WO2013092722A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose and an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair,comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and one or more anionic surfactantscomprising one or more carboxylate group(s), said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) comprising a main chain consisting of a non-ionic cellulose ether to which is or are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from: 1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C₃-C₆ alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, 2) C₉-C₃₀ alkyl groups, and C₆-C₃₀ aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, 3) and mixtures thereof, said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) not comprising a C₃-C₈ non-alkoxylated alkyl group, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) being present in an amount ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of said composition for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose and an anionic surfactant comprising one or more carboxylate group(s)

The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more specific hydrophobically modified celluloses and one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s).

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using such a composition and also to a cosmetic use of said composition.

In the field of cosmetic haircare, the care of keratin fibres subjected to various external attacking factors is sought. Specifically, these fibres may be subject to attack of various origins, such as mechanical attack, for example linked to disentangling or blow-drying, or alternatively chemical attack, for example following dyeing or permanent-waving.

These attacks have consequences on the qualities of the keratin fibre and may lead to difficult disentangling at the time of washing the hair, on dry hair and/or wet hair, and also to degradation of the surface properties of the fibres, which become non-smooth and irregular at the surface, more particularly when the hair is dry.

Products exist which make it possible to wash the hair while at the same time conditioning it, known as conditioning shampoos, and which make it possible to limit these phenomena. These products generally contain, in addition to anionic surfactants, one or more agents for conditioning keratin fibres, such as cationic polymers. These compounds are deposited on the keratin fibres and make it possible to improve the condition of the fibres, and also the cosmetic properties thereof.

However, although they make it possible to soften keratin fibres, and to improve disentangling and smoothing of the hair, these compounds, used in conditioning shampoos, are not totally environmentally friendly.

There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions which are less ecotoxic, or even non-ecotoxic, while at the same time making it possible to condition the hair satisfactorily, or even more successfully compared with the compositions of the prior art.

The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the use of a specific hydrophobically modified cellulose in a washing base comprising one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

These specific celluloses are in particular described in international patent application WO 2006/065848.

A subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more specific hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, as described hereinafter, and one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), in an amount ranging from 3% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This specific combination has proved to be particularly suitable for washing and caring for the hair and has made it possible to obtain improved cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, a smooth feel and a natural coating, while at the same time avoiding an overload after several applications.

In addition, these shampoo and care compositions are more eco-friendly, i.e. less ecotoxic with respect to the environment.

The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, consisting in applying to the hair or the body a composition according to the invention, and then in rinsing.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups (degree of hydrophobization) of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and from 3% to 50%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) comprising a main chain consisting of a non- ionic cellulose ether to which is or are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:

1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3- alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl group,

2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C₁₂-C₁₈, alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups. The aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups preferably comprise from 7, better still from 8, and even more preferentially from 10 carbon atoms, up to 22, even better still up to 18, and even more preferentially up to 16 carbon atoms,

3) and mixtures thereof,

said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) not comprising a C3-C8 non-alkoxylated alkyl group.

As examples of alkoxy groups in the 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) group, mention may be made of hexyloxy, 2-ethylhexyloxy, octyloxy, cetyloxy and octadecyloxy groups.

Examples of a hydrophobic group of family 2) are in particular decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl, cetyl, octadecyl and methylphenyl groups, and even better still dodecyl (or lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (or myristyl), pentadecyl and cetyl groups.

The hydrophobic group(s) may be attached to the cellulose ether chain via an ether, ester or urethane bond, the ether bond being particularly preferred.

Particularly preferably, the hydrophobic group(s) is (are) chosen from:

Γ) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,

2') C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C₁₂-C₁₈, and even more preferentially

C12-C16, alkyl groups,

3') and mixtures thereof,

and even better still from those of family 2').

By way of examples of non- ionic cellulose ethers constituting the main chain, mention may in particular be made of hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), methylcellulose (MC), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and methylhydroxyethylcellulose (MHEC). Hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred.

