WO2009083512A1

WO2009083512A1 - Compositions based on peroxide in a glycolated carrier and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2009083512A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/068101
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne-Laure Bernard
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2007-12-21
Filing date: 2008-12-19
Publication date: 2009-07-09
Also published as: FR2925303A1; FR2925303B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising a peroxide and a basic compound, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, glycolated anhydrous carrier. It also relates to the use of this composition in the cosmetics or dermatology field or to a cosmetic process in which this composition is applied to the skin.

Description

Peroxide compositions in a glycol vehicle and uses thereof

The invention relates to a composition for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising a peroxide and a basic compound dispersed in a glycerol anhydride acceptable cosmetic or dermatological. It also relates to the use of this composition in the field of cosmetics or dermatology or to a cosmetic process by applying this composition to the skin.

Consumers are looking for skincare products with measurable short-term effectiveness with a noticeable and lasting improvement in the appearance of the skin. In particular, the desired effects are a smoothing of the cutaneous relief, less apparent pores, and / or a microrelief and less visible wrinkles, a reduction of the spots, a more radiant complexion, in particular for the dull skins or the dark skins, a sharper, less shiny skin, especially for oily skin.

These results can be obtained with conventional care products over relatively long treatment times (greater than 3 months). Other treatments, such as chemical peels, also improve the appearance of the skin durably and noticeable after several application sessions. These treatments are generally accompanied by significant inconveniences, such as large desquamation a few days after an application session.

There is therefore still a need to provide rapid cosmetic treatments that improve the appearance of the skin in a durable and perceptible manner and do not have the drawbacks described above.

In the application US 2007/0166339 (Bioderm Research), there is provided cosmetic compositions comprising a complex of active oxygen donor agent and zeolite. However, these compositions are not totally satisfactory in terms of efficiency and / or stability. In addition, these compositions mainly have a whitening effect on the skin and an action on acne.

The Applicant has surprisingly and surprisingly shown that skincare products containing at least the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycerol anhydride acceptable cosmetic or dermatological, allow to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by reducing stains, blemishes, and / or acne lesions, by making the pores less conspicuous, by restoring luster to dull, ashy or dark skin, improving appearance of oily skin, especially by promoting the dullness of the skin.

The compositions identified by the Applicant make it possible to obtain stable and effective compositions for improving the appearance of the skin.

The subject of the invention is therefore a skincare and / or cleansing composition, comprising at least the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound, dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable anhydrous glycol vehicle. dermatology.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic assembly consisting of two distinct compositions, said assembly comprising at least one peroxide and a basic compound packaged in one of the compositions or in two distinct compositions, at least one of the two compositions comprising a composition glycol carrier and the other an aqueous system, excluding a system wherein the peroxide and the basic compound are in the composition comprising the aqueous system.

Thus, in a first aspect of said cosmetic assembly, the first composition comprises the combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycol anhydrous vehicle, and the second composition comprises an aqueous system.

In another embodiment, a first composition comprises a peroxide in a glycol vehicle and a second composition comprises a basic compound in an aqueous system.

In a further embodiment, a first composition comprises a basic compound in a glycol vehicle and a second composition comprises a peroxide in an aqueous system.

The compositions according to the invention make it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by attenuating the skin imperfections, the spots and the acne lesions, by smoothing the cutaneous relief, making the pores less apparent, making the microrelief and the wrinkles less visible, by restoring radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, and / or by improving the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin. The compositions according to the invention also make it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots or the spots due to the sun, or to improve the makeup hold.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, and in particular for giving one of the effects on the skin mentioned above, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to the invention .

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of a composition as described above.

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycerol anhydride acceptable cosmetic or dermatological. The term "peroxide" in the context of the present invention refers to any type of peroxide, organic or inorganic.

Preferably, the peroxide compound is inorganic. It is especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide and a metal peroxide, especially sodium peroxide, calcium peroxide, barium peroxide, magnesium, lithium and zinc.

According to a first embodiment, it is hydrogen peroxide.

According to another embodiment, it is a metal peroxide selected from sodium peroxide, calcium peroxide, barium peroxide, magnesium, lithium and zinc.

In a particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is sodium peroxide.

In another particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is calcium peroxide.

In another particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is barium peroxide.

In another particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is magnesium peroxide.

In another particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is lithium peroxide. In another particular embodiment, the metal peroxide is zinc peroxide.

As organic peroxide, there may be mentioned urea peroxide.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the peroxide is chosen from urea peroxide, sodium peroxide, calcium peroxide, barium peroxide, magnesium, lithium and zinc.

Preferably, the peroxide in the composition is hydrogen peroxide (eg CAS number 7722-84-1). By way of example, mention may be made of the 30% hydrogen peroxide solution marketed by Sigma Aldrich Fine Chemicals. Most preferably, the peroxide in the composition is calcium peroxide.

By the term "basic compound" in the context of the present invention is meant in particular zeolite aluminosilicate structures and basic inorganic salts, which induce a basic pH (preferably greater than or equal to 8) when are in the water.

According to one embodiment, these will be aluminosilicate structures.

According to another embodiment, these will be basic inorganic salts.

As basic inorganic salts, there may be mentioned sodium silicates, calcium silicates (eg Huberderm 1000 from Huber Corporation), potassium silicates, calcium hydroxide, sodium aluminates, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the basic inorganic salts are chosen from sodium silicates, calcium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium hydroxide, sodium aluminates, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate and bicarbonate. ammonium, or mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, it will be sodium silicates.

