WO2012095786A2

WO2012095786A2 - Anti-uv cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2012095786A2
Application number: PCT/IB2012/050114
Authority: WO
Inventors: Florence L'alloret; Didier Candau; Maud WILLIEN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-01-11
Filing date: 2012-01-10
Publication date: 2012-07-19
Also published as: WO2012095786A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing: - at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μm and 30 μm, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%, and - at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C, in a single-phase or multi-phase medium comprising at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil.

Description

Anti-UV cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to the field of photoprotective compositions. One subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing at least composite particles having a size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη comprising a matrix and a screening material. This composition is for topical use and is more particularly intended for the photoprotection of the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It is known that light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that light rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, cause skin burns and erythema which can harm the development of a natural tan. For these reasons, and also for aesthetic reasons, there is constant demand for means for controlling this natural tanning in order thus to control the colour of the skin; this UV-B radiation should thus be screened out.

It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing of the skin. Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, for instance conservation of the skin's natural elasticity, people increasingly wish to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is thus desirable also to screen out UV-A radiation.

For the purpose of protecting the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, antisun compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A range and in the UV-B range are generally used. There are many cosmetic products comprising one or more inorganic and/or organic UV screening agents. In particular, the cosmetic products intended to be applied to the skin often comprise fine Ti0₂ particles to protect the skin from UV rays. These fine metal oxide particles generally have a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.1 μιη, preferably between 5x 10^"3 and 0.1 μιη, preferably between 10^"2 and 0.1 μιη, and preferentially between 1.5 ^χ 10^~2 and 5x 10^"2 μιη.

One of the major drawbacks of inorganic screening agents lies in the fact that conventional antisun formulations based on metal oxide pigments result, after application to the skin, in an uneven, inhomogeneous or even coarse distribution of said pigments on this skin, which may be detrimental to the quality of the overall photoprotective effect desired. This poor distribution of the screening metal oxide pigments that is observed at the surface of the skin is often linked to the fact that there is, in the initial composition itself (before application), a substantial lack of homogeneity (poor dispersion of the pigment in its support).

Another drawback of suntan compositions based on inorganic screening agents and more particularly based on titanium oxide Ti0₂ is that, once applied to the skin in the form of a film, they create, on the latter, a whitening effect which is cosmetically undesirable and is generally not much appreciated by the users. This effect is even more pronounced when the concentration of mineral screening agents in the composition is high. To avoid this problem, it would of course be possible to use reduced amounts of inorganic screening agent(s), but the resulting compositions, which would certainly result in films exhibiting an acceptable transparency on the skin, would then no longer offer suitable protection in the UV range, which greatly limits the advantage of such an option.

Finally, it is common to combine organic screening agents and inorganic pigments within sun protection compositions in order to broaden their spectrum of protection and consequently to improve the efficacy thereof. However, the use of certain sunscreens results in compositions that have a greasy and tacky feel that is not very pleasant. Therefore, there remains a need to have compositions comprising pigments that are compatible with organic screening agents which do not have the respective drawbacks of pigments (dispersibility, homogeneity of the formulae, whitening) and of organic screening agents. This problem has advantageously been solved with the compositions according to the invention.

Applications FR 2882371, WO 2006/083326 A2 and WO 98/37964 describe various processes for manufacturing composite particles constituted of a material comprising nanoparticles of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide.

Application WO 2006/061835 describes compositions comprising spherical composites based on a metal oxide and on a hydrophobic polymer.

Known in the cosmetic field are application EP 1 388 550, which targets the use of composite particles comprising a core formed of a metal oxide coated with a silicone or fluoro compound and the use thereof as a photoprotective cosmetic composition, and application WO 98/22539, which describes a sunscreen containing a particle of silicon and/or of another solid compound in which the silicon is in stoichiometric excess, said particle having a mean diameter of less than 120 nm and being covered with a layer of oxide having a thickness ranging from 1 to 300 nm.

Therefore, there remains a need to have UV sun protection compositions that are effective in photoprotection and that do not have the drawbacks presented above. Unexpectedly and advantageously, the inventors have shown that this need could be met by means of the compositions according to the present invention.