In the hydrophobically modified cellulose of the invention, all or some of the hydroxyl -OH groups of the cellulose have become -OR groups with R denoting in particular a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl group, or a hydrophobic group as defined above.

The content of hydrophobic groups (or degree of hydrophobization) of the hydrophobically modified celluloses of the invention corresponds to the ratio of the total weight of the hydrophobic groups to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, multiplied by 100.

This content is greater than 0.6% by weight, and preferably greater than 0.8% by weight, and better still greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of hydrophobically modified cellulose. This content is preferentially less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.

The hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention has (have) a weight-average molecular weight ranging preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000, and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.

Preferably, the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) used in the invention is (are) chosen from cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.

By way of examples of hydrophobically modified cellulose, mention may be made of the following compounds listed in Table 1, which are commercially available from Hercules: Table 1

The Cellulose 1 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4,228,277, using a cetyl halide as reactant, and a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.

The Cellulose 2 compound is prepared according to the process described in Examples 1 to 10 of US 4,228,277, using a hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) having an appropriate molar degree of hydroxyethyl substitution.

The Cellulose 3 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EPl 858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.

The Cellulose 4 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EPl 858970, using a mixture of epoxide derivatives of dodecane and of tetradecane.

The Cellulose 5 compound is prepared according to a process similar to that described in Example 27 of EP 1858970, using a cetyl halide in place of the epoxide.

The hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are surfactants comprising, by way of ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups, at least one of which is a -C0₂M group, M denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are not soaps, that is to say they are different from the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals or of ammonium, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, do not contain sulfonate groups.

By way of examples of anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactosiduronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, and alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.

The salts of C₆-C₂4 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C₆-C₂4 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, and C₆-C₂4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) of the invention is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino- 2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Use is preferably made of the aminoalcohol salts, alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular the triethanolamine, sodium or magnesium salts.

Among the anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) mentioned above, use is preferably made of the (C₆-C24)acylsarcosinates, the (C₆- C24)acylglutamates and the (C₆-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, better still the (C₁₂- C2o)acylsarcosinates, the (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates and the (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Even more preferentially, use is preferably made of the (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates, the (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates or a mixture thereof.

In one variant of the invention, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate groups(s) has (have) the structure (A):

Y-CH(Z)-COOM (A)

with

Z denoting a hydrogen atom or a -CH₂CH₂COOM' group,

Y denoting a R'CONH-, R²(OCH₂CH₂)„0-, or R³CON(CH₃)- group, R¹, R² and R³ denoting, independently of each other, a linear or branched

C₆-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group,

M and M' denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine.

In this variant, Y preferably denotes an R'CONH- or R²(OCH₂CH₂)„0- group.

By way of examples of anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of triethanolamine cocoylglutamate, sodium cocoylglutamate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 mol of ethylene oxide (or EO)) (or laureth-5-carboxylic acid: INCI name) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA by Kao.

The anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is

(are) present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferentially ranging from 3% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the amount of carboxylate anionic surfactant(s) and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 1 to 200, better still from 5 to 100 and even more preferentially from 5 to 50.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants other than those set out above, i.e. which have no carboxylate group, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non- ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The expression "anionic surfactant which has no carboxylate group" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, by way of ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups chosen in particular from -SO₃H, -SO₃ ^", -OSO₃H, -OSO₃ ^", -H₂PO₃, -HPO3^", -PO3^2", -H2PO2, -HPO2^", -PO2^2", -POH, -PO groups, and comprising no -CO₂H or -CO₂ ^" group.

By way of examples of anionic surfactants which have no carboxylate group, that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, N,N-methyl-(Ci₂-C₂o)acyltaurates; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. When the anionic surfactant(s) which has (have) no carboxylate group is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from the alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcohol salts, or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

More particularly, examples of anionic surfactants which have no carboxylate group are in particular sodium Ν,Ν-methylcocoyltaurate and sodium cocoylisethionate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate.

Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants do not contain sulfate units.