According to another particular mode, it will be calcium silicates.

According to another particular mode, it will be potassium silicates.

According to another particular mode, it will be calcium hydroxide. In another particular embodiment, it will be sodium aluminates.

According to another particular mode, it will be sodium bicarbonate.

According to another particular mode, it will be potassium carbonate.

According to another particular mode, it will be ammonium bicarbonate.

Zeolites are particularly preferred. Zeolites are a class of aluminosilicate materials that are known and used in a variety of applications, for example, ion exchange, gas separation, and catalysis (A. Dyer, An Introduction to Zeolite Molecular Sieves, J. Wiley and Sons, 1988).

The zeolites can be natural or synthetic. The zeolites are porous crystalline aluminosilicate structures, preferably nanoporous, consisting of AlO ₄ and SiO ₄ tetrahedra connected to each other by the oxygen peaks. The assembly of the tetrahedra in space forms polyhedra which delimit a network of channels, cages and mono-, di- or three-dimensional cavities, in which cations are placed at points where they balance the negative charges borne by the AIO tetrahedra. ₄ ^". the size and arrangement of tetrahedra differentiate zeolites. for each aluminum atom in the zeolite structure, a negative charge is introduced and balanced by a cation outside the skeleton. These cations may be of inorganic or organic nature , preferably inorganic, and can be exchanged using standard ion exchange processes (ME Davis, Ordered for Materials for Emerging Applications, Nature, 417, 813, 2002) Zeolites can include transition as an external species to the skeleton, for example, sodium and potassium.

Zeolites whose general formula is:

M _{2 n} O Al ₂ O ₃ XSiO ₂ YH ₂ O wherein n is the valence of the cation M, M is an outer metal cation to the backbone, of monovalent or divalent preferably independently selected from the group consisting of Li, Na, K , Mn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Cu, Ru, Rh, Co, Ni, Zn and Ag and their associations, x is the number of silica molecules and y is the number of water molecules of crystallization. Preferably, the M are metal cations external to the backbone of elements selected from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium and barium, more preferably M is Na and / or K. The zeolites are chosen from those which induce a basic pH (preferably greater than or equal to 8) when they are in water.

The zeolites are generally in the form of particles having a particle size ranging from 1 to 60 microns, preferably a particle size ranging from 1 to 30 microns. The pore diameter of said zeolites may range from 3 to 200 Angstroms, preferably from 3 to 150 Angstroms.

The Si / Al molar ratio of said zeolites according to the invention may range from 1 to 6. According to a particular embodiment, a zeolite having an Si / Al ratio of 4 to 6, in particular an Si / Al ratio of 5.1, will be used. .

Examples of zeolites that may be mentioned are activated zeolites, for example zeolites A, zeolites X, such as those sold by the companies Fluka and Union Carbide, MAP zeolites as described in document EP-A-384070, zeolites A activated. Activated zeolites of type A-3, A-4 and A-5 and their method of preparation are described in EP-A-187912 incorporated herein by reference. It is possible to use especially those marketed under the name of ADVERA 401 N and ADVERA 402N by the company PQ Corporation.

As potassium zeolite, mention may be made in particular of zeolites sold under the reference X-MOL by ZEOCHEM and which have a particle size of 2 μm and a nominal pore diameter of 3 Angstroms. As sodium zeolite (for example, CAS number 1344-00-9), mention may be made in particular of the zeolites marketed under the names ZEOLEX or ZEODENT by the company J. M Huber Corporation, or the names ALUSIL by the company Crosfield Company. Mention may also be made of sodium zeolites marketed under the names ZEOFLAIR 100, 200, 300 by ZEOCHEM (particle size 4 μm and pore diameter 5.6 Λ and 7.6 Λ); or the COSMABOND 3ALW zeolite from Sasol (particle size 5-10 μm). In a particular embodiment of the invention, the combination may further comprise a metal oxide, in particular a metal oxide comprising a semiconductor metal. The use of any metal oxide compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological application is envisaged. Titanium dioxide (TiO2), titanium hydroxide, zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxide, copper oxide, cobalt oxide or manganese oxide may be particularly mentioned. Preferably, the metal oxide is titanium dioxide, in rutile form or anatase.

Preferably anatase titanium dioxide is used (for example: CAS number 1317-70-0). By way of example, mention may be made of anatase titanium oxide (Cl: 77891) marketed by the company Sachtleben.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the combination described above comprises at least the combination of a peroxide, a basic compound and titanium dioxide, dispersed in a glycol anhydrous vehicle. The Applicant has been able to demonstrate that such a composition had a particularly improved stability in time, particularly in terms of the stability of the peroxide contained in the composition. A particularly positive effect on the lightening and / or radiance of the complexion has been observed. The application of such a composition also makes it possible to obtain a significant reduction in the number of acne lesions, a significant improvement in the appearance of the pores (size, relief), and an improvement in mattness, which is particularly interesting for the patients. oily skin.

The amount of peroxide in the combination described above can be expressed:

in% by weight of peroxide relative to the total weight of said combination; or

in% H2O2 equivalent relative to the total weight of said combination.

Unless otherwise mentioned, the amount of peroxide is expressed in% equivalent in H ₂ O ₂ relative to the total weight of said combination. The peroxide index (PI) is the amount of product (the combination containing the peroxide) present in the sample, expressed in milliequivalents of active oxygen per kilogram, oxidizing potassium iodide under the operating conditions defined by the ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.