A first subject of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle of the invention being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%>, and - at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C, in a single-phase or multi-phase medium comprising at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil. Advantageously, this composition also comprises one or more organic, preferably water- soluble, UV screening agents.

Preferably, this (these) organic screening agent(s) is/are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, according to a first variant, the composition according to the invention is a single- phase composition, i.e. a solution.

Said solution is aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or anhydrous, with at least one polar oil and contains:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle of the invention being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%o, and better still between 3% and 60%>, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

According to one preferred embodiment of this first variant, the composition according to the invention is an anhydrous single-phase composition containing at least one polar oil and comprising:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle of the invention being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%,

- one or more organic UV screening agents in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

This composition has the advantage of having a good dispersion of the fillers, i.e. a homogeneous, smooth and grain-free appearance. According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention targets a composition comprising several phases such as, for example, an emulsion chosen from W/O, O/W, W/O/W or 0/W/O emulsions. Said composition contains at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil and comprises:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle of the invention being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

According to one preferred embodiment of this second variant, the composition according to the invention is an emulsion that contains at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil and that comprises:

- at least one water-soluble organic screening agent, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

Advantageously, it is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention is effective in photoprotection. Moreover, the composition has a homogeneous appearance, in particular on the microscopic scale and it does not generate a white deposit when it is applied to the skin. Moreover, it is highly satisfactory in terms of cosmeticity: it has a non-greasy, non-tacky feel. The following description and examples present other advantages, aspects and properties of the present invention. Definitions

The following definitions are used in the present text. The compositions according to the present invention are photoprotective compositions intended to screen UV radiation; these compositions are also known as anti-sun compositions or sun protection compositions.

The expression "mean size" of the particles is understood to mean the parameter D[4,3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" particle size analyser (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted to size distribution according to Mie theory. The parameter D[4,3] is measured; this is the mean diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For a spherical particle, reference will often be made to the "mean diameter".

The expression "mean elementary size" is understood to mean the size of non-aggregated particles.

Composite particles

The particles used according to the present invention, also referred to as "composite particles", comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent. The matrix comprises one or more organic and/or inorganic materials. The inorganic UV screening agent is generally chosen from metal oxides.

According to one preferred variant, the matrix is essentially constituted of the organic and/or inorganic material.

The inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix according to the present invention are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulphate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof.

The organic materials that can be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, poly- propylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly(butylene)- succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof. The inorganic UV screening agents that can be used in the composite particle are chosen from metal oxides.

Preferably, these metal oxides are chosen from titanium dioxide Ti0₂, zinc oxide ZnO and iron oxide FeO. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV screening agent is Ti0₂.

These metal oxides may be in the form of particles, having a mean size generally of less than 0.2 μιη. Advantageously, the Ti0₂ particles used have a mean size of less than or equal to 0.1 μιη. These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers having a mean thickness generally of less than 0.2 μιη.

Preferably, the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 45%, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The composite particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical.

They may be hollow, smooth, rough or porous. When the composite particles are in spherical form, they are characterized by a mean diameter between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, preferably between 0.2 μιη and 20 μιη and more preferably between 0.3 μιη and 10 μιη, advantageously between 0.5 μιη and 10 μιη. The term "spherical" is understood to mean that the particle has a sphericity index, i.e. the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.

Forms of the composite particles According to a first variant, the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agent are included. Preferably, the composite particles are constituted of a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agent are included.

According to this embodiment, the matrix has inclusions and particles of inorganic UV screening agent are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.

Preferably, the composite particles are spherical and have inclusions in which particles of inorganic UV screening agent are placed.

As composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles having a mean size between 2 and 7 μιη are formed of Ti0₂ encapsulated in a silica matrix.

According to a second variant, the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, which matrix is covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV screening agent which may be connected to the matrix with the aid of a binder.

According to this second variant, the matrix particles are, preferably, of spherical shape. According to this second variant, the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is generally about ten nanometres. The mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV screening agent is advantageously between 10^~3 and 0.2 μιη, preferably between 10^~2 and 0.2 μιη.