When they are present, the amount of the additional anionic surfactant(s) comprising no carboxylate group preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of anionic surfactants in the compositions of the invention ranges preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 30% by weight, better still from 3% to 25% by weight and more particularly from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C₈- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C₈)alkylbetaines and (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (Bl) and (B2) below: R_aCONHCH₂CH2N⁺(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO^") (B 1 ) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

RaCOOH, preferably present in hydro lysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxy ethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

in which:

B represents the group -CH₂CH₂OX',

B' represents the group -(CH₂)_ZY', with z = 1 or 2,

X* represents the group -CH₂COOH, CH₂COOZ',

-CH₂CH₂COOH, -CH₂CH₂COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group

-CH₂CHOHS0₃H or the group -CH₂CHOHS0₃Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,

Ra' represents a Cio-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra_'COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C₁₇ and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol^® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C₂o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of non- ionic surfactants that may be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are in particular chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci- C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)mono- or polyglycosides, N-(C₆-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C₁₀- Ci4 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C₁₀-C₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Unless otherwise mentioned, the term "fatty" compound, such as, for example, a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, denotes a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

When they are present, the amount of the non- ionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 20%> by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 10%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total amount of surfactants, chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and non-ionic surfactants, ranges from 3% to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight and better still from 8%) to 30%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more cationic surfactants.

The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise(s) in particular the salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may in particular be mentioned include:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (I):

(I) in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C₆)alkyl, (Ci₂-C₂₂)alkyl acetate, and C₁-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts having formula (I), firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (II) below:

(II) in which

Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,

Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Ri4 represents a C₁-C₄ alkyl group,

Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl group, X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name Rewoquat^® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- diquaternary or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (III) below:

(III) in which Ri₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

Ri₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH₂)₃-N⁺(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a),

Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R₂o and R₂i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quatemium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (IV) below:

(IV)

in which:

R₂₂ is chosen from Ci-C₆ alkyl groups and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R₂₃ is chosen from: - the group F¾— c—

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27,

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

o

- the group F¾— C—

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R29,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

rl and tl , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 , r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

X^" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion,

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R₂₅ denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X^" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function.

The anion X^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- P 23 is chosen from:

O

• the group R₂— C—

• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and · a hydrogen atom,

- P 25 is chosen from:

o

• the group F¾— C—

• a hydrogen atom,

- P 24, P 26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear. Among the compounds of formula (IV), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehy quart^® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium^® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat^® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

By way of example of such compounds, mention may be made of distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates.

Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

When the composition contains one or more cationic surfactants, their content preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.

The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, which are preferably non-siliceous.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all of those already known per se to enhance the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used have a weight-average molecular weight of more than 10⁵, preferably of more than 10⁶ and better still of between 10⁶ and 10⁸.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, poly amino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.

The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type that can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formulae (V), (VI), (VII) and (VIII) below:

in which:

R₃ and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,

R₅, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH₃ group,

A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Re, P 7, R-8, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

X^" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion, or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from co monomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (d-C₄) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrro lidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, and

crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C₄)alkyltri(Ci- C₄)alkyl ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil can more particularly be used. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-37), for example, as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;

(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361 ;

(3) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508; (4) polyammoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;

(5) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from digly colic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the molar ratio of the polyalkylene polyamine to the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1, the polyammoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyammoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyldiethylenetriamine copolymer;

(6) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (IX) or (X):

(IX)

R 10

(X) in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1 ; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Rio and Rn , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or Rio and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406.

Rio and Rn , independently of one another, denote preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name Merquat 550;

(7) the diquaternary ammonium polymer containing in particular repeating units corresponding to formula (XI):

(XI) in which:

Ri3, Ri4, Ri5 and Ri₆, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri₆, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri₆ represent a linear or branched Ci-C₆ alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X^" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid,

Ai, Ri3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group (CH₂)_n-CO-D-OC-(CH₂)_p-,

n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:

-(CH₂-CH₂-0)_x -CH₂-CH₂-,

-[CH₂-CH(CH3)-0]_y-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-,

in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization,

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative, c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH₂-CH₂- S-S-CH₂-CH₂-,

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X^" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight of between 1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.