The% H2O2 equivalent in the combination corresponds to: IP of the combination containing the peroxide / 1000/10 x PM, knowing that: PM = molecular weight of H2O2 and

IP = peroxide value for a raw material (in particular the combination containing peroxide) calculated under the operating conditions defined by ISO 3960 and AFNOR T 60-220.

Thus, the% H2O2 equivalent can be measured for any type of peroxide, such as H ₂ O ₂ , CaO ₂ , ZnO ₂ , etc.

For example, the amount of peroxide in said combination may be in particular between 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of said combination.

Preferably, the amount of peroxide in the combination described above is such that the equivalent content of H ₂ O ₂ in the combination is between 0.05 and 5%, preferably between 0.05 and 4%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination. Specific H ₂ O ₂ contents are 0.05; 0.1; 0.2; 0.3; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6; 0.7; 0.8; 0.9 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.

The content of basic compound is chosen in such a way that the combination of peroxide / basic compound (and optionally metal oxide) generates a basic pH, preferably greater than or equal to 8 in water.

Preferably, the amount of the basic compound in the combination is between 0.01 and 98% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 98% by weight with respect to total weight of the combination, preferably from 5 to 98%, more preferably from 50 to 98% and even more preferably from 80 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.

If the combination comprises a metal oxide, the latter is preferably present in a proportion of 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the combination, preferably from 1 to 10%, more preferably from 2 to 8%, preferably from 3 to 7%, even more preferably from 4 to 6%.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the association comprises:

a hydrogen peroxide;

a potassium or sodium aluminosilicate, preferably a sodium aluminosilicate; and

a titanium dioxide, preferably in anatase form.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the amounts by weight of each of these compounds relative to the total weight of the combination, are respectively:

from 0.1 to 10% by weight of hydrogen peroxide,

from 80 to 98% by weight of sodium aluminosilicate, and from 1 to 10% by weight of titanium dioxide, preferably in anatase form.

According to another embodiment, the association according to the invention comprises:

a calcium peroxide; a potassium or sodium aluminosilicate, preferably a sodium aluminosilicate; and

- optionally a titanium dioxide, preferably in anatase form.

It will thus be possible to use an association comprising from 0.1 to 15% by weight of calcium peroxide and from 0.1 to 98% by weight of sodium aluminosilicate with respect to the total weight of the combination. The combination used in the present invention is anhydrous. In other words, the water content in the association is low. Thus, the amount of water does not generally exceed 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination. It may contain a small amount of water that usually comes from the raw materials used. The amount of water in the combination is preferably less than or equal to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.

The combination according to the invention is dispersed in a glycolic anhydride vehicle that is acceptable from a cosmetic or dermatological point of view.

By glycol carrier means a vehicle comprising at least one organic compound having at least two hydroxyl functions (referred to herein as glycol).

We can mention in particular:

glycerine;

monomeric glycols, in particular diols, such as in particular propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1, Propanediol, pentanediols, especially 1,5-pentanediol, decanediol, dodecanediol, and their ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monobutyl ether or 2-butoxyethanol;

polymeric glycols, such as in particular high or low molecular weight polyethylene glycols (PEG) and in particular polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or Polyethylene 400), PEG-6, and PEG-12.

It is preferred to use monomeric glycols, and in particular diols.

The glycolic vehicle according to the invention comprises from 0 to 40% by weight of PEG relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a variant of the invention, when the peroxide is hydrogen peroxide, the composition according to the invention comprises at least the anhydrous combination of a hydrogen peroxide and a basic compound dispersed in a glycolic anhydrous vehicle. cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable (without limitation of amount of PEG).

Preferably, the glycol present in the glycol carrier is a diol monomer, especially propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1 , 3 propanediol, pentanediols, especially 1,5-pentanediol, decanediol, dodecanediol, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, it is butylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol or propylene glycol, and even more preferably 1,3 propanediol.

Preferred PEGs include PEG-8, PEG-6, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the glycolic carrier according to the invention comprises at least two compounds chosen from monomeric glycols, PEGs and glycerine, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the glycolic carrier according to the invention comprises at least glycerine and at least one compound chosen from monomeric glycols, PEGs, and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, the glycol vehicle may comprise the following combinations:

- (propylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or 1.3 propanediol) and glycerine;

- (propylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or 1.3 propanediol) and PEG8;

- (propylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or 1.3 propanediol) and glycerin and PEG-8.

By way of example, the glycol vehicle may comprise the following combinations: - 1,3 propanediol and glycerine;

- 1, 3 propanediol and PEG8;

- 1, 3 propanediol and glycerin and PEG-8.

Advantageously, the glycol anhydrous vehicle according to the invention comprises butylene glycol or 1,3 propanediol and optionally PEG-8.

Advantageously, the anhydrous glycol vehicle according to the invention comprises 1,3-propanediol and optionally PEG-8.

Advantageously, the glycol vehicle will contain less than 50% of glycerol relative to the total weight of the glycol vehicle.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the glycol anhydrous vehicle contains a glycols / glycerine mixture, the glycerin content will be less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the anhydrous vehicle.

The amount of glycols present in the glycolic vehicle varies to a large extent, preferably its amount varies from 50 to 100% by weight and preferably from 70 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the glycol vehicle.

Oils such as alkanes, triglycerides, esters and ethers, alcohols, isosorbide ethers, or short esters of glutamic and succinic acid dC ₄ can also be added to the glycol carrier.

