method is illustrated; for example, FIG. 5, in the model diagram X0Y On the geometric plan:

The decomposition formula of the anterior iliac crest site 1 is: X = - (1/10H-0. 3) and Y-1/4H; appears as a straight line on the X0Y geometric plan of the model diagram of Figure 5; It is the number card (or number line) of the front waist point.

A. The type card (this straight line) can move with the position of the front waist point 1 and 52 (Fig. 4);

B. The type card (this line) is classified into a gear number type card according to the ratio/proportion; for example, there are two groups of the number difference type card of the front foot part point 9 (1> and (2); In the difference type card, select the gear number card (1) or (2) according to the gear difference of the clothing:

C. The type is on the type card (this line): For example, the type 104 is on the type card with a scale of 1.04 (Fig. 5).

2) As shown in Figure 2, place points on the plan of the garment structure:

On the plan view of the garment structure, there is a group or more points decomposition formula for each part point - for example, the decomposition formula of the front waist point of the male trousers as shown in Fig. 4;

B. On the plan view of the garment structure, the position of the point is expressed according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment. When the point is placed, the same size is retracted or selected:

For example: the load of 4 garments indicates the point 1 of the moment of the waist, and after narrowing 1CM, the position 52 of the structure plan 51 _:

X=- { /10H ( 104) -0.3]- 1 } =-9.1 (Y=25: Straight depth 25CM is omitted)

In the formula: [1/10H ( 104) — 0.3] is the position of point 1 of the front waist, and -1 is the size of 1CM. c. The location of the site is limited by the size of the garment; if the province and pleats are placed on the floor plan of the garment structure, the location of the site is retracted or the same amount of pleats and pleats are selected. For example, in Fig. 4, the male trousers are cut out according to the shape of the male trousers, and the front waist width portion 11 is shown on the structural plan 51, and the province is set to 3 CM and the pleat 42 is 5 CM:

Front waist width 11 gauge length: 1/4W (72) - 1-17CM:

For example: Set the amount of 41 to 3CM, the amount of pleats 42 is to relax the part point or after selecting 8CM - the length of the front waist width 11 = 1/4W (72) - 1] + saving 3CM + pleat volume 5CM-25CM

The position of the site as shown in Fig. 2: the front waist point point 1; the front side waist point point 2; the front side hip site 3; the front side seam hip point 4; the front side of the filed point 5; the front side seam point point 6; the front knee joint point 7; the front side seam knee point point 8; the front foot foot point point 9; the front side seam foot point point 10.

3) As shown in Figure 2, place the part on the plan of the garment structure -

A. The length of the part of the garment pattern is limited by the size of the garment; the length of the part is retracted or the same size is selected: Take the illustration of the cut of the male trousers in Figure 4 as an example: Length of the front waist width U - 1/4W (72) — 1-17CM Set the amount of 41 (for hypothetical example) to 3CM and the pleats 42 (for hypothetical example) to 5CM after the width of the front waist width U - front waist width 11 length - [1/4W (72 )1]+saving 3CM+ pleats 5CM-25CM

The part of the bust and hips determines the shape (type) of the garment - the hips are as follows: if the front hip width of the current piece is 25CM - 1/4H-1: No. H (type) is 04CM .

B. Each part has a set of parts calculation formula:

For example - front foot width 13 front foot width one 2

C. Each part has one or more sets of part design formulas: Proportion X type + adjustment value.

Pants long part 16 (1) Design formula: Specifications difference 1, pants length difference 1/2H+46

Pants long part 16 (2) design formula, · Specifications difference 2, pants length difference 0: 100 (pants length fixed 100)

The position of other faces or lines is as follows: breast chest position, trousers part, etc.; front waist wide part 11, straight deep part 14 etc.; part of Fig. 2: front waist wide part 11; front hip wide part 12; front foot width Part 13; straight depth 14; front wide mouth 15; pants length 15.

4) as shown in the bisector of Figure 1, a bisector is placed on the plan view of the garment structure;

The pattern shape, the difference of the gear size and the change of the size of the pattern of the garment pattern are all changed according to the bisector; and together with the design formula, the part decomposition formula of the point is calculated and determined:

Take the front trousers width 13 and the front squat point 9 as an example - the front trousers 13 design formula: 1/8H+7.5; the bisector 23 is the second division:

A. Style change of the pattern of the clothing pattern plane - Such as the front trousers width 13 = 1 / 8H (104) + 7.5 = 20.5

Distance from front foot 9 to front midline 19 =[1/8H ( 104) +7.5]/2=10.25

B. The difference in the difference of the 1CM type of the pattern of the pattern of the garment pattern: such as the number 104 and the number 105,

(A) The difference between the 1CM type of the front foot width 13 and the 1CM type is 0.125CM (1/8):

Forefoot width 13-[1/8H (105) +7.5]-[1/8Η ( 104) +7.5]=20.625-20.5-0.125 ( 1/8)

(B) Front footing point 9 Position point position difference difference 0.0625CM (1/16):

Turning the foot 9: X-[1/16H ( 105 ) +3.75] -[1/16H ( 104)+3.75]=tO.3L25-10.25=0.O625 ( 1/16)

C. Change in the size of the pattern of the garment pattern: The change in the size of the pattern 104 and the number 108: The position of the front foot point 9: X — [1/16H (104) +3.75]=10.25; X =-[1/16H ( 108) +3.75]=10.5

D. Calculate and determine the site decomposition formula for the site point along with the design formula:

The X formula for the decomposition formula of the front ankle foot 9 is - the width of the front trousers is 13 ( 1/8 Η + 7.5) / 2 = - ( 1 / Ϊ 6 Η + 3.75) In the formula: One is the position on the X0Y plane, ( 1/8H+7.5) is the design formula for the front foot width B, and 2 is the second division. As shown in the bisector of Figure 1, the other bisectors: the front transverse width bisector 21, the front knee width bisector 22, the front hem width bisector 23, the front straight depth 24, the front middle cymbal, etc. Breakline 25.

5) As shown in Figure 2, set the calculation formula for the part on the plan of the garment structure:

Calculate the length of each part of the pattern of the garment pattern according to the specifications of the garment:

For example: Figure 4 The front foot width of the garment cutting diagram 13 The calculation formula of the part - the width of the pants is 2;

When the trouser width is =22C (the width of the trousers of Table 2), the width of the front trousers is 13=the width of the trousers is 2=20C

As shown in Figure 2, the calculation formula for other parts - front waist width part 1: 1/4W + province 裥 1; front hip width part 12 _:

1/4H-1, wide front part 13: front foot width - 2; straight deep part 14: 1/4H; front wide part 15 _: 1/20H-

I; length of the pants 16: pants length 104-4 (waist 4CM) = 100 _o

6) As shown in Figure 2, set the part design formula on the plan of the garment structure:

Calculate the length and the difference of the part according to the specifications of the garment; determine the shape of the pattern of the garment structure plan (clothing pattern), the number of the difference and the size of the type. Among them, the adjustment value is calculated and the length of the part of the part is determined; the number is calculated and the length of the part of the part is determined; the difference between the ratio calculation and the 1CM type of the determined part is different: The wide part 13 of the trousers is an example: The front foot wide part 13 is designed by the formula -1/8H+7.5

(A) The adjustment value is calculated and the length of the pattern part of the part is determined:

For example, when the 镔 value is 7.5, the length of the pattern part: 1/8H (104) +7.5=20.5 (the number H of Fig. 4 is 04)

(B) Type calculation and determination of the length of the type:

If the type is 108, the length of the pattern is: 1/8H (108) +7.5=21

(C) What is the difference between the calculated and determined ICM type: For example, if the number is 105 and the number is 104, the difference is:

The difference of the difference -[1/8H ( 105) +7.5]-[1/8Η ( 104) +7.5]=— 20.625— 20.5=0.125 ( 1/8) (2) Calculate and determine the part together with the bisector Point decomposition formula: Proportion X type + adjustment value;

For example: Calculate and determine the lateral calculation formula X of the pre-defective point 9 decomposition formula as an example: X formula for the decomposition formula of the front foot point 9: X=— [ ( 1/8H+7.5) /2]= - (l/16H+3.75)o In the formula: one is the position; 2 is the second division of the front hem bisector 23; (1/8H+7.5) is the design formula for the front hem width 13 .

