WO2011138450A2 - Foaming cosmetic composition containing ellagic acid or one of the salts thereof and an essential oil - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition which, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, includes: 9i) one or more compounds chosen from ellagic acid, the ethers thereof, the salts of ellagic acid and ethers thereof, and the mixtures of same, and (ii) one or more essential oils, (iii) one or more foaming agents. The invention likewise relates to a cosmetic treatment method implementing such a composition and to the use of said composition for washing and/or anti-dandruff treatment of keratin fibers.

Description

 Foaming cosmetic composition based on ellagic acid or one of its derivatives and essential oil.

The present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof, and at least one essential oil; a cosmetic treatment method implementing said composition and the use of said composition for washing and / or anti-dandruff treatment of keratinous fibers and scalp, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

 The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics is becoming an important issue for satisfying a new expectation of consumers, in particular that of natural and / or eco-designed products, that is to say, whose design and development accounts for environmental impacts and integrates environmental impacts throughout their life cycle (from raw material, end of life through manufacturing, logistics, distribution and use).

 Like any other conventional cosmetic composition, eco-designed and / or natural cosmetic compositions must meet performance and usage criteria (stability, applicability, safety, etc.).

 The vast majority of the anti-dandruff cosmetic compositions available on the market contain piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulphide as anti-dandruff active ingredients. All of these ingredients are effective against dandruff, but are synthetic molecules and considered to be eco-toxic (toxic to aquatic organisms) and / or irritating at high concentrations.

In parallel, we can find products that claim to be "anti-dandruff" and that contain as anti-dandruff agents essential oils, which are natural ingredients, without achieving the level of anti-dandruff performance of synthetic anti-dandruff active, especially in the face of dandruff caused by the excessive proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp.

 Thus, there is a need for a system of anti-dandruff ingredients meeting naturalness and / or eco-toxicity criteria, just as effective as synthetic anti-dandruff active ingredients, and to a large extent anti-dandruff cosmetic composition meeting these requirements.

 The Applicant has now surprisingly found that by using the combination of at least one compound selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and the salts of its ethers in a composition comprising at least an essential oil and at least one foaming agent, it was possible to obtain a cosmetic composition that meets the abovementioned criteria, and in particular to obtain a nontoxic cosmetic composition that is respectful of the environment and that is particularly effective as an anti-dandruff composition, having good dandruff properties. 'use. This combination of natural assets makes it possible, surprisingly, to fight as effectively against dandruff, in particular those caused by the proliferation of yeasts of the genus Malassezia on the scalp, compared with known synthetic anti-dandruff active agents, such as those mentioned above. for example.

 In particular, the composition according to the invention has a particularly remarkable anti-dandruff efficacy, especially during repeated applications.

 In addition, it has been found that this cosmetic composition is particularly suitable for washing keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair. In fact, it spreads easily on the hair and the scalp and generates a plentiful and soft foam which is easily removed with water and leads to clean, shiny, smooth and soft hair.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention is stable over time and does not lead to the formation of aggregates. In particular, she has good storage stability both at room temperature (25 ° C) and at higher temperature (37 or 45 ° C for example).

 The present invention therefore has obj and a cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

 (i) one or more compounds selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and its ethers, and mixtures thereof, and

 (ii) one or more essential oils,

 (iii) one or more foaming agents.

 Another subject of the invention relates to a process for the cosmetic anti-dandruff treatment of keratin fibers, in particular for washing keratinous fibers and / or eliminating or reducing scalp dandruff, in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, which implements said composition.

 The invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing keratinous fibers and / or against dandruff, in particular caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, on the scalp.

 Other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and the following examples.

ELLAGIC ACID AND DERIVATIVES

 The composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds (i) chosen from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and the salts of its ethers.

 Ellagic acid, also known as: 2,3,7,8-tetrahydroxy (1) -benzopyrano (5,4,3-cde) (1) benzopyran-5,10-dione, is a well known and present molecule. in the vegetable kingdom. Reference may be made to the publication of the Merck Index 20th Edition (1 996), No. 3588.

Ellagic acid has the following chemical formula:

which has four cycles.

 Ellagic acid is commercially available, in particular from Sigma, France.

 Document FR-A-1 478 523 discloses a process for purifying ellagic acid and the purified ellagic acids obtained by such a process.

 The at least one ellagic acid ethers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from mono-, di-, tri- or polyethers obtained by etherification of one or more hydroxyl groups (one of the four OH groups of the ellagic acid) of ellagic acid in one or more OR groups, R being chosen from C 2 -C 20 alkyl groups, polyoxyalkylene and in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups, and groups derived from one or more several mono- or polysaccharides such as, for example, the group of following formula:

In the case of the di-, tri- or polyethers of ellagic acid, the groups R as defined above may be identical or different.

 Such ethers are described in US Pat. No. 5,073,545. Preferably, these ellagic acid ethers are chosen from 3, 4-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3 ', 4-tri-O-methyl ellagic acid and 3,3' acid. -di-O-methyl ellagic.

 The salts or salts of ellagic acid and / or its ethers which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium, ammonium salt and amine salts such as triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine salts. Preferably, the salts or salts of ellagic acid and / or its ethers that can be used according to the invention are chosen from the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular the sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts. .

 Among all the compounds (i) mentioned, it is preferred to use ellagic acid or one of its salts.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight of compound (s) (i). ), relative to the total weight of the composition.

ESSENTIAL OILS

 The composition according to the invention comprises at least one essential oil (ii).

 Essential oils are distinguished from vegetable oils by the fact that they can not be broken down by saponification into glycerol and fatty acid soap. Moreover, they are volatile.