Examples of oils or other vehicles that may be mentioned include: linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, which may or may not be volatile, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; branched C 8 -C 18 alkanes, such as C 5 -C 16 isoalkanes, such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane; triglycerides, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids; or hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as, for example, sweet almond, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, coriander, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot oils. (Prunus Armenica OiI), macadamia, arara, rUniqeman, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (a mixture of cetylstearyl ethyl 2 hexanoate and isopropyl myristate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as isoketyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, there may also be mentioned perfluoromethyl and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1 ^®" and "FLUTEC PC3 ^® " by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ^®" and "PF 5060 ^®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ^®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 ^®" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ^®" by the company 3M; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; isosorbide ethers, such as dimethyl isosorbide; in particular, the dimethyl isosorbide marketed under the name ARLASOLVE DMI by the company UNIQUEMA will be used;

short dc ₄ esters of glutamic and succinic acid; mention may be made, for example, of diethyl succinate marketed by DSM or that of Morflex; diethyl glutamate sold under the name Polyaminon-15 by Nippon Fine Chemical Company, Ltd .; and

- their mixtures.

Preferably, use will be made of an oil selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons, esters or synthetic ethers or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. It may be advantageous to combine in this glycol / oily vehicle, emulsifying surfactants. Nonionic emulsifiers such as esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of glycerol (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) may be mentioned in particular; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as glyceryl stearate mixture stearate PEG 40. It may also be made of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product sold under the name ^® NF Chimexane by Chimex society.

In the composition according to the invention, the glycol vehicle is anhydrous. In other words, the water content in the glycol vehicle is low. This does not generally exceed 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous. The water content of the composition is in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 3%, particularly preferably less than or equal to 1%.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least the combination of hydrogen peroxide and a zeolite, dispersed in butylene glycol or 1,3 propanediol.

Since the composition according to the invention is intended for topical use on the skin, the glycolic carrier must be acceptable from a cosmetic or dermatological point of view, more particularly without any odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tugging or redness. unacceptable for the user. By a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.

The composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is intended for a cosmetic application.

The amount of the combination in the composition according to the invention is in particular between 0.1 and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 1 and 55%, between 2 and 50%, between 3 and and 45%, preferably between 5% and 40% and even more preferably between 10% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the combination is present in an amount of 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises, as an association, one of the peroxotitanic silicates sold by SELECTO under the trade names Selecto PTS 6000 and Selecto PTS 6000-10. Thus, the association can be in the form of particles. The size of the particles can vary to a large extent, it varies more specifically between 1 and 60 microns.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a composition as described above in which the combination corresponds to at least one of the peroxotitanic silicates sold by Selecto under the names Selecto PTS 6000 and Selecto PTS 6000- Dispersed in anhydrous butylene glycol. Advantageously, said combination is present in an amount ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, preferably from 30 to 40%, and in particular from 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one gelling agent or thickener. Those skilled in the art will take care to incorporate into the composition, in particular in the glycol anhydrous vehicle of the composition, any gelling agent compatible with a cosmetic or dermatological use. Mention may in particular be made, as a gelling agent, of alkyl polyethylene glycol (or alternatively referred to as PEG alkyl), such as in particular PEG 120 methyl di (or tri) -oleate (Noveon Glucamate DOE 120, for example), PEG 150 pentaerytrityl tetrastearate (Croda's Crothix, for example); cellulose derivatives, such as in particular hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (Klucel HF Pharm from Aqualon Hercules, for example); or poloxamers, such as in particular a condensate of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (for example: 128 EO / 54 OP / 128 EO) (MW: 14000) marketed under the SYNPERONIC PE / F108 denomination by Uniquema (INCI name: Poloxamer 338); or acrylic homo- and copolymers and homo- and copolymers of acrylamido methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS: Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (for example: Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant)).

The amount of gelling agent in the composition may vary to a large extent, it is preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to combine in the compositions according to the invention additives and / or cosmetic or dermatological active agents.

It may thus be advantageous to use foaming surfactants. Foaming surfactants are detergents and are distinguished from emulsifying surfactants by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc, 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, while that the foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a surfactant having an HLB greater than 20.

The surfactant may be present in a composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight. in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, or even from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.

As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. . As alkylpolyglucosides include eg decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C11 -polyglucoside (1.4)) as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ^® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP ^® by Cognis and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ^® by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 ^® by the company Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names Plantaren 1200 N ^® and 1200 ^® PLANTACARE by Cognis; coco-glucoside as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP ^® by Cognis; and their mixtures. The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, or else O-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2739556.

Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols include polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product sold under the name Chimexane ^® NF by Chimex.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen for example from soaps (alkaline salts of fatty acids), carboxylates, acylamino acids, amidoether carboxylates, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, isethionates, alkyl methyltaurates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylphosphates (mono or dialkylphosphates), their salts, and mixtures thereof. As carboxylates, mention may be made especially alkyl glycol carboxylic acids (or acid 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetic acid), and their salts such as for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ^® or Beaulight LCA-25N ^® by the company SANYO (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate), or its corresponding acid form marketed under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA (Acid Form) ^® by SANYO.

As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS 12, sodium lauroyl glutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11 and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by the company Seppic. under the name ORAMIX L 30. As alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of the lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants may be chosen, for example, from betaine derivatives, including amidopropylbetaines, amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, hydroxylsultaines and mixtures thereof.

