WO2011012737A1

WO2011012737A1 - Combination of active cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic composition obtained therefrom and use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2011012737A1
Application number: PCT/ES2010/000115
Authority: WO
Inventors: Beatriz CORBELLA HERNÁNDEZ; Soma BEÁ ARDEBOL; Juan BALLESTEROS MARTÍN; Ángel Muñoz Ruiz
Original assignee: Farmalider, S.A.
Priority date: 2009-07-30
Filing date: 2010-03-22
Publication date: 2011-02-03
Also published as: ES2353541B1; ES2353541A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel combination of active cosmetic ingredients including resin from Croton lechleri and panthenol having antioxidant properties. Moreover it relates to cosmetic compositions including said combination and to the utilisation thereof to reduce the effects of irritant damage to the skin, in particular the effects of laser radiation thereon.

Description

COMBINATION OF COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITION OBTAINED FROM THE SAME AND

ITS USE

Field of the technique

The present invention relates to a new combination of cosmetic active ingredients with antioxidant properties that can be used to reduce the effects of irritating aggressions to the skin. State of the prior art

The effects on the skin of the aggressions produced by the external environment (solar radiation, cold, water, wind, etc.), as well as due to the passage of time, produce changes in the skin caused by oxidative chemical reactions, which generate a deterioration of its properties, accelerating the aging process.

In order to minimize the damage caused by both the environmental aggression and the effects due to aging, the topical application of cosmetic products that include active ingredients of natural origin with anti-inflammatory or antioxidant properties has been described.

In the PCT patent application WO-A-2004/103320 topical compositions are described to reduce the effects of chronological aging and skin photoaging. Such compositions include, as active components, an agonist of the liver X receptors (Liver-X-Receptor, LXR) and retinoic acid or a precursor thereof. Among these agonists, the resin of dragon blood, from the Daemorgos draco tree, is cited. In the PCT patent application WO-A-2004/103376 topical compositions are described to increase the synthesis in the skin of decorin and fibronectin, connective tissue proteins, and, thereby, reduce the effects of chronological aging and photoaging of Ia skin. More specifically, an oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion containing dragon blood resin from the dragon tree Daemonorops tree is described.

In the US patent US 3809749 topical pharmaceutical compositions are described that include extracts of C. lechlerí as the main active ingredient and that are suitable for the treatment of small cuts, abrasions and wounds in the skin. Said compositions include cosmetic components for obtaining creams, ointments, lotions, emulsions of the water-in-oil type (W / O), emulsions of the oil-in-water type (O / W). Formulations that include other active ingredients, for example antibiotics and local anesthetics, are also described to obtain complementary effects.

The application of laser radiation on the skin, both for aesthetic and therapeutic reasons, results in different side and side effects due essentially to the heat accumulated on the cells of the epidermis and the dermis, and the reactive inflammatory response against

The physical aggression that this light radiation induces in the area of exposure.

All this translates into a dehydrated skin, with solutions of continuity on its surface, unstructured, thinned and edematized, which usually causes patients to feel a sensation of tightness, itching and local stinging, becoming more likely to experience superinfections and subsequently to the appearance of hyper or residual post-inflammatory hypopigmentations, as well as a skin where expression wrinkles and tension lines stand out. The cosmetic compositions described in the state of the art are not very appropriate to alleviate the effects produced by the laser radiation on the skin.

Therefore, there is still a need for an appropriate cosmetic composition to reduce irritating aggressions to

The skin produced when laser radiation is applied for dermatological purposes.

Object of the invention

An object of the invention is a combination of cosmetic active ingredients. Also an integral part of the invention is a cosmetic composition that includes said combination.

Another object of the invention is the use of said combination in the preparation of a cosmetic composition to reduce the effects of aggressions on the skin. It is also the object of the invention to use the cosmetic composition obtained from the combination of the invention to reduce the effects of aggressions on the skin.

Also part of the object of the invention is a method for reducing the effects of aggressions on the skin, which comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition or combination of the invention on the skin.

Detailed description of the invention

The authors of the present invention have now discovered a combination of cosmetic active ingredients with antioxidant properties that surprisingly have a synergistic effect and that is appropriate to reduce irritating aggressions to the skin, in particular the effects of laser radiation. - TO -

Therefore, an object of the present invention is a combination of active cosmetic ingredients comprising: a) Croton lechleή resin, and b) panthenol. The proportion between Crotón lechlerí resin and panthenol is between 1: 500 and 1: 2, expressed in weight: weight, preferably between 1: 200 and 1: 10, especially between 1: 100 and 1: 20, with special preference between 1: 50 and 1: 30 and in particular between 1: 45 and 1: 35. In an embodiment of the invention, the particularly preferred ratio is 1: 40.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention includes a combination of active ingredients consisting essentially of Croton lechlerí resin and panthenol.

