In Paris, where luxury hotels are a dime a dozen, there is a certain magic when a hotel surpasses your already high expectations. This feeling is intensified when the meticulous service isn't the only experience worth noting—and when a property seems to have gone above and beyond to create something otherworldly.
The Hotel de Crillon, a historic relic situated on the periphery of the Place de la Concorde, recently re-opened after a multi-hundred million dollar renovation, one that meant shutting its doors for almost four years. That might seem like an eternity for a business where suites start at $1,350 (and go up to 32,000 euro per night, approximately $37,655)–but it's a small wait time for an institution that originated in the 18th century.
The facade of Hotel de Crillon was commissioned in 1755 by King Louis XV, who turned to architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel to build two palace-like facades (which now serve as the hotel's exterior) on the Place de la Concorde. The building itself was completed in 1758 by architect Louis-François Trouard, who bought the land behind the facades at auction in hopes of building an impressive private mansion. So impressive, in fact, that Queen Marie Antoinette was said to have frequented the mansion, where she often took piano lessons.
In 1788, the Count of Crillon bought the home, and his descendants lived there until 1904. Come 1906, the grand mansion became a grand hotel under the management of the Société des Grands Magasins et des Hôtels du Louvre. The goal? Create the most luxurious hotel Paris (and the world) had ever seen, to cater to an elite and exclusive local and international clientele. The hotel officially opened in 1909, and immediately began to welcome the caliber of guests they had long aspired to host—like General John J. Pershing, Presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt and Woodrow Wilson. Prime Minister David Lloyd George of Britain met numerous foreign delegates at the Crillon, eventually drafting the covenant of the League of Nations in one of the hotel's salons. Politics aside, Charlie Chaplin, Queen Sofia of Spain, Orson Welles, Bette Davis, Sophia Loren and more were considered regulars of the hotel. In 1989, composer Leonard Bernstein penned: "What a pleasure being once again on my terrace over Place de la Concorde," in the hotel's guestbook.
But polish fades; and by the late 2000's, the au courant sheen of the 18th century hotel developed a patina. Rather than being a place where one goes to see and be seen (although devotees never strayed), the hotel had turned into the type of relic you cherish as an heirloom but only use infrequently on special occasions; the type of antique you look upon with sentimentality rather than celebration. After being purchased by a member of the Saudi royal family in 2010, it was announced (in 2012) that the historic Crillon would close its doors for a much needed facelift—which unlike any renovation of its kind, would feel more like an over-the-top overhaul.
While its competitors pride themselves on the ornate, traditional decor one expects of most luxury Paris properties, the Crillon emerged from its four-year reconstructive surgery as a modern swan with heirloom roots, steeped in tradition and original architecture while looking like she hadn't aged a day. Under the management of Rosewood Hotels, and with the feminine touch of architect Aline d’Amman, the hotel underwent what is rumored to be one of the most expensive updates in history. While we could regale you with renovation details, what impresses at the Crillon are the details. Here are all of the facts, notes, tips and insider secrets we gleaned from our recent trip to Paris' most elite address.
Karl Largerfeld Was Tapped to Design The Hotel's Most Expensive Suites, Les Grands Appartements...
Couturier Karl Lagerfeld is a renowned fashion designer, photographer and, unbeknownst to many, an 18th-century interiors and architecture expert. In fact, after d'Amman commissioned the unlikely choice to redesign the hotel's Grand Appartements and their adjacent petite suite, she learned that Lagerfeld was the proud owner of the first paper model of the facade of the Crillon, made by Ange-Jacques Gabriel.
Every single detail of these suites was Karl-approved. In fact, upon our arrival to the suite, we were told that even the flowers—all white roses—are always presented with their leaves removed. Apparently, Karl doesn't care for greenery. Lagerfeld tapped into his knowledge of the era the hotel was first designed, mixing historical elements with his own signature aesthetic: moldings, statues and more, all done in the most serene shade of soft gray. It took nine layers of paint on the wall and custom combs to achieve the proper texture he envisioned, and he hand selected each crystal for the dining room chandelier.
Sleeping in Les Grand Appartements is far more chic than anywhere else you've deigned to rest your head. In the larger of the two apartments, a canopy bed is constructed based on the only remaining scrap of fabric found from Louis XVI's time. The silk was previously used at the Crillon, and Karl had a fabric mill replicate the weave and the hand-dying process for those who opt to pay the suite's hefty price tag.
Karl, as one would expect, was obsessed with the proportions of each piece of furniture, and how visitors would interact with each piece. He commissioned the white couch in the living room of the suite to ensure the perfect curvature for a woman's frame (the height of the back of the sofa offers support for ideal posture and elegance), ensuring her head and shoulders fall in just the right place. Should she be wearing a long gown, the chaise is made so it falls perfectly. But there aren't only women in Karl's world—this custom seating works wonders for gentlemen as well. Sit on these perfectly designed settees as you look upon the art in the space—most of the photographs were taken by Karl himself at Versailles, and printed on a gold leaf-flecked canvas for a lustrous affect.