As betaine derivatives include for example the coco betaine as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 ^® by Cognis; lauryl such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB ^® by Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ^® by Shin Nihon Rica; stearyl oxyethylenated (10 EO) as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine ^® by Shin Nihon Rica; cocamidopropyl betaine marketed for example under the name VELVETEX BK 35 ^® by Cognis; the undecylenamidopropyl betaine sold, for example under the name Amphoram U ^® by Ceca; and their mixtures. As amphoacetates and amphodiacetates, there may be mentioned for example N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-ethylenediamine disodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC ^® NP by the Rhodia Chimie company; N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from alkylpolyglucosides, betaine derivatives, alkylglycol carboxylic acids and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylphosphates, amphodiacetates, amphoacetates, alkylglycinates, acyls glutamates, acyls sarcosinates and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a surfactant that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from decyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, cocoyl betaine, lauroyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauramido propylbetaine and lauryl glycol. carboxylate, cocoampho (di) acetate, lauroampho (di) acetate, potassium lauryl phosphate, a mixture thereof. Preferred foaming surfactants include:

- sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the mixture sodium cocoyl isethionate / sodium isethionoate marketed by BASF under the name Jordapon CI P ^®; - decyl glucoside, such as the Plantacare 2000 UP ^® marketed by Cognis;

- potassium laurate, such as LAURATE Potassium DUB LK ^® marketed by Stearinerie Dubois;

- Sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids, such as aqueous 30% solution of lauroyl oat amino acids of the form of protected sodium salt (1, 4% phenonip) sold under the name Proteol OAT ^® by Seppic;

potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids, such as potassium-lauroyl wheat protein hydrolyzed in water at 25% stabilized (0.4-0.4% potassium phenon-sorbate), marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR ^® by Croda;

- polyglyceryl-3 hydroxylauryl ether or dodecanediol polyglycerolated (3.5 mol of glycerol), such as Chimexane ^® from Chimex;

- sodium lauryl ether sulfate, such as Texapon ^® AOS 225 UP Cognis; - N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-di sodium ethylene diamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate) as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentrate ^® NP by the company Rhodia Chimie;

cocaine betaine or cocoyl betaine in aqueous solution, such as Rhodia's MIRATAINE BB / FLA;

- PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or glyceryl cocoate oxyethylenated (7 EO), such as Cetiol ^® HE from Cognis;

- lauryl betaine as lauryldimethylamine betaine in 30% aqueous solution, sold under the name Empigen BB / LS ^® by Huntsman; - sodium cocoamphoacetate, such as N-cocyl amidoethyl, N-hydroxyethyl sodium glycinate in 32% aqueous solution sold under the name MIRANOL ULTRA C 32 ^® by Rhodia;

- lauryl sulfate triethanolamine or TEA lauryl sulphate, such as triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (70/30 C12 / C14) in 40% aqueous solution sold under the name TEXAPON ^® T 42 by Cognis;

- sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, sold under the names Beaulight SHAA ^® or Beaulight LCA-25N ^® by the company Sanyo (CTFA name: Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate) or its corresponding acid form sold under the name Beaulight SHAA (Acid Form) ^® by SANYO;

- lauryl phosphate sold by Kao under the name MAP 20 ^®;

- sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as Amilite GCS ^® 12 from Ajinomoto.

Exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof can also be used in the compositions of the invention.

As exfoliating particles, it is possible to use exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, the balls or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN.

710-20 by the company Equistar or as the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Colorless 2 by the company Dupont; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibers such as polyamide fibers, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Polymamide PULP 12185 SIZE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified starch or not, and in particular the starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly the "Aluminum Starch octenyl succinate" such that the product marketed by National Starch under the name Dry-Flo.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one filler.

These fillers can be any material that can mask the visible or tactile irregularities of the skin. These fillers can in particular modify the surface appearance of the skin by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect. As filler, the following compounds may be exemplified:

- porous silica microparticles such as Silica Beads ^® SB 150 and SB 700 medium size Myochi 5 .mu.m and SUNSPHERES H ^® series from Asahi Glass, H33, H51 size of respectively 3.5 and 5 .mu.m.

- hollow hemispherical particles silicone resin such as NLK 500 ^®, NLK 506 ^® and NLK 510 ^® Takemoto OII and Fat, described in particular in EP-A-1579849, - silicone resin powders such as silicone resin Tospearl ^® 145 A DE GE Silicone medium size 4.5 μm. - powders of acrylic copolymers, especially poly (meth) acrylate such as PMMA particles Jurimer MBI ^® Nihon Junyoki average size of 8 .mu.m, hollow PMMA spheres marketed under the name Covabead ^® LH 85 by Wackherr and the microspheres of vinylidene / acrylonithle / methylene methacrylate expanded sold under the name Expancel ^®.

- powders of waxes such as paraffin wax particles microloase ^® 114S Medium sized MicroPowders 7 .mu.m.

polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example FLOBEADS ^® EA

209 E Sumimoto average size of 10 microns.

crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100 ^® , KSP 101 ^® , KSP 102 ^® , KSP 103 ^® , KSP 104 ^® and KSP 105 ^® by the company Shin Etsu.

talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example the Cverleaf AR 80 ^® from Catalyst & Chemical.

talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics. - the hydrophilic fibers or natural or synthetic hydrophobic, inorganic or organic such as silk fibers, cotton, wool, flax fiber, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon ^®), of modified cellulose, poly-p-phenyleneterephthalamide fibers, acrylic fibers, polyolefin fibers, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ^®), insoluble collagen, polyester, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed of a mixture of polymers, resorbable synthetic fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. - silicone elastomers such as crosslinked spherical Trefil E- 505C E-506 ^® or C ^® home Dow Corning. - abrasive fillers, which via a mechanical effect a smoothing of the skin's microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as abrasive SP ^® of Semanez or powders nuts or shells (apricot or walnut e.g. Cosmetochem).