Crotón lechlerí resin Crotón lechlerí is the scientific name of the tree called

"dragon blood", belonging to the family of the Euphorbiaceae. From this tree a resin is extracted whose most active components are proanthocyanidins and the taspin alkaloid. Other components of the resin are lignans, polyunsaturated fatty acids, pigments and flavonoids. In the review article by K. Jones, Review of Drago's Blood

(Croton Lechlerí) - A South American Tree Sap in the Treatment of Diarrhea, Inflammation, Insect Bites, Viral Infections, and Wounds: Traditional Uses to Clinical Research, J. Altern. Complem Med., 2003, 9 (6), 877-896, describe the traditional properties and applications of C. lechlerí resin. The C. lechleri resin can be found commercially, for example in the form of a hydro-glycol solution (water and propylene glycol), under the name Dragon's Blood, from the Cobiosa company, the resin content being between 1% and 5% in weight. Panthenol

Panthenol is a compound that belongs to the group of vitamin B and is transformed to pantothenic acid (vitamin B ₅ ) in the skin, so it is also called provitamin B ₅ .

Said compound is well known in the cosmetic industry, since it has been used for years as a skin moisturizing agent, also presenting anti-inflammatory properties.

Panthenol is a chemical compound that has a chiral carbon atom, therefore existing in the enantiomeric form, of which only D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) is biologically active. However, both enantiomers have moisturizing activity and both D-panthenol and the racemic mixture that includes D-panthenol and L-panthenol can be used in cosmetic compositions.

In the combination of the invention, panthenol is selected from D-panthenol and the racemic mixture, preferably D-panthenol is used. Compositions

Also object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

The combination of the invention can be formulated in the form of cosmetic compositions to facilitate its application.

In general, such cosmetic compositions contain: - between 1% and 20% by weight of the combination of the invention, and

- between 80% and 99% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

The compositions of the invention preferably contain between 1.5% and 10% by weight of the combination of the invention, especially between 2% and 8% by weight and especially preferably between 4% and 6% by weight of the combination of invention. In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains between 1% and 5% by weight, especially between 2% and 4% by weight and in particular between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight. weight of a combination of Croton lechleri and panthenol resin containing between 1% and 5% by weight of resin and between 0.5% and 5% by weight, especially between 1% and 4% in weight and in particular between 1.5% and 3% by weight of panthenol.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the composition of the invention, it contains 3% by weight of a combination of Croton lechleri and panthenol resin containing between 1.5% and 1.75% by weight of resin and 2 % by weight of panthenol, especially 3% by weight of a combination of Croton lechleri and panthenol containing between 1.5% and 1.75% by weight of resin and 2% by weight of D-panthenol.

The compositions of the invention include a cosmetically acceptable vehicle in which the cosmetic ingredients are dissolved, emulsified, dispersed or suspended.

Said vehicle is selected from water, a water miscible non-aqueous vehicle, for example ethanol, isopropanol, and a non-aqueous non-aqueous vehicle Water miscible, for example paraffin oil. Preferably the compositions of the invention include water as a vehicle.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain, in addition to the combination of the invention, at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, for example cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliary products and additional additives, which can be selected from the group consisting of surfactants and emulsifiers, lipid compounds and emollients, consistency factors and thickeners, stabilizers, hydrotropes, preservatives, essences, dyes and mixtures thereof. They may also include other components such as silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV sun protection factors, smokers, self tanners or tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents). Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain, in addition to the combination of the invention, an additional cosmetic ingredient selected from the group consisting of surfactants and emulsifiers, lipid compounds and emollients, consistency factors and thickening agents, hydrotropes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

The composition obtained from the combination of ingredients of the present invention can be administered in various cosmetic presentations, preferably these are in the form of sprayable creams, lotions, milks and emulsions. Such compositions contain water and a lipophilic phase and are generally in the form of emulsions or dispersions, for example of the oil-in-water type (ONSI), water in oil QNIO), multiple emulsions (W / O / W) or emulsions of the PIT type , as described in Spanish patent ES 2169908-T3, or as microemulsions. They are preferably in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain: between 1% and 10% by weight of the combination of the invention,

- between 5% and 50% by weight of at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, and

- between 40% and 94% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

In this preferred embodiment, the content of additional cosmetic ingredient present in the cosmetic composition of the invention is between 10% and 45% by weight, especially between 15% and 35% by weight and in particular between 20 % and 25% by weight, with respect to the total composition.