Use may more particularly be made of polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to formula (XII):

in which Ris, R19, R20 and R21 , which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X^" is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (XII) is that for which Ris, Ri9, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r = 3, s = 6 and X = CI, which is called Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA);

(8) polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting in particular of units of formula (XIII):

R 22 R 24

+ +

N (CH₂)— NH— CO— (CH₂)— CO— NH— (CH₂)— N— A

R₂₃ X R X

25

(XIII) in which:

R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pOH group,

where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that

R₂2, R23, R24 and R₂₅ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

X^" denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH₂-CH₂-0-CH₂-

CH₂-.

Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122

324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADl, Mirapol® AZl and Mirapol® 175, sold by the company Miranol;

(9) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the company BASF;

(10) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt such as 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are used, for example;

(11) cationic proteins or cationic protein hydro lysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular weight may range, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may in particular be made of:

- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate;

- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under the name Quat-Pro

S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen;

- animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein;

- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, said ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter alia, of: - Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₂ alkyl group;

- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain C₁₀-C₁₈ alkyl groups; - Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C₁₈ alkyl group;

- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These various products are sold by the company Croda.

Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to formula (XIV):

in which X^" is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R2 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, and R30 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex, under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.

Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such as wheat, corn or soybean proteins, for instance quaternized wheat proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by the company Croda under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum QL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is (are) chosen from those of families (1), (6), (9) and (10).

Among these preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is more particularly preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and of methylvinylimidazolinium chloride sold under the name Luviquat Excellence by BASF, cationic polysaccharides, more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, under the name Jaguar C13S by the company Rhodia or cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, for instance the cellulose ethers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR400 LT by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C₄)alkyltri(Ci- C₄)alkylammonium salts, such as the crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Salcare SC95 by the company Ciba, and mixtures thereof.

When it (they) is (are) present, the cationic polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in proportions preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more branched fatty alcohols. They preferably comprise from 10 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 16 to 40, even better still from 20 to 40 carbon atoms. They are neither glycerolated nor oxyalkylenated.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non- aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

They may be solid or liquid, and preferably liquid.

The term "liquid fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

By way of examples of a branched fatty alcohol, mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2- tetradecyl-l-cetanol, 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-tetradecyl- 1-eicosanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-octadecanol, 2-hexadecyl-l-eicosanol and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the branched fatty alcohol used in the invention is 2- octyl- 1 -dodecanol.

When it (they) is (are) present, the branched fatty alcohol(s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more silicones which are not chemically modified.

In the text hereinbelow, the term "silicone" is intended to denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based groups being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based groups that are the most common are alkyl groups, especially Ci-Cio alkyl groups, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl groups, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl groups and in particular phenyl.

For the purpose of the present invention, the expression "silicone which is not chemically modified" is intended to mean any linear or cyclic silicone which does not comprise in its structure any organo functional group, such as a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy, thiol, alkoxy, hydroxyl, acyloxyalkyl or hydroxyacylamino group.

The silicones which are not chemically modified, of the invention, comprise in their structure only siloxane groups substituted with alkyl or aryl groups.

The silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Polyorganosiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

These polyorganosiloxanes are preferably chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl groups being a phenyl group.

Even more preferentially, the alkyl groups are methyl groups. The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.

These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:

with D" : — Si - O— with D' - Si -0

I I

CH, ^C8 ^H1 7

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'- hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x 10^"6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company

Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS

"Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". When the silicones are non- volatile, use is preferably made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5x 10^"6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C and preferably l x lO^"5 to 1 m²/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non- limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000,

- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,

- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 x 10^"5 to 5x 10^~2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia,

- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,

- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow Corning,

- the silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as the product

PK20,

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PHI 000, - certain oils of the SF series from the company General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffms, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products:

- polydimethylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,

- poly dimethy lsilo xane/ dipheny lsilo xane/methy lvinylsilo xane gums .

Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures:

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number- average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x 10^"6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units: R2S1O2/2, R3S1O1/2, RS1O3/2 and S1O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon- based group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a Q- C₄ alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.

Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethy 1/trimethylsilo xane structure .

Mention may also be made of the resins of the trimethylsiloxy silicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The silicones which are not chemically modified, that are particularly preferred, are linear polydimethylsiloxanes comprising trimethylsilyl end groups or dimethicones.

When it (they) is (are) present, the silicone(s) which is (are) not chemically modified is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in preferential amounts ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of silicone(s) which is (are) not chemically modified and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.

The composition may also comprise one or more amino silicones.

The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise(s) in its (their) structure at least 4 silicon atoms.

The amino silicones used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from:

(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XV) below:

(R¹)_a(T)₃_a-Si[OSi(T)₂]_n-[OSi(T)_b(R¹)₂__b]_m-OSi(T)₃_a-(R¹)a (XV) in which:

T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or Ci-Cs alkyl group, and preferably methyl, or a Ci-Cs alkoxy, preferably methoxy,

a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 , m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,

R¹ is a monovalent group of formula -C_qH_2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N(R²)₂,

-N(R²)₂,

-N⁺(R²)₃ Q ,

-N⁺(R²) (H)₂ Q ,

-N⁺(R²)₂HQ-,

-N(R²)-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(R²)(H)₂ Q ,

in which R² may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a Ci-C₂o alkyl group, and Q^" represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (XV) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XVI) below:

in which R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH₃, a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably methoxy, or OH, A represents a linear or branched, C₃-Cs and preferably C₃-C₆ alkylene group and m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones".

According to a second possibility, R, R' and R", which may be identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R or R" is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10⁶. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.

According to a third possibility, R and R", which are different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R' representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously is equal to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight- average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.

It should be noted that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm/minute, 200 μΐ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XV) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XVII) below: (CH₃)₃ SiO

NhL

(XVII) in which n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XV).

Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 95238. A compound of formula (XV) is sold, for example, under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI;

(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:

(XVIII) in which:

R³ represents a Ci-Cis monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,

R⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group,

Q^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride, r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to

8,

s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from

20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US 4, 185,087. A compound falling within this category is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56;

(c) quaternary ammonium silicones, in particular of formula (XIX): o -

in which:

R₇, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C₂-Cis alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,

Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene group or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an Si-C bond,

R-8, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl group, a C₂-Cis alkenyl group or a group -R6-NHCOR₇,

X^" is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.),

r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to

100.

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-0 530

974;

d) the amino silicones of formula (XX):

(C_mH_2m)

(XX) in which:

- Ri, R₂, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, each denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or a phenyl group,

- R₅ denotes a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.

When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or non-ionic surfactants.

By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to the amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride, and a non-ionic surfactant of formula C₁₃H₂₇- (OC₂H₄)₁₂-OH, known under the CTFA name trideceth-12.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (XVII) described above, a non-ionic surfactant of formula: CsHn-CeFL;- (OCH₂CH₂)4o-OH, known under the CTFA name octoxynol-40, a second non-ionic surfactant of formula: Ci₂H₂5-(OCH₂-CH₂)6-OH, known under the CTFA name isolaureth-6, and propylene glycol.

Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Wacker-Belsil ADM LOG 1, sold by the company Wacker, comprising, in microemulsion form, an amodimethicone of formula (XVI) in combination with trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.

Other amino silicones can be used in the context of the invention, such as the product referenced in the CTFA dictionary under the name Polysilicone-9.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XV), and even more particularly from the amino silicones of formula (XVI) or (XVII).

When it (they) is (are) present, the amino silicone(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 3% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.7% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between, on the one hand, the amount of amino silicone(s) and, on the other hand, the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 0.1 to 100, even more preferentially from 1 to 20 and better still from 1.5 to 10.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more plant oils.

