WO2009138194A1

WO2009138194A1 - Cosmetic preparations against dandruff

Info

Publication number: WO2009138194A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/003296
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Schmidt-Rose; Heike FÖLSTER; Henrike Neuhoff; Michael WÖHRMANN; Marie Koswig
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2008-05-13
Filing date: 2009-05-08
Publication date: 2009-11-19
Also published as: DE102008001770A1; EP2299968A1

Abstract

Cosmetic preparations containing a cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer, obtained by the co-polymerization of butyl acrylate, ethyl trimonium chloride methacrylate and styrene, and not more than 20% by weight of surface active substances.

Description

Cosmetic preparations for dandruff

The scalp is - like the rest of the skin too - subject to a constant Emeerung process. Normally, new skin cells take 28 days to get to the surface of the skin, where they are repelled as tiny, barely visible hornbeams.

This process is disturbed by scaly skin. Accelerated cell regeneration and incomplete keratinization result in the detachment of larger corneal aggregates, which can be seen as whitish dandruff even with the naked eye (pityriasis simplex capitis).

This is cosmetically very disturbing for the persons concerned, especially with dark hair or dark clothing, and they are looking for a remedy.

Dandruff can be favored by different factors. These include a hereditary predisposition, the tendency to increased Taigproduktion (seborrhea), hormone fluctuations, stress, climatic conditions or wrong hair care. However, it is generally accepted that the colonization of the scalp with yeast fungi of the genus Malassezia provides a decisive contribution. These fungi metabolize skin lipids and the resulting metabolic fatty acids, which have an unfavorable effect on the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes.

Ro, B./., And Dawson, T.L. (2005). The role of sebaceous gland activity and scalp microϋoral metabolism in the etiology of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 10, 194-197.

Hort W, Nilles M, Mayser P. Malassezia yeasts and their significance in dermatology. Dermatologist. 2006 JuI; 57 (7): 633-43

Although scientific studies have not shown a clear quantitative relationship between the amount of Malassezia and the severity of dandruff, it has been shown that a reduction in the colonization of the scalp causes a significant improvement in the condition of most people. The common cosmetic preparations, especially shampoos and scalp tonics, therefore contain antifungal agents that inhibit the growth of Malassezien or kill them. Typical examples are octopiroctone olamine, ketoconazole or zinc pyrithione.

Germicidal agents carry the risk of intolerance reactions, as they can not destroy the cells of the microorganisms as cell toxins, in addition, can form resistances that can adversely affect the balance of the skin flora. Another negative aspect of germicidal agents is their kinetics of efficacy, which is the use for KuizΛ eiLbeπanciiuπgen such. As a cleaning process followed by rinsing, impossible.

Anti-microbial agents are commonly referred to as antiadhesives and show no such negative effects. They bind germs without killing them and thus inactivate their action on the skin. The formation of resistance is excluded in consequence. They also have no cell disrupting effect, which eliminates the risk of such induced intolerance reactions and they act immediately.

DE 19503423 describes carbohydrates which have such an antiadhesive effect; moreover, chitin derivatives, eg. Chitosan as described in DE 102005048776, and many cationic polymers also have such an antiadhesive effect.

Nevertheless, the use of such agents has not prevailed. The reason for this is considered to be an insufficiently antiadhesive effect of many of these active ingredients and a frequent inactivation due to the influence of the matrix formulation. Some, such as B. Chitosan also act as deposition Aids, resulting in an accumulation of irritating Noxen such. B. surfactants on the skin and thus leads to a potential source of irritation.

About an anti-adhesive effect of such substances on yeasts, especially the genus Malassezia, has not been described.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, nonpolar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they provide for a lowering of the surface tension of the water, the wetting of the skin, the facilitation of dirt removal and dissolution, a gentle rinsing and, as desired, for foam regulation. The hydrophilic portions of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic portions are generally non-polar hydrocarbon residues of the hydrophilic part of the molecule, whereby four groups can be distinguished:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and • nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution, they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg Cl ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Typical of non-ionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic Surfactants Advantageously used anionic surfactants are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolysed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninates

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,

2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG-4-lauramide carboxylate, 3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13-carboxylate and sodium

PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

1. Acyl-isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoylisethionate,

2. alkylaryl sulphonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate and PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinate.

such as

Sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ -i ₃ -pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

1. alkylamines,

2. Alkylimidazoles, 3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently bonded to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants may furthermore preferably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionic Surfactants Advantageous nonionic surfactants are

1. Alcohols, fatty alcohols

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. Esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. Ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, Decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose ester, ether

7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

invention

It has surprisingly been found that cosmetic preparations containing a cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer obtainable by copolymerization of butyl acrylate, ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate and styrene remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

It is preferred if the cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer is a polymer having the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylates / styrene copolymer".

Polymers whose cationic charges are protected against degradation or inactivation and are still effective even after a prolonged period are particularly advantageous. Such protection may be by the cationic group of adjacent nonionic side chains.

Such polymers are for. As described in US 20050003163.

Particularly advantageous is a butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylates / styrene copolymer, which is sold by the company Dow Reichhold Specialty latex under the trade name Poy-Saf ™ 5600. PolySaf 5600 is offered as ~ 40% aqueous suspension and can be easily incorporated into a wide variety of cosmetic formulations.

It has surprisingly been found that the polymers according to the invention prevent or reduce the adhesion of yeasts of the genus Malassezia to outermost skin layers, in particular to the Comeozyten. As a result, the polymers mentioned are suitable in a special way for skin-friendly anti-dandruff treatment.