In this preferred embodiment, the content of the vehicle present in the cosmetic composition of the invention is comprised between the

50% and 90% by weight, especially between «55% and 87% by weight and in particular between 65% and 85% by weight, with respect to the total composition.

Additional cosmetic active ingredients

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention also includes a cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of: Centella asiatica extract, aloe vera gel, Rosehip oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, glycyrrhetic acid, vitamin E and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Centella asiatica is a small annual climbing plant of the Apiaceae family, which grows in tropical areas. It is also known by Gotu Kola. The main components of this plant are triterpenic derivatives, abundant tannins, essential oil, phytosterols and mucilages. It is traditionally used for its healing and relaxing power, since it favors the synthesis of collagen. In general, Centella asiatica extract is marketed as a hydro-glycolic extract (water and propylene glycol), for example through the Provital company, and has a dry residue comprised between 2.5% and 3.5% by weight.

In the composition of the invention, the content of extract of Centella asiatica ranges between 1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight, especially between 2.5% and 3, 5% by weight. Aloe vera gel is obtained from the succulent Aloe barbadensis plant of the Asphodelaceae family. The leaves of this plant are composed of three layers: an outer leathery protection, a fibrous layer under it and a jelly-like heart where it stores its water reserves and with which pharmaceutical and cosmetic products are prepared. The use of aloe vera gel for the treatment of skin conditions is remarkably widespread. In the market you can find the aloe vera gel extracted from the plant with a solids content of approximately 0.5% by weight, and which is called 1: 1 gel. It can also be found in the form of a concentrated gel to which part of the water has been extracted. For example, the 2: 1 concentrated gel has solids content of about 1% by weight; the 10: 1 concentrated gel has a solids content of about 5% by weight; The 40: 1 concentrated gel has a solids content of approximately 20% by weight. Products are also found sprayed 100: 1 and 200: 1, which allow the original gel to be reconstituted by mixing a part of it and 99 parts of water or 1 part and 199 parts of water respectively.

In the composition of the invention preferably a 10: 1 concentrated aloe vera gel is used, so that the combination of 1 part of said gel with 9 parts of water leads to the original gel of the plant.

In the composition of the invention, the 10: 1 concentrated aloe vera gel content ranges between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, especially between 2% and 5% and in particular between 2.5% and 4%.

Rosa mosqueta is a plant belonging to the Rosaceae family, which includes three species: Rosa moschata, Rosa canina and Rosa rubiginosa. It is a shrub with thin, flexible and very thorny branches, which can exceed 2 meters high. At present it is extended by various areas of the planet, especially in temperate regions. The oil is extracted from the seeds that contain its fruits. Said oil is used in the cosmetic industry due to the beneficial effects it produces on the skin, for example hydration of aged skin, prevention of stretch marks, and also in the treatment of scars, burns, melanomas, dermatitis and psoriasis.

In the composition of the invention, the content of Rosehip oil ranges between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight, especially between 0.3% and 1% by weight and in particular between 0.4% and 0.6% by weight.

Sweet almond oil is obtained from the fruit of the almond tree (Prunus dulcís), from the Rosaceae family, which has its origin in the regions of Central Asia. Sweet almond oil gets it can be obtained by means of the cold pressing technique, and the product thus obtained can be further retined to reduce the intensity of the aroma, although some of its properties are also lost in said refining process. Said oil is used in cosmetics for its emollient, softening, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

In the composition of the invention, the sweet almond oil content ranges between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, especially between 3% and 8% by weight. and in particular between 4% and 7% by weight. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the fruit of

Butyrospermum parkii, a tree that grows wild in a wide area of central Africa. Its composition is very complex, and palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acids can be identified, as well as an unsaponifiable fraction that confers a great moisturizing and emollient capacity.

In the composition of the invention, the content of shea butter ranges between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight and especially between 1.5% and 3 % in weigh.

Glycyrrhizinic acid or glycyrrhizinic acid is obtained by hydrolysis of glycyrrhizic acid, which in turn is extracted from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra). Glycyrrhetic acid has soothing, anti-inflammatory and healing properties and, therefore, is used in cosmetics to protect the skin from external aggressions.