As examples of a plant oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of triglyceride oils of plant origin, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rose musk oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil, babassu oil, pracaxi oil, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred variant of the invention, the plant oil consists of triglycerides of which the total content of CI 8 fatty acids comprising an unsaturation and of C18 fatty acids comprising two unsaturations (called C18 : 1+C18 :2 according to the biochemical or physiological nomenclature of fatty acids) represents more than 20% by weight of the total content of fatty acids. As particularly preferred plant oil(s), mention may in particular be made of apricot oil, camellina oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rice bran oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

In one variant of the invention, the composition comprises two or more than two plant oils.

The content of plant oils of the composition of the invention can range from 0.001% to 20% and better still from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When it (they) is (are) present, the plant oil(s) is (are) preferably present in an amount of less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 4% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" is intended to mean a composition not containing any added water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or of adsorption of the starting materials. In any event, an anhydrous composition contains less than 5% by weight of water and better still less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is aqueous and comprises at least 30%> by weight of water, and preferably at least 45 %> by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is aqueous, its pH is generally between 2 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 8. Preferably, the pH is less than 7. Even more preferentially, it ranges from 3 to 6.

It may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.

Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include the organic acids already mentioned previously, or inorganic acids.

The term "inorganic acid" is intended to mean any acid derived from an inorganic compound. Among the inorganic acids, mention may be made of hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids and nitric acid. Use may be made in particular of inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the compounds of the following formula:

in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and Ra, Rc and Rj, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group.

Preferably, the pH modifiers may be chosen from alkaline agents such as aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3- propanediamine or an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, or else acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives chosen from ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, water-soluble or liposoluble sunscreens, nacreous agents and opacifiers, sequestrants, solubilizers, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, anti- seborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants and/or hair restorers, penetrants, fragrances, peptizers, plant waxes and preserving agents, or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

These additives can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof in such a way that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The compositions according to the invention can be, in a non-limiting manner, in the form of conditioning shampoos and conditioners, body wash products, and in particular a shower gel.

The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above and in rinsing.

The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body, or as conditioning shampoos.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 :

The following conditioning shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Amount as % by weight

Cellulose 1 (1) 0.5

Triethanolamine cocoylglutamate (2) 7.275 AM

Sodium N,N-methyl-cocoyltaurate (3) 1.5 AM

Cocobetaine (4) 3 AM

Cocamide ME A (5) 2

Polyquaternium-10 (6) 0.91 AM

Carbomer (7) 0.196 AM

Polyoxyethylenated (55 mol of EO) propylene

0.24 AM

glycol oleate (8)

Glycol distearate 1.5

Hexylene glycol 1

Glycerol 3

Sodium benzoate 0.5

Salicylic acid 0.2

Sodium pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate 3

Sodium chloride 0.5

Fragrance 0.5

Water qs 100

AM: Active Material

(1) as defined in Table 1

(2) Sold under the name Amisoft CT 12 by the company Ajinomoto, containing 30% by weight of active material

(3) Sold under the name Hostapon CT PATE by the company Clariant, containing 30% by weight of active material

(4) Sold under the name Dehyton AB 30 by the company Cognis, containing 30% by weight of active material

(5) Sold under the name Comperlan 100 by Cognis

(6) Sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400 LT by the company Amerchol, containing 93% by weight of active material

(7) Sold under the name Carbopol 980 by Lubrizol, containing 98%> by weight of active material

(8) Sold under the name Antil 141 Liquid by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt, containing 40% by weight of active material Example 2:

Another conditioning shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.