As shown in Figure 2, the design formula of other parts: front waist wide part 1 〖= 1/4H-I; front hip wide part 12 = /4H-I; front foot wide part 13-1/8H+7.5; straight deep part 14-1/4H; front mouth wide part〗 1 (fixed); pants long part 16 (1) = 1/2 Η +46 (specification difference 1: pants length difference 2CM); pants long part 16 (2 = 100 (Specifications of the difference 2: pants length difference 0).

7) As shown in the location point of Figure 2, the decomposition formula of the part point is set on the plan view of the garment structure:

Calculate the position of each part of the clothing pattern and the point on the structural line on the X0Y geometric plane of the structural plan according to the specifications of the garment; determine the shape of the pattern of the garment structure plan (clothing pattern), the number of the difference and the number of the gear The size of the type. Wherein, the adjustment value is calculated and determined: the position of the pattern part of the clothing pattern, the position of the point on the structure line on the plan of the garment structure: the calculation of the number type and the determination of the point of the pattern pattern of the clothing pattern, and the point on the structure line on the plan of the garment structure Position: The ratio calculation and the difference between the 1CM number of the points on the pattern of the garment pattern and the points on the structure line:

For example, take the point 1 of the front foot part of the figure of the male trousers in Figure 5 as an example - the decomposition formula of the point 1 of the front waist part: X=—(1/10H-0.3) and Y=l/4H+0; =104CM

(A) The adjustment value is calculated and determined. The position of the point on the clothing paper pattern point and the line on the structure line is 62 on the XOY geometric plane of the structural plan view (the position of the number scale 104); the horizontal size data is 10.1, and the longitudinal size data is 26 :

X=-[1/10H ( 104) -0.3]=- 10.1 and Υ=1/4Η+0=26

(B) Type calculation and determination of the pattern pattern point of the garment pattern, the position of the point on the structure line on the X0Y geometric plane of the structure plan 65: For example: When the number H is 108, calculate the type H108 pattern The position is 65 on the figure structure plan 61 (the position of the scale scale 108); the lateral position 75 is! 0 The vertical position is 27-

X=~[1/10H ( 108) ·0.3 — 10.5 and Y-1/4H (108) +0=27

The CO ratio calculation and the difference between the position point of the clothing pattern and the point 1CH type on the structure line are different: For example: 1CM type transverse shift value 63 is 1/10 and 1CM type longitudinal gear difference 64 is 1/4CM; if and when H=104, its 1CM type lateral shift difference 1/10 and 1CM type longitudinal gear difference] / 4CM _:

1CM type horizontal shift difference 3 is 1/10CM= { -[1/10H (105) -03]}— {— ( 1/10H ( 104) -0.3)}

The 1CM type longitudinal gear difference 64 is 1/4CM-[1/4H ( 105) +0]-[1/4Η ( 104) +0]

As shown in Figure 2, the decomposition formula of other parts: the front waist point 1: X = - (1/10H-0. 3) and Y = 1/4H; the front side seam point 2: X-3 /20H-1 and Y=1/4H _; frontal buttocks 3: X=—(1/10H—0.3) and Y-1/12H; The anterior lateral hip site 4: X=3/20H-1 and Y=1/12H _{; the} anterior iliac site 5: X=—(3H/20—1.3) and 0 _{; the} anterior suture site 6: X=3H/20- 1. 3 and Y-0.

When the specification 裆1 is different: The trousers are 2cm in length: The front knee is 7: Χ=— (ί7/160Η+1. 525) and Υ=—(1/12H+23); 8: X-17/160H+1. 525 and Y=—(1/12H+23); point 9 in front of the foot: Χ= ― (1/16H+3. 75) and Y=— (1/4H +46); Front side seam point point 10: X-1/16H+3. 75 and Y=— (1/4H+46) When the specification is 2: The length of the pants is 0: Before the knees 7 : X=— (17/160H+1. 525) and 1/6H- 50; front side knee point 8: X=17/i60H+l. 525 and Y-1/6H- 50; front foot point 9 : X=— (1/16H+3, 75) and Y=1/4H-100; Front side stitches 10: X-1/16H+3. 75 and Y=1/4H-100.

8) As shown in Figure 2, the province and pleats, set the province and pleats on the garment structure plan:

On the plan of the garment structure, according to the shape and shape of the garment, the setting and the pleats are set. The position of the corresponding part and the length of the corresponding part are limited by the specifications of the garment; the points on the structural line are not limited; The type has nothing to do.

For example, in Figure 4, the province's 41 provincial 3CM and the pleated 42 pleats 5CM are set on the male trousers cutting diagram _:

Corresponding position of the site: such as the position of the front waist point 52 to the front seam point ² is relaxed 8CM;

Corresponding part length: If the front waist width is 11 wide or choose: C1/4W (72) — 1]+saving 3+ pleats 5=25CM Since the structural line includes the points at both ends; when setting the province and pleats When the position of the corresponding part point is adjusted and moved, the point on the structure line has been moved by the position of the point at the same time; therefore, the province 3 of the province 41 is set in the front waist width and the pleat 42 When the pleats are 51 CM; the front waist point 1 and the structure line 34 are adjusted to move; when the point 53 on the structure line 34 is narrowed or 1 CM is selected, it is narrowed at the point 53 or 1CM is selected, Limited by the specifications of the clothing.

At the same time, as shown in Figure 4, the front waist width is 11: 1/4H Ψ (72) -1= { [1/4H (104) - 1] - 8} = 17; when relaxing 8CM, UV4H ( 104) - 1 ] 8} +8=25, since the ratio 1/4 and the number H (J04) in the formula are unchanged, only the adjustment value is 1-8+8 (relaxing 8CM); therefore, with the ratio 1/4 sum Type H is irrelevant and is not subject to the specifications of the garment.

9) As shown in Figure 1 for the structural lines and sutures, the structural lines and sutures are placed on the plan view of the garment structure -

A. At each point on the structure line, there is a set of one or more points decomposition formula:

For example: As shown in Fig. 4, the front knee joint point 7 on the front squat structure line 34 has two sets of points practice formula: the bisector of the point and the front hip width portion 12, the front flap width 15, the front foot width portion 13. The design formula of the long part 16 of the trousers is calculated. At the same time, the grading pattern and the number card of the point can be formed by the adjustment value, the proportion and the number in the decomposition formula of the point.

B. When the position of the point on the structure line is retracted or selected; at the position of the point, retract or select the same adjustment value size; the position of the point on the C structure line is set to save and pleat, retract or select When not subject to clothing specifications:

D. The position of the point on the continuation of the structure, according to the shape of the body shape, the shape of the garment, and the outline formed after the selection. Because the pattern design drawing of the paper is based on the shape and shape of the clothing, the calculation and analysis of the size of the point at the point of the plane of the structure is gradually collected; instead of calculating the point on the surface of the human body surface s position: (A) The pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern is expressed according to the shape of the garment; analyzing and calculating the position of the points on each part and the structure line on the structural plan; instead of analyzing and calculating the surface on the body surface position-

A) Since the garment is composed of a piece of clothing; the shape of the piece is changed based on the shape of the body, based on the shape of the garment; determining the shape of the figure of the piece is the structural line on the periphery of the piece (including the point of the piece, the setting and the pleats)裥); The shape of the piece of clothing is different, and the shape of the composition of the garment is different. At the same time, one of the functions of the instability, decoration, and pattern design of the clothing pattern is the appearance of the appearance of the garment, which complements the shape of the outer surface of the body;

B) The position of each point on the structure line (including the site point, the set of provinces and the pleats) of the garment piece (clothing structure plan), how much the size of the retracted or selected is different; and the clothing on the outer appearance The local position (the whole part of the agricultural sheet or the whole piece of the piece) or the overall position (the whole of the garment) forms a different space, and the formed three-dimensional shape of the garment is different; the partial or overall pattern of the urea pack composed of the piece of clothing Shape modeling is different.

CB) So, in practical applications:

Since the knot line is composed of an infinite number of points; it includes its own and the point points at both ends, the set provincial point and the pleat point, and the provincial road; the line for determining the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; therefore, in the clothing pattern When designing drawings, not every point is in accordance with the shape of the garment to display or retract or select; instead, the basis of the pattern is designed as the pattern of the clothing pattern; the points on the structure line are selective The points are selected to perform the pattern shape design of the garment pattern: other points on the structure line, by the method of approximate joint, to form the outline of the garment pattern.