According to a third variant, the composite particles contain an inorganic UV screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material. According to this third variant, the particles of inorganic UV screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 10^"3 and 0.2 μιη. Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size between 10^~2 and 0.1 μιη.

The matrix may be formed from one or more organic or inorganic materials. It may then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in which the materials can no longer be dissociated, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example constituted of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another different organic or inorganic material.

According to one variant, in particular when the composite particles comprise a matrix covered with a layer of UV screening agent, the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.

The composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 μιη, preferably between 0.5 and 20 μιη and more preferably between 0.3 and 10 μιη, advantageously between 0.5 and 10 μιη.

Preferably, the UV screening agent used in the composite particle is Ti0₂ or a mixture of Ti0₂ and ZnO.

Preferably, the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or mixture of materials chosen from: - Si0₂,

- polymethyl methacrylate,

- copolymers of styrene and of a C1/C5 alkyl (meth)acrylate derivative,

- polyamides, such as nylons.

Mention may also be made of the following particles:

- spherical composite particles having a mean size between 4 and 8 μιη, containing Ti0₂ and Si0₂ and having the trade name Eospoly TR sold by the company CREATIONS COULEURS,

- composite particles containing Ti0₂ and a styrene/alkyl acrylate copolymer matrix sold under the name Eospoly UV TR22 HB 50 by the company CREATIONS COULEURS,

- composite particles containing Ti0₂ and ZnO and a PMMA matrix and having the trade name Sun PMMA-T50 sold by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL. Among the composite particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of spherical composite particles containing Ti0₂ and Si0₂ and having the trade name STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemical.

Dispersant

The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

The HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin meaning is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (Vol. 5), page 249-256. The dispersing surfactants may be chosen from surfactants that are soluble or dispersible in water.

The dispersants used according to the invention preferably belong to the following families:

- glycosylated (1 to 10) or non-glycosylated polyethylene (1 to 50) glycol alkyl ethers;

- glyceryl or polyglyceryl (1 to 10) alkyl ethers;

- sucrose alkyl esters or ethers;

- pentaerythritol alkyl esters or ethers;

- ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated sorbitol alkyl esters or ethers;

- ethoxylated derivatives of cholesterol;

- alkali metal salts of alkyl phosphate;

- alkali metal salts of alkyl glutamate; and

- polysorbates.

The term "alkyl" is understood to mean one or more saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty chains comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Dispersing surfactants that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are Steareth 10, Ceteth 10, Laureth 4, Trideceth 6, polyoxyethylenated 4 OE sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 8 OE monostearate, hexaglyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 12 OE distearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE methylglucose distearate, sodium and potassium salts of monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from the company DSM), sodium and potassium salts of alkyl glutamate (Amisoft HS21 from the company Ajinomoto), and polysorbates.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic dispersing surfactant is chosen from polysorbates, and preferably polysorbate 20. Preferably, the content of dispersing surfactants of the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition medium

Naturally, within the meaning of the present invention, the composition medium is a physiologically acceptable medium. According to a first variant, the composition medium is a single-phase medium. This medium may be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Reference is then made to an aqueous solution or aqueous-alcoholic solution.

The medium may also be an anhydrous medium, essentially constituted of one or more oil(s). The expression "anhydrous medium" is understood to mean any support comprising less than 3% by weight of water, or less than 1% by weight of water, or more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or is free of water. The alcohol, when it is present, is chosen from lower alcohols and polyols. These latter may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

The alcohols are preferably chosen from C₁-C4 alcohols. Preferably, it is ethanol.

When the medium is an aqueous-alcoholic solution, it generally comprises from 10% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a second variant, the composition is a multi-phase composition, comprising at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil. Preferably, the anhydrous phase contains at least one polar oil in a content ranging from 1% to 95%, preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polar oils

The expression "polar oil" is understood to mean any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 5d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter δρ characteristic of polar interactions of strictly greater than 0. The solubility parameters 5d and δρ are defined according to the Hansen classification. For example, these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- δο characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5_h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- δα is determined by the equation: δ_α= (δ_ρ ² + 5h²)^½.