 According to the definition given in the international standard IS O

9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation or by dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition.

 Modes of obtaining essential oils

 The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.

 Training with water vapor

 Steam training is the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into contact with boiling water or water vapor in a still. Water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in the liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steaming after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydro lat "or" distilled floral water ".

 Dry distillation

 The essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best known example of this method of production.

 Cold expression

This method of production applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp. ) by mechanical methods at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists in exerting under a stream of water an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After solid waste disposal, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial facilities allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.

 Physico-chemical characters

 Essential oils are volatile and liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble especially in the usual organic solvents, such as those mentioned later among the cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. In addition, they can be dragged with water vapor and very little soluble in water.

 They are composed of molecules with a carbon skeleton, the number of carbon atoms being generally between 5 and 22.

 The main chemical classes of compounds present in essential oils are:

 terpene and sesquiterpenic carbides, for example: turpentine essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene,

essential oil of juniper: alpha - pinene, camphene, cadinene lemon essential oil: limonene

alcohols, for example:

the essential oil of coriander: linalo l

essential oil of rosewood: linalo l

the essential oil of rose: geranio l

 mixtures of esters and alcohols, for example:

lavender essential oil: linalo l and linalyl acetate

mint essential oil: mentho l and menthyl acetate

 aldehydes, for example:

essential oil of cinnamon: cinnamic aldehyde

lemongrass essential oil: citral and citronellal the essential oil of eucalyptus citrodora: citronellal

 ketones, for example:

caraway essential oil: carvone

sage essential oil: thuyone

the essential oil of cedar: thuyone

 phenols, for example:

thyme essential oil: thymol

savory essential oil: carvacrol

the essential oil of oregano: thymol and carvacrol

clove essential oil: eugenol

 the ethers, for example:

the essential oil of anise green, badian: anethol

essential oil of fennel: anethol

eucalyptus essential oil globulus: eucalyptol

cajeput essential oil: eucalyptol

the essential oil of niaouli: eucalyptol

 peroxides, for example:

the essential oil of chenopodium: ascharidol

garlic essential oil: allicin.

 Essentially, the essential oils consist of a complex mixture of compounds belonging to these different chemical families.

 Vegetable raw materials

 The vegetable raw materials used to produce the essential oils are generally plants or parts of plants that are in various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh).

 Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:

 Abietaceous or Pinaceae: conifers

 Amaryllidaceae

 Anacardiaceae

Anonaceae: ylang Apiaceae (eg umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley

 Araceae

 Aristo lochiaceae

 Asteraceae: achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse

 bétulacées

 Brassicaceae

 Burseraceae: incense

 Pink Family

 Canellacées

 Césalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu)

 Chénopodacées

 Cistaceae: rockrose

 sedges

 Dipterocarpaceae

 Ericaceae: Wintergreen

 Spurge

 Fabaceae

 Geraniaceae: geranium

 Guttiferae

 Hamamelidaceae

 Hernandiacées

 Hypericaceae: St. John's wort

 Iridacées

 Juglandacées

 Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, monarde, savory, basil, marjaine, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, melissa, rosemary

 Lauraceae: ravensara, bay leaves, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea

Liliaceae: garlic

 Magno liaceae: magnolia

 Malvaceae

 Meliaceae

Monimiacées Moraceae: hemp, hops

 Myricaceae

 Mysristicaceae: nutmeg

 Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, caj eput, backousia, clove, myrtle

 Oleaceae

 Piperaceae: pepper

 Pittosporacées

 Poaceae: lemongrass, lemo ngrass, vetiver

 Polygonaceae

 Buttercup

 Rosaceae: roses

 Rubiaceae

 Rutaceae: all citrus

 Salicaceae

 Santalaceae: sandalwood

 Saxifragaceae

 Schisandracées

 Styracaceae: benzoin

 Thymelaceae: agarwood

 Tilliacées

 Valerianaceae: valerian, nard

 Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena

 Vio laced

 Zingiberaceae: galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger

Zygophyllaceae

 and their mixtures.

 Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, use will be made more preferably of an essential oil selected from the essential oils of:

 Tropical basil

 Caj eput

 Cinnamon

Lemon catnip Citronelle

 Clove

 Coriander

 Eucalyptus radiata

 Lemon Eucalyptus

 Eucalyptus globulus

 Geranium

 Bourbon geranium

 Laser siler

 Laurel noble

 Lemongrass

 Green mandarin

 Marjo wild wool

 Lemon balm

 niaouli

 Oregano from Spain

 Green oregano

 Rosemary to cineo

 Pink

 Savory mountains

 Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

 Thyme linalo l

 Thyme thymo l "vulgaris"

 Thyme thymo l "zygis"

 Verbena

 vetiver,

 and their mixtures.

 Even more preferably, the oil or the essential oils are chosen from the essential oils of lemon catnip, clove, lemon balm and green oregano, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.001 to 10%, in particular from 0.01 to 5%, and more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight of essential oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The composition according to the invention therefore does not include anti-dandruff of the family of imidazoles such as econazo le.

HEALTHY MOISTANT

 The composition according to the invention comprises at least one foaming agent (iii).

 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "foaming agent" means a compound having a HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) greater than or equal to 8 and preferably greater than or equal to 10. The HLB characterizes the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This concept of HLB is well known to those skilled in the art. It is described in particular in "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection "(published by ICI Americas, 1984).