For example, take the example of the male trousers in Figure 4 as an example:

Location point: If you choose the front waist point point 1;

Structure line: For example, the position of the point 53 on the front structure line 34 and the position of the point 55 on the contour line 54 are taken as an example: a point on the structure line 34, the point 53 is selected, and the size is narrowed after 1 CM. , a point 55 on the contour line 54 is formed.

The contouring of other consecutive points on the contour line is done by an approximate joint:

For example, a male trousers pattern outline 54, which is approximately joined at 55 points to form an outline 54.

The structural line, as shown in Fig. 1, includes: a front side seam structure line 31, a front waist width structure line 32, a front crotch structure line 33, a front sill line 34, a point point 35, and a provincial road 36.

Sutures (illustrated with the same structural lines as an example): such as the front side seam structure line (suture) 31, the front waist width structure line (suture line) 32, the front line structure line (suture line) 34, the provincial road (sewed Line) 36„

Due to the position of the points on the suture, the relative position, shape, function, craft, and shape of the garment are different; therefore, the length of the stitching is shorter or longer than the can; for example: the front shoulder stitch and the back shoulder of the top. The length of the suture.

(2) Then; according to a plane structure of the garment structure plan that sets the X0Y geometric plane, etc., the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing of the clothing pattern are performed: The plane structure of the structure structure diagram of the male trousers of Fig. 3 according to the X0Y geometric plane is set; and the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing of the male trousers according to the specifications of Table 2 are taken as an example:

1) According to the gear difference of the clothing, select the same proportion as the gear of the clothing; to carry out the drawing of the clothing pattern -

首先. First explanation: The position difference of the calculation and the pattern of the clothing pattern is determined by the position difference of the clothing (the position difference of the clothing part/the image quantity of the clothing pattern); the position difference of the clothing pattern is calculated and determined in the part design formula. Proportional and part design formula - Calculate and determine the proportional and part point decomposition formulas of the part point decomposition formula from the proportion and part design formulas in the part design formula. At the same time, because of the method of clothing plane drawing and its In the clothing model diagram, the calculation result of the proportion of the part design formula and the part point decomposition formula forms a gear number type card; in the gear difference type card on the model drawing, the same gear difference number as the part gear difference is selected. Type card to select the gear pattern of the clothing pattern. Therefore, according to the specifications of the clothing, it is actually in the calculation formula of the calculation part point decomposition formula and its proportion, select the position difference of the armor to select the proportional and part point decomposition formula; or select the file formed by the ratio The difference type card; the drawing of the pattern of the clothing pattern of the smear clothing - for example, for the convenience of explanation, the calculation part point decomposition formula of the lateral X in the formula of the male trousers hem and the front hem portion 9 decomposition formula and The calculation formula of the ratio (the vertical Υ calculation formula is omitted) is an example: Select the same gear difference as the clothing part difference to select the proportional and part point decomposition formula; to carry out the clothing pattern of the gear difference drawing - front 裆 waist The horizontal X calculation formula in the decomposition formula of the locus 9 is also the distance from the point 9 to the Υ axis of the front squat position.

(Α) Determine the difference between the calculation and the pattern of the clothing pattern by the position difference of the lining - as shown in Table 2: Male trousers specifications: Because of the wide gap of the trousers 13 - 0. 5CM (male trousers pattern):

Therefore, the difference between the male trousers and the trousers is -0. 5CMX2 =1CM (two swatches of men's trousers)

(B) Calculate and determine the proportion and part design formula in the part design formula from the position difference of the travel paper pattern - Calculate the formula of the proportion in the design formula of the part (refer to "Clothing Plane Drawing Method and Its Difficult Model Picture") - The proportion of the proportion of the clothing pattern in the part design formula / parameter hip circumference difference 4

In the formula, the position difference of the clothing pattern is the part difference of the corresponding clothing pattern in the clothing specification (such as Table 1 and Table 2) (the position difference of the clothing part/the number of the clothing pattern); 4 is the parameter hip circumference Specifications are 4CM.

A) For example: the gap between the hem and the foot: 1CM is substituted; the ratio of the design formula of the front part of the trousers is 13 = 1 (the hem around the hem) / 2 (the front piece of the trousers and the back piece are 2 pieces) Stair difference 4 1/8

B) Because: Calculate the formula of the design formula of the clothing part - (the position difference of the clothing pattern / the parameter of the hip circumference difference 4) X H+ (the length of the wide part of the trousers, the position difference of the clothing pattern, the I parameter hip circumference difference 4XH): and so:

Formula for calculating the design formula of the clothing part - (The position difference of the clothing pattern/parameter hip circumference difference 4) X H+ adjustment value is 1CM for the circumference of the trousers and the width of the front trousers 13 is 21CM: The design formula of the front trousers width 13 -1/8H+7.5 In the formula: (the position difference of the clothing pattern I parameter hip circumference difference 4) is the ratio; H is the type 108; [the length of the trousers wide part one (the part of the clothing pattern is the I parameter hip circumference) The gear difference 4X H)] is the adjustment value; the length of the wide leg portion is 23-2-21. (c) Calculate and determine the proportion and part point decomposition formula in the decomposition formula of the site point by the formula of the proportion and part design formula and the bisector in the part design formula;

A) Calculate the formula for the decomposition of the site point α Formula for calculating the ratio in the formula:

Proportion = part of the pattern of the service pattern I parameter hip circumference difference 4 / aliquot (or the calculation of the position of the relative part; for example, the calculation of the front part of the waist in the clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model map 1 Decomposition formula)

For example - the difference between the men's trousers and the hem =1 and the equal score = 2 into the formula:

Proportion = [1 (partial difference) / 2 (2 pieces of front and back sheets) Hip circumference difference 4]/2 (two divisions) =1/16 Β) Calculate Deng's point decomposition formula (X calculation Formula) formula:

= { [ (Apparel pattern: Part difference I parameter hip circumference difference 4) ΧΗ] + adjustment value 3 } /2 (two divisions) In the formula, (the position difference of the clothing pattern / parameter hip circumference difference 4 ) Χ Η]+ adjustment value is the formula for calculating the design formula of the garment part; 2 is the halving of the bisector of the front trousers width 13; the + and Υ of the X and Υ calculation formulas in the part point decomposition formula, by X0Y It depends on the location on the geometric plane.

For example, if the X-calculation formula of the decomposing formula of the front foot part is 9, the step of the width of the hem is 1CM: the X formula of the decomposition formula of the front foot point 9 = one { [ ( 1/8H) + ( 7.5) ]/2} =- ( 1/16 H+3.75) Therefore, as in the above example: the pattern of the clothing pattern is drawn, according to the specifications of the clothing, such as according to Table 2, the circumference of the hem is 1CM (the width of the trousers) The difference is 0.5CMX 2); In the calculation formula of the calculation part point decomposition formula and its proportion, select the 1CM of the men's trousers and the foot circumference; select the ratio 1/16 and the part point decomposition formula 〖/16 Η+3.75; To perform the pattern difference of the clothing pattern: If the hem of the hem is 1CM, the drawing is made.

CM. Then according to the specifications of Table 2, such as the length of the pants and the width of the trousers are the same as the length of the trousers and the width of the trousers is 0. 5CM the same position The difference is an example; the description is based on the gear size difference of the clothing, and the same gear difference as the clothing part is selected;

As described in the introduction of the specific embodiment, the method of forming the plan of the specification structure is explained by using the number structure plan 61 and the specification structure plan 615 on the model diagrams of Figs. 5, 6, and 7.