The parameters δ_ρ, 5_h, δο and 5_a are expressed in (J/cm³)^½.

Preferably, the polar oil will have a surface tension greater than or equal to 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

The surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Noiiy ring. The principle of the measurement is the following (measurement carried out at 25°C, at atmospheric pressure):

The weight of the ring is neutralized by a tare. The ring is completely immersed in the liquid to be evaluated, then withdrawn very slowly until the force reaches its maximum. From this maximum force Fmax, the surface tension is calculated according to the equation: σ = Fmax / 4πΚ fcorr (r, R,p) with fcorr: correction factor of the ring depending on the geometry of the ring and the density p.

The parameters r and R respectively denote the internal and external radii of the ring.

The polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin. The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. According to a first embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non- volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:

- hydrocarbon-based polar oils such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆, and especially from Ci8 to C₃6, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810^®, 812^® and 818^® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

- hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethyl hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, Ci₂ to C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, and myristyl myristate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1 ,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of polyols and of dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate; - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- fluorinated oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based;

- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC^® by COGNIS; and

- non- volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) esters such as:

a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol),

b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol),

c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate, d) esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate

(MW = 1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2- decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol),

e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5^® and Lusplan DD-DA7^® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference,

- and mixtures thereof. Preferably the polar oil is chosen from C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.

Preferably, the polar oil is C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol benzoate. The "fatty phase" of the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a wax, an apolar oil or mixtures thereof.

The term "wax" is understood to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and which has a melting point generally of greater than 35°C.

The apolar oils and the waxes conventionally used in cosmetic compositions may be used in the compositions according to the present invention.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and/or dermato logical active agents.

A person skilled in the art will select said active agent(s) as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic UV screening agent.

Counted among the organic UV screening agents are in particular the following UV screening agents. 1) Hydrophobic UV-A screening agents

Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;

Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

Aminobenzophenones :

n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul A+ by BASF;

1 , 1 '-(1 ,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone (CAS 919803-06-8). Anthranilic derivatives:

Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.

4.4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:

1,1 -Dicarboxy-(2,2 '-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Merocyanine derivatives:

Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulphonyl-2,4-pentadienoate. Within the context of the invention, and according to one particular embodiment, the following hydrophobic screening agents are used:

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; and/or

n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. 2) Water-soluble UV-A screening agents

Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex.

Bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323, and US 2,463,264 and more particularly the disodium phenyl dibenzimidazotetrasulphonate compound sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Symrise.

The preferred water-soluble UV-A screening agent is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid.

3) Hydrophobic UV-B screening agents

ara-aminobenzoates :

Ethyl PABA;

Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA;

Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (Escalol 507 from ISP).

Salicylic derivatives:

Homosalate sold in particular under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries;

Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise; Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name Dipsal by Scher;

TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.

Cinnamates

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;

Isopropyl methoxycinnamate;

Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise;

Diisopropyl methylcinnamate;

Cinnoxate;

Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. β, β'-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:

Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF;

Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF.

Benzylidene camphor derivatives:

3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex;

Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex.

Triazine derivatives:

Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150 by BASF;

Diethylhexyl butamidotriazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3 V;

2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine;

2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine;

2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine; 2,4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine;

the symmetrical triazine screening agents described in patent US 6,225,467, patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-l ,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6- tris(biphenyl-4-yl-l,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l ,3,5-triazine, the latter two screening agents being described in Beiersdorf patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985).

Imidazoline derivatives:

Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Benzalmalonate derivatives:

Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.

Within the context of the invention, and according to one particular embodiment, the following hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the composition of the invention:

Ethylhexyl salicylate;

Octocrylene;

Ethylhexyl triazone. 4) Water-soluble UV-B screening agents

The following /?-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives:

PABA,

Glyceryl PABA and

PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.

Phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck,

ferulic acid,

salicylic acid,

DEA methoxycinnamate,

benzylidene camphor sulphonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by

Chimex,

camphor benzalkonium methosulphate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO by Chimex.

The preferred water-soluble UVB screening agent is phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid.

5) Mixed UVA and UVB hydrophobic screening agents

Benzophenone derivatives:

Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF;

Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF;

Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF;

Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid;

Benzophenone- 10 ;

Benzophenone- 11 ;

Benzophenone- 12.

Phenyl benzotriazole derivatives:

Drometrizole trisiloxane sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex;

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form in particular under the trade name Mixxim BB/100 by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives:

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba-Geigy.

Benzoxazole derivatives:

2,4-Bis[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino- 1,3,5-triazine, sold in particular under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

The preferred UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents are chosen from:

Drometrizole trisiloxane;

- Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol;

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

6) Mixed UVA and UVB water-soluble screening agents

Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulphonic radical, such as

Benzophenone-4 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul MS 40 by BASF,

Benzophenone-5 and

Benzophenone-9. The UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents, when they are present, are present in contents ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. ADDITIVES

The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoaming agents, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.

Among the organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols. The latter can be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers, such as the poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the names Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Landec, or else modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the aforementioned optional additional compound(s) and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

Galenic forms

The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.

They may be anhydrous and in particular may be in the form of anhydrous oil, cream or gel.

They may comprise an aqueous phase and a fatty phase and may be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, 0/W/O or W/O/W) such as a milk, a cream or a cream gel. They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may be in the form of a spray.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.

The emulsification processes that may be used are of paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and high-pressure homogenizer (HPH) type.

To obtain stable emulsions with a low content of emulsifying compounds (oil/emulsifier ratio > 25), it is possible to make the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase. It is also possible, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that may be as small as 100 nm.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W). The emulsions may also contain stabilizers of other types, for instance fillers, or gelling or thickening polymers. As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of the W/O emulsions, examples that may be mentioned include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.

Glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include, for example, polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

For the O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG 100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A- 92/06778.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from dimer surfactants known as "gemini surfactants" comprising two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and linked together, via the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group. Such surfactants are especially described in patent applications DE 19943681, DE 19943668, DE 42 27 391 and DE 196 08 117; JP-A- 11-60437; JP-A-8-311003; EP 0 697 244; EP 0 697 245; EP 0 708 079; DE 19622612 and JP-A 10-17593; WO 03/024412; US 5863886; WO 96/25388; WO 96/14926; WO 96/16930; WO 96/25384; WO 97/40124; WO 97/31890; DE 19750246; DE 19750245; DE 19631225; DE 19647060. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and of their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications: Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine, vol. 113, December 1998, pages 49-55, Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured' s Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, vol. 116, No. 7, pages 67-70. Preferred in particular among the above dimer surfactants are the anionic surfactants corresponding to formula (I):

where

R¹ and R³ represent a linear Cs-Ci6 alkyl group,

R² represents a C₂-Cs alkylene group,

X and Y each represent a group (C₂H₄0)_x-RF with x = 10-15,

and RF = -SO₃M where M represents an alkali metal atom. A preferred gemini surfactant of this family is a sodium dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 sulfate (INCI name) anionic compound of formula:

N .(PEG- 15)— S0₃Na

cocoyl— C— N

CH₂

I

CH₂

_COcoyl-C-N ¹ __(pEG.₁₅₎__s03Na

O

This gemini surfactant may be used, for example, in the following mixtures sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution^®:

• Ceralution^® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate,

• Ceralution^® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate,

· Ceralution^® C: Aqua, Capric/Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamme PEG- 15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

The mixture Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG- 15 Sulfate (Ceralution^® H) will be used more particularly.

The concentration of gemini surfactant(s) used in the present invention preferably ranges from 0.001% to 8%, preferably from 0.01% to 4% and in particular from 0.05% to 3% relative to the total weight of the photoprotective composition.

Among the other emulsion stabilizers, use may also be made of isophthalic acid or sulphoisophthalic acid polymers, and in particular phthalate/sulphoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1,4- cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester-5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.