 The foaming agent is characterized by its foaming power. The foaming power of the foaming agent can be measured by standard measurement methods well known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably the foaming agent is such that it is introduced at 1.5% by weight in water at pH = 7, it generates a volume of foam greater than 100 ml, even more preferably greater than 200 ml, and better still higher to 500 ml in the following test using the SITA FOAM TESTER R2000. 270 ml of the foaming agent solution are introduced into a double-wall thermostated jar (inner diameter 20 cm, temperature 33 ° C). The foam is generated by a rotor consisting of a conventional rod and a circular disc on which are hung 4 perforated triangular plates allowing mechanical introduction of the air bubbles into the solution. The rotational speed of the rotor is set at 1100 rpm. The generation of foam is evaluated after 3 minutes. Measurements of vo lume foam produced are performed by a cylindrical movable head provided with fifteen needles, capacitive effect sensors. The composition according to the invention is also characterized by its foaming power.

 The foaming power of the composition is measured according to the modified Ross Miles method (NF T 73-404).

 The changes to the method are as follows:

 The measurement is made at a temperature of 22 ° C with osmosis water. The concentration of the solution is 2 g / l. The height of the fall is 1 m. The amount of composition that drops is 200 ml. These 200 ml of composition falls into a test tube having a diameter of 50 mm and containing 50 ml of the test composition. The measurement is made 5 minutes after stopping the flow of the composition.

 Preferably, the foaming power of the composition is greater than 100 ml, more preferably greater than 200 ml, and more preferably greater than 500 ml.

 The foaming agent (s) used according to the invention are preferably surfactants and may be used interchangeably, alone or in mixtures.

 Preferably, the foaming agent (s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and cationic surfactants.

 Foaming agents that are suitable for carrying out the present invention include the following: Anionic surfactant (s):

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the groups C0 ₂ H, C0 ₂ ^~, SO ₃ H, SO ₃ ^", OSO ₃ H, OS ^O3", OPO3H2, OPO3H ^{"OPO3 2".}

By way of examples of anionic surfactants which can be used alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-o-olefinsulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside - polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of alkyl D - galactoside - uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids alkyl alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

 Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

Monoesters of salts of C ₆ -24 of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from polyglycoside citrates C ₆ -24, polyglycosides tartrates alkyl C ₆ -24 and polyglycoside-alkyl sulfosuccinates

C ₆ -24 -

When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

 By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made especially of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, the salts of 2-amino-2 methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanedio and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The anionic surfactant (s) used according to the invention may also be chosen from acidic soaps

 The C10-C22 fatty acid soaps consist of the salts of one or more C10-C22 fatty acids.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned may be used as foaming agents, it is preferred to use alkyl (C ₆ -24) sulphates, alkyl (C ₆ -24) ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol, and alkaline earth metals, acyl (C ₆ -24) sarcosinates, acyl (C ₆ -24) glutamates, acyl (C ₆ -24) isethionates, N-acyl (C ₆ -24) taurates, polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -24) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-24) amidoéther- carboxylic acids and their salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

 In particular, it is preferable to use alkyl (C12-2) sulphates, alkyl (C12-2) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and acyl (C12-2) isethionates, especially in the form of salts. alkali metals, ammonium, aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide or lauroyl methyl isethionate.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight of surfactant (s). anionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant (s):

Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C₁2) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 10.

 Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan, optionally oxyethylenated, esters of fatty and sucrose acids, esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated. alkylglucoside esters, N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

 Unless otherwise stated, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 atoms. carbon, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

 Unless otherwise stated, the alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

 Among all the nonionic surfactants mentioned that can be used as foaming agents, it is preferred to use the optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s) ( s) nonionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s):

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -2o) alkyl betaines, C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkylsulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C 20) alkylamido (C ₂ -C 8) alkylbetaines or (C ₈ -C 20) alkylamines. _8-2 o) amido (C ₂ -8) sulphobetaines. Preferably, the use is (C _8-2 o) amido (C ₂ -8) betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

 Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following respective structures (Al) and (A2):

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b ) (Rc) (CH ₂ COCr) (Al) in which:

R _a represents a C 1 0 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a R _a -COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group; and R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (A2)

in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ^* ,

B 'represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X ^* represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y ^* represents -COOH, -COOZ ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

 Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

R _a 'represents a C 1 -C ₃ alkyl or alkenyl group of an R _a ' COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in oil hydro-lysed lin, an alkyl group, especially C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

 These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

 By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

 Among all the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, the compounds corresponding to formula (A1) are preferably used. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) is (are) selected from disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphosphiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s) ( s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactant (s):

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant or surfactants that can be used as foaming agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

 The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

 As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (A3):

 (A3)

in which the groups Rs to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Ru denotes a group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic groups are for example selected from alkyl Ci_3o alkoxy Ci_3o, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkylamide Ci_3o, alkyl (Ci2-C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6), alkyl (C ₁₂ - C22 ) acetate, and C1-3 hydroxyalkyl; X ^" is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3), tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salt, or stearamidopropyldimethyl salt; - (Myristyl acetate) -ammonium sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds.

 the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (A4) below:

(A4) wherein R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 14 is C 1 -C 4 alkyl, R 1 is hydrogen, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably contain 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups having from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 14 denotes a methyl group, R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;

 quaternary di or triammonium salts of the formula

(AT 5) :

(A5) wherein R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group having from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the following group:

R'i6, R'17, R'18, Ris, R19, R20 and R ₂ i, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^" and Y ^"are anions chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and alkyl (Ci-C6) sulfates particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate. Such compounds are for example the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium-89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium-75), the Condicate CT proposed by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS (Quaternium-75). );

quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (A6) below:

 in which :

R22 is selected from alkyl groups, C i -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, C i -C ₆ alkyl;

 R23 is selected from:

 O

- the group '26 C '

 the R27 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups,

 - the hydrogen atom,

 R25 is selected from:

 O

R ^■ .