The charge can be a "soft focus" charge. By "soft-focus" load, we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.

The "soft-focus" fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, and powders. polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, include talc medium of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example medium talc number of 1, 8 microns and especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3 ^® by Nippon Talc , Nylon ^® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos ^® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those marketed by Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example H-53 ^® reference by Asahi Glass company, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the denomination SB-700 ^® or SB-150 ^® by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.

These exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also include all the constituents usually employed in the intended application. In particular, it is advantageous to use in the compositions, in addition to the combination described above, at least one ingredient and / or an additional skin care active ingredient, in particular oily skin.

It will be possible to combine the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent application WO 2004/105736, incorporated herein by reference, among which depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, sebum regulating agents, metal chelators , UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the compositions used may further comprise at least one desquamating agent and / or at least one soothing agent. By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol;

or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents of mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminethacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As soothing agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives thereof (I glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, the phycosaccharides of the company Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the canola oil, the bisabolol and the extracts of chamomile, the allantoin, the Sepepital EPC (Seppic vitamin E and C) diesterphosphoric acid, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rosehip musca, black currant, ecchium, fish, plankton extract, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (sodiu m palmitoylproline and water-lily alba) from Seppic, Pygeum extract, Boswellia serrata extract, Centipeda cunnighami extract, Helianthus annuus extract, Linum usitatissimum extract, tocothenols, Cola nitida extracts, piperonal extract, clove extract, Epilobium Angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.

These active agents will generally be present in the compositions of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields and compatible with the characteristics of said composition.

The composition can be used in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art. In particular, it may be envisaged to apply the composition directly to the skin or to dilute it beforehand in a suitable solvent. For example, it is possible to envisage mixing the anhydrous composition according to the invention with a particular solvent in an extemporaneous manner. In particular, the composition comprising the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycol anhydrous vehicle according to the invention may be mixed with water just before application to the skin.

The extemporaneous application of the composition may be envisaged according to different embodiments. It is thus possible to envisage the use of a composition comprising the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycol anhydrous vehicle, mixed just before application to the skin to a second composition comprising an aqueous system. In another embodiment, a first composition comprising a peroxide in a glycol vehicle is mixed with a second composition comprising a basic compound in an aqueous system just prior to application to the skin.

In a further embodiment, a first composition comprising a basic compound in a glycol vehicle is mixed with a second composition comprising a peroxide in an aqueous system just prior to application to the skin.

In the last two embodiments, the glycol vehicle is as defined above. However, it may not be anhydrous.

The composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a makeup product.

This composition may constitute a mask, a cream for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, make-up removing creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams); cleansing milk; a lotion, gel or mousse for the care of the skin, such as a cleaning lotion.

According to one particular embodiment, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic assembly consisting of two compositions, said assembly comprising at least one peroxide and a basic compound packaged in one of the compositions or in two separate compositions, at least one of two compositions comprising a glycol vehicle and the other an aqueous system, said assembly not comprising the mixture of peroxide and basic compound in the composition comprising an aqueous system.

If the peroxide and the basic compound are packaged in the same composition, this composition is anhydrous. So, the glycol vehicle will be anhydrous in the case where the peroxide and the basic compound are packaged in the same composition.

The glycol carrier may be non-anhydrous in the case where the peroxide and the basic compound are separately packaged in two separate compositions.

According to a first embodiment, the cosmetic assembly comprises a first composition comprising at least the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycol anhydrous vehicle, and a second composition comprising at least one aqueous compound promoting solubilization of the first composition.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic assembly comprises a first composition comprising at least one peroxide in a glycol vehicle, and a second composition comprising at least one basic compound and an aqueous system promoting the solubilization of the first composition.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic assembly comprises a first composition comprising at least one basic compound in a glycol vehicle, and a second composition comprising at least one peroxide and an aqueous compound promoting the solubilization of the first composition.

The components included in the assembly according to the invention are as defined above.

Among the aqueous systems promoting the solubilization of the first composition, mention may in particular be made of water, a mixture of water and alcohols or a mixture of water and glycols, a mixture of water and oils ( emulsions) or a mixture of water / alcohol / glycol / oil. Among the glycols, mention may be made of those identified above, and in particular propylene glycol. Among the oils, one may include those identified above. Among the alcohols, there may be mentioned ethanol.

These systems may further comprise at least one foaming surfactant as described above.

The first composition comprising the glycol vehicle is mixed with the composition comprising the aqueous system extemporaneously. In particular, the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention are mixed just before application to the skin.

When they contain at least one aqueous system, the compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-solid consistency. milk-type liquid, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (HIE) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or gel type, or moreover, multiple emulsions (W / O / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The compositions or the cosmetic unit once mixed, according to the invention, have in particular a brightening effect and a positive effect on the radiance of the complexion, they make it possible to fade the age spots and / or have a positive effect on the skin. appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin. The compositions or the cosmetic unit once mixed, according to the invention, also make it possible to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the age spots, or to improve the behavior of the skin. makeup Accordingly, the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to the invention or of the cosmetic assembly whose compositions have been mixed before application .