In the composition of the invention, the glycyrrhetic acid content ranges between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and

2% by weight and especially between 0.4% and 1% by weight. Vitamin E or α-tocopherol is a fat-soluble vitamin that acts as an antioxidant. It is found in many foods, mainly of plant origin, especially those with green leaves, seeds, including broccoli, spinach, soybeans, wheat germ and brewer's yeast; It can also be found in foods of animal origin such as egg yolk. Commercially, vitamin E can also be found in the form of an ester with acetic acid, as in α-tocopherol acetate. Said compound is less acidic and is the derivative of vitamin E that is commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Preferably, in the composition of the invention α-tocopherol acetate is used and its content ranges between 0.05% and 2% by weight, especially between 0.1% and 1% by weight and in particular between 0.15% and 0.5% by weight.

Surfactants and emulsifiers The compositions of the invention may additionally include surfactants to facilitate the solution, emulsion, dispersion or suspension of cosmetic components.

The surfactants can be anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric. Preferably nonionic surfactants are used. The content of surfactants is between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20%, especially between 3% and 10% and in particular between 4% and 8% .

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are, to name a few, soaps, sulphonated alloys, sulphonated olefins, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerin ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and sulfosuccinamates dialkyl, ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids. Typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are, among others, polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyalkoxylated fatty acids, polyalkoxylated fatty acid amides, polyalkoxylated fatty amines, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers, alkyl polyglycosides, fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, esters, esters, esters of polyethoxylated sorbitan and amine oxides. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are, among others, quaternary ammonium compounds and quaternized salts of trialkanolamine esters and fatty acids, for example Esterquats. Typical examples of amphoteric surfactants are, among others, alkyl betaines, alkylamido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

In the case of said surfactants, these are exclusively known compounds, whose structure and production are well known to those skilled in the art, and can be found, for example, in the book of X. Sunday, A guide to the surfactants world,

Edicions Proa, Barcelona, 1995.

In the compositions of the invention, alkyl polyglycosides are especially preferred, especially cetearyl glycoside and in particular a combination thereof with cetearyl alcohol (for example the product MONTANOV ^® 68, from the Seppic company, or the product

Emulgade ^® PL 68/50); or myristyl glycoside, preferably in combination with myristic alcohol (for example the product MONTANOV ^® 14 from the Seppic company).

Lipid compounds and emollients

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain various lipid compounds and additional emollients that contribute to optimize its organoleptic and dermatological properties.

The total amount of lipid compounds and emollients additionally present in the composition of the invention is between 1 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 25% by weight and especially between 5 and 15% by weight .

The lipid compounds include Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably with 8 to 10 carbon atoms (for example, the Eutanol ^® G product of the Cognis company), esters of linear fatty acids with

6 to 22 carbon atoms with linear alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, esters of branched carboxylic acids with 6 to 13 carbon atoms with linear alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, Myristyl stearate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate or erucilo myristate.

In addition, esters of linear fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms with branched alcohols are suitable, especially 2- ethylhexanol (for example, the product Cetiol ^® 868 from the Cognis company); esters of alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids of 18 to 38 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 linear or branched carbon atoms, especially dioctyl malate; esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols - and / or Guerbet alcohols; triglycerides based on fatty acids with 6 to 10 carbon atoms (for example the product Mirytol 318 ^® from the Cognis company); liquid mixtures of mono / di / triglycerides based on fatty acids with 6 to 18 carbon atoms; esters of fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid; esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 12 carbon atoms with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups; vegetable oils; branched primary alcohols; substituted cyclohexanes; carbonates of fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 linear and branched carbon atoms, for example dicaprilyl carbonates (for example the Cetiol ^® CC product of the Cognis company); linear or branched dialkyl ethers, symmetric or asymmetric, with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example dicaprilyl ethers (for example the Cetiol ^® OE product of the Cognis company); aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalene, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes, and mixtures thereof.

Especially preferred for the compositions of the invention are Eutanol ^® G products (Guerbet alcohol: octyldodecanol),

Cetiol ^® 868 (2-ethylhexanol stearate), Cetiol ^® CC (dicaprilyl carbonate) and Mirytol 318 ^® (caprylic and capric triglycerides) from the Cognis company, and combinations thereof.