- group 28 ^o

the R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,

 - the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups C 7 -C _{2 1} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

 r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to

6;

 y is an integer from 1 to 10;

 x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to

10;

X ^" is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is

R ₂ 9 - The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

 Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

 Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

 When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

 When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably

1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R _24, R 26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups C n -C _{2 1} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, more particularly from alkyl and alkenyl groups C n - C _{2 1} , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

 Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is 1.

 Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^" is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate, but methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-function ammonium.

The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

 In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (A6) in which:

 R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

 x and y are equal to 1;

 z is 0 or 1;

r, s and t are 2; is chosen from

- Group ²⁶

 methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups,

- the hydrogen atom;

 R25 is selected from:

 O

- group 28 ^o

 - the hydrogen atom;

R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are selected from hydrocarbon groups C _{1 3} -C _{1 7,} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from alkyl groups and alkenyl C 13 - C 17 , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

 Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (A6) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10 -C 30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C 10 -C 18 fatty acids. C30 of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with the aid of an alkylating agent such as alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco or glycerol chlorohydrin.

 Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 1 8 by the company REWO-WITCO.

 The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

 As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate and 15 to 30% triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil.

 It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-41371 80.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of surfactant (s). (s) cationic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of foaming agents of at least 4% by weight. More preferably, it comprises a total content of foaming agents ranging from 4 to 50% by weight, in particular from 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a first preferred embodiment, the agent or foaming agents are chosen from anionic surfactants, preferably those mentioned above. In another embodiment, the agent or the foaming agents are chosen from nonionic surfactants, preferably optionally (C ₈ -2o) polyglycosides optionally oxyalkylenated.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the foaming agent is a mixture of anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such that the anionic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from (C) alkyls. ₆ - C24) sulphates and alkyl (C ₆ - C24) ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, acyl (C ₈ -2 o) sarcosinates, acyl (Cs - 2o) glutamates, acyls ( C ₈ -2o) isethionates, N-acyl (Cs-2o) taurates, alkyl acids (Cs-2o) ether-carboxylic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (Cs-2o) alkylamido ether-carboxylic acids and their salts; such that the nonionic surfactant (s), when present, are preferably selected from optionally oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -2o) alkyl polyglycosides; and as the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants when they are present are preferably chosen from the (C ₈ -2o) betaines, (alkyl C ₈ -2o) amido (C 2-8 alkyl ) betaines and cocoamphodiacetates, and their salts.

In an even more preferred embodiment, the foaming agent is a mixture of anionic surfactants, and amphoteric or zwitterionic agents, such that the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl (C 1-4) sulphates. and alkyl (C _{1 2 -} 1 4) ether sulphates and acyl (C ₈ -2) isethionates, especially in the form of sodium salts comprising from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; and such that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoamphodiacetates, in particular in the form of sodium salts, and (C ₈ -2 20) alkylamido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines.

In each of the embodiments described above, the concentrations of surfactant (s) anionic (s), surfactant (s) surfactant (s) optionally present (s), and in amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s) optionally present (s), may be as described above. Advantageously, the total content of surfactant (s) anionic (s) and amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), and agent (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) when ( s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention, ranges from 4 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 20% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

AGENT (S EPAIS SIS SANT (S

 The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more thickening agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" is understood to mean an agent which introduces at 1% by weight into an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% by weight of ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to attain a viscosity of at least 100 cPs, preferably at least 500 cPs, at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of ^{1 to 1.} This viscosity can be measured using a cone / planar viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer). or the like).

 The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from nonionic cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), cellulosic anionic thickeners such as carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gum microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), PEG (polyethylene glycols) of fatty acid ester and PEG derivatives of fatty acid ester such as those known as INCI PEG - 150 distearate and PEG Propylene glycool leate, crosslinked or uncrosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, associative polymers as described below, and mixtures thereof.

The crosslinked or noncrosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid are, in particular, homopolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid such as NOVEON Carbopol 980 and methacrylic acid copolymers. and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl acrylate such as in particular Carbopol Aqua SF 1 Polymer sold by the company Lubrizo l (INCI: acrylate copolymer). The associative polymer (s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

 Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

 The associative polymer or polymers that may be used according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.

 Among all the thickening agents mentioned, the thickener (s) are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably crosslinked, and / or fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid.

 Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight of thickening agent (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

AGENT (S OF CONDITIONING

 The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conditioning agents.

 By "conditioning agent" is meant according to the present invention any compound for improving the cosmetic properties of hair, particularly softness, disentangling, touch, static electricity.

Preferably, the conditioning agent is chosen from the group comprising cationic polymers, surfactants cationic agents different from the foaming agents used according to the invention, silicones such as organosiloxanes, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbons, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and of C1-C30 alcohol and in particular the C8-C30 fatty acid esters of C8-C30 fatty alcohol, the C8-C30 fatty acid or diacid esters and the C8-C30 fatty alcohol esters; ceramides or ceramide analogues, non-volatile vegetable oils and mixtures of these compounds.

 The term "cationic polymer" means a positively charged polymer when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This polymer may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

 The cationic polymer or polymers which can be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.

 When the conditioning agent is a cationic polymer, it is preferably chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a polymer. lateral substituent directly connected to it.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products. They are for example described in French Patent Nos ^. 2505348 and 2542997.

 Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

in which :

R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;

R ₅ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group;

A, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ₆ , R ₇ , R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X ^" means an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

 The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C 1 -C). 4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

 Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

 the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

 the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name Reten by Hercules,

 vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, whether or not quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER"; 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077. 143 and 2.393.573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by the company ISP.

 and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, and

crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C 1 -C ₄ ) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example dispersed in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

 (2) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;

(3) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by a epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-halo acyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bis-halohydrin, bis-azetidinium, bis-haloacylamine, bis-haloalkyl, epihalohydrin, difunctional reactive compound a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amino functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508;

 (4) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denote the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,583,363.

 Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(5) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms . The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is from 0.8: 1 to 1.4: 1; the resultant polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin per relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1. Such polymers are especially described in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

 Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

(6) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): 2)

(V) (VI) wherein: k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being 1; Ri ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Ri o and Ru, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C ₁ -C 4), or R 1 and R 3 may together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190,406. Rio and Ru, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

 Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco (and its counterparts of low molecular weight average) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide especially marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550".

 (7) the quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units corresponding to formula (VII):

 formula (VII) in which:

R13, Ri4, Ris and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups (C1-C4), or R13, R14, R15 and Ri ₆ together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R ₆ represent an alkyl group Ci-C _6, linear or branched, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group, or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene having 1 to 10 carbon atoms and D is an ammonium group quaternary;

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide groups, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and

X ^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

A 1, R 13 and R 15 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B i may also designate a group

- (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC- (CH ₂ ) _p - in which:

 n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20,

D designates:

 a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -

- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number of 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

 b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the bivalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ;

 d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X ^" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

 These polymers have a mean molecular weight in number generally between 1,000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388.6 and 2,454. 547, 3.206.462, 2.261 .002, 2.271.378, 3.874.870, 4.001.432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005. 193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

 Polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to formula (VIII) can be used more particularly:

in which: Ri s, R19, R20 and R ₂ i, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X ^" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (VIII) which is particularly preferred is that for which R 1 s, R ₁₉ , R 20 and R ₂₁ , represent a methyl group and r = 3, s = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA ).

 (8) quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX):

 (IX)

 formula in which:

R22, R23, R24 and R _25, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH _{2) p} OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ and R ₂₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

 t and u, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

v is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, X ^" denotes an anion such as a halo génure,

 A is a group of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

 Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.

 For example, the products "Mirapol® A 1 5", "Mirapol® AD 1", "Mirapol® AZ 1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Mirano l.

 (9) the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B .A. S .F.

 (10) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic galactomannan gums.

 Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer and galactomannan gums. cationic.

 The cellulose ether derivatives having the quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a hydrosoluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,135,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- grafted celluloses in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.

 Other cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates. , quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

 The proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins are in particular chemically modified polypeptides carrying at the end of the chain, or grafted onto it, quaternary ammonium groups. Their molecular weight may vary for example from 1500 to 10000, and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of:

 triethylammonium-containing collagen hydrolysates such as the products sold under the name "Quat-Pro E" by the company MAYBROOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate";

 the hydro lysates of collagen containing trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium groups, sold under the name "Quat-Pro S" by the company MAYBROOOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen";

the hydro lysates of animal proteins bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "Crotein BTA" by the company CRODA and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein"; protein hydrolysates carrying, on the polypeptide chain, quaternary ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made inter alia of: the "Croquat L" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain a C _{1 2} alkyl group;

"Croquat M", the quaternary ammonium groups of which contain C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl groups;

"Croquat S", the quaternary ammonium groups of which contain a C _{1 8} alkyl group;

 "Crotein Q" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

 These different products are sold by Croda.

 Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to formula (X):

wherein X ^" is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from protein hydrolyzates of co 11 agene, R2 denotes a lipophilic group having up to 30 carbon atoms, R 30 represents an alkylene group For example, the products sold by Inolex under the name "Lexein QX 3000", referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "Cocotrimonium Co llagen Hydro lysate".

Mention may also be made of quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, corn or soy protein: as quaternized wheat proteins, mention may be made of those marketed by the company Croda under the names "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM", referred to in US Pat. CTFA dictionary of "Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein", "Hydrotriticum QL" named in the CTFA dictionary "Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein", or "Hydrotriticum QS", called in the CTFA dictionary "Steardimonium hydro lysed wheat protein".

 Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the cationic cyclopolymers as defined above, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names "Merquat". 100 "," MERQUAT 550 "and" MERQUAT S "by NALCO, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

 Among the silicones that can be used as conditioning agents in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made without limitation of:

 I. Silicone voiles:

 These have a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C. Among this type of silicone, mention is made of:

 (a) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and preferably from 4 to 5.

 It is, for example, octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane sold under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207®" by the company UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V2®" by the company RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158®" by the company UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V5®" by the company RHONE POULENC, and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 31 09®" sold by UNION CARBIDE, which is a cyclocopolymer dimethylsiloxane / methyloctylsiloxane;

(b) vo latiles linear silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 ^"6 m ² / s at 25 ° C.

This is, for example, hexamethyldisiloxane sold under the name "SILBIONE 70041 V0,65®" by the company RHONE POULENC. This type of product is described in the article by TODD & BYERS "Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan 76, pages 27 32.

 II. Silicones not voiles

 They consist mainly of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and organomodified polysiloxanes, as well as mixtures thereof. They can be in the form of oils, gums and resins.

Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made mainly of linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 5. 10 ⁶ m ² / s and preferably less than 2.6 m ² / s is:

 with trimethylsilyl end groups, for example, and without limitation, the "SILBIONE®" oils of the 70047 series sold by the company RHONE POULENC, the Wacker Belsil DM 60000 oil from Wacker or certain "VISCASIL®" from the GENERAL ELECTRIC company,

 with trihydroxysilyl end groups, such as the oils of the "48 V®" series of the company RHONE POULENC.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABILWAX 9800®" and "ABILWAX 9801®", which are polyalkyl (C _1-20 ) siloxanes.

Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of polydimethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes having a viscosity of from 10 ⁵ to 5 10 ² m ² / s, such as, for example:

 - RHODORSIL® 763 oil from RHONE POULENC,

 - "SILBIONE®" oils of the 70641 series from RHONE POULENC, such as "SILBIONE 70641 V30®" and "SILBIONE 70641 V200®" oils,

 the product "DC 556®" Cosmetic Grad Fluid from Dow Corning,

PK series silicones from BAYER, such as "PK20®", the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the "PN 1000®" and "PH 1000®",

 - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as "SF 1250®", "SF 1265®", "SF 1 154®", "SF 1023®".

 The silicone gums according to the present invention are polydiorganosiloxanes having a high average molecular mass of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent chosen from voilesilicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils ( PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or mixtures thereof.

 For example, compounds having the following structures are mentioned:

 [poly (dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)] gums, - [(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)] gums,

 gums po [[dihydrogeno dimethylsiloxane] / (divinylsiloxane)],

 [poly (dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)] gums,

poly ([dimethylsiloxane] / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)] gums.

 We can mention the company Mirasil DM300 000 gum

Rhodia.

 Mention may also be made, for example, without limitation, of the following mixtures:

 l) mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane (DIMETHICONOL according to the CTFA nomenclature), and a cyclic dimethylsiloxane po- ly (CYCLOMETHICONE according to the CTFA nomenclature), such as the products "Q2 1401 ®" or DOW CORNING 1501 FLUID sold by the company Dow Corning;

2) mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product "SF 1214 SILICONE FLUID®" from GENERAL ELECTRIC, which is an "SE 30®" gum of 500,000 MW (-M _n ) _n / a lubilized in "SF 1202 SILICONE FLUID®"(decamethylcyclopentasiloxane); 3) blends of two PDMSs of different viscosities, in particular a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the "SF 1236®" and "CF 1241®" products from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product "SF 1236®" is the mixture of a "SE 30®" gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m ² / s and a "SF 96®" oil with a viscosity of 5. 10 ⁶ m ² / s (15% "SE 30®" gum and 85% "SF 96®" oil).

The product "CF 1241®" is the mixture of a gum "SE 30®" (33%) and a PDMS (67%) of viscosity 10 ^"3 m ² / s.

 The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 S 1 O 2/2, RS 1 O 3/2 and S 1 O 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group or a phenyl group.

 Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name "DOW CORNING 593®" or those sold under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230" and "SILICONE FLUID SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are dimethyl / trimethylpo lysiloxanes.

 The organomodified silicones, in accordance with the present invention, are silicones as defined above, comprising in their general structure, one or more organo-functional groups directly attached to the siloxane chain or attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

 Mention is made, for example, of silicones comprising:

 a) perfluorinated groups, such as trifluoroalkyls, for example those sold by the company General Electric under the names "FF 150 FLUOROSILICONE FLUID®" or by SHIN ETSU under the names "X-22-8 19®"; , "X-22-82®", "X-22-821®" and "X-22-822®";

b) hydroxyacylamino groups such as, for example, those described in patent application EP 0 342 834 and in particularly the silicone sold by Dow Corning under the name "Q2-8413®";

 c) thio groups such as in silicones "X 2- 8360®" of Dow Corning Company or "GP 72A®" and "GP 71®" of GENESEE;

d) non-quaternized amine groups, as in "GP 4 Silicone Fluid®" from Genesee, the "GP 7100®" from Genesee, the "Q2 8220®" from Dow Corning, 1 ^* "AFL 40®" from UNION CARBIDE or the silicone called "Amodimethicone" in the CTFA dictionary; e) carboxylate groups, such as the products described in EP 1 86 507 of CHISSO CORPORATION;

 f) hydroxyl groups, such as hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes, described in patent application FR 85 16334.

 The product marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 190 may be particularly cited.

 g) alkoxylated groups such as in the silicone copolymer "F 755 ®" from SWS SILICONES and the products "ABILWAX 2428®", "ABILWAX 2434®", "ABILWAX 2440®" from the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

 h) acyloxyalkyl groups, such as, for example, the polyorganopolysiloxanes described in the patent application FR 88 17433;

 i) quaternary ammonium groups, as in the products "X2 8 1 08®" and "X2 8 1 09®", the product "ABIL K 3270®" from the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

 j) amphoteric or betaine groups, such as in the product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name "ABIL B 9950®";

 k) bisulfite groups, such as in the products sold by GOLD SCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S 201®" and "ABIL S 255®".

1) polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C ₆ -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C _{1 2} ) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200.

 According to the invention, it is also possible to use silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain. . These polymers are for example described in the patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-4 12 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US Patents 4,693, 935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic.

 Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture consisting of:

 a) from 50 to 90% by weight of tertiary butyl acrylate;

 b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;

 c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula (XI):

H ₂ C =

 with v being a number from 5 to 700; the percentages by weight being calculated with respect to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the type alkyl poly (meth) acrylate; polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by by means of a thiopropylene type connecting link, po lymeric units of the isobutyl po (meth) acrylate type.