Ingredients Amount as % by weight

Cellulose 1 (1) 0.5

Sodium cocoylisethionate (2) 2.14 AM

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (3) 3.6 AM

Cocobetaine (4) 3.6 AM

Cocamide MIPA (5) 1.89 AM

PEG- 150 distearate 0.5

Polyquaternium-10 (6) 0.546 AM

Polyoxyethylenated (55 mol of EO) propylene

0.2 AM

glycol oleate (7)

Carbomer (8) 0.147 AM

Hexylene glycol 0.5

Glycerol 3

Glycol distearate 2

Methylchloroisothiazolinone(l .125%)/

0.00075 AM

Methylisothiazo linone(0.375 %) (9)

Sodium hydroxide 0.04

Fragrance 0.5

Water qs 100

AM: Active Material

(1 as defined in Table 1

(2 Sold under the name Hostapon SCI 85 G by the company Clariant, containing 85.5% by weight of active material

(3 Sold under the name Oramix L 30 by the company SEPPIC, containing 30% by weight of active material

( Sold under the name Dehyton AB 30 by the company Cognis, containing 30% by weight of active material

(5 Sold under the name Empilan CIS by the company Huntsman, containing 94.5% by weight of active material

(6 Sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400 LT by the company Amerchol, containing 93% by weight of active material

(7 Sold under the name Antil 141 Liquid by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt, containing 40% by weight of active material

(8 Sold under the name Carbopol 980 by Lubrizol, containing 98%> by weight of active material

(9 Sold under the name Kathon CG Preservative by the company Rohm and Haas, containing 1.5% by weight of active material Example 3 :

A shampoo composition according to the invention was prepared from the compounds indicated in the table below.

AM: Active Material

(1) as defined in Table 1

(2) Sold under the name Plantapon ACG LC by the company Cognis, containing 31.3% by weight of active material

(3) Sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP by the company Cognis, containing 52% by weight of active material

An expert noted that the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 are stable and have a satisfactory viscosity for being applied to hair.

The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 were applied to hair and then rinsed off.

After drying, the hair is easy to disentangle, supple and shiny.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for cleansing the body or for conditioning the hair, comprising one or more hydrophobically modified celluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose, and one or more anionic surfactants comprising one or more carboxylate group(s), said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) comprising a main chain consisting of a non- ionic cellulose ether to which is or are attached one or more hydrophobic groups chosen from:

1) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxy(C3-C6 alkyl) groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the 3- alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl group,

2) C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, alkyl groups, and C6-C30 aryl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups,

3) and mixtures thereof,

said hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) not comprising a C3-C8 non-alkoxylated alkyl group,

the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) being present in an amount ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight has (have) a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.8% by weight, more preferentially greater than 1% by weight and preferentially less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrophobic group(s) is (are) chosen from:

Γ) 3-alkoxy-2-hydroxypropyl groups in which the alkoxy fragment is branched or linear and comprises from 5 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms,

2') C9-C30, preferably C10-C22, better still C₁₂-C₁₈, and even more preferentially C₁₂- Ci6, alkyl groups, 3') and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) having a content of hydrophobic group(s) of greater than 0.6% by weight has (have) a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 100 000 to 2 000 000, better still from 200 000 to 1 500 000, and even more preferentially from 250 000 to 1 000 000.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight is (are) chosen from cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses having a content of hydrophobic groups of greater than 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrophobically modified cellulose.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) is (are) present in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is (are) different from the salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals or of ammonium, and of a C8-C30 fatty acid.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) does (do) not contain sulfonate groups.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is (are) chosen from acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactosiduronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, and alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group, these compounds being optionally oxyethylenated and preferably comprising from 1 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is (are) chosen from the (C6-C24)acylsarcosinates, the (C₆- C24)acylglutamates and the (C₆-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably from the (Ci2-C2o)acylglutamates and the (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of anionic surfactant(s) comprising one or more carboxylate group(s) and the amount of hydrophobically modified cellulose(s) ranges from 1 to 200, better still from 5 to 100 and even more preferentially from 5 to 50.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants having no carboxylate group, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic polymers.

16. Process for conditioning the hair or for washing/cleansing the body, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair or the body a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, and then in rinsing.

17. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 15, for conditioning the hair or washing/cleansing the body.