Among the other emulsion stabilizers, mention may also be made of hydrophobic modified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers such as those described in patent application EP 1 069 142.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

Examples

I Multi-phase compositions

The following compositions were produced: The first 4 compositions (Examples A to D) are comparative compositions and the fifth (Example 1) is a composition in accordance with the invention. The ingredients are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Phase Ingredients Ex. A Ex. B Ex. C Ex. D Ex. 1

A Glycerol 5 5 5 5 5

EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

Sunspheres 2 2 2 2 2

Deionized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

Triethano lamine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

Preserving agents 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2

Bl C12-15 alkyl

4 4 4 4 4 benzoate

Preserving agents 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

Isononyl 2 2 2 2 2 isononanoate

Ceralution H 3 3 3 3 3

Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Diisopropyl sebacate 4 4 4 4 4

2-ethylhexyl a- 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 cyano-β,β'- diphenylacrylate

2,4,6-tris[p-(2'- 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 ethylhexyl-Γ- oxycarbonyl)anilino]

-1,3,5-triazine

4-fert-butyl-4'- 3 3 3 3 3 methoxydibenzoyl- methane

Drometrizole 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 trisiloxane

Titanium dioxide 3.85 3.85 0 0 0 (Solaveil CT-200) B2 Hostacerin AMPS 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Crosslinked 2 2 2 2 2 polyacrylate

C Polysorbate 20 0 2 0 0 2

Cetyl alcohol 0 0 0 2 0

D Sunsil Tin 50 0 0 3.45 3.45 3.45

These compositions were evaluated according to the following properties:

homogeneity of the formulae on the microscopic scale,

screening efficacy, and

whitening on application to the skin.

Emulsion preparation method:

The aqueous phase A and oily phase Bl are prepared by mixing the raw materials, with mechanical stirring, at 80°C; the solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous. The emulsion is prepared by slow introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes. The emulsion obtained is cooled, with stirring, to 40°C, then the oily phase B2 is added thereto with gentle stirring, followed by the phases C and D. The emulsion obtained is cooled to room temperature with gentle stirring. It is characterized by drops of between 1 μιη and 10 μιη in size.

Protocol for evaluating the homogeneity of an emulsion

The homogeneity of the emulsions is evaluated by microscopic observation of the state of dispersion of the drops of oil and particles of Ti0₂ or of composites of the invention. In vitro protocol for evaluating the screening efficacy

The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133 (1989). The measurements were made using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm².

Protocol for evaluating whitening on the skin

The whitening on the skin is evaluated by application of the formula to a forearm in a porportion of 2 mg/cm² and macroscopic observation with the naked eye of the white appearance.

Only the composition of Example 1 in accordance with the invention presents satisfactory results over all of the properties tested:

• a satisfactory in vitro SPF,

• an emulsion having a homogeneous appearance by microscopic observation, and

• the absence of a white appearance when the composition is applied to the skin. Example 2

In the same way as above, the following emulsion according to the invention is prepared:

Phase Ingredients Ex. 2

A Glycerol 5

EDTA 0.1

Sunspheres 2

Deionized water qs 100

Triethano lamine 0.3

Preserving agents 1.2

Bl C12-15 alkyl

4

benzoate

Preserving agents 0.25

Isononyl 2

isononanoate

Ceralution H 3

Cetyl alcohol 0.5

Diisopropyl sebacate 4

2-ethylhexyl a- 3.5

cyano-β,β'- diphenylacrylate

2,4,6-tris[p-(2'- 2.3

ethylhexyl- - oxycarbonyl)anilino]

-1,3,5-triazine

4-fert-butyl-4'- 3

methoxydibenzoyl- methane

Drometrizole 0.5

trisiloxane B2 Hostacerin AMPS 0.5

Crosslinked 2

polyacrylate

C Polysorbate 20 2

D Sunsil Tin 50 3.45

E Terephthalylidene 1.5

dicamphor sulphonic

acid (Mexoryl SX)

Triethano lamine 0.26

F Alcohol 7

The composition of Example 2 also has a satisfactory in vitro SPF, an emulsion having a homogeneous appearance by microscopic observation, and the absence of a white appearance when the composition is applied to the skin.