Consistency factors and thickening agents

In the compositions of the invention, consistency factors and thickeners are used to adjust the viscosity and the rheological behavior thereof.

Consistency factors include, in the first place, fatty alcohols with a chain of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxylated fatty acids. Suitable thickening agents are, by way of example, hydrophilic silicic anhydride (for example, Aerosil ^® products of the Evonik company); polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar gum, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, in addition to polyethylene glycolmono- and diesters of molecular weight fatty acids plus high; polyacrylates (for example Carbopol ^® and Pemulen grades ^® of Goodrich company Ia, Ia Synthalens.RTM company Sigma, Keltrol ^® types of Ia company Kelgo; Sepigel grades and Simulgel ^® ^® of Ia SEPPIC; Saleare ^® types of Ia Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.

To give consistency to the compositions of the invention, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, the Simulgel ^® EG product of the Seppic company (mixture of isohexadecane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer) are especially suitable and sodium acryloyl dimethyl restaurant),

Simulgel ^® NS from the Seppic company (mixture of squalane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, and copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acrylo dimethyl restaurant) and mixtures thereof. Hydrotropes

To improve the fluidity of the compositions of the invention, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, can also be used. The polyols that come into consideration in this case preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may also contain other functional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are glycerin; alkylene glycols, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, as well as polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 dalton; technical mixtures of oligoglycerins with a degree of condensation of their own from 1.5 to 10, for example technical mixtures of diglycerins with a diglycerin content of 40 to 50% by weight; methylol compounds, especially trimethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythrite and dipentaerythrite; alkyl glucosides with a chain from 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety; saccharic alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol; sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose; amino sugars, for example glucamine; dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3- propanediol.

Preferably, glycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof are used in the compositions of the invention as a hydrotrope.

Preservative agents

Among the preservative agents suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and mixtures thereof), 3- (4-chlorophenox) -1 , 2- propanediol (chlorphenesin), pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the classes of additional substances indicated in Annex Vl of the Cosmetics Directive 76/768 / EEC.

Preferably, paraben, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol or mixtures thereof, especially phenoxyethanol, are used as preservatives, for example, the COBIOSTAT ^® 200 product of the Cobiosa company.

Preparation procedure The cosmetic compositions of the invention can be prepared following conventional procedures in the cosmetic industry for the preparation of lotions, milks, creams, and sprayable emulsions. The preparation of emulsions is described for example in the Remington manual: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 20th edition, Lippincott Williams & Wilkins, Philadelphia, 2000 [ISBN: 0-683-306472].

A process for preparing a composition of the invention can be, for example, the following. In a reactor equipped with a stirring equipment, weighed and melted at a temperature between 65 ⁰ C and 85 ⁰ C, the lipophilic components and emulsifiers. In another container are weighed and heated to a temperature between 65 ⁰ C and 85 ⁰ C, hydrophilic components such as water, glycerine, panthenol and preservatives. Then, an emulsion is prepared from the lipophilic mass and the hydrophilic components with appropriate agitation. Finally, the emulsion obtained to a temperature between 3O ⁰ C and 45 ⁰ C cooled and added under stirring, the solution Croton lechleri resin and other cosmetic components may be sensitive to the temperature.

The cosmetic composition obtained generally has a viscosity between 100 and 100,000 cps. The pH of the composition can be adjusted with citric acid, hydrochloric acid or sodium hydroxide. Low viscosity compositions (lotions, PIT emulsions, microemulsions) can also be applied by spraying. Especially preferred is a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention, which comprises Croton lechleri resin and panthenol, and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel. Also especially preferred is a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of the invention, which comprises Croton lechleri resin and panthenol, and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, Centella asiatica extract, sweet almond oil, Rosehip oil, butter Shea, α-tocopherol acetate, glycyrrhetic acid and aloe vera gel.

Utilization

The use of the combination of the invention to prepare a cosmetic composition is also part of the object of the invention. to reduce the effects of aggressions to the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the combination of the invention is used to reduce the effects of laser radiation on the skin. The use of the cosmetic composition of the invention to reduce the effects of aggressions to the skin is also object of the invention.