 According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

 The most preferred polyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are:

non-silicone silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m ² / s at 25 ° C., such as the oils of the DC200 series of Dow; CORNING in particular that of viscosity 60,000 cSt, SILBIONE series 70047 and 47 and more particularly 70 047 V 500 000 oil marketed by Rhodia Chimie, the polyalkylsiloxanes dimethylsilano end groups such as dimethicono l or po lyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil marketed by Rhodia Chimie;

 polysiloxanes with amino groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamo dimethicone.

 The viscosities of the silicones may in particular be determined by the ASTM D445 -97 (viscometry) standard.

 When the conditioning agent of the composition according to the invention is a hydrocarbon, it is a hydrocarbon, linear or branched C 8 -C 30.

 Among the hydrocarbons which are liquid at ambient temperature and which correspond to this definition, mention may notably be made of isododecane, isohexadecane and its isomers (such as 2,2,4,4,6,6-heptamethylnonane) and iso-eicosane. isotetracosane, the isomers of said compounds, n-nonadecane, n-dodecane, n-undecane, n-tridecane, n-pentadecane, and mixtures of these hydrocarbons.

Isododecane or one of its isomers is preferably used according to the invention. When the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, it is of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C30 type. Among these, there may be mentioned for example butyl-2-octanol, lauric alcohol, 2-octyl dodecanol, oleic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, it may be either an ester of a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid and of C 1 -C 30 alcohol, and in particular a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid ester and fatty alcohol C ₈ - C 30 or an ester of a dibasic acid or C1-C7 and a fatty alcohol C ₈ -C _30.

 Among these esters, mention may be made, for example, of ethyl, isopropyl, ethyl-2-hexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, of isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl-2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, dioctyl malate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides which can be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention, are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules which can meet the following general formula (XII):

^Rl (XII)

 in which :

R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a fatty acid; saturated or unsaturated C16-C30; - R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a group (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

R ₃ denotes a C 5 -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon-based group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl groups;

it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ₃ may also designate a C 5 -C ₂₆ alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C ₆ -C ₃ α-hydroxyacid.

 Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 138 1 - 1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The most preferred ceramides or ceramides according to the invention are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom; and R ₃ denotes a linear group saturated with C _{1 5} .

 Such compounds are for example:

 N-lino leoyldihydrosphingosine,

 N-o leoyldihydrosphingosine,

 N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,

 N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,

 N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine,

 or mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferably, ceramides are used for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ₃ denotes a group -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) i ₂ -CH ₃ .

By way of example, mention may be made of the product consisting of a mixture of these compounds sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES. Among all these conditioning agents, one or more conditioning agents chosen from silicones such as organosiloxanes and cationic polymers are preferably used.

 The cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably contains from 0.01 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight of conditioning agent (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

AGENT (SURSIOACTIVE S (ADDITIONAL S (S

 The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional surfactant other than the foaming agents defined above. These additional surfactants may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, or cationic.

 The additional surfactant (s) may be chosen for example from emulsifying surfactants and foam boosters or foam synergists. The emulsifying surfactants and foam boosters that can be used in the composition of the invention are cited in particular in the CTFA (2004 Edition) under the heading "surfactants - emulsifying agents" and "surfactants - fo am booster".

 Among the emulsifying surfactants, there may be mentioned in particular the compounds known under the INCI names sucrose laurate, glyceryl caprylate and polyglyceryl-4 caprate.

 Among the foam boosters, mention may be made of fatty acid alkanoamides, preferably having a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular coconut acid monoethanolamide or monoisopropanoamide of coconut acid. copra.

 The composition according to the invention is generally used for topical application.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application. The composition according to the invention may be rinsed or not rinsed. Preferably, the composition is rinsed after application. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be a cream, a gel or a foam.

 The composition according to the invention can be used as a shampoo, or a shower gel, and even better as a shampoo.

 The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a pressurized composition such as an aerosol or in a pump bottle.

 The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium. The medium consists of water and optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.

 The organic solvent (s) may be selected from C 1 -C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanedio, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanedio) and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and their mixtures.

 When the medium comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, it may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

 The cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7. This pH may be adjusted by means of acidifying agents and basifying agents, conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

The cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants which are usual in the cosmetic field, such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, vegetable oils, animal oils and mineral oils. or synthetic materials other than essential oils, waxes, sun filters, inorganic or organic pigments, colored or uncoloured, coloring agents, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, agents soils, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.

 The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

 Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compounds to add to the composition according to the invention, such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition or additions envisaged.

 Another subject of the invention consists in a process for the cosmetic treatment of the scalp and keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the application of a foaming composition according to the invention to the scalp and said keratinous fibers. After a possible pause time preferably ranging from 1 to 15 minutes, the composition is then preferably rinsed with water. Preferably, said method is intended for washing said keratinous fibers and / or anti-dandruff treatment for eliminating and / or reducing dandruff, and in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia.

 The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for washing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

 It also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for antidandruff treatment for eliminating and / or reducing dandruff, and in particular those caused by yeasts of the genus Malassezia.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1

 The following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

This composition has a good anti-dandruff effect. EXAMPLE 2

 The following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

This composition has a good anti-dandruff effect. EXAMPLE 3

 The following foaming composition was prepared. The amounts are indicated in percent by weight of active ingredient (M.A.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

% by weight of

Composition

 MY.