Please refer to the model diagram of FIG. 5 and its number 104 structure plan 6J _:

As shown in Fig. 5, on the plan view of the X0Y geometric plane, the position of each point on the structural plan 61 is calculated -

(A) According to the specifications of the clothing: According to the position difference of the clothing, select the proportion and the point decomposition formula; to select the gear of the clothing:

For example, the formula for calculating the position of the point 9 of the foot portion is taken as an example -

(B) When the specification of Table 2 is poor: the length difference of the pants is 0, and the difference of the width of the trousers is 0. 5CM (the difference of the hem circumference is 1CM): Select the same position as the point of the ⁹ points of the foot. Site point decomposition formula: For example, it is introduced in the formula for setting the decomposition point of the part; the point 9 of the front foot part has two points decomposition formula:

A) The length difference of the pants is 2CM, the width of the trousers is 0. 5CM part point decomposition formula:

The first foot and the foot point point 9 decomposition formula: X = - ( 1 / 16H + 3.75) and (1/4H + 46)

B) The length difference of the pants is 0, the difference of the width of the trousers is 0. The decomposition formula of the part point of 5CM - the point of the front foot part 9 decomposition formula: (1/16H+3.75) and Y-1/4H-100

(C) The difference between the length of the pants and the length of the pants is 0, and the difference of the width of the pants is 0. The same position of the front foot of the 5CM 9 Decomposition formula:

X=— (1/16H+3.75) and Y-1/4H-100

2) According to the shape and shape of the garment, moderately select the appropriate amount of clothing to determine the size of the single piece of clothing: The measured circumference of the human body (measured on the clothes) is fixed; however, the clothing type The amount of relaxation is different, and the shape of the garment (the type of the one-piece expansion) is different. According to the shape and shape of the garment (such as width and narrowness), the amount of relaxation of the garment type is selected; it is on the measured circumference of the body type, and the volume and the amount of the garment are gradually narrowed to wide, and the shape of the garment is expressed by the shape of the garment. Phase S change relationship, moderately choose the appropriate amount of clothing relaxation; to determine the size of the clothing. For example, to determine the amount of looseness of a single male trousers and the number of male trousers for a single example - assuming that the measured hip circumference of a male trousers is 90 CM, the range of relaxation of male trousers is in the range of Between 4 and 24CM; For example, in the imagination and according to experience, it is considered that the 14CM style shape (width and width) of the male trousers is most suitable: so between 4 and 2 CM, moderately choose male trousers. The amount of relaxation is 14CM, and the size of the male trousers is 90+14=104CM.

3) According to the type of armor, select the same type as the clothing type; to carry out the type drawing of the clothing pattern:

A, first of all: the type of the garment, the part number of the garment, the type of the part of the garment pattern, the type of the part and the design formula of the part and the part of the decomposition formula of the part point; at the same time, by the thousand In the garment flat drawing method and its clothing model diagram, the number type card is formed by the number calculation result in the part point decomposition formula: select the same type scale on the type card as the clothing type to select the clothing pattern. No.; Therefore, the pattern of the clothing pattern is selected, and the number of the same type as the clothing is selected: the part of the selected part point decomposition formula is the same as the part number of the clothing; or the selection is formed by the type The number scale on the type card; the joint form the plan of the number structure, to draw the pattern of the clothing pattern: For example: the type of the male trousers 104 and the front waist point point 9 decomposition formula 10 As an example, the figure 104 of the male trousers is the same as the number 104 in the part point formula.

Please refer to the model diagram of Figure 5 and its sum-type 104 structure plan 61:

In the model diagram of Fig. 5, when the pattern of the men's trousers of the male trousers is 104CM, the figure H in the formula of the front waist point is decomposed, and the same is 104CM (such as the front waist part). The number scale K on the number card of point 1. B. Then explain; according to the type of the garment, select the same type of the part point decomposition formula as the clothing type; form the plan of the number structure;

For example, to select the specifications of Table 2: Hip circumference 104CM, that is, the number type is an example: Select the specifications of the clothing: No. 04 part point; To carry out the pattern of the clothing pattern 104 Drawing:

A) For example, the front lame point point 9 is geometrically located on the structure plan X0Y of Fig. 5 - X=-[1/16H ( 104) +3.75]=—i0.25CM and Υ=ί/4Η (104) -100 =~74CM

B) As shown in Fig. 5, the position of each part is connected, and the specification number of the table 1 - the type 104 and the specification of the table 2 are formed. - The structure plan 61 of the gear 2;

4) According to the shape and shape of the clothing and the shape of the garment, choose the same adjustment value as the shape and shape of the garment; the pattern design for the garment pattern:

On the plan view of the number structure, according to the specification number of the garment, form a plan view of the specification structure - when the specification number of the garment is different from the specification number of the structural plan; on the plan of the number structure, adjust according to the specification of the garment. Place) or select the position of the adjustment value of each part point; form a plan view of the specification structure.

5, the structural plan view 61 of FIG. 5 is a plan view of a so-called normal body type formed according to the specification number type of Table 1 : the type 104 and the standard deviation 2 of Table 2; for example, according to the clothing specification number type of Table 1, Straight depth = 〗 / 4H (104) = 26CM. However, the specification number of Table 2: straight depth (Y) = 25 _; therefore, it is necessary to form the plan view 615 of the specification structure of Table 2 according to the specification pattern of Table 2 in the structural plan view 61 of Fig. 5; The specification structure plan view 615 formed on the structural plan view 6 and the distribution face on the structural plan view 61 may be all of it or a part thereof.

As described in the introduction of the specific embodiment, the method of forming the plan view of the specification structure is explained by using the number structure plan 61 and the specification structure plan 615 on the model diagrams of Figs. 5, 6, and 7;

Please refer to the model diagrams of Figures 6 and 7, and its model 104 structure plan 61 and Table 2 specification structure plan 615: Figure 6 in the miao cutting diagram in the figure 104 structure plan 61:

Α) For example, as shown in Table 2, the size of the male trousers is 25CM _:

Shorten or select the position where the direct depth is 25CM, and mark it with a horizontal line (straight and deep);

Shorten or select the position with a depth of (25CM) / 3 and mark it with a horizontal line marked 69 (hip circumference);

B) For example, the male trousers of Table 2 are 103CM (99CM, waist 4CM):

Lengthening or choosing the length of the trousers 99 (waist 4C) - straight 裆 25CM=74 (Pants length 1QD position 610, and marked with a horizontal line 611 (trouser length):

Lengthen or select position 612 of 0.5CM (relative to the length of the trousers 1CM/2), and mark 613 (knee) with a flat line. For example, according to the shape and shape of the male trousers, such as the straight shape, the horn pattern, the shape shape design drawing, in the knee The position of the bit flat line 613 can be retracted or selected on the flat line 613, but does not belong to the example of the embodiment in the P9' valley.

C) For example, the leg width of Table 2 is 22CM:

Narrow or select the distance from the front foot position point 9 to the midline of the pants 19 10CM [(Front foot width 22-2)/2] position 614, marked with 614ο

D) As shown in the model diagram of Fig. 7, the corresponding part points are joined: The specification structure plan 6i5 of the specification is shown in Table 2. Because, as shown in Table 2, the shape and shape of the men's trousers of the specification type are considered to be the most appropriate and decided - so, in actual application, as the designer's experience improves, it has already been in the designer's mind. Forming a plan view of the specification structure; the designer directly at the position of the point of the plan view of the figure: according to the specification of the size of the garment, adjusting or selecting the same size to form a plan view of the specification; or at the position of the site : According to the shape and shape of the garment, adjust or select the same size to form the plan structure of the specification; to determine the specification number of the garment.

A. For example, the X formula for decomposing the formula of the front foot portion of Fig. 5 = (1/16H+3.75) is taken as an example:

B. When H 04, the distance from the front foot to the Y axis == [1/16H (〖04) +3.75]=- 1.0.25

C, as shown in Fig. 6, according to the specification number of Table 2, when the trousers are 22CM wide:

Distance (position) from the front foot point 9 (614) to the Y axis - (trouser width 22CM-2) /2=10 (-10) The distance from the front foot to the Y axis (H=104) Narrow or select: ( -10.25) one (a 10) = -0.25, that is, at the position of the front foot portion 9 of Figure 6, narrowing or selecting a position of 0.25CM to 614; forming the Figure 7 Specification structure plan 615.

In the formula: [1/16H (104) +3.75] is the point position of the horizontal X of the front foot part point; one is narrowed relative to the Y axis: 0.25 is narrowed or selected at the position of the point 9 of the front foot part The size is 0.25CM, and 0.25CM is an adjustment value of 0.25.

Assume that: When the position of the front foot 11 is narrowed or the size is selected to be 0.25 CM (if the specification number of Table 2 is considered to be the most suitable), the shape of the male trousers is most suitable; therefore, according to its The shape and shape of the male trousers are shown in the position of the point 9 of the front footrest portion of the figure structure plan view 61 of Fig. 6, narrowing or selecting the size - 0.25 CM; forming the plan view 615 of the specification structure of Fig. 7; Male trousers specification number: If the trousers are 22CSI wide.