In the context of the present invention, "aggressions against the skin" means damage caused by environmental conditions, for example by exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight, wind, moisture, environmental pollution or cold; aging, for example, dehydration and oxidation; and the laser radiation, for example the dermatological application of laser radiation to remove hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is used to reduce the effects of laser radiation on the skin. A live test was performed on the legs of individuals who underwent a medical laser photodepilation. After said hair removal process, on one of the legs a body moisturizer with aloe vera was applied and on the other leg the cosmetic composition of the invention was applied, comprising Crotón lechleή and panthenol resin and, as additional active cosmetic ingredients, Rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel. When analyzing the results, 80% of the cases found a greater and faster decrease in erythema in the leg in which the composition of the invention was applied, compared to which the body moisturizer with aloe vera was applied. It was also found that in 90% of the cases the decrease in pruritus and stinging caused by photoepilation began earlier and was faster in the leg in which the composition of the invention was applied, compared to which the Ia was applied. body moisturizer with aloe vera, although the total disappearance of these Symptoms were similar in both legs. Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the invention constitutes an effective and safe response to the physical aggression produced by the laser on the skin, since among the effects it produces, the following can be highlighted: - it reduces inflammation and irritations,

- decreases the appearance of superinfections and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,

- accelerates the process of reepithelialization and normalization of the skin, and

- provides a soothing and lasting effect. The object of the invention is also a method for reducing the effects of aggressions on the skin, which comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of a composition of the invention to the skin. The application on the skin is a topical application, so that the composition is released locally in the area of the skin affected by the aggression. A cosmetically effective amount is that amount of composition of the invention that allows treating the entire affected area.

Antioxidant Activity Tests

The combination of the invention was subjected to an in vitro test to determine the antioxidant activity thereof. To measure the antioxidant capacity of a compound, physical-chemical methods can be used that assess the ability of a compound to sequester free radicals, also known as free radical scavenging activity. In these tests, the assessed activity is independent of any enzymatic activity, as described in the article by Fauconneau et al., Comparative study of radical scavenger and antioxidant properties of phenolic compounds from Vitis vinífera cell cultures using in vitro tests, Life ScL , 1997, 61, 2103-21 10. Within this group of methods, one of the most frequent tests is the one that uses 2,2-diphenyl-1-pyrillicrazil (DPPH), as described in the article by Brand-Williams et al., Use of a Free Radical Method to Evaluate Antioxidant Activity, Lebensm. Wiss Tecnol., 1995, 28, 25-30. The DPPH- radical is a stable radical at room temperature, which is reduced in the presence of antioxidant compounds. The use of this radical is an easy and fast method to evaluate antioxidant substances.

Using this method, the antioxidant activity of the combination of the invention was compared with the activity of each component separately. The combination tested contained a panthenol: Croton lechlerí resin ratio of 40: 1 expressed in weight: weight.

Table 1 shows the EC ₅₀ concentrations, which refer to the effective concentration of the compound necessary to capture 50% of the total amount of DPPH radicals, so that the lower the concentration, the greater the efficiency of the product :

Table 1

From all the experimental data it was verified with the Statgraphics ^® statistical program that the differences between the three groups were significant at 99%. Surprisingly, it has been observed that the combination of panthenol and Croton lechleri resin of the invention exhibits a synergistic anti-radical activity, since the EC ₅₀ concentration of the combination is lower than the concentration for each of the components separately, and considerably less than corresponding value, taking into account that the combination includes 97.6% of panthenol and 2.4% of Croton lechleri resin.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but do not limit it in any way.

Examples

Example 1 Preparation of a body emulsion in the form of a cream containing the combination of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol of the invention

In a stainless steel reactor equipped with an agitator, the components of the lipophilic phase were prepared. For this purpose, 4 kg of Montanov ^® 68 (mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside), 4 kg of Cetiol ^® CC (dicaprilyl carbonate), 3 kg of Mirytol ^® 318 (caprylic-capric triglyceride), 0 , 5 kg of Rosehip oil, 3 kg of Cetiol ^® 868 (2-ethylhexyl stearate), 2 kg of shea butter and 0.5 kg of Simulgel ^® EG (mixture of isohexadecane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide and copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyl dimethyl restaurant, and the mass was heated to 80 ± 2 ⁰ C with stirring.

The components of the hydrophilic phase were prepared in another stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 50 kg of demineralized water, 3 kg of 99.5% glycerin were introduced into it, 2 kg of panthenol, and 2.5 kg of Cobiostab® 200 (phenoxyethanol), and the mass was heated to 80 ± 2 ⁰ C with stirring. At this temperature, the hydrophilic phase was incorporated on the lipophilic phase under stirring until an emulsion was achieved. Then, a cooling process was started at 35 ± 2 ⁰ C. Once this temperature was reached, 3 kg of a Crotón lechleri resin hydroglycolic solution with a resin content of 1.68% by weight, 3 kg was added Aloe Vera gel (10: 1), and the dough was kept under stirring until a homogeneous product was obtained. Finally it was completed with water to obtain 100 kg of body emulsion in the form of cream. The pH was adjusted to a value between 5 and 6. The final product had a viscosity between 12,000 and 20,000 cps.