 Lauryl ether sodium sulphate at 2.2 mo

 of 26% by weight of ethylene oxide

 12.9

 aqueous solution (Texapon AOS 225 UP

 sold by Cognis)

 Glycerol l 2

 Monoisopropano lamide of coprah acids

 2

 (Empilan CIS sold by Huntsman)

 Disodium cocamphodiacetate (Miranol C2M

 2.4

 conc. NP sold by Rhodia)

 Ellagic acid 1

 Sodium chloride 0, 8

 Sodium benzoate 0.5

 Carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol 980

 0.4

 sold by the company Lubrizo l)

 Essential oil of cloves bio 0, 15

 Organic lemon catnip essential oil 0,05

 Essential oil of green oregano 0,04875

 Essential oil of organic lemon balm 0,00125

Citric acid, 1H ₂ 0 qs pH 5 -5, 5

Water qs 100

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

 (i) one or more compounds selected from ellagic acid, its ethers, the salts of ellagic acid and its ethers, and mixtures thereof, and

 (ii) one or more essential oils,

 (iii) one or more foaming agents.

 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the salt or salts of the compound (i) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, especially the sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium salts.

 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound (i) is ellagic acid or one of its salts.

 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight. % by weight of compound (s) (i), relative to the total weight of the composition.

 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil or essential oils are chosen from essential oils obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families:

 Abietaceae or Pinaceae: conifers

 Amaryllidaceae

 Anacardiaceae

 Anonaceae: ylang

 Apiaceae: dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley

 Araceae

Aristo lochiaceae Asteraceae: achiliate, mugwort, chamomile, helichryse

 bétulacées

 Brassicaceae

 Burseraceae: incense

 Pink Family

 Canellacées

 Césalpiniaceae: copaïfera (copahu)

 Chénopodacées

 Cistaceae: rockrose

 sedges

 Dipterocarpaceae

 Ericaceae: Wintergreen

 Spurge

 Fabaceae

 Geraniaceae: geranium

 Guttiferae

 Hamamelidaceae

 Hernandiacées

 Hypericaceae: St. John's wort

 Iridacées

 Juglandacées

 Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, monarde, savory, basil, marjaine, mint, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, melissa, rosemary

 Lauraceae: ravensara, bay leaves, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea

Liliaceae: garlic

 Magno liaces: magno lia

 Malvaceae

 Meliaceae

 Monimiacées

 Moraceae: hemp, hops

 Myricaceae

Mysristicaceae: nutmeg Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, caj eput, backousia, clove, myrtle

 Oleaceae

 Piperaceae: pepper

 Pittosporacées

 Poaceae: Lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver

 Polygonaceae

 Buttercup

 Rosaceae: roses

 Rubiaceae

 Rutaceae: all citrus

 Salicaceae

 Santalaceae: sandalwood

 Saxifragaceae

 Schisandracées

 Styracaceae: benzoin

 Thymelaceae: agarwood

 Tilliacées

 Valerianaceae: valerian, nard

 Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena

 Vio laced

 Zingiberaceae: galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger

Zygophyllaceae

 and their mixtures.

 6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oil or the essential oils are cho isies among the essential oils of:

 Tropical basil

 Caj eput

 Cinnamon

 Lemon catnip

 Citronelle

 Clove

Coriander Eucalyptus radiata

 Lemon Eucalyptus

 Eucalyptus globulus

 Geranium

 Bourbon geranium

 Laser siler

 Laurel noble

 Lemongrass

 Green mandarin

 Marjo wild wool

 Lemon balm

 niaouli

 Oregano from Spain

 Green oregano

 Rosemary to cineo

 Pink

 Savory mountains

 Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

 Thyme linalo l

 Thyme thymo l "vulgaris"

 Thyme thymo l "zygis"

 Verbena

 vetiver

 and their mixtures.

 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oil or the essential oils are chosen from the essential oils of lemon catnip, clove, lemon balm and green oregano, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight of essential oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the foaming agent (s) (iii) are chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

 10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside - polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of alkyl D - galactoside uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts. alkyl alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group, these anionic surfactants possibly being oxyethylenated.

 1 1. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt (s) of the anionic surfactant (s) are chosen from alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts, and salts. of alkaline earth metals.

 12. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 4 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight. by weight of surfactant (s) anionic (s).

13. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C12) phenols or fatty acids. polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, having a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups and / or from 2 to 10 glycerol groups; ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers, optionally oxyethylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides, alkylglucosides, N-alkylglucamine and N-acyl-methylglucamine derivatives, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

 14. A composition according to claim 9 or 13, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of agent (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the agent or agents surfactants amphoteric or zwitterionic active agents are chosen from alkyl (C ₈ -2o) betaines, (C ₈ -2o) sulphobetaines, (C ₈ -2o) amido (C 2-8 alkyl) betaines, C ₈ -C 20 alkylamido (C _2-8 alkyl) sulfobetaines.

 16. The composition as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic foaming surfactant or surfactants are chosen from the following compounds of respective structures (Al) and (A2):

R _a - C ONHCH2 CH2-N ⁺ (Rb) (Rc) (CH ₂ COO ^") (Al) in which:

R _a represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a R _a -COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group; and R _a <-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (A2) in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ^* ,

B 'represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X ^* represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y ^* represents -COOH, -COOZ ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

 Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-yl propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

R _a 'represents a C 1 -C ₃ alkyl or alkenyl group of an R _a ' COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C _{1 7} and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

 17. Composition according to claim 9, 15 or 16, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10%. by weight of surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

 Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of foaming agents is at least 4% by weight, preferably 4 to 50% by weight, in particular 4 to 30% by weight. %> by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 20%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more thickening agents and / or one or more conditioning agents, and / or one or more additional surfactants different from the foaming agents (iii). .

20. Cosmetic treatment process, characterized in that it comprises the application of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 on the scalp and on keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, followed or not by rinsing with water.

 21. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 19 for washing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair and / or for eliminating or reducing dandruff, and in particular those caused by by yeasts of the genus Malassezia, on the scalp.