More specifically, the invention relates to a method for reducing skin imperfections, acne blemishes and / or lesions, for smoothing the cutaneous relief, for making the pores less apparent, the microrelief and / or the less visible wrinkles to restore radiance to the skin, especially dull, ashy or dark skin, and / or to improve the appearance of oily skin, in particular by promoting the mattness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the skin, radiance of the complexion, homogenize the complexion, reduce stains, especially age spots or due to the sun, and / or improve the strength of makeup, including the application to the skin of a composition according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, said method according to the invention further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of the composition, or the cosmetic assembly once mixed.

The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as described above, to improve the appearance of the skin, and more specifically to reduce skin imperfections, blemishes and / or acne lesions, for smooth the cutaneous relief, to make the pores less apparent, the microrelief and / or the less visible wrinkles, to restore radiance to the skin, in particular the dull, ashy or dark skin, and / or to improve the appearance of the skin. oily skin, in particular by promoting the dullness of the skin, to lighten the skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to homogenize the complexion, to diminish the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or to improve the behavior of the skin. makeup, comprising applying to the skin a composition according to the invention. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of a composition as described above or of the cosmetic assembly. once mixed.

According to a preferred embodiment, said cosmetic process for the care of oily skin further comprises a rinsing step after application to the skin of said compositions, or of the cosmetic assembly once mixed.

In particular, the composition or the cosmetic assembly is applied to areas of the face or forehead having a gloss.

According to a particular mode, the skin may be wetted, prior to the application of the composition or the cosmetic assembly once mixed, according to the invention.

The methods according to the invention are more particularly intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.

According to a preferred embodiment, after application to the skin, the composition is rinsed after a pause advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes.

The composition may be used as a mask, preferably with a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly application frequency. It can also be used in cure with, for example, a daily application or twice daily for one or two weeks.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). Examples

EXAMPLE 1 Measurement of Activity in Different Glycolated Solvents The lightening activity of the following compounds in various solvents is measured in a dye bleaching test: H 2 O 2 = concentrated solution of Sigma Aldrich 30% H 2 O 2

Selecto PTS 6000 containing 0.2% H ₂ O ₂ equivalent in the raw material (calculated by measuring the product's peroxide index), ie 0.07% H ₂ O ₂ equivalent in the dispersion containing 35% from PTS 6000.

The dye solution or "solution X" is LCF (Sensant) brilliant blue FC disodium salt solution (Cl: 42090). The dye solution is prepared as follows: 15 mg of dye powder are solubilized in 50 ml of borate buffer pH 10.7 and then rediluted to 1/50 ^th . The borate buffer is prepared as follows: 4.77 g of disodium tetraborate, decahydrate (Na ₂ B ₄ O ₇₁ OH ₂ O, M = 381, 37 g / mol) are dissolved with approximately 500 ml of water. The pH is adjusted to 10.7 with addition of a sodium hydroxide solution (approximately 250 ml of 0.1 N NaOH supplemented to 1 liter).

Method - the peroxide solution is diluted 1: 20 in the buffered solution solution X solution defined above, buffered at pH 10.5:

. 14.3% of CaO ₂ concentrated to 60% are dispersed either in PEG 8 or in glycerine. 1 g of this dispersion is diluted in 19 g of solution X; . on the other hand, 35% of PTS 6000 from the company Selecto are dispersed either in PEG 8 or in butylene glycol or in glycerin. 1 g of this dispersion is diluted in 19 g of solution X.

After stirring the mixture in the dark for 10 minutes, the dispersion is filtered (0.45 μm cellulose filter) and the optical density is measured over a range of 400.degree.

800] nm at 25 ° C. The dye absorbs at 630nm. The bleaching efficiency is translated by the percentage of fading at t = 10min (ie [DOtio _mm (mixture) - DOtiomin (dye) / DOto (colorant)] X 100. The change in OD reflects the activity of the H2O2 solution.

The results are given in the following table.

^* = Selecto PTS 6000 containing 0.2% H2O2 equivalent in the raw material (calculated by measuring the product's peroxide value), ie 0.07% H ₂ O ₂ equivalent in the dispersion containing 35% of PTS 6000 ..

CaO2 = Calcium peroxide (60% Active Material) SPCH containing 28% H2O2 equivalent in the raw material (ie 4% H2O2 equivalent in the dispersion).

These results show the lightening activity of the peroxide compounds tested in a glycol vehicle, with a better activity in monomeric or polymeric glycols, than in glycerin.

Example 2 In Vivo Test on Oily Skin

A product containing 35% peroxotitanium silicate PTS 6000 dispersed in butylene glycol was tested on 12 women aged 20 to 42 years with oily acne prone skin. It was applied in half-face once a day for 5 days. The product was massaged, then wiped with cotton and rinsed with clear water after 10 min.

After one week, there is a significant decrease in the number of retentional lesions, a significant improvement in the appearance of pores (size, relief), and an improvement of dullness. Women have generally perceived the effectiveness of the product on oily skin, imperfections and the relief of the skin.

Example 3 In Vivo Test on Stains

A product containing 35% Selecto peroxotitanium silicate PTS 6000 dispersed in butylene glycol was tested in 10 women aged 46 to 61 years, with 1 to 2 actinic lentigo pigment spots on each hand. The subjects are of type I to III. The product was applied twice daily for 10 minutes followed by rinsing with water; and this for 5 days.

A significant efficacy of the treated area versus an untreated area with a lightening effect on spots and skin tone is measured.