Example 2. Preparation of a body emulsion in the form of cream with the combination of Croton lechleri resin and panthenol of the invention and extract of

Asiatic spark

The components of the hydrophilic phase were prepared in a stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer. For this, 50 kg of demineralized water, 2 kg of 99.5% glycerin, 3 kg of hydroalcoholic extract of Centella asiatica, 2 kg of ₃ panthenol were introduced therein.

2.5 kg of Cobiostab ^® 200 (phenoxyethanol), and the mass was heated to 75 ± 2 ⁰ C with stirring. On the hydrophilic phase, 1 kg of Simulgel ^® NS (mixture of squalane, ethoxylated sorbitan monooleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and sodium acrylo dimethyl restaurant) was added, stirred at high speed until obtaining a homogeneous gel and kept at 75 ± 2 ⁰ C under stirring.

In another stainless steel reactor equipped with a stirrer, the components of the lipophilic phase were prepared. For this, 4 kg of Montanov ^® 68 (mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glycoside), 2 kg of Montanov ^® 14 (mixture of myristic alcohol and myristyl glycoside), 6 kg of sweet almond oil. 0.5 kg of Rosehip oil, 4 kg of Eutanol ^® G (octyldodecanol), 8 kg of Cetiol ^® 868 (2-ethylhexyl stearate), 2 kg of Shea butter, 0.2 kg of tocopherol acetate, and the mass was heated to 75 ± 2 ⁰ C under stirring. Then, the lipophilic phase was incorporated into the reactor containing the other components and stirred until an emulsion was achieved. Under stirring, 0.5 kg of Plantactiv ^® GLA 18 (glycyrrhetic acid) was then added, and cooling to 40 ± 2 ⁰ C was started. Once this temperature was reached, 3 kg of hydrochloric solution of resin were added.

Crotón lechlerí with a resin content of 1.68% by weight, 3 kg of aloe vera gel (10: 1), and the mass was stirred until homogenization. Finally it was completed with water to obtain 100 kg of body emulsion in the form of cream. The pH was adjusted to a value between 5 and 6. The final product had a viscosity between 20,000 and

70,000 cps

Example 3. Test of the antioxidant activity

The antioxidant activity was determined by the in vitro assay described in the article by Brand-Williams et al., Use of a Free Radical Method to Evaluate Antioxidant Activity, Lebensm. Wiss Tecnol., 1995,

28, 25-30. In this method, the extract or the substance to be evaluated reacts with 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in an ethanolic solution. DPPH is a relatively stable organic free radical that, in an atom of the nitrogen bridge, shows an unpaired valence electron. It is reduced in the presence of antioxidant compounds, and this reduction is monitored by the decrease in the absorbance of this radical.

In this test, the initial concentration of DPPH and the resulting concentration are determined once the possible antioxidant has been added, so that a decrease in radiation absorption It translates into a decrease in the concentration of DPPH due to the transfer of electrons. The results of the test are expressed as the EC ₅₀ concentration, which is the concentration of the active ingredient necessary to bleach the DPPH by 50%, that is, to capture 50% of the total amount of DPPH radicals. In this way, the smaller the value of the EC ₅₀ concentration, the lower the effective concentration necessary to capture 50% of the DPPH, and, therefore, the greater the ability to eliminate radicals from the tested component. When the EC ₅₀ concentration is high, it means that the effective concentration needed for that compound to act as an antioxidant is higher.

The samples that were tested were the following: a) Combination of the invention formed by Croton lechleri resin dissolved in a hydro-glycol solution and panthenol in a 1: 40 weight ratio b) Panthenol c) Croton lechleri resin dissolved in a hydro-glycol solution

Vitamin E ((±) -α-tocopherol, 1.1 units / mg) and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid,> 99.0%) were used as a positive control.