2. The pattern design drawing of the garment pattern according to the shape and shape of the garment on the specification structure plan is decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; four steps of structural line design drawing - for example, Before the introduction of the specific embodiment, the structural plan 51 and the outline 54 of FIG. 4 are used to illustrate the pattern design drawing method for the clothing pattern on the specification structure plan:

Please refer to the four steps of the structural plan 51 of the male trousers cutting diagram and the design drawing of the contour drawing 54: (A) The position of the point is represented according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment to represent the position of the retracted or selected point: For example: The previous waist point point 1 is an example: Figure 4 shows the front waist point of the male trousers. According to the shape and shape of the male trousers, the shape is narrowed by 1CM:

At the position of the front waist point 1 , narrow or select - 1 CM, which is the position of the front waist point 52.

(B) The length of the part is calculated according to the calculation formula of the part or the design formula of the part:

For example: front trousers width 11 is 22CM; trousers width (22) — 2-20CM or 1/8H ( 104) +7=20C

(C) Set the province and pleats according to the style of the garment in the plan view of the garment structure:

For example: Front waist width 11, according to the shape of the male trousers, set the province 41 to 3CM and the pleat 42 to 5CM on the specification structure plan 51.

(D) The position of the points on the structure line is displayed according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment. The pattern outline of the armor pattern is formed:

For example: the position of the point 53 on the front sill line 34; the shape of the male trousers is narrowed or selected after 1 CM; the position of the point 55 on the contour map 54; the position of the point 55, the approximate joint is formed Contour 54.

3. According to the shape and shape of the garment, the shape of the garment and the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the armored pattern; the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retracting or selecting the appropriate size; to carry out the pattern of the follow-up pattern Design drawing: The point on the plan of the garment structure refers to the point on the plan of the garment structure, and the point on the structure line; on the plan view of the garment structure, the position of the points is different, the style of the pattern of the clothing is different, and the shape of the garment is shaped. Performance is different.

As already mentioned, the structural line refers to the line that determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure: it includes the structure line itself, the point of the structure, and the province and pleats set according to the shape of the garment: the provincial point and the pleats Points, and provincial roads.

Therefore, it is considered that in the plan of the specification structure, according to the shape of the body, the shape of the garment, or the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the garment pattern is drawn; the position of the point on the structure line is moderately retracted or selected on the line of the structure. How much is the size.

Since the points on the structure line include the point of the part and the point on the structure line; therefore, it is considered that the position of the point on the structure line is moderately retracted or selected, and the size of the point on the structure line is at the position of the point, moderately The size of the retractable or selected point.

(A) First, in the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retract or select the size of the point on the structure line; it is the adjustment value in the decomposition formula of the point on the structure line that is moderately retracted or selected. The pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern: Because the pattern design of the garment pattern is based on the location point; at the same time, the position of the point is determined by the decomposition formula of the part point; therefore, it is the front waist width of the point 1 of the previous waist. The retraction or selection is illustrated as an example:

Please refer to Figure 4 for the tailoring of the male trousers: According to the shape and shape of the male trousers, the shape is narrowed 1CM:

A) The front waist point point 1 In the decomposition formula: ( 1/10H-0.3) ( Y=25: straight 裆 25CM is omitted)

Β) Front waist position ί Position on the plan plan 51 : -[1/10H ( 104) -0.3]=- 10.1

C) Front waist point point 1 After narrowing 1CM, in the specification structure plan ΧΟΥ plane position 52:

{[1/10H ( 104) — 0.3] — 1 } =-9.1 In the formula: one is the position of the χογ plane; [ oH ao )— 0.3] is the position of the site point; —ι is the adjustment (narrowing) or selecting a 10* size; meanwhile, — 1CM size is the adjustment value of 1 .

That is, at the position of the front waist point 1: -[1/10H (〗 04) - 0.3], retract or select the adjustment value one. (B) Then, according to the shape, the shape of the garment, the shape and the shape of the garment, the design of the pattern of the garment pattern is made! 1Fig.; at the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retract or select the appropriate size; At the position of the point, retract or select the same number of sizes as the size; to design the pattern of the garment pattern:

Example 1. Take the shape of the front waist part of Figure 4 according to the shape of the male trousers. After narrowing or selecting a CM, the front waist point 52 is taken as an example - when H=104, the front 裆The position of the waist point 1 on the structural plan 51 of Fig. 4 - X = - [1/10H (104) - 0.3] = 10.1 and Ύ -25 (linear depth 25 CM)

A) Retract or select at the position of the point; the horizontal size value and the vertical size value are pre-agreed as 0:

At the position of the front waist point 1 - the transverse dimension value {- [1/10H (104) -0.3] = -10.1 } and the longitudinal dimension value (Y = 25 (straight depth 25CM)} are pre-agreed to 0;

Β) The position of the point is retracted or the selected lateral dimension value or the longitudinal dimension value of + and one, relative to the position of the X-axis or the Υ-axis on the Χ0Υ geometric plane of the structural plan view - the front waist point point 1 is relative The position of the X-axis 18 and the Υ-axis 19 on the X0Y geometric plane of the structural plan view is 1-1 cm after the lateral narrowing of 1 CM;

G) The position of the lateral dimension value or the longitudinal dimension value of the point, the convention is perpendicular to the X-axis or the Υ-axis, for example: the lateral dimension value of the front waist portion of Fig. 4 is +1 to 58 of the lateral dimension value 57 Position, the convention is parallel to the X-axis 18:

D) Retracting or selecting the position of the point on the structure line is the position of the point on the structure line, retracting or selecting the same size of the horizontal dimension value or the longitudinal dimension value: - the point at the front waist point Position of 1: The horizontal dimension value { -[1/10Η (104) -0.3] =-10.1 } and the vertical dimension value {Υ=25} are agreed to be 0, the horizontal narrowing or selecting the same size - 1CM is one U1/10H (104) -0.3] The position of a 1} = - 9.1 and {Υ-25); that is, the position of the front waist point 52.

Example 2. The position of the point 53 on the front structural line 34 of Fig. 4; after the lateral shape of the male trousers is narrowed by 1 CM; the point 55 on the contour map 54 is taken as an example;

Α) at the position of point 53 on the front 裆 structure line 34, the lateral dimension value and the longitudinal dimension value are agreed to be 0;

Β) At the position of the point 53 on the front 裆 structure line 34, the position relative to the Υ axis 19 is narrowed or selected as:

- belly;

C) Since this feature is not schematic; at the same time, it has been introduced in the above example, so the example is omitted; D> on the point 53 of the front floor structure line 34, the lateral lateral narrowing or selection The same one 1 CM; is the position of point 55 on the contour map 54. On the floor plan of the garment structure, the position of the same point is different or the size of the selection is different; the shape and shape of the garment are different.

According to the relationship between the position of the point and the shape and shape of the garment, the position of the point is determined according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment; the amount of retraction is gradually received from the receiving, moderately retracted or selected. What is the size value or the longitudinal dimension value; the design drawing of the pattern shape of the clothing pattern:

Example 3⁄4 _: Take the front width of the front waist point of the front waist point 1 of the front waist part of Figure 4 as an example: The position of the front width of the front waist point relative to the Y axis: Obesity type The amount of relaxation is +; the amount of narrowing of the lean body is one; assuming that the front sill of the front waist is 1 or the range of the selection is between +1 and 58 and 3 CM of 57: according to the range +1 - — when 3CM gradually retracts or selects the position of the site; the relationship between the shape and the shape of the male trousers; for example, in the imagination and experience, the front waist of the male trousers is considered When the lateral width of the front sill of the locus 1 is narrowed or 1 CM is selected, the style of the trousers of the male trousers is most suitable.

Therefore, between +1 and 3CM, the front waist point 1 is moderately narrowed or the appropriate lateral dimension value is 1C.

(3) Performing a design drawing of the garment or a shape copying of the garment on the garment model map:

For example, the pattern design drawing of the male trousers on the male trousers model map or the shape copying of the garment is taken as an example: First, the plane structure of the male trousers structure plan view of FIG. 3 is formed to form the figures of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7. A series of male trousers model drawings; then in the series of male trousers on the model of Figure 5, 6 7 according to the design of the male trousers or the shape of the male trousers.

1) Perform a design drawing of the garment on the garment model map:

Please refer to the model diagrams of Figures 5, 6, and 7 and its 104-type structure plan 61 and Table 2 specification structure plan 615: First: Suppose the male trousers pattern and the plan view of the male trousers in Figure 5, 6, and 7. The plane structure is the same.

