Collioure: the cut-price Côte d’Azur

Why go?

The 20-mile Côte Vermeille is the last stretch of the Rousillon coast before the Spanish border. Here, in the bottom right-hand corner of France, the Pyrenees tail off dramatically into the sea, and the rugged hillsides behind are covered with steeply angled vineyards.

It is a gorgeous and much overlooked (at least by the British) part of the French south. Now is a lovely time to visit: the summer visitors have gone and the warmth lingers on. Today’s forecast was for unbroken sunshine and a temperature of 24C.

Of the four little salmon-pink towns along the Vermillion Coast, the indisputable star is Collioure, a sensationally picturesque ensemble of old town, beaches, waterfront castle and church, all set around a compact bay. The resort’s good looks have attracted artists since the early 1900s, when Matisse and Derain started painting here, and the streets are full of galleries.

Aesthetically, Collioure can rival anywhere on the Côte d’Azur, but it is markedly cheaper and less chichi. The Cote Vermeille’s weakness is its beaches, which are mostly shingly or pebbly. Come instead to potter, to taste wine and to visit markets, laden with autumn nuts and fruits – the region’s best takes place on Saturday mornings at Céret, a half-hour drive inland.

Travel by...

Plane to Perpignan – with Bmibaby (0871 224 0224, www.bmibaby.com) from Manchester; Flybe (0871 700 2000, www.flybe.com) from Southampton; or Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com) from Birmingham and Stansted. It’s a 30-minute drive from Perpignan airport to Collioure. Three days’ car hire from the airport booked through Holiday Autos (0870 400 0010, www.holidayautos.co.uk), with full insurance, costs from £90.

Collioure has a railway station, and can be reached from London by train in less than 10 hours. Book through Rail Europe (0844 848 4070, www.raileurope.co.uk), from £160 return.

Stay at the...

Casa Pairal (0033 4 68 82 05 81, www.hotel-casa-pairal.com; £94), an atmospheric hotel with a pool, a magnolia-shaded terrace and individual, old-fashioned bedrooms. It’s in the centre of town but very tranquil.

Next door, and under the same ownership, Le Mans des Citronniers (0033 4 68 82 04 82, www.hotel-mas-des-citronniers.com; £68) is a good, cheaper alternative. Try and get one of the annexe rooms, which are small but quiet and have a terrace or balcony.

If you want to push the boat out, consider the Relais des Trois Mas (0033 4 68 82 05 07, www.relaisdestroismas.com; from £149), with stunning views of Collioure. Attractive bedrooms are set into the rocks above a small beach. All rates are for the cheapest double room in October, including breakfast.

Spend the morning...

Exploring Collioure. Start at Notre-Dames-des-Anges church, then follow the waterfront under the walls of the castle to Plage de Port d’Avall (the resort’s best beach). Then take the D86 from Collioure, a white road that winds spectacularly through precipitous vineyards in the mountainous terrain behind the coast. It will eventually bring you to Banyuls-Sur-Mer with its pine- and palm-lined prom behind an arc of pebbly beach.

Lunch in...

Banyuls-Sur-Mer. The jolly, modest restaurants spilling over the main square offer good, inexpensive lunches – the plat du jour and a glass of wine at Le Pressoir costs £8. You can also take an informative wine tour of the vast Cellier des Templiers, which ends with generous free tastings. See www.banyuls.com for details.

Stroll along...

The coast from Cap Bear, a headland near the down-to-earth fishing port of Port-Vendres. It’s a good place to pick up the coastal path (look for the yellow stripes of paint), which heads south towards Banyuls-Sur-Mer along gorse-covered cliffs above tiny coves.

Buy...

A pot of local anchovies, preserved in oil, vinegar or salt, from venerable anchovy factory Anchois Roque (17, route d’Argelès).

Have dinner at...

Casa Leon (rue Rière, 0033 4 68 82 10 74). This intimate Catalan bistro serves perfect, simply grilled fish, and is a good place to sample local anchovies and wines; dinner menus from £21. Or try Le 5ème Péché

(18, rue de la Fraternité, 0033 4 68 98 09 76) for highly regarded Japanese-French fusion dishes; dinner menus from £28.

Stay up late...

With a glass of the sweet Banyuls wine at one of the terraced cafés behind pretty Plage Boramar. Locals drink it as an aperitif or with dessert, but it’s equally good as an after-dinner tipple. Or head to the Hotel Les Templiers on quai de l’Amirauté.

Recover by...

Taking some air: walk up the steep path through olive groves behind the (rather dull) modern art museum to a windmill, then on past vineyards to Fort St-Elme. Crowning a hilltop overlooking the resort, this little fort occupies a glorious position. It’s closed at this time of year, but there isn’t much to see inside – you come for the views.

At all costs avoid...

Argelès-Plage, just north of Collioure – a big, charmless, mass-market campers’ resort.