II Single-phase compositions

The compositions of Examples 3 and 4 were prepared in the following manner:

Phase A is prepared by mixing the raw materials and heating to 90-95°C with stirring until the raw materials have fully dissolved. The mixture is cooled to 25°C with stirring. Phase B is then incorporated at 25°C with stirring until completely homogenized.

Phase C is prepared by producing a slurry of the filler in the presence of 0.1% of surfactant. The powder thus obtained is dispersed, with stirring, in the composition.

Example 3

Phase Ingredients

LIQUID PARAFFIN 29.4

CAPPvYLIC/CAPRIC

A TRIGLYCERIDE (60/40) (MYRITOL 20.0

318- COGNIS)

ETHYLHEXYL 7.5 METHOXYCTNNAMATE

DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2.5

FRAGRANCE 0.5

VITAMIN E 0.2

DYE 0.004

B CYCLOPENTASILOXANE qs

SUNSIL TIN 50 * 10

C

POLYSORBATE 20 0.1

sold by the company Sunjin.

Example 4

^Nsold by the company Creations Couleurs.

These compositions of Examples 3 and 4 make it possible to obtain a good dispersion of the fillers. This results in formulae that have a smooth and grain- free appearance.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition containing:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%>, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C,

in a single-phase or multi-phase medium comprising at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil.

2. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , in the form of an aqueous, aqueous- alcoholic or anhydrous solution with at least one polar oil and containing:

- at least composite particles having a mean size between 0.1 μιη and 30 μιη, comprising a matrix and an inorganic UV screening agent, the weight content of inorganic UV screening agent in a particle being between 1% and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65%, and better still between 3% and 60%, and

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

3. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , comprising several phases including at least one anhydrous phase containing at least one polar oil and comprising:

- at least one dispersing surfactant having an HLB of greater than 6 at 25°C.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the matrix comprises one or more organic and/or inorganic materials.

5. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 4, in which the inorganic material is chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulphate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminium oxide, aluminium silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof.

6. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 4, in which the organic material is chosen from the group formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly(butylene)succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the matrix of the composite particle contains a material or mixture of materials chosen from:

- Si0₂,

- polymethyl methacrylate,

- copolymers of styrene and of a C1/C5 alkyl (meth)acrylate derivative,

- polyamides, in particular nylons.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the inorganic UV screening agent is chosen from metal oxides.

9. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the inorganic UV screening agent is chosen from Ti0₂, ZnO, and FeO, preferably Ti0₂.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composite particle is spherical and contains a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV screening agent are included.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the composite particle is spherical and contains a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, which matrix is covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV screening agent.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the composite particle is spherical and contains an inorganic UV screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersing surfactant is chosen from:

- glyceryl or polyglyceryl (1 to 10) alkyl ethers;

- sucrose alkyl esters or ethers;

- pentaerythritol alkyl esters or ethers;

- ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated sorbitol alkyl esters or ethers;

- ethoxylated derivatives of cholesterol;

- alkali metal salts of alkyl phosphate;

- alkali metal salts of alkyl glutamate;

- polysorbates.

14. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the dispersing surfactant is chosen from Steareth 10, Ceteth 10, Laureth 4, Trideceth 6, polyoxyethylenated 4 OE sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 8 OE monostearate, hexaglyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE monostearate, polyoxyethylenated 12 OE distearate, polyoxyethylenated 20 OE methylglucose distearate, sodium and potassium salts of monocetyl phosphate, sodium and potassium salts of alkyl glutamate, and polysorbates, preferably polysorbate 20.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing a fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile polar oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based polar oils; synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; higher C12-C22 fatty acids; fluorinated oils which are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based; silicone oils; fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; dialkyl carbonates; vinylpyrrolidone copolymers; linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70; hydroxylated esters; aromatic esters; esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols; esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing an organic UV screening agent.