A. First, according to the specifications of the garment, retract or select on the model map to form a plan view of the specification structure - on the model diagram of Figure 5 -

(A). Select the gear number card according to the specifications of the clothing to select the gear of the clothing pattern:

In the model map, the gear number card of the corresponding part point selects the same type of difference card type as the clothing part; for example, the previous lame point point 9 is an example - as shown in Table 2, when the male trousers Specifications difference: When the length of the pants is 0:

In the model diagram of Fig. 5, the gear difference type card (1) and (2> in the front footrest point 9 are in accordance with the specifications of the clothing - the length difference of the pants length is 0, and the gear width of the pants width is 0. 5, select the difference between the specifications of the clothing: the length of the pants is 0, the width of the trousers is 0. 5, the difference card (2);

(B) According to the type of expansion, form a plan of the number structure:

As shown in Table 2, the specification number of the male trousers is 104CM at the hip circumference; In the model diagram of Fig. 5, the size of the trousers of the male trousers is 104CM for the hips, and the number scale 104 on the point card of each part of the joint structure plan is formed; the number of the table 1 is the hip circumference 104, the gear difference 2 The figure 104 structure plan 61.

The CO forms a plan of the specification structure according to the specification number of the clothing on the plan view of the type structure:

As shown in Table 2, when the specifications of Table 2 are different from the specifications of the structural plan 61 on the model diagram of Fig. 5;

For example, in the model diagram of Fig. 5: the position of each part on the figure structure plan 61 is retracted or selected according to the specifications of Table 2: the plan structure plan 615 forming the table 2 of Fig. 7;

Please refer to the model diagram in Figure 6:

A) As shown in Table 2, when the male trousers are 25 degrees deep - on the figure 104 structure plan 61: retracting or selecting the longitudinal dimension data 25 of the front waist 1 position pattern (straight depth 25CM, Note: The vertical grid coordinate value is -2) position 66, marked with a flat line marked 67;

On the figure 104 structure plan 61; adjust or select the front square coordinate point of the 3rd figure of the front hip position map 2 (note the vertical square coordinate value of the 1st type map with the front waist point point -2 Position 68 of the same), marked with a flat line marked 69:

On the figure 104 structure plan 61: If there is no longitudinal grid coordinate 偟 due to the front 裆裆 position point 5; the position of the vertical square coordinate value is determined when forming the stencil 104 structure plan 61.

B) As shown in Table 2, when the pants of men's trousers are 103CM long:

Lower length (length of horizontal line below 18) - length of pants 103 - waist position 4 is always deep 25=7 CSt

On the structure 104 plane of the type 104: retracting or selecting the longitudinal dimension data 74 of the pattern No. 9 of the front foot part (note - the position 610 of the vertical grid coordinate value is +1>, marked with a flat line Mark 611;

On the figure 104 structure plan 61; adjust or select the level grid coordinate value of the 7th pattern of the front knee position. 注意 (Note: the vertical grid coordinate value +1 is the same as the point 9 of the front foot part) Position 612, marked with a flat line marked 613*,

C) As shown in Table 2, when the trousers of male trousers are 22CM wide

On the pattern 104 structure plan 6.1; narrow or select the position of the front footrest point No. 9 horizontal dimension data 10 [(trouser width 22-2) /2] position 614, marked with mark 614.

D) As shown in the model diagram of Fig. 7, the corresponding part points on the plan view of the joint structure form the plan structure plan 615 of Table 2.

Β. Then, on the specification structure plan, according to the style of the garment, the style is designed to be retracted or selected for the pattern design of the garment pattern:

As described before the introduction of the specific embodiment, the structural plan 51 and the outline 54 of Fig. 4 are used to illustrate the design drawing method of the clothing pattern on the plan of the specification structure;

Please refer to Figure 4 for a view of the male trousers and its structural plan 51 and contour 54 _:

(Α) The position of the carved point is displayed according to the shape of the body and the style of the garment. As shown in Fig. 4, after the position of the front waist point 1 is narrowed or 1C is selected, it is the position of the front waist point 52;

(B) The length of the part is calculated according to the part number formula of the clothing according to the part calculation formula or the part design formula: For example, Figure 4, the front leg width 11·· The leg width (22) — 2=20CM or the front leg width: (104) +7=20GM

(C) According to the shape of the men's trousers on the structural plan, the setting and the pleats are set:

For example, in Figure 4, a 3CM and a pleated 5CM are placed in the front waist width portion 11.

The position of the points on the CD) structure line is displayed according to the shape of the garment. The outline of the pattern is formed:

As shown in Fig. 4, the position of the point 53 on the front sill line 34 of the male trousers clothing cropping is narrowed or 1CM is selected, which is the point 55 on the contour line 54. After the point 55 is approximately coupled, the contour line 54 is formed.

2) Copy the shape of the garment on the armored model map -

1) It is assumed that the shape of the copied male trousers is the same as the outline 54 of the male trousers cutting diagram of Fig. 4 -

2) Assume that the specification number of Table 2 is the specification of the copied male trousers;

3) As shown in Table 2, assume the specifications of the male trousers copied, such as the length of the pants is 0, the width of the trousers is 0. 5;

4) Assume that the male trousers copied are the same as the plan view of the structural plan view of the figure of the male trousers of Fig. 5, 6>.

A. Firstly, according to the overall measurement of the size and size of the copied garment, it can be retracted or selected on the model map to form a plan structure plan of the copied garment;

(A) As shown in Table 2, the overall measurement and determination of the size of the control part of the size of the garment that determines the garment to be copied - for example: the measured hip circumference of the copied male trousers pattern 104CM (front hip width 25X4 + 4) ), straight 裆 depth 25CM, trouser length J03CM, knee depth 32. 5CM (Note: Data 32. 5CM from the front knee joint point point No. 7 shape vertical coordinate value of a "32. 5CM" and the former lame The longitudinal coordinate value of the 9-point pattern of the part point is the same as the position of the 1st), and the width of the front hem is 22CM;

(B) According to the overall measurement of the size of the control part of the garment of the copied garment, form a plan of the specification structure: The size of the control part of the size of the copied garment according to the overall measurement: Hip circumference 10 Of, straight and deep pants length

103CM, knee depth 32. 5CM; Forming specifications for the type 104CM, straight 裆 25CM, pants length I03CM, Zhong 裆 deep 32. 5CM structure plan;

Please refer to Figure 5 for the model diagram and its 104-type structure plan 61:

A) Select the gear number card according to the gear difference of the copied clothing:

As shown in Table 2, the copied male trousers have a length difference of 0 _:

In the model diagram of Fig. 5, the gap difference type card (1) and (2) of the front foot position point 9, the gear length of the pants length is 0, and the gear width of the leg width is 0.5. Type card (2).

B) Form a figure structure on the model diagram according to the type of the copied garment: When the type of the male trousers copied is the hip circumference 104CM;

The number scale 104 on the dot type card on each part of the joint structure plan view forms a plan view of the type 104 structure 61. C) On the plan view of the number structure, the plan structure is formed according to the size of the control part of the copied garment: Please refer to Figure 6 for the model diagram and the figure 104 structure plan 61 -

A, when the measured copy of the male trousers is 25 degrees deep;

Shorten or select the front size of the 1st point number pattern of the longitudinal dimension data 25 (Note: the vertical square 25CM vertical square coordinate value is a 2) position 66, marked with a flat line 67;

Shorten or select the position of the vertical grid coordinate value of the No. 3 pattern of the front and back hips (2: Note: the same as the vertical square coordinate value -2 of the front waist i-type figure), marked with a flat line Mark 69;

B. When measuring the length of the pants of the men's trousers of 3⁄4 sodium, 103CM;

Adjust (pull) or select the position of the longitudinal dimension data 74 (pants length 103 - waist position 4 - straight depth 25) of the figure 9 in the front foot part. Mark 611 with the flat line mark;

C, when measuring the knee depth of the copied male trousers 32. 5CM:

Shorten or select the front knee joint point. The longitudinal length data of the No. 7 pattern. 32. The position of 5, 612, marked with a flat line.

613;

D. When measuring the width of the front trousers of the copied male trousers is 22CM;

Narrow or select the position of the front foot position point No. 9 of the horizontal size data 10 [(trouser width 22-2) /2] position 614, marked with 614.

E, as shown in Figure 7 model diagram: the corresponding part of the joint structure plan, forming a male trousers hip circumference 10 CM, straight 裆 depth 25CM, pants length 103CM. knee depth 32. 5CM, front trousers width 22CM structure plan 615 .