Example 4 In Vivo Test on Complexion Complexion and / or Oily Skin

A product containing 35% Selecto peroxotitanium silicate PTS 6000 dispersed in butylene glycol was tested on 6 women aged 27 to 34 with fairly different skin types and color tones. The subjects are of Indian type, with a relatively dark skin. The product was applied in a half face by massage for 10 minutes, followed by rinsing with water with a sponge.

A significant efficacy of the treated area versus the untreated area was observed. The subjects particularly noted a lightening effect, tighter pores, a more even, less scruffy complexion, a smoother, softer skin, less accentuated (or rested) features, and / or drier or less glossy skin. , especially for those with oily skin.

EXAMPLE 5 Examples of Formulations Method of Preparation For the following examples, a glycol gel is made with the thickening polymer. Is then incorporated at T ⁰ C ambient peroxide. Mode of application

The product is applied to the face in a thick layer on previously moistened skin. After 3 to 10 minutes break, rinse thoroughly.

(1) PTS6000 from Selecto (the percentages by weight or H2O2 equivalent of the various components of this raw material are indicated)

(2) GLUCAMATE DOE 120 / NOVEON

(3) CROTHIX CRODA

Claims

A skin care and / or cleansing composition, comprising at least the anhydrous combination of a peroxide and a basic compound, dispersed in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable anhydrous glycol vehicle, the composition comprising 0 to 40% by weight of PEG relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition of claim 1, wherein the peroxide is hydrogen peroxide or a metal peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the peroxide is a metal peroxide selected from sodium peroxide, calcium peroxide, barium peroxide, magnesium, lithium and zinc.

4. Skin care and / or cleansing composition, comprising at least the anhydrous combination of a hydrogen peroxide and a basic compound, dispersed in a glycolic acceptable anhydrous vehicle in terms of cosmetics or dermatology.

The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the basic compound is a zeolite.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising a metal oxide.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the metal oxide is titanium dioxide.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the glycol of the glycolic carrier is selected from glycerin, monomeric glycols, polymeric glycols, and a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the glycol of the glycolized vehicle is selected from monomeric glycols, and in particular diols.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the glycol carrier comprises at least two compounds selected from glycerin, monomeric glycols, PEGs and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the glycol carrier comprises at least glycerin and at least one compound selected from monomeric glycols, PEGs, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the glycol carrier comprises butylene glycol or 1,3 propanediol and optionally PEG-8.

13. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least the combination of hydrogen peroxide and a zeolite in butylene glycol.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, the composition further comprising at least one additional ingredient and / or active skin care selected from depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, sebum-regulating agents, metal chelators, UV filters, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, exfoliating fillers or particles, desquamating agents, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the amount of peroxide in the combination is such that the equivalent content of H2O2 in the association is between 0.05 and 5%, preferably between 0.05 and 4%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the amount of the basic compound in the combination is between 0.01 and 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the combination, of preferably from 0.1 to 98%, preferably from 5 to 98%, more preferably from 50 to 98% and even more preferably from 80 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the combination.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the amount of metal oxide is 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the combination, preferably 2 to 8% preferably from 3 to 7%, more preferably from 4 to 6%.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the amount of the combination in the composition is between 0.1 and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 1 and 55%, between 2 and 50%, between 3 and 45%, preferably between 5% and 40%.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it further comprises at least one gelling agent or a thickener.

20. Cosmetic assembly consisting of two distinct compositions, said assembly comprising at least one peroxide and a basic compound packaged in one of said two compositions or in two separate compositions, at least one of the two compositions comprising a vehicle glycol and the other an aqueous system, said assembly not comprising the mixture of peroxide and the basic compound in the composition comprising an aqueous system.

The cosmetic assembly of claim 20, wherein the first composition comprises a combination of a peroxide and a basic compound in a glycol anhydrous vehicle, and the second composition comprises an aqueous system.

The cosmetic assembly of claim 20, wherein the first composition comprises a peroxide in a glycol vehicle and the second composition comprises a basic compound in an aqueous system.

The cosmetic assembly of claim 20, wherein the first composition comprises a basic compound in a glycol vehicle and the second composition comprises a peroxide in an aqueous system.

24. A cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition according to one of claims 1 to 19 or the cosmetic assembly according to one of claims 20 to 23, including the compositions were mixed before said application.

25. The method as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the improvement of the appearance of the skin comprises the attenuation of skin imperfections, acne spots and / or lesions, the smoothing of the cutaneous relief, the Obtaining less visible pores, microrelief and / or less visible wrinkles, improving the radiance of the skin, in particular dull, ashy or dark skin, or improving the appearance of the skin fat, in particular by promoting the mattness of the skin, the lightening of the skin, the improvement of the homogeneity of the complexion, the reduction of the spots, in particular the spots of old age or due to the sun, and / or the improvement of holding makeup.

26. The method of claim 24 or 25, further comprising a rinsing step after application to the skin of the composition or the cosmetic assembly.

27. A cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, in particular with a view to mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereto of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 or Cosmetic assembly according to one of Claims 20 to 23, the compositions of which have been mixed before application.

28. Cosmetic process according to claim 27, characterized in that the composition or the cosmetic assembly is applied to the areas of the face or forehead having a gloss of the skin.

29. The method of claim 27 or 28, further comprising a rinsing step after application to the skin of the composition or the cosmetic assembly.

30. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 24 to 29, characterized in that it is intended for persons having a skin of phototype III to VI.