It is particularly advantageous if the cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer in active contents of 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt .-% is present. The invention also includes the use of preparations according to one of the claims as agents for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of dandruff. Proof of effectiveness:

Yeast cells of the genus Malassezia are rinsed with phosphate buffer from an agar plate, washed and incubated for 1 hour with the raw materials (anti-adhesives) or water. Double-sided tape is glued to a slide and this, with the sticky side of the tesa film, is repeatedly pressed onto the same skin surface on the forearm. This is repeated until the bond strength has dropped sharply. It is checked microscopically that at least 95% of the area is covered with corneocytes. On the Tesastreifen now a 4-chamber system is applied and placed in the various chambers, the prepared yeast raw material suspensions. After one hour, the yeast suspensions and chambers are removed, the slides are washed and stained with crystal violet solution for 1 minute. After washing and drying the slide, the individual fields can be counted in the microscope (yeast cells per cm ² ). The rate of adhesion of the control batch, in which yeasts (not pre-treated with raw material) and corneocytes are incubated, is defined as a 100% relative adhesion rate. All other approaches are calculated in relation to it. Values <100% indicate an inhibition of the mycotic adhesion, values> 100% an increased mycotic adhesion.

Yeasts Placebo Verum

Fig. Anti-adhesive effectiveness of a cationic polymer on yeasts of the genus Malassezia The figure shows the example of PolySaf 5600 (40% aqueous dispersion), the adhesion-reducing properties on yeasts of the genus Malassezia and thus that the polymers according to the invention an anti-dandruff effect is attributed.

The following figure shows the efficacy of the PolySaf 5600 polymer from shampoo formulations on the adhesion of scale-related yeasts in the adhesion assay described above. It could be shown that the pure shampoo formulation has a slight adhesion-reducing effect, but PolySaf 5600 reduces the adhesion of Malassezien to 9%.

pos. Control Placebo wfth cationic polymer

Fig .: Anti-adhesive effectiveness of shampoo formulations on yeasts of the genus Malassezia

In addition, formulations based on such combinations may contain other components such. Preservatives, stabilizers, buffering agents, thickening agents, perfumes, pearlescing agents, opacifiers, complexing agents, humectants, solvents, dyes, oils, extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, UV filters.

The preparations according to the invention can also be combined with other active ingredients so as to improve the effect or product performance. For example, the addition of cooling active ingredients such as menthol or CoolAct 10 from the company Tasagoago is advantageous. Also advantageous may be the addition of one or more other antimicrobial and / or antimycotic substances, in particular climazole, ketoconazole, octopirox, zinc pyrithione, selenium disulphide.

Also advantageous may be the addition of substances that act to soothe or nourish the skin. These include, for example, allantoin, laureth-9, urea, licochalcone, panthenol, hamamelis virginiana, bisabolol, chamomilla recutita, shea butter and glycerin.

Also advantageous is the addition of hair-care substances such as hair conditioners. This hair conditioner (English, conditioner) maintain the hair, improve its manageability and its grip ^• ÜMU eύiüiieπ his Gianz. Contrarians, unlike most other shampoo ingredients, put on hair and stay there after rinsing (film former). Due to their molecular structure, they attach themselves to the damaged areas of the cuticle of the hair and smooth the hair. This makes the hair less rough and brittle, the hairstyle gets much more shine and is easier to comb. Also, the hair becomes less sensitive to electrostatic charging.

The most important hair-conditioning substances in shampoos are the polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds. Cationic cellulose derivatives and polysaccharides can also be used. Furthermore, silicone compounds are used for conditioning.

Conditioners advantageous according to the invention can be selected from the compounds listed in the table.

Table: Inventive Film Formers

Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are cellulose derivatives and quaternized guar gum derivatives, in particular guar hydroxypropylammonium chloride (for example Jaguar Excel®, Jaguar C 162® from Rhodia, CAS 65497-29-2, CAS 39421-75-5). represents.

Also nonionic poly-N-vinylpyrrolidone / polyvinyl acetate copolymers (eg Luviskol VA 64W®, BASF), anionic acrylate copolymers (eg Luviflex soft®, BASF), and / or amphoteric amide / acrylate / methacrylate copolymers (eg. B. Amphomer®, National Starch) can be advantageously used according to the invention as a conditioner.

The invention encompasses the use of preparations as an antidandruff product, in particular but not limited to shampoo, conditioner, cures, lotions or tonics. But other hair care or hairstyling products are preferred.

Examples:

Pearlescent shampoo

Clear shampoo

Mild shampoo

Leave-on

flush

Baim

tonic

hair treatments

hair fluid

Hairspray example recipes

Example Recipes Mousse

Example Recipes Gels

( ^* ) in particular PEG / PPG-20/6 Dimethicone from Goldschmidt

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations containing a cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer obtainable by copolymerization of butyl acrylate, ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate and styrene and at most 20 wt .-% of surface-active substances.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that the surface-active substances from the group of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants or mixtures thereof are selected.

3. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of surface-active substances is at most 18 wt .-%.

4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized marked net, that the content of surface-active substances is at most 15 wt .-%.

5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of anionic surface-active substances is at most 20 wt .-%.

6. Preparations according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the content of anionic surface-active substances is at most 15 wt .-%.

7. Preparations according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that the content of anionic surface-active substances is at most 12 wt .-%.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic charges of the cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer are protected by adjacent nonionic side chains from degradation or inactivation.

9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer is a polymer having the INCI name "butyl acrylate / ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylates / styrene copolymer".

10. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic styrene / acrylate copolymer in active contents of 0.01 to 4 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt .-% is present.

11. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims as anti-dandruff product, in particular as shampoo, conditioner, cure, lotion, tonic.

12. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of dandruff.