B. Then, on the plan view of the specification structure, copy the partial shape of the garment of the garment according to the local measurement: Partially retracting or selecting, copying the shape of the garment pattern of the copied garment:

As described before the introduction of the specific embodiment, the method of forming a garment pattern on the plan view of the specification structure is explained using the structural plan 51 and the outline 54 of FIG. 4; meanwhile, the shape of the male trousers copied is the same as that of FIG. The outline of the trousers cutting diagram is the same as 54; therefore:

Please refer to Figure 4 for the cut and view of the male trousers and its outline 54:

(A) Local measurement of the shape of the copied garment -

A) The shape of the location of the part of the garment that is copied by the local volume:

For example, as shown in Figure 4, the front nucleus point 1 is narrowed by 1 CM;

B) Local measurement of the length of each part of the copied garment:

For example: As shown in Figure 4, the length of the front waist portion 11 is 17CM (Note. · Data) 7C1 from the front waist width: waist W (72) / 4 1=17 CM); The front middle width is 22.75CM (Note: Data 22.75CM comes from the point 9 decomposition formula of the front knee according to Figure 4 - X= ( - { [17/160H (104) +1. 525] -1. 2 » X2=22. 75CM);

C) Locally measuring the shape of the local position of the copied garment; whether the local position has a setting and pleats: for example; as shown in Fig. 4, the province 41 is set to 3CM and the pleats 42 are

D) The shape of the outline of the garment copied by the partial riveting volume:

For example, as shown in Fig. 4, the position of the point 53 on the front line portion 5 to the front foot portion point 9 or the hard ruler (the front sill line 34), and the position at the point 55 on the contour line 54 The distance is CM.

Another method: As shown in Fig. 4, the shape of the outline 54 is copied onto the paper; a contour 54 model is formed.

CB) Malaria is a partial shape of the garment copied according to the local measurement; partial retracting or selection to perform the pattern shape drawing of the garment pattern of the copied garment; respectively: part point; part: setting province and pleat; structure line Retracting or selecting: Please refer to Figure 4 for the male trousers cutting diagram and its structural plan 51 and contour 54 _:

A) The position of the site point is retracted or selected according to the position of the body shape and the location point of the copied garment:

For example, in Figure 4, narrow or select the position of the front waist point 1 from 1CM to the front waist point 52:

B) The length of the part is retracted or selected according to the length of the part of the copied garment:

For example, in Figure 4, the front middle width is 22.75CM;

Narrow or select the distance from the front knee joint point 7 to the midline 19 of the pants. 22. 75/2=11. Location of 375 56;

C) Shape on the armored structure plan according to the shape of the local position of the copied garment; set the province and pleats: for example, in Figure 4, set the front 41 to 3CM and the pleat 42 to 5CM in the front waist width 11:

D) The position of the points on the structure line is shaped or retracted or selected according to the shape of the structural line of the copied garment to form a garment pattern outline:

For example, in Fig. 4, the front sill structure line 34 (the front squat portion point 5 to the front squat portion point 9 connection line or "hard ruler"), the position of the metric point 53 to the point 55 on the contour line 54 is 1CM;

The position of the point 55 on the contour line 54 is approximated to form the contour line 54.

Another method: as shown in Fig. 4, according to the contour 54 model, the shape of the contour line 54 is formed; the contour line 54 is formed.

(4) On the clothing model map, according to the gear difference and number of the clothing, carry out the pattern and type drawing of other styles of clothing patterns: Example: Assume that the male trousers structure plan 5 of Figure 4 (male trousers pattern) is The shape of the pattern of other styles of clothing; it is obtained by the method of stereoscopic design drawing, garment copying or other methods: The specifications of Table 2: Its specification difference (2): The length of the pants is 0 and the specification Type: The number is the hip circumference 104CM: Other numbers are used as examples.

1> On the model diagram: The position of the X-axis and Y-axis of the style garment pattern and its plane structure and shape, and the model diagram When the position of the x-axis and the γ-axis of £ is the same as the plane structure and shape; the pattern of the garment is the same as the pattern of the garment designed on the model drawing. For example, the position of the X-axis and the Υ-axis of the male trousers structure plan view 51 of FIG. 4 and its planar structure and shape, and the position of the X-axis and the Υ-axis of the specification structure plan view 615 of the model diagram of FIG. 7 and its planar structure Same shape.

2) Measure the pattern of the pattern of the garment: Determine the part of the garment type: The bottom is the hip area, such as the front breech width 12''. The top is the wide part of the bust, such as the front chest width; other parts are decided The part number of the clothing.

Now, on the model diagram of Fig. 5, the specifications of other styles of clothing patterns (such as the male trousers structure plan 51 of Fig. 4) are performed (2): the length of the pants is 0 and the other type is 108CM. The trousers structure plan 51 is illustrated as an example: Please refer to the figure model diagram and the specification structure plan 615 of Fig. 7, and the male trousers structure plan 51 of Fig. 4: First:

1) Select the same model as the plane structure of the pattern garment pattern - according to the plane structure of the male trousers structure plan 51 (men's trousers pattern) of Fig. 4, select the model diagram of Fig. 7;

2) On the pattern of the clothing pattern, determine the position of the X-axis and the Υ axis of the pattern garment pattern in the same position as the model figure - on the plan view of the male trousers structure of Fig. 4, determine the position of the X-axis and the Υ-axis of the pattern garment pattern as X The position of the shaft 18 and the y-axis 19;

3) As shown in Figure 4 of the male trousers structure plan 51 (male trousers pattern), measure the type of the cheap pattern: for example, measure the front hip width of the male trousers pattern is 25CM; the hip part is the type K) 4C (front hip width 25CMX4+4)

4) On the model diagram, adjust and determine the position of the X-axis and Y-axis on the pattern pattern and the model drawing - adjust and determine the male trousers structure plan of Figure 4 and the X-axis 18 and Y-axis on the model diagram of Figure 5. 19 is in the same position;

5) According to the specifications of the clothing, select the same type of difference card type from the position difference of the clothing in the position difference type card; to select the clothing pattern difference:

For example, in the model of Fig. 5, the gear number card (1) and (2) at the front foot part point 9; the difference with the male trousers is selected: the length of the pants is 2, the width of the trousers is 0. . 5 the same differential number card (2);

6) The position of the same type of scale on the type card is the same as that of the pattern of the pattern of the pattern. The position of each part is as follows: Figure 5 shows the front scale of the model on the first waist of the model. Position, point to the position of the front waist point 1 (the specification structure plan 615 of Figure 7 is 104CM);

7) According to the type of clothing, select the same type of scale as the clothing type on the corresponding part number card; to make other type drawings of clothing pattern:

For example, as in the number card of the front waist point 1 of the model diagram of Fig. 7, the same type of scale 108 position as the clothing type 108 is selected (example number is 108CM), which is the model number 108 of the model figure. The position of the front waist part point 1; the similar joint specification structure plan 615 (number is 104) each part point number card type mark scale 108, forming a specification structure plan of the type 108CM (this step has no schematic diagram; For example, refer to "Clothing Plane Drawing Method and Its Clothing Model Diagram").

Claims

1. A garment pattern design drawing method according to a planar structure of a structural plan, comprising the following steps: (1) respectively setting on a plan view of a garment structure: 1) X0Y geometric plane; 2) part point; 3 ); bisector: 5) part calculation formula; 6) part design formula; 7) part point decomposition formula; 8) province and pleats; 9) structure lines and sutures.

(2) According to the plane structure of the plan of the garment structure such as the X0Y geometric plane, the pattern, the gear and the design of the clothing pattern are drawn:

1) According to the specifications of the clothing, select the same ratio as the clothing part; to carry out the drawing of the clothing pattern;

2) According to the shape and shape of the garment, moderately select the appropriate amount of clothing to determine the size of the single piece of clothing;

3) According to the type of clothing, select the same type as the clothing type; to carry out the type drawing of the clothing pattern;

4) According to the shape and shape of the clothing and the shape of the garment, select the same adjustment value as the shape and shape of the garment; to design the pattern of the garment pattern;

2. The pattern design of the garment pattern will be decomposed according to the shape and shape of the garment, the shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment on the specification structure plan: Partial position; Part·, setting province and pleat; Structure line design drawing Four steps;

3. According to the shape and shape of the figure, the shape of the garment and the shape of the garment, the pattern design of the garment pattern is carried out; at the position of the point on the structure line, the appropriate size is appropriately accommodated or selected; and the pattern design of the garment pattern is drawn.