A solution of 0.1 mM DPPH (Sigma Chemical) in ethanol was prepared. From this solution five solutions were prepared at the concentrations 0.02 mM, 0.04 mM, 0.06 mM, 0.08 mM and 0.1 mM. The absorbance of these solutions was measured at a wavelength of 515 nm to obtain the calibration line. The DPPH solution in ethanol was taken as the blank of these samples. Then, concentrated solutions of the samples to be examined were prepared, with an approximate concentration of 10 g / l. 0.05 ml of said concentrated solutions were taken and given They added 2 ml of the 0.1 mM DPPH solution. In case the decrease in absorption is very rapid, an appropriate dissolution of the extract can be performed. The DPPH ethanolic solution was used as the target of these samples. After incubation for 30 minutes at 37 ⁰ C, the reduction of DPPH radical was monitored in a spectrophotometer from the absorbance of the decrease of said radical at 515 nm. The percentage of DPPH discoloration was calculated according to the following expression: fAm— Abm \

% Discoloration = 1 - X 1000

V Ab _DP p _H J

where:

Am = Absorbance of the sample.

Abm = Absorbance of the blank of the sample.

AÓ _DPPH - Asorbance of the target of the ethanolic solution of DPPH. To calculate EC ₅₀ or the concentration of the extract necessary to bleach the DPPH by 50%, four measurements of each of the concentrations of the extract were taken and it was ensured that the variability between them did not exceed 10%. Table 2 shows the EC ₅₀ concentrations, expressed in μg / ml, determined for the combination of the invention and for the cosmetic ingredients separately.

Table 2

It can be seen that the combination of the invention has an important free radical scavenging activity at an EC ₅₀ concentration of 4.87 μg / ml, comparable to that of Vitamin C. Said concentration is lower than the EC _5O concentration of the resin. Croton lechleri alone (6.85 μg / ml) and Ia of panthenol alone (18.25 μg / ml). The differences between these three components are statistically significant at 99%.

Taking into account that the combination of the tested invention contains a panthenol: resin ratio of 40: 1, which represents 97.6% by weight of panthenol and 2.4% by weight of Croton lechleri resin, the expected value of The EC _5O concentration for said combination was 17.97 μg / ml (18.25 x 0.996 + 6.85 x 0.024). A synergistic effect regarding the antioxidant activity is thus observed when combining Crotón lechleri resin with panthenol.

Claims

1. Combination of cosmetic active ingredients, characterized in that it comprises: a) Croton lechleh resin and b) panthenol.

2. Combination according to claim 1, characterized in that the ratio between Crotón lechlerí resin and panthenol is between 1: 500 and 1: 2, expressed in weight: weight.

3. A combination according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the panthenol is selected from D-panthenol and a racemic mixture of D-panthenol and L-panthenol.

4. Combination according to claim 3, characterized in that the panthenol is D-panthenol.

5. Cosmetic composition comprising the combination according to any of claims 1 to 4 and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it contains: between 1% and 20% by weight of the combination according to any of claims 1 to 4, and between 80% and 99% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable vehicle , adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

7. Composition according to any of claims 5 or 6, characterized in that the vehicle is water.

8. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it contains:

- between 1% and 10% by weight of the combination according to any of claims 1 to 4,

- between 40% and 94% by weight of the vehicle, adjusting the percentages of the components so that the balance is 100%.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the additional cosmetic ingredient is selected from the group consisting of surfactants and emulsifiers, lipid compounds and emollients, consistency factors and thickeners, hydrotropes, preservatives and mixtures of the same.

Composition according to any one of claims 5 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water type (O / W).

12. Composition according to any of claims 8 to 1 1, characterized in that it includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from the group consisting of: extract of

Centella asiatica, Aloe vera gel, Rosehip oil, Sweet almond oil, shea butter, glycyrrhetic acid, vitamin E and its derivatives and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that as additional active cosmetic ingredients includes rosehip oil, shea butter and aloe vera gel.

14. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that as additional active cosmetic ingredients includes Centella asiatica extract, sweet almond oil, rosehip oil, shea butter, α-tocopherol acetate, glycyrrhetic acid and aloe vera gel.

15. Use of the combination according to any of claims 1 to 4 to prepare a cosmetic composition to reduce the effects of aggressions on the skin.

16. Use according to claim 15, characterized in that the aggressions to the skin are damages produced by environmental conditions, aging and laser radiation.

17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the aggressions to the skin are produced by the laser radiation.

18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any of claims 5 to 14 to reduce the effects of the aggressions to

The skin.

19. Procedure for reducing the effects of aggressions on the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying on the skin a cosmetically effective amount of a composition according to any of claims 5 to 14.