Noting Versailles as the pinnacle of 18th-century inspiration, Lagerfeld included some of the famous palace's details into his suites, like original sinks from Versailles in the powder room, and secret doors between key rooms of the suites. Lagerfeld calls these hideaways "escapes from circumstances," echoing the history of kings, queens and VIP's looking to escape any and all manner of inconveniences. Unlike in the past, where these were discreet doors, Largerfeld's have more of a wow-effect. Press a button and a sophisticated, mirrored, stainless steel bookshelf opens up into a hidden Couture closet.
Lagerfeld Designed a Petite Suite...Named After His Famous Cat, Choupette.
Karl added a smaller, single bedroom adjacent to his two grand apartments, in ode to Choupette, his cat. The carpet in the suite is designed with bold cat scratches etched into it, and the room takes on a bolder, black and white color palette in contrast to the soft dove tones of the larger two suites.
The Bathroom is Made from Three Blocks of Carrera Marble.
You read that correctly. The Arabescato Fantistico quarry in Carrera, Italy had been closed for 30 years when the hotel went under renovation—but Lagerfeld insisted the design team find the few remaining blocks left in the world to complete the bathroom in the larger suite. The tub alone is made of one full block of marble, weighing in at two tons. It is so heavy, in fact, that the ceilings and floors of the suite were reinforced before the piece was loaded in, to protect the historic salons that sit below the suite.
Marie Antoinette Still Reigns Supreme–and Has Her Own Suite and Salon.
In homage to the queen whose piano lessons were once heard throughout the hotel, the Marie Antoinette suite and salon are by far the most feminine and ladylike rooms in the renovation. Designed by an all-female team of designers and artists to reflect the queen's free spirit and her love of ladylike decadence, the details in the room are all about extravagance with a modern twist. In the bedroom, the desk drawers are lined with pearls and crystals, because Marie Antoinette's drawers were known to never be empty.
The suite's bathroom has rose gold faucets, and the marble used in the bathroom was commissioned from the same quarry that provided the marble for Marie Antoinette's favorite finishes in Versailles. Real gold leaf-finishes adorn much of the space, and the suite's dressing room is designed with glass doors to display shoes, hats and gowns as well as drawers designed with special storage compartments for gloves, sunglasses and scarves–as well as shelving that opens up to stage handbags. The suite and salon have custom china, tables and curtains designed especially as a homage to the history of Marie Antoinette, while original works that existed in the Crillon prior to the renovation, like the tapestry in the salon and the golden sconces in the bedroom, still have prime real estate in the space.
There Are Many More Notable Suites Other Than Karl's and Marie's...
Leonard Bernstein has a suite named for him on the top floor, with a wrap-around terrace that offers panoramic views of Paris. The Duc de Crillon suite is named for the owner of the hotel prior to it becoming a hotel, and features some of the most traditional decor onsite. Meanwhile, three suites-cum-artist residences are luxuriously designed to mimic the lofts writers, painters, composers and more would seek out upon arrival to Paris in the 19th and 20th centuries to do their best work.
The Hotel Raised its Ceilings by Three Feet–and Dug Two Stories Underground To Create the Spa's Pool.
To open up the entryway, d'Amman raised the ceilings by three feet, to give the lobby more of an open-air feel. The pool, however, was one of the key focuses of the renovation, given that the Crillon dug two stories underground to create it. While it's technically below ground, the Peter Lane gold-tiled pool's 'skylight' is based in one of the hotel's courtyards, giving it an outdoor feel and illuminating the courtyard by night.
When You Stay Here, You Have Your Own Butler. Every Guest Does.
At the Crillon, there is no formal front desk. Guests are escorted right to their rooms, where their informal check-in is conducted by their butler. Each guest has their own butler, rather than one assigned to a suite of many guests; and in the lobby, an in-depth concierge program takes the place of a formal desk where guests usually end up waiting in line for something as simple as a dinner reservation. In this formal-meets-informal concierge process and butler program, guests are encouraged to enjoy as much time as they need in the plethora of pocket rooms designed for their enjoyment in the lobby—which include a boudoir for cigar smoking, a Cognac room and two courtyards.
There Are 90+ Staff Ensembles in Rotation at the Hotel.
Yes...over 90. At the Crillon, the staff's clothes are dubbed "wardrobes"—not uniforms. Designer Hugo Matha, better known for his work in accessories, dabbled in clothing for the first time for the Crillon, designing everything from bow-necked blouses to sleek midi-skirt dresses and even men's slippers for a dapper touch. While people-watching is one of the many indulgent past times guests can partake in at the hotel, between fellow guests and perfectly decked staff, the hotel promises to be a veritable fashion show, particularly around Paris Fashion Week and Haute Couture.
The Dining Experiences Here Are Like No Other
Looking for a fine dining experience that has been said to bring even the toughest French food critics to tears? L'Ecrin, which welcomes an intimate 28-diner guest list per evening, is helmed by Chef Christopher Hache, whose previous dining experience at the hotel earned him a Michelin star (and it is said that this one likely will, too). Hache spent two of his four years off during the hotel's renovation on sabbatical, exploring flavors, ingredients, techniques and more with notable chefs in Asia and throughout North and South America. His whimsical takes on traditional French cuisine are on display here, served for dinner in a coursed tasting menu.