(3) Performing a design drawing of the garment or copying the shape of the garment on the garment model map -

1) First, according to the specifications of the clothing and the specification number, form a plan view of the specification structure;

(4) According to the gear gap and number type of the clothing, perform the gear difference and the type drawing of other styles of clothing patterns: According to the gear difference of the clothing, 'select and wear the clothing in the position difference number card The gear difference type card with the same position difference; according to the type of the clothing, select the same type scale on the number card of the part point.

2. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a X0Y geometric plane is provided;

Apply the principle of linear equations to calculate and analyze the position of the points on the structure and the line on the X0Y geometric plane of the plan of the garment structure; to design the pattern, the gear and the number of the clothing pattern.

3. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a site point is provided; and wherein:

1) There is a set of decomposition formulas for one or more parts at each locus;

2) When the position of the site is retracted or selected; retract or select the same size at the location of the site;

3) When the position of the site is retracted or selected; it is limited by the specifications of the clothing.

4. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the setting portion is;

1) The length of the part is limited by the specifications of the garment; the chest and hip parts are used to determine the type (type) of the garment;

2) Each part has a set of parts calculation formula; '

3) Each part has one or more sets of part design formulas. .

5. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a bisector is provided; and wherein:

The pattern shape, the difference of the gear size and the change of the size of the pattern of the garment pattern are all halved according to the bisector; together with the design formula, the formula of the point decomposition is calculated and determined.

A plan view of a garment structure of the armor pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the set portion calculation formula is characterized in that - the length of the pattern portion of the portion of the garment pattern is calculated according to the specification number of the garment:

7. The garment structure plan view of the armored pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the design part is designed;

1) Calculate the length and the difference of the part of the garment pattern according to the specifications of the armor; determine the shape of the pattern of the figure of the garment structure, the number of the gears and the size of the shape. Wherein, the adjustment value is calculated and the length of the part of the part of the part is determined; the number type is calculated and the length of the part of the part is determined; the ratio is calculated and the difference of the 1CM type of the determined part is different;

2) Calculate and determine the site point decomposition formula together with the bisector.

8. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a part point decomposition formula is set;

According to the specifications of the clothing, the position of the part of the clothing pattern, the position of the line on the structure line, and the position difference of the point on the X0Y geometric plane of the structural plan; the shape of the pattern of the plan view of the garment structure, the number of the difference and the number of the gear The size of the type. Wherein, the adjustment value is calculated and determined, the position of the pattern point and the position of the pattern point on the structure line; the number calculation and the position of the number point on the structure line and the number point on the structure line; the ratio calculation and the determination of the position point and the structure line The difference between the 1CM type of the point is different.

9. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the province and the pleat are provided; and wherein:

On the shrinking plan of the garment, according to the shape and shape of the garment, the setting and the pleats are set. The position of the corresponding point and the length of the corresponding part are limited by the specifications of the garment; the points on the structural line are not limited; It has nothing to do with the type.

10. A garment structure plan view of a garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a structural line and a suture are provided; 1) The position of each point on the structure line has one or more points decomposition formulas;

2) When the position of the point on the structure line is retracted or selected; retract or select the same size at the position of the point;

3) When the position of the point on the structure line is retracted or selected; it is not subject to the specifications of the clothing;

4) The position of the points on the structure line, according to the shape of the body, the style of the garment, or the selected contour.

11. The method for drawing pattern design of a garment pattern according to claim 1, wherein the pattern of the pattern of the garment pattern is drawn; wherein: according to the specification of the clothing, the calculation formula of the point decomposition formula and the proportion thereof is selected, and the clothing is selected. The position difference is selected to select the part point decomposition formula and its proportion; or the gear difference type card formed by the ratio is selected; to perform the gear difference drawing of the clothing pattern.

12. The garment-like design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the shape of the single-piece garment is determined; and the feature is: according to the style of the garment, the amount of relaxation is gradually narrowed to wide, and the appropriate clothing is appropriately selected for relaxation. How much to measure; to determine the type of a single piece of clothing.

13. The method for drawing a pattern of a garment pattern according to claim 1, wherein the pattern of the pattern of the garment pattern is characterized by: selecting a point portion of the part point decomposition formula that is the same as the size of the clothing according to the type of the clothing; Or select the type scale on the type card formed by the type; join to form a plan view of the number structure; to carry out the type drawing of the clothing pattern.

14. The garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the specification structure plan is formed according to the specification deviation and the specification number of the garment; and the following steps are included:

1) According to the specifications of the clothing, select the same proportion and the part point decomposition formula or the gear difference type card;

2) According to the position of the corresponding number position point or the type mark of the clothing type, form a plan view of the number structure;

3) Form a specification structure according to the specification number of the garment.

15. The garment pattern design drawing method and claim 14 according to claim 1, wherein the specification structure plane is formed according to the specification type of the clothing on the type structure plan view;

1) At the position of the part point, adjust or select the same size according to the specification of the clothing, and form a plan view of the specification;

2) At the position of the part point, according to the shape of the garment, the shape is adjusted, or the same size is adjusted or selected to form a plan view of the specification; to determine the specification number of the garment.

16. The method of drawing a garment pattern design according to claim 1, wherein the method of drawing a pattern of the garment pattern according to the figure, the shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment on the plan of the specification structure are four steps;

1) The position of the part point is displayed according to the shape of the body, the shape of the garment, or the shape of the garment;

2) The length of the part is calculated according to the part calculation formula or the part design formula; or determined by the length of the clothing part;

3) On the plan of the specification structure, the shape and shape of the garment or the shape of the garment are set according to the shape of the garment;

4) The position of the point on the structure line is retracted or selected according to the shape of the body, the shape of the garment, or the shape of the garment; Form the outline of the garment pattern.

17. The garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a position of a point on the structure line is appropriately accommodated or selected to select a suitable size for pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern; and the feature is:

Appropriately retract or select the adjustment values in the decomposition formula of the points on the structure line to make the pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern.

18. The garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein a position of a point on the structure line is appropriately accommodated or selected to select a suitable size for design drawing of a pattern shape of the clothing pattern; and the feature is:

1) At the position of the point, the horizontal dimension value and the vertical dimension value are agreed to 0;

2) The + or one of the lateral dimension value or the longitudinal dimension value at the position of the point or the selected position, relative to the position of the X-axis or the Y-axis on the structural plan view;

3) The position of the horizontal or vertical dimension of the point, the convention is parallel or perpendicular to the corresponding X or Y axis;

4) At the position of the point, retract or select the same size value of the horizontal size value or the vertical size value.

.

19. The garment pattern design drawing method and claim (18) according to claim 1; wherein - at the position of the point, according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment, the volume is gradually received from the received, moderately Retract or select the appropriate lateral dimension value or longitudinal dimension value; to design the pattern shape of the garment pattern.

20. The garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the garment is copied in a shape; and the method comprises the following steps:

1) Firstly, according to the overall measurement of the size of the copied garment, the size structure of the copied garment is formed;

2) The partial shape of the garment is then copied according to the local measurement; the province and pleats, partial retraction or selection are set to perform the pattern shape drawing of the garment pattern of the copied garment.

21. The garment pattern design drawing method according to claim 1, wherein the gear difference and the number of the other style clothing patterns are selected according to the gear gap and the number of the clothing on the clothing model map; and the following steps are included -

1) according to the plane structure of the pattern of the clothing pattern, select the same garment model diagram as the plane structure of the pattern garment pattern;

2) On the pattern of the clothing pattern, determine the position of the X-axis and the Y-axis of the same pattern of the garment pattern as the model figure;

3) measuring the type of the pattern of the garment on the pattern of the garment;

4) On the model diagram, adjust and determine the position of the X-axis and Y-axis of the pattern garment pattern is the same as the position of the X-axis and the Y-axis on the model diagram;

5) According to the specifications of the clothing, select the same type of difference card type in the part point difference type card to perform the gear pattern drawing of the clothing pattern;

6) The position of the same type of scale on the type card and the type of the pattern of the style garment, the position of the alignment point;

7) According to the type of clothing, select the same type of scale as the size of the clothing on each point type card to carry out the pattern pattern printing.