Stephanie Seymour, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
It was the essence of the 1980s – the fashion birth of the supermodels. I was there front-row, watching the arrival of these Amazonian power women, standing tall and strong – especially Linda Evangelista with her proud head thrown back and her unstoppable, firm but fleshy legs.
Yvette, Shalom Harlow, Stephanie Seymour, Kate Moss, Nick Moss, Aya Thorgren, and Kristen McMenamy, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
And in 1992, Richard Avedon pulled all these models together for a Gianni Versace campaign. "I can remember that shoot like it was yesterday," said Naomi Campbell. Linda teamed up with Stephanie Seymour – another figure in this orgy of gorgeousness – along with Naomi with her dark, gleaming snake of a body, the sweet-faced Christy Turlington, and the vigorous Shalom Harlow – with cute little Kate Moss trying to catch up with her soul sisters.
Linda Evangelista, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
As I approached the outer wall of the Gagosian Gallery stand at this year’s Paris Photo art fair, and I saw Avedon's “supes" framed in the front line, I drew a sharp intake of breath. The reflection of the Grand Palais glass dome trellis on to the images gave even more of an "iron lady" effect.
Christy Turlington, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
What a hard-edged, sexually provocative frolic! Linda Evangelista crawling in a black dress over Seymour's wide-spread legs in vividly-patterned palazzo pyjamas. Or Naomi mounting the back of a young Kristen McMenamy, both in bold, bright stripes.
Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour, and Christy Turlington, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
In another image, all the models are in body-conscious jet-black dresses, with Kristen's broad back turned toward the camera.
Kate Moss and Aya Thorgren, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November 1992
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
This fashion moment was the epitome of the power-woman era – a celebration of androgyny and feminist energy before grunge came in. Five years later, Gianni himself was gone.
Naomi Campbell, Kristen McMenamy, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour, and Christy Turlington, Versace spring/summer 1993 campaign, New York, November
Credit © 2014 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Courtesy Gagosian Gallery.
The Gagosian had many splendid images, powerful in black and white. But these wild women in their strong colours and violent patterns caught a fashion moment that is both of its time and timeless.
The reflection of the Grand Palais glass dome trellis on to Avedon’s photograph of Linda Evangelista for Versace, at Paris Photo
Credit Suzy Menkes
Or to put that more gracefully, in Avedon's own words: "If you do what I've done, which is to record the beauty of your time, that doesn't go out of fashion."