Brasserie d'Aumont is the hotel's more laid-back (if such an informality exists at this level of sophistication) eatery, situated in the heart of the hotel. Guests are invited to enjoy any meal—and even a late night snack–here, or in one of the hotel's al fresco courtyards. Here, guests can order from the Crudo Bar, a special corner dedicated to fresh seafood, or sample Chef Justin Schmitt's beef—he cooks half of an entire cow each week, respectfully using each part of the animal and highlighting its flavors in dishes across the menu.
The Jardin d'Hiver is a jewel-box type lounge, offering coffees and teas, an all-day menu and pastries from Chef Jérôme Chaucesse, who offers a hot chocolate that rivals its neighbor, Cafe Angelina, for the best in Paris. This old-style chocolat chaud is served in a 17th-century inspired pot with a wooden shaft and frother, the way Marie Antoinette was said to have enjoyed hers (most likely with a selection from a decadent display of cakes).
Bar Les Ambassadeurs is all about caviar, champagne and cocktails. With a registered landmark ceiling and nightly live music, this is the ideal place to sip from the largest champagne selection in Paris, or enjoy a perfectly crafted cocktail. The hotel's caviar service can also be enjoyed at any of the other dining experiences throughout the hotel—as can their cognac program, which boasts 23 different varieties.
The hotel's intimate, subterranean La Cave features 40,000 bottles of fine and rare wines, which can be enjoyed throughout the hotels dining rooms. Seating only 12 sippers, this is for the ultimate oenophile, seeking a sommelier experience like no other with unique food pairings. A private cigar lounge, L'Etincelle, greets dapper dandies looking for a place to sip and smoke.
France's First Female Barber Is at the Helm of the In-House Grooming Shop.
Sarah Daniel Hamizi, founder of La Barbière de Paris, is France's first female barber and she sits at the helm of the men's grooming shop onsite, offering beard trims and straight-razor shaves. The women's salon, The Hair Salon By David Lucas, offers cuts, color and styling for the hotel's female guests.
You Can Sit in the Seats of a Vintage Car Not Once—But Twice.
The seats in Hamizi's barber shop were originally from a 1960s Aston Martin. But, if you don't have time to take a seat in one of those for a shave, try taking a spin in the refurbished 1973 Citroen DS, which doubles as the hotel's car.
The Crillon By the Numbers...
- The marble bathtub in Karl Lagerfeld's Les Grands Appartements comes in at 2 tons.
- More than 5,000 people were behind the design, construction,conception and artistic touches of the renovation.
- 213 varieties of Champagne are available at Bar Les Ambassadeurs.
- The Peter Lane-designed pool is adorned with 33,000 mosaic tiles composed of 24ct gold leaf, cut from two slices of molten glass. While some have a hammer-blow surface, others are smooth, to give the pool the look and feel of a fish's scales.
- Les Grands Appartments, which can be booked individually for between 15,000 and 18,000 euros per night (approximately $17,700 and $21,250 USD), can be privatized as one large suite (including Choupette) for 32,000 euro (roughly $37,750 USD).
- In the women's hair salon, Haye Couture artisan Eric Charles-Donatien spent 350 hours hand-cutting, gilt-tipping and affixing metal and real feathers for the salon's VIP alcove, which looks like a Madame Pompadour jewel box covered in peacock and black feathers.
- 23 types of cognac are on pour at L'Etincelle; and about 40,000 bottles of wine are stored in La Cave.
- The most expensive suite is the full privatization of the second-floor suites—which includes the Suite Marie Antoinette, the Les Aigles Ballroom, the Batailles Ballroom, the Suite Duc de Crillon and the Suite Jardin, for a total of 47,000 euros (about $55,500 USD).
- The Crillon was once comprised of 147 rooms—but now the hotel has 124 rooms available–including 78 guest rooms, 36 suites and 10 signature suites.
- Over 35 types of plants are featured in the Louis Benech-designed courtyards, Cour D'Honneur and Cour Gabriel.
- The Bernstein Suite on its own can be booked for 20,000 euros ($23,600 USD) per night as a one-bedroom suite with a wrap-around terrace. Guests can connect to the adjacent Louis XV Suite for a second bedroom for 29,000 euros ($34,200 USD) per night.
- 90+ staff outfits serve as the Crillon team wardrobe for the hotel's 380 associates.
- How much does it cost to live like Marie Antoinette? The suite and salon named after the hotel's most famous guest, which faces Place de la Concorde, comes in at 16,000 euros ($18,900 USD) nightly.
Carrie Goldberg is HarpersBAZAAR.com’s Weddings & Travel Director. She oversees the site’s BAZAAR Bride channel, travel & dining content, and styles fashion and bridal editorials for BAZAAR.com. When she’s not traveling, she spends her free time in her hometown–New York City–where there is no shortage of new places to shop, eat, drink